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Post by vespanewbie on Aug 22, 2012 14:21:15 GMT
Hi there, Recently I've changed the clutch cover seals and brass plunger on my vespa, as well as giving it all a much needed clean engine side. I then started her up an noticed a leak again, from the same sort of area, a black residue. the leak look as if come from a brass looking circle close to the clutch cover? any ideas guys as to what my leak problem maybe please? and how to rectify? I could give it to the local scooter guy but i'm really keen to learn how to fix problems myself and get this scooter on the road and safe Please click on this link below to see pics (I did put some on before but they were too small to view - thanks again) fingers crossed someone can help. s1059.photobucket.com/albums/t437/vespanewbie/as always any help greatly appreciated! thanks in advance
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Aug 22, 2012 20:20:44 GMT
looks like the primary drive nut (bottom right of clutch cover ) needs tightened, bend the tab washer out, then tighten the nut, then tap tab washer back, what is the engine from, as looks like indian parts, clutch arm/ spring cups. anyway hope that helps.
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Post by vespanewbie on Aug 22, 2012 21:31:06 GMT
LML engine. do you mean the breather?? thanks
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Aug 23, 2012 10:56:07 GMT
no, i mean the nut in the centre of picture 7. ( primary drive shaft securing nut) if its comeing out the breather, your main seal has probably blown. if it is comeing from the nut i described, try tightening up., if its not that you may have a crack in the caseing beside the nut.
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Post by vespanewbie on Aug 23, 2012 19:23:09 GMT
Ah, okay thanks I'll look at tightening up. however I've thinking it could well be a crack in the casing. would this be an easy fix?
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Post by sbwnik on Aug 26, 2012 23:12:28 GMT
You can fix that with something like JB Weld or Chemical Metal, but it's a pig to use when you don't know the stuff. Everything needs to be spotless. I hate the damn stuff. It's possible to get it welded, but you'd need to be telling the welder a lot of detail and stressing that the area cannot get distorted under any circumstance.
Sorry to scare you there, but it's very rare for an engine to crack, so go for the seal first.
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