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Post by partanen on Jan 20, 2015 10:26:54 GMT
Yes, from scooterproducts.com I bought mine. I was searching those topics, but this was what I found.
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Post by partanen on Jan 19, 2015 20:55:41 GMT
Sausage's DVD is excellent I must say. I have done engine rebuild before I saw the DVD, but still I think that it's must have item if you own a Vespa. I was a bit worried if I could understand the spoken language as my native language isn't english. But no worries, it's easy to follow and understand what he says.
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Post by partanen on Dec 25, 2014 10:42:55 GMT
Merry Christmas from Finland. Here is my "scooter" during winter time: I know, and I'm sorry that it's not a Vespa.
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Post by partanen on Nov 24, 2014 18:21:24 GMT
Now my visit is behind, sadly. London is very nice city, I like it. A bit too busy for finnish guy like me, but I'm going to miss all those pubs and ales I tasted. Of course people were nice too. London Motorcycle Museum was excellent, at least for me as I like everything old and mechanical. Not much scooters, but one Triumph Tina, and Lambretta. I have never seen those before. They have nice collection of british motorcycles though. We couldn't go to Ace Cafe this time.
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Post by partanen on Nov 18, 2014 18:19:41 GMT
Thanks henri. Actually I'm subscriber of Scootering Magazine as well. I'll check it too.
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Post by partanen on Nov 18, 2014 9:26:08 GMT
I'm coming to visit in London next weekend. Could you recommend scooter related places to see or visit? So far I have found: Scooter caffe www.yelp.co.uk/biz/scooter-caff%C3%A8-london-2London motorcycle museum: www.london-motorcycle-museum.org/Of course I could visit a Vespa dealer, but I don't know which one is worth it. Some pubs I should go if I would like to see vintage scooters and meet riders?
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Post by partanen on Oct 17, 2014 18:21:28 GMT
Full tank, less condensed water in tank. Well, sometimes we have -32c, and another day +6c, during winter. Condensed water may be bigger issue here than there. Another thing is crank case. Temperature changes may collect quite a lot water for crank case. Some kind of protection would be good there as well. Good layer of 2-stroke oil thru spark plug hole at least. And the battery. I'd like to take it inside, and charge it every month with battery tender. I know vehicles needs movement. But if you cannot give it to them, you can make something (or a lot if you wish) to prevent their suffer during long term storage. Edit: Oh, and no cover if you have garage, or at least a shed. Maybe a layer of thin canvas, which breathes well. Non breathing cover only gives more rust.
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Post by partanen on Oct 16, 2014 11:33:43 GMT
I've ordered a couple of times from www.scooter-center.com/ in Germany. Sometimes you could get OEM parts quite reasonable price. Gaskets for example. Or something which you didn't even know you needed at first place. Don't get fooled when they say "OEM Quality", it's totally different than OEM part. There has to be mentioned brand "Piaggio", then it's original part. But don't bother contact them, nor give feedback. They surely don't bother to give you an answer. Maybe they are just busy, but I think it is a bit annoying.
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Post by partanen on Oct 6, 2014 20:57:54 GMT
Facilities looks great. I would still like to know if it was a matter of wrong jetting, or a lack of lubrication. Do you premix, or do you use mixer device?
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Post by partanen on Oct 5, 2014 1:28:29 GMT
To me it looks like you cannot rebore that cylinder. Let's hope I'm wrong. Nicasil or similar, cannot remember how Malossi calls it.
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Post by partanen on Sept 18, 2014 16:23:42 GMT
Workshop manual which is translated from italian to english. What could go wrong? First I blamed italian vehicles. Then I realised it's manual which caused problems. Just push "securing tongue" with screw driver to release "master cylinder". Anyway, lock barrel needs to be at position "off". Then push tiny plate in. Red arrow shows the plate, green arrow shows the direction where you want to pull the whole lock assembly: It's impossible to pull only the cylinder barrel out, you have to take the assembly out. Push screw driver thru this hole: Be careful while you pull the lock assembly out. There is tiny spring plate coming out at the same time. Don't lose it.
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Post by partanen on Sept 17, 2014 6:20:31 GMT
Old topic but suits well for my needs.
PX disc 2003 with integrated steering and ignition lock. I lost one key and I don't know where. I thought it's better change all locks as they are inexpensive compared to a key. Now I have new set of lock barrels, 3 barrels, 2 keys.
At the same time I bought new oem seat and inserting new lock barrel could not be easier.
Steering lock seems to be trickier. All help I could find from internet is how to remove lock barrel by drilling. Or at least steering fork needs to be removed. Is this really the case that you cannot remove lock barrels without damaging something else? Not even with working key? If so I'll wait that our riding season ends. In winter I have plenty of time to do bigger jobs.
Thanks in advance.
EDit: My fingers were faster than mind, sorry. I have copy of PX150 workshop manual which tells how to replace lock barrels when locks can be opened (with the key). Workshop manual can be found from internet. I dare not to copy even a part of it and show you as I don't have copyrights. I hope you understand.
I hope this helps someone who struggles with same problems from now on. Maybe google find this writing.
