bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Jun 16, 2012 10:25:26 GMT
when it comes time to change your tyre, and you have sealent in your tube, does the sealent plug the valve when releasing the air? if it does that would'nt be to handy.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Jun 11, 2012 15:34:54 GMT
Lad from A 92s having blow out on way to Kelso. sip tubeless rims and schwallbe tyre's. Its thought to be caused by an underinflated tyre.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Jun 8, 2012 7:36:44 GMT
yes but you have to remove at least 3 barrel studs, think you leave the top left one on.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Jun 6, 2012 13:35:13 GMT
noticed a fair bit of play on the front hub backplate on my mk 1 p200e, can anyone advise if its ok to fit the new bearings using sockets as haynes manual say,s you need a double dia... drift. I cant find any dealers who sell these.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on May 23, 2012 14:22:16 GMT
Im being a numpty, obviously just trace the indicator back to the connector block.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on May 23, 2012 14:18:04 GMT
if the carb float needle was leaking would that allow fuel into the gear box past a good oilseal? the reason i ask is that ive been asked to look at a mates scoot that is loosing fuel with no obvious leak.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on May 23, 2012 14:05:57 GMT
when setting the cables myself, i go with the lines under the handle bars, and then put a bit of masking tape on the top to stop it rotating when you've got a mate pulling the cable with pliers. and the dot,s are offset, again never had one go past fourth to find a false nutreul
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on May 23, 2012 8:24:43 GMT
cheers nic, aye the indian one's look micky mouse. the connection from the block to the bulb you don't know what colour wire to take it from do you, or just trial and error.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on May 22, 2012 11:36:16 GMT
cheers for replys lads, swopped speedo unit with a mates one and hey presto it works, so will stump up for a new one, you'd think you would be able to by the pcb strip to replace but i cant find any dealers that do. Ill keep that bodge in mind nic, but dont fancy drilling hole's in this scoots headset.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on May 20, 2012 19:22:10 GMT
can anyone advise if the indicator flashing on the speedo, is required for MOT, I have swopped the bulb and visually checked the copper strips for a break, but looks ok, also any ideas where the fault may lie.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Apr 27, 2012 15:40:33 GMT
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Apr 27, 2012 15:34:24 GMT
the green LML looks like the 4 st version, a mate had a lml 2 st in the light blue shown, a great reliable workhorse but with some wireing issues as said previously.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Apr 16, 2012 12:33:57 GMT
10 / 40 will be fine, been using castrol gtx in my p2ooe for 20 odd years, sae 30 is not a gear oil but a basic motor oil. (recomended by piaggio) which actualy changes to sae 20 when hot. Again fine, sae 80 is a hypoid gear oil, again will be fine. when picking one go for a mineral oil without additives, the scooter shops sell putoline and rock oil, but like nic said sae 30 lawnmower / chainsaw oil is the correct grade for a vespa.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Apr 14, 2012 13:33:47 GMT
Beedspeed do wiring looms for old style vespas with px / LML engines fitted, that may be the way to go.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Apr 2, 2012 10:49:13 GMT
Mates p200 elec start fires up when turning ignition key on, no clutch in or pressing start button, he,s had to disconnect the battery in the mean time, any input would be appreciated.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Mar 23, 2012 13:12:16 GMT
mates got one, decent performance but red paint burnt off the manifold in 5 mins, and like coco say;s you have to remove it to change the back wheel, not exactly handy at night on the hard shoulder.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Mar 18, 2012 19:27:06 GMT
thats the strange thing, on first start up the bike jumps forward and stalls then no creeping, plates were one's i had bought from old taffspeed shop so should be decent quality. Interesting point on the crank, to be looked at more closely. cheers
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Mar 16, 2012 9:27:39 GMT
cheers for replys guys, when i got this bike it had been sitting in a shed for years, i got it home then realised the clutch oil seal was nacked, I stripped down and replaced the crank seals and every thing looked good, but the problem which felt like the clutch persisted. ive replaced all clutch parts apart from the gear, cover and spacer/autolube drive. Ive also fitted a sip spacer, all this improved things slightly and ive just driven it as apart from the problem it is reliable but a pain to drive, any way ive put a p200 lump in an the 125 is sitting on my garage floor. im thinking if there is no give in the cush drive would that cause the clutch lever to go slack with the throttle open. Rudi ive seen motors with a nacked cush drive in the past and my symptoms are differant, ill get round to stripping the motor and ill let you know if i find anything. cheers again
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Mar 14, 2012 16:24:50 GMT
looking for advice on a clutch / cushdrive fault on my px125 disc, symptoms are when first starting bike then putting in first it jumps forward and stalls, after that ok ,no drag at lights etc. gear change is difficult, ive been through clutch and all seems well, another symptom is when the bike is being driven is the clutch lever slackens when throttle is open and tightens when throttle is closed. with the clutch removed the cush drive plates are not flush with the the gear(in the space between the rivots) im thinking maybe the cush drive is goosed, what ever is causing the lever to slacken is the problem but what is causing it. ANYONE ?
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Mar 9, 2012 19:25:45 GMT
colin what colour is the two stroke oil your using, it sounds from the area its coming from that its 2 st, like you say damaged gasket or blocked channel under carb bottom. did you replace rubber o ring on clutch cover, clutch arm? if your gear oil is not leaking from main case gasket id look at that if its not the breather.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Mar 8, 2012 12:15:00 GMT
You say your plug is black, is it sooty or oily black. check how many turns the carb air mixture screw goes in then return screw to original position then turn 1/4 to1/2 turn out, repeat procedure to your plug is tan/ brown colour. my p200e is set at 2, 1/2 turns out. Dont know if this would cause your bike to sieze but worth checking.
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Feb 28, 2012 12:18:10 GMT
agree with nic, replaced s1,s on my p2. New ones made in the far east, the rubber feels harder..... not good in the wet, and the inside diameter is 5mm smaller than the italian made ones, a night mare to fit rims. should have went for shawllbes or conti;s
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Feb 24, 2012 9:57:51 GMT
nearly imposible to avoid getting a small air bubble when refitting pipe, put a capfull in tank (2 st) and on first start up, watch the air bubble disapear, then just check 2 st level drops as you drive. hope that helps
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Feb 7, 2012 9:41:13 GMT
mate, your wheel bearings are not in the hub as a px is, their located in the hub backplate as a rally, 150 super etc. Grab the front wheel top and bottom and lift up and down to feel for excessive play, if there is the wheel bearings are shot and that will be the problem. Also do same with your forks to check the steering bearings. You say the wheel is catching when spinning, can you see what its catching on?
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