bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
|
Post by bsr65 on Sept 19, 2012 18:56:09 GMT
as above, the bit thats pressed in the frame. Can anyone advise how to fit this part, any tip's will be appreciated. cheers
|
|
|
|
Post by sbwnik on Sept 19, 2012 19:54:08 GMT
Broom handle down the stem, bang it with a hammer.
Make sure you clean up the seat before replacing.
|
|
bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
|
Post by bsr65 on Sept 22, 2012 9:55:22 GMT
nik, i was fitting forks on a mates p2, but couldn't get rid of play in the forks, discovered the lower cup was moving in the frame. (never seen that before). hopeing the wear was on the cup, because if its the frame i don't know what to do to sort it. anyway have ordered new bearing cup and fingers crossed.
|
|
|
|
Post by sbwnik on Sept 22, 2012 21:22:30 GMT
Sounds like the cup, just a 'click' of play? Shagged bearings eating into the cup can do that.
BTW I meant mallet, not hammer. Essentially the same way as you remove the seat. Make sure you get it in square.
|
|
bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
|
Post by bsr65 on Sept 27, 2012 9:28:23 GMT
new bearing cup was still loose in frame, so used a strong resin to hold it in place and this seems to have worked. cheers
|
|
|
|
Post by sbwnik on Sept 28, 2012 23:32:38 GMT
If it was loose, then it wasn't in far enough. There shouldn't be any space between cup and bearing.
|
|
bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
|
Post by bsr65 on Sept 29, 2012 9:17:06 GMT
not the cup and bearing nik, the cup in frame was not a tight fit. (lower)
|
|
|
|
Post by sbwnik on Sept 29, 2012 9:20:10 GMT
Sorry, I meant race, not bearing! The race should be a tight fit (I'm guessing that's what you mean by the cup?)
|
|
|
|
Post by kru251 on Sept 30, 2012 8:55:46 GMT
The cup should as you say be a interference/driven fit into the frame. Not sure on Vespas as never had to change one, but Lammies are hardened in that frame area to resist the loose potential. I suppose if all aligned correctly then Araldited/JB Weld/Liquid Steel or whatever is your bonding method of choice to hold it in place it will "do a trip". Not good for the next time it needs replacing but.................  |
|
|
|
Post by sbwnik on Sept 30, 2012 10:09:21 GMT
Never use anything like that on an interference fit, the potential is there to put it half a degree out of alignment.
Take it out, clean it up, do it properly. Some things you can bodge, but anything crucial to safety - steering, brakes, wheels - you need to get right.
|
|
|
|
Post by kru251 on Sept 30, 2012 17:35:54 GMT
I think you'll find Nik that BSR65 has already done something that from how I read it!  |
|
bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
|
Post by bsr65 on Oct 2, 2012 7:10:53 GMT
yes lads, it was either try to bond it or bin the frame, ill keep checking it once the build is finnished, as like nik say,s it,s not the best. cheers again
|
|
|
|
Post by joey on Oct 11, 2012 0:09:04 GMT
Blowtorch fork tube, freeze race, tap into place........... if you don't get a solid interference fit then fork tube is f**ked as Nik has already said.
Some things you can bodge and get away with, having to add a resin to a steering bearing to get it to fit is not one of them.
Suck it up and pay an engineer to sort it properly.
|
|
