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Post by super150 on Jun 23, 2012 10:44:30 GMT
Bought a tuning kit and thought I would put the clutch plates in today. The last plate to go on before you refit the circlip is smaller in circumference than the old one though. Therefore, it won't hold the clutch in.
Would it matter to use the old one to hold it all in?
I then dropped the clutch retaining key into the gearbox.......(sigh.)
So, now I have taken the whole engine out......which I might add I've never done before but probably should have done in the first place, as it would have been easier to work on...(sigh.)
So, I gave the engine abit of a shake, but nothing came out, then the bulb went in the lead light I was using....( Happy #*%#@*" days......sigh.) It was time to call it a day I thought.
Can't wait for tomorrow 😳
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Post by sbwnik on Jun 23, 2012 21:12:48 GMT
First things first - can you post pictures of the clutch and plates before you put it in the engine? As for the woodruff key, what you need is a magnet on a stick, I'm for ever doing exactly that, and always manage to fish the buggers out. Oh, and you didn't need to drop the engine, you could have taken the case side off without doing... Hope tomorrow is better  |
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Jun 24, 2012 8:31:26 GMT
as nik says, id try to get it first with a magnet, also when i remove/ refit my clutch i have the slot on the crank facing upwards, i also poke a bit of rag or poly bag under the clutch to catch the woodruff key if it does fall out, hth
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Post by super150 on Jun 24, 2012 8:47:40 GMT
Ok clutch pic attached. Got the woodruff key out by shaking the bloody thing. Rags will def be in place from now on! Had a better day today, even got piston, barrel & head on.....surely something has to go wrong by the end of the day  Attachments:
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Post by kru251 on Jun 24, 2012 9:20:29 GMT
Well I know where your coming from so just stay with it. It will get better!!! I had problems with clutch drag so modified the cork clutch plates by making the slightly lower 'slots/channels' in the cork completely clear with a hacksaw blade just to allow the oil to flow around better. The cork plates are only 'milled' out slightly to allow them to be stuck to the steel plates in a circle so once attached these cork slot/channels can go so you jusdt have raised cork sections above the steel plate. The reason I had my clutch apart in the first place was it was dragging right from when it got warm. No fun with clutch fully pulled in and still moving forward!!! So, had to give expansion room for the plates. Did mod as recommended by Allstyle Scooters of slightly increasing the slot depths. Careful use of file/Dremel. Worked an absolute treat and no issues now at all with clean shifts and a very smooth action clutch!!   |
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Post by super150 on Jun 24, 2012 9:31:55 GMT
Thanks for that kru251, but I'm afraid thats not the problem I have.
The problem I have is with the new clutch. The plates are smaller, as you can see, therefore the last friction plate that goes on that holds it all together is too small.
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Post by sbwnik on Jun 24, 2012 22:44:56 GMT
Looks to me that you have one cosa style clutch and one old style one?
So no, they're not mixable as far as I know.
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Post by kru251 on Jun 25, 2012 0:23:28 GMT
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Post by super150 on Jun 25, 2012 0:31:16 GMT
You reckon I should buy a whole new clutch or just larger clutch plates?
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Post by kru251 on Jun 25, 2012 22:21:20 GMT
How deep is your pocket?
I'd just get the correct cork plates etc for the Cosa clutch. The existing steels should be fine if not warped/bent.
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Post by sbwnik on Jun 25, 2012 22:27:34 GMT
On a tuned engine I'd always go with the Mk1 clutch. On a standard engine the Cosa clutch will surfice and it's a lot lighter on the hand.
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