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Post by partanen on Sept 16, 2014 15:37:26 GMT
What if your piston rings still need some pressure to settle properly? Too gentle break-in and piston rings will leak for ever. Just guessing here.
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Post by partanen on Sept 16, 2014 15:29:05 GMT
Thanks. I've browsed those site several times, but never ordered anything. Now I could. I took my engine to pieces last winter, and now it runs well, but I'm sure there is always something new to learn.
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Post by partanen on Sept 16, 2014 15:24:26 GMT
I don't quite get it how timing could cause spitting? When there is ignition in combustion chamber rotary valve is closed. Or at least it should be closed.
I had some spitting when I had MMW high pressure cylinder head. When I went back to stock head spitting ended. I'm not quite getting it either. Might be something to do with induction timing though
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Post by partanen on Sept 16, 2014 5:27:31 GMT
I'd like to buy original ones, but where could I find thrusworthy seller, who sends to Finland? How could I check if eBay sellers are selling legal copies or not?
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Post by partanen on Sept 7, 2014 18:50:47 GMT
I've been told (by SIP) it's mixture screw in these SI carburettors. Wind it in gives leaner mixture. Wind it out gives richer mixture.
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Post by partanen on Sept 5, 2014 15:31:50 GMT
Isn't there a risk of holed piston, if you use too small jets?
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Post by partanen on Sept 1, 2014 9:39:20 GMT
While waiting better answers I wonder why b8es? Wouldn't b7es be better. Generally If spark plug is too cold it cannot clean itself and will become sooty.
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Post by partanen on Aug 27, 2014 17:17:51 GMT
No lights when I turn the key. Horn works, I just tried.
If your battery is ok, I'd say you may have problems with start button, or clutch lever switch (there has to be one even if I have not seen it yet).
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Post by partanen on Aug 27, 2014 15:35:53 GMT
Is it new to you? I mean did it ever work? Can you get it running with kick starter?
I have one from year 2003. Nothing happens when I turn ignition on. But I pull clutch lever, hit start button and it's a live.
You could find one fuse close to battery. Check it first.
Then you measure battery voltage. Good if it's over 12.5V.
Just something what came to my mind. Someone else may continue.
Edit: "kru251" was faster.
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Post by partanen on Aug 26, 2014 20:55:32 GMT
Oh, sorry. New term for me. Cleaning and lubricating that thing is so easy that I could do it in anyway. Although I did it last winter if I remember right.
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Post by partanen on Aug 25, 2014 17:55:46 GMT
I replaced all cables during last winter. I've ridden about 2000km after that. It was some kind of teflon based grease, but I'm not sure how good it could be.
If you pull used inner cable out can you ever push it back in?
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Post by partanen on Aug 25, 2014 11:28:21 GMT
I chose SAE 30 lawnmower oil and gear changing is easier now. It's stiffer when cold, but better when warm. Maybe too fancy oil caused slight clutch dragging, I'm not sure.
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Post by partanen on Aug 23, 2014 17:35:29 GMT
Bellmouth would be good no doubt. I just don't like the idea that engine breathes warm air. If there were any kit which includes some kind of filter for original rubber duct I would buy it right away. I actually tried to install layer of foam filter inside the rubber duct with metal mesh. It collected dirt quite well, but I just couldn't trust it enough. So I now have standard filter without bellmouth.
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Post by partanen on Aug 22, 2014 20:21:16 GMT
Summer temperatures here are like italian winter temperatures. 15 to 30 celsius. So I'm still thinking that SAE 10w-30 would be good around here.
Gears aren't actually crunching, but gear lever is harder to turn when engine is warm. I just need to use more force to change gears. That's why I wonder should I change the oils, or lubricate cables. Or then I'll do both.
I twist the throttle gently when engine is cold. I'm not sure if engine really warms up when stationary, as it's air cooled. Maybe it reaches operating temperature sooner if I took of as soon it runs properly without choke.
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Post by partanen on Aug 22, 2014 17:00:49 GMT
GL-4 is actually gear oil. Piaggio recommends it at their italian user's manual. I guess it protects the gear cogs better than SAE 30 engine oil. Then again my 10w-30 Motorex GL-4 synthetic gear oil might be too fancy for Vespa's gearbox and clutch. Maybe I should try more traditional GL-4 gear oil. I think it's a bit odd that gear changing is smooth when engine is cold, and gets trickier when engine is warm. I don't use my scooter at winter. It would not be nice.
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Post by partanen on Aug 19, 2014 5:46:01 GMT
Piaggio recommend gl-4, last 40 years. That's what I have at the moment, but I have some gear change difficulties when engine is warm. Should I try sae 30, what you think? When engine is cold everything is fine.
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Post by partanen on Aug 17, 2014 7:12:15 GMT
Hot air from engine compartment and a lot of induction noise? Not for me I think.
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Post by partanen on Aug 1, 2014 16:59:08 GMT
I don't know exactly when it leaks. Rarely anyway, and not much really. I thought it's spitting when engine runs, but can mixture screw leak? Or is there O-ring which can be changed? Jets are seated. It's PX 200 and I thought the bowl under carburettor is called carb bowl. I took a picture to express myself more clearly: Excessive fuel comes out between mixture screw and grommet.
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