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Post by partanen on Jun 6, 2014 10:29:21 GMT
I had exactly same problems some time ago. I'm still pretty sure it was caused by over tighten clutch nut. Correct torque for the cosa clutch nut is only 40-45Nm, which I thought was a mistake, but it wasn't. If you tighten it too much the oil pump cog gear will bend, and causes the clutch drag. At least that's what happened to me.
A slight clutch dragging causes all your problems with gears as well.
What was your torque setting when you tightened the clutch nut?
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Post by partanen on May 29, 2014 16:27:23 GMT
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Post by partanen on May 26, 2014 8:50:16 GMT
Throttle slide without air pocket would be a good choice to be on safer side. I just put one in and I can say throttle response is better now, at partial throttle.
Is the slide with air pocket installed only for these later models?
I'd still like to know if holed piston can be prevent by giving more fuel. Richer mixture should give cooler combustion temperatures.
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Post by partanen on May 23, 2014 20:30:17 GMT
To get all the hole picking out of the way in one post. If you have a standard 200 barrel and standard 200 head with the 3mm squish, the timing stays at 23 degrees on the A mark. If you retard the timing it will go fine, nearly the same but will feel a bit sluggish low down, drink more fuel and increase EGT. Ok rant over Run a SIP pipe at 23 and you'll hole the piston. I found that out the expensive way - three pistons in the first year - but not one since. The advice is on SIPs website. How about bigger main jet? It should cool down the combustion temperature.
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Post by partanen on May 22, 2014 20:41:55 GMT
As we have a quite warm weather at the moment 122 feels a bit too rich. Then again we do not have 26 celsius every day. And this damn 5% ethanol, which ruins everything normal.
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Post by partanen on May 22, 2014 20:01:14 GMT
These newer ones had 116 main jet. Add 5% more, it would be 121,8. To be on safer side I tried 125. Trying to find correct ignition timing at the same time and that's why I'm still pondering between those two.
I had more oomph at some point, but then I reduced ignition timing to "IT".
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Post by partanen on May 22, 2014 18:47:16 GMT
Sip Road 2.0 is a tad louder than genuine pipe. But the sound is close to original. For sure works great. Better use bigger jet though. I have 122 at the moment. I have tried 125, but I'm not sure which is better, yet.
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Post by partanen on May 22, 2014 17:32:52 GMT
Sip Road 2.0
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Post by partanen on May 15, 2014 12:20:24 GMT
I would understand if it was sealed only one side. So gear oil would lubricate it, and outer seal would prevent dirt entering the bearing in case that shaft seal fails.
Maybe this is on of those times when italians amazes me. Last time they did it when I realised that Cosa clutch doesn't need washer under the nut. Flange nut and cog gear between crankshaft and clutch is enough. Better not tighten it more than 40-45 Nm though. Earlier models may differ and I don't know a lot about them.
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Post by partanen on May 15, 2014 8:34:44 GMT
Which bearing is this? Driveshaft? I wonder why it's sealed. It should be lubricated by gear oil? Now it is not. I noticed that Sip offers sealed bearings for driveshaft. I just don't get it why.
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Post by partanen on May 12, 2014 8:56:27 GMT
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Post by partanen on May 9, 2014 11:07:21 GMT
Some sanding and the cylinder head looked a lot better. It's in use at the moment.
Now I wonder should I purchase early Piaggio head, or mmw head.
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Post by partanen on May 8, 2014 20:06:00 GMT
I have sip road and air filter with holes already. I think next step is the cylinder head as I like the way stock engine behaves. I would not like to buy the Malossi cylinder yet.
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Post by partanen on May 8, 2014 19:56:13 GMT
I wanted to know if this crack was leaking, luckily it didn't.
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Post by partanen on May 8, 2014 11:19:36 GMT
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Post by partanen on May 8, 2014 11:01:56 GMT
Here is one from year 2003 model:
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Post by partanen on May 7, 2014 16:22:54 GMT
Maybe dumb question, but what gives or cause the scars?
