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Post by partanen on Apr 24, 2014 7:33:31 GMT
Now I have suspension. Original spring with Carbone absorber feels good. Although original absorber looks alright it's very stiff. And it only absorbs one direction, outwards. Like very old absorbers do. Carbone absorber is softer and it absorbs both direction. And I also have ride height adjustment on the rear. I also put original shock to front. Now my front wheels is off the ground when scooter is on center stand. Easier to maintain this way I think.
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Post by partanen on Apr 22, 2014 15:04:34 GMT
Spring often tend to soften. My back is aching already. I'm not sure if I can wait. I'm pondering if I should try original spring with Carbone shock. Then again Carbone could be too hard for original spring, which is no good.
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Post by partanen on Apr 21, 2014 11:08:57 GMT
Thank henri. I went back to garage to see what I got. Original front shock seems to be quite alright for now. Rear shock is jammed. Spring cannot drag out the absorber. Then I noticed that Piaggio sells all the shock absorber parts separately for this model. I could use my existing spring, but original absorber is hard to find. Brand called "RMS" offers absorber, but how can I know if it works together with original spring. Edit: I do know how to use ride height adjustment. This one shows once again that it's not for adjusting spring stiffness.
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Post by partanen on Apr 21, 2014 9:32:56 GMT
I bought Carbone absorbers with ride height adjustments. I think they are a bit too stiff for me, even on lowest setting. And now I noticed that one for the front is 1cm longer than original is.
I'm about to order original absorbers as I some how trust Piaggio engineers when it comes riding comfort. At least my Gts is nice to ride, but can we even compare PX and Gts from that point of view?
Could you suggest any reasonably priced comfy shocks? Or should I order a new saddle or seat instead?
I have not ride a lot with working original shocks so I don't really know how original absorbers works.
Thanks in advance.
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Post by partanen on Apr 21, 2014 8:47:38 GMT
I have Sip Road 2.0. It's a bit louder than standard pipe. But I sure like how it performs at low and mid revs.
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Post by partanen on Apr 21, 2014 8:44:18 GMT
I also used a new cog gear for oil pump, as old one was ruined. And this just to be sure: www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/spacer+cosa+2+for+cosa+2_69821000 Cog gear was grinded against the clutch, causing drag. That's why I think that cog gear works as spring washer. There is no other locking method for the clutch nut as I see it. Over tightening will twist the cog gear too much. At first I thought that 40-45Nm must be wrong as it feels like not enough. Maybe I underestimated italians. The clutch has been there only 300km at the moment, but seems to work great. Just like it worked before I took it apart at the first time.
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Post by partanen on Apr 20, 2014 12:13:37 GMT
I had same problems when I over tightened the clutch nut. Correct torque is 40-45Nm. What was your setting?
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Post by partanen on Apr 15, 2014 7:00:34 GMT
Great job "sbwnik".
**********
henri: For led turn signals you need "electronic led flasher relay". The one which doesn't need resistance to work properly.
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Post by partanen on Apr 10, 2014 16:17:33 GMT
Why not GL-4 as Piaggio recommends? I admit I'm not specialist, but these cosa clutches have more plates. Maybe that's why these needs thinner oil than SAE 30 is. Ofcourse SAE 30 for older clutches.
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Post by partanen on Apr 9, 2014 8:20:00 GMT
Gear oil usually is contaminated by wet clutch residues, which is totally normal. Oil get dirty or dark so to speak. Then oil doesn't lubricate as it should. It's not good in prolonged use, but your scooter doesn't break immediately.
If you use it long enough with dirty oil, some of the residues may stay in gear box when you change the oils. In case that oil cannot hold and transfer all the residues. Then you could try to flush the gear box with new oil by changing the oils again after couple of days.
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Post by partanen on Apr 8, 2014 15:49:47 GMT
I've read somewhere that API GL-4 has been recommended oil last 3 decades. My italian manual says: SAE 80W, API GL-4. I chose Motorex Gear Oil and it works great (GL-4, SAE 10W/30 [75W/85]).
