bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Dec 10, 2012 9:24:53 GMT
I replaced my old style clutch with a cosa one bought from sip, (soaked the plates over night) but the clutched dragged badly, on inspection one of the steel plates was warped, a new plate solved the dragging. im sure iv'e read elsewhere the basket cutouts should be 21mm deep
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Dec 6, 2012 8:36:01 GMT
the sip pressure plate in theory should work better than the brass one, but ive seen a video on youtube where the bearing had broken up and ended up in the gearbox. im with nic on the old 7 spring clutch, with standard springs they are soft enough to pull in, and they don't cost a fortune, and they work. the extra springs you have will be causing greater friction on the brass pressure plate, causing the blackness. I always buy piaggio plates but newfren and surflex are good as well.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Dec 2, 2012 11:27:24 GMT
the flywheel looks normal to me. No spark will probably be your cdi box or pick up on the stator.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Nov 5, 2012 9:24:26 GMT
your chances of finding the original holes are slim to none by measurement, if double sided tape is not an option, just mark and drill new holes. I think it will save a lot of hassle.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Oct 2, 2012 7:10:53 GMT
yes lads, it was either try to bond it or bin the frame, ill keep checking it once the build is finnished, as like nik say,s it,s not the best. cheers again
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Sept 29, 2012 9:17:06 GMT
not the cup and bearing nik, the cup in frame was not a tight fit. (lower)
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Sept 27, 2012 9:28:23 GMT
new bearing cup was still loose in frame, so used a strong resin to hold it in place and this seems to have worked. cheers
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Sept 22, 2012 9:55:22 GMT
nik, i was fitting forks on a mates p2, but couldn't get rid of play in the forks, discovered the lower cup was moving in the frame. (never seen that before). hopeing the wear was on the cup, because if its the frame i don't know what to do to sort it. anyway have ordered new bearing cup and fingers crossed.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Sept 19, 2012 18:56:09 GMT
as above, the bit thats pressed in the frame. Can anyone advise how to fit this part, any tip's will be appreciated. cheers
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Sept 13, 2012 18:14:41 GMT
no head gasket supplied as not required .
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Sept 11, 2012 13:26:59 GMT
ok Bryno, thats the next job, will check for the step and flatness of surfaces. cheers
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Sept 11, 2012 8:01:40 GMT
No sealant was used, and all surfaces were clean iincluding channel, do you recomend trying sealant? ive got some blue hylomar and never thought of using it.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Sept 7, 2012 9:07:31 GMT
checked the pipe and thats ok, the gasket does have the autolube hole, so i guess either the carb box or lump must have an un flat surface, will try to get a loan of a carb bottom to see if that cures it.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Sept 3, 2012 8:38:32 GMT
mate had 2 st leaking down the back of his engine (px200e). it was coming from between the carb box and lump, so fitted new genuine piaggio gaskets, made sure everything was tight, but the problem persists. any ideas how to fix this would be appreciated.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Sept 3, 2012 8:37:50 GMT
mate had 2 st leaking down the back of his engine (px200e). it was coming from between the carb box and lump, so fitted new genuine piaggio gaskets, made sure everything was tight, but the problem persists. any ideas how to fix this would be appreciated.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Aug 23, 2012 10:56:07 GMT
no, i mean the nut in the centre of picture 7. ( primary drive shaft securing nut) if its comeing out the breather, your main seal has probably blown. if it is comeing from the nut i described, try tightening up., if its not that you may have a crack in the caseing beside the nut.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Aug 22, 2012 20:20:44 GMT
looks like the primary drive nut (bottom right of clutch cover ) needs tightened, bend the tab washer out, then tighten the nut, then tap tab washer back, what is the engine from, as looks like indian parts, clutch arm/ spring cups. anyway hope that helps.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Aug 18, 2012 19:29:09 GMT
steve, remove the gear oil filler screw and top up with fresh oil,if it takes quite a bit chances are when you start your scoot smoke will betlch out the exhaust indicating a knackered main seal. ( so bloody common these days) hoprfully just a dirty carb problem though.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Jul 28, 2012 8:57:31 GMT
the early crusiforms had steps, and a spacer washer, did you fit crusiform the same way as the old one and replace the spacer?
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Jul 23, 2012 19:50:04 GMT
what model of vespa do you have? is it kitted? if that happened to me id want to take the barrel off to check for damage, id check the colour of the plug, autolube function, and main bearing oil seal.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Jul 12, 2012 8:36:16 GMT
if you've fitted a new clutch cover o ring, that may cause the cover to sit proud of the caseing until tightened. I smear some grease round the o ring to ease fitting the cover.hth
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Jul 11, 2012 9:00:17 GMT
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Jul 10, 2012 9:36:44 GMT
had a hassle removing the clutch nut retaining basket/washer from my mk 1 p2, so have thought about refitting it with a nord lock washer i got from beedspeed, anyone used these retaining washers. are they any good??
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Jul 10, 2012 9:20:30 GMT
had this recently on my mk1 p2, just worn carb body causing slide to stick, had a spare carb body so fitted old slide and was sorted. ive read somewhere recently that over/uneven tighting of the carb can distort it causing the sticking slide problem.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Jul 6, 2012 9:59:26 GMT
I think indian (lml) 150 top end's have head gaskets, does yours have one fitted? what colour is your plug as it could be an air leak, Id also try your px125 main jet set up as it also sounds like your getting to much fuel through. process of elimination, the jet's/ top end/ or exhaust.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Jul 3, 2012 9:07:29 GMT
make sure your tyre pressures are correct, check wheel nuts are tight, check your shock is not leaking, feel for play in the wheel and steering bearings. hth
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Jun 29, 2012 14:21:52 GMT
any decent company that do vinal graphics for vans etc should be able to do that in the colour you want.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Jun 26, 2012 9:18:30 GMT
the early px 125 s had points, might be worth checking the gap and contacts for wear/ dirt.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Jun 24, 2012 8:31:26 GMT
as nik says, id try to get it first with a magnet, also when i remove/ refit my clutch i have the slot on the crank facing upwards, i also poke a bit of rag or poly bag under the clutch to catch the woodruff key if it does fall out, hth
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Jun 20, 2012 13:41:55 GMT
cheers Nik, did the job today 17mm socket was fine for 16mm spindle bearings.
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