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Post by partanen on May 4, 2014 15:36:56 GMT
I might do that some day. For now I think it's close so I can sleep at night.
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Post by partanen on May 4, 2014 15:33:56 GMT
Usually we have only 6-7 months scootering time in year. At least how I see it.
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Post by partanen on May 4, 2014 6:23:53 GMT
I do. I have to start to practice the right technique to kick start.
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Post by partanen on May 3, 2014 19:41:53 GMT
I was trying to make video, but still picture looks better: Timing marks at the stator where at "A" as I told earlier. But with running engine marks were between "A" and "IT". I tweaked stator marks between "A" and "IT", and now "running engine marks" seems to be at "IT". So ignition was spot on from the factory. I'm not saying they made it on purpose. I believe they didn't have time time to check it. These days. I dare not to think what's coming.
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Post by partanen on May 3, 2014 12:39:03 GMT
I was almost forgotten this thought already. Then "sbwnik" said magical words "early 200 heads". So can I use early higher compression head on my modern PX200 with electric start? If not, why? One thing came to my mind. More compression and starter cannot turn the engine anymore? Starter struggle already with original head, sometimes. Then I've been thinking about MMW head for original cylinder: www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/cylinder+head+mmw+px200+for_13013930Anyone tried MMW? Does it work? Or is 10,5:1 compression ratio too much for stock crank shaft for example? Thanks again.
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Post by partanen on May 3, 2014 12:27:39 GMT
Zip ties did the job. At least with original spring. Carbone spring is quite a lot stiffer. Carbone shock and original spring:
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Post by partanen on May 3, 2014 12:20:18 GMT
Beedspeed says: 18 degrees PX Electric Modern setting for Unleaded.
Makes me think if I can use more advanced ignition with 98 octane petrol. Any benefits, propably not. Piaggio allows 95 octane, but that I don't want to use because it contains more ethanol.
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Post by partanen on May 2, 2014 12:29:51 GMT
The reason I brought octane to this discussion is that if it has influence to ingnition timing.
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Post by partanen on May 2, 2014 12:25:00 GMT
I have new float needle in, I think tip was red. I may have to take carb out again anyway as fixing bolts were loose. New gaskets and some thread lock might work.
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Post by partanen on May 2, 2014 12:17:27 GMT
I'm in Finland. In here they have to label how much ethanol is included in petrol. We have 95E10 and 98E5. Latter number tells maximum ethanol amount included. I guess ethanol and 2 stroke oil cannot work together very well.
I have timing lamp, but I guess I have to purchase degree disk someday soon.
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Post by partanen on May 2, 2014 9:16:47 GMT
I have PX200 2003. Timing was set half way between "IT" and "A". I'm pretty sure it's factory setting. How accurate it is, who knows. Do they set these properly at the factory? Then I set it to "A", as been advised all over internet for PX200. Today I read Haynes manual, and it says that ignition timing for for PX125/150/200 electric start models should be set 18 degrees BTDC at 2500 - 3000 rpm. We all know Haynes, but then I found this: beedspeed.com/html-pages/IgnitionTiming.htm To me it says 18 degrees for PX200 modern, and 23 degrees for older P200. Now I wonder what is the big difference between 150 and 200cc engine. So big that they need different ignition timing? Or why different setting for older 200? I use 98 octane fuel because our 95 octane fuel includes up to 10% of ethanol. (98 includes up to 5% ethanol which I don't like at all.) I haven't noticed any pinking so far. Then how accurate are timing marks? This might be the only way to be sure: I just wanted to ask what you think? Thanks in advance.
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Post by partanen on Apr 29, 2014 6:12:30 GMT
Gearbox oil smokes white too Or blue?
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Post by partanen on Apr 27, 2014 20:12:45 GMT
Usually "white smoke" is actually steam. Too rich mixture gives black smoke.
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