Well, first I over torqued the clutch nut and it propably caused some dragging problems. I bought new oil pump gear cog and torqued the nut to 40-45 Nm. No problems since.
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Post by partanen on Mar 28, 2014 8:35:24 GMT
200's stub is turned a bit outwards compared to smaller engines. At smaller engines the stub is downwards, if I'm right.
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Post by partanen on Mar 25, 2014 20:36:49 GMT
As a basic rule 5 to 10% bigger main jet would be good starting point. From 96 to 100 is in between that limits. I'd say you are on the right way.
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Post by partanen on Mar 25, 2014 8:16:47 GMT
I don't have owner's manual for PX. Owner's manual for GTS says: "Use a low pressure water jet in order to soften the dirt and mud deposited on painted surfaces. ..."
For the engine same as you told, plus "Keep nozzle at least 60cm away from the vehicle".
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Post by partanen on Mar 20, 2014 18:59:56 GMT
When I took off the front hub, vaseline was so hardened that it resist the hub come off. I had to remove the "vaseline" with a knife, after I removed the hub by force. I needed a new axle seal as well because it was ruined during the removing. I'll recommend Haynes book as well. But here is some sites to begin with: www.scooterhelp.comwww.vespamaintenance.comAnd ofcourse: vespa.proboards.com
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Post by partanen on Mar 20, 2014 16:19:29 GMT
Autoglym and Sonax are my favourite brands. Usually I choose a bottle which suit for my needs. PX might need some kind of cleaner wax.
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Post by partanen on Mar 19, 2014 9:34:06 GMT
How does shock absorbers look like? New ones aren't very expensive, but gives safety.
Maybe new tyres?
I suggest to check front wheel bearings. Take front hub off, clean and re-grease bearings to be sure.
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Post by partanen on Mar 19, 2014 9:27:27 GMT
Car shampoo and wax. washing approx 2-3 times per month. Waxing 2 times per year. Hardly ever power washer because Piaggio says no. I've noticed that steering bearings are not sealed.
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Post by partanen on Mar 16, 2014 6:22:27 GMT
Ok, I thought it didn't idle at all, because earlier you wrote: "...except it still stalls everytime."
Screwing the screws doesn't help when carburettor was not the reason for problems.
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Post by partanen on Mar 15, 2014 18:21:19 GMT
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Post by partanen on Mar 15, 2014 18:12:34 GMT
I believe your idle adjustment was working just as it should. But because reed valve leaked, engine just couldn't idle.
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Post by partanen on Mar 14, 2014 10:50:12 GMT
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Post by partanen on Mar 13, 2014 9:19:26 GMT
2 stroke it is then.
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Post by partanen on Mar 8, 2014 10:41:51 GMT
I bought these: They are meant for antenna holes.
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Post by partanen on Mar 8, 2014 10:24:22 GMT
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Post by partanen on Mar 7, 2014 15:29:38 GMT
I also tweaked rear hooks a bit, couple of weeks ago. No gaps no more. A lot easier to fit side panels too.
When I bought my PX it had aftermarket rear rack. With the rack it was impossible to fit side panels properly. Springs just could not reach their hooks at all. Came to my mind that if you have aftermarket rear rack?
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Post by partanen on Mar 7, 2014 15:14:12 GMT
As it's tuned for catalytic converter, it surely will run lean if you don't change jet, or jets. Not such good idea to use it before jetting.
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Post by partanen on Mar 4, 2014 10:05:11 GMT
Needle and e-clip is there to adjust air fuel mixture, doesn't affect while engine is idling.
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Post by partanen on Mar 3, 2014 11:49:39 GMT
I see. Thanks.
Dremel maybe?
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Post by partanen on Mar 1, 2014 10:48:50 GMT
I'd like to know why not to chamfer alloy barrel? Does it ruin the nicasil coating or why is that?
Scooterwest recommend to do so for Malossi barrel, which is made of alloy.
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