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Post by partanen on Feb 26, 2014 8:47:17 GMT
Is it 2 stroke or 4 stroke? If latter, have you checked valve clearances? If it's 2 stroke someone else may know better than I what you should do. You may need to open the engine to see what is going on.
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Post by partanen on Feb 26, 2014 8:41:36 GMT
Welcome on my behalf.
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Post by partanen on Feb 26, 2014 8:39:06 GMT
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Post by partanen on Feb 25, 2014 8:44:45 GMT
Not nice. How old the piston is, or how much it was used?
I've been told that some 2 stroke engines needs new piston every 10 000 km or so to prevent piston breakage. I'm not sure if I want to do that, but it may be needed if you take a lot of power out of Vespa's engine.
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Post by partanen on Feb 23, 2014 11:34:33 GMT
How about those holes of the piston? I'm only guessing, but maybe holes do the same than additional transfers of Malossi?
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Post by partanen on Feb 22, 2014 9:43:08 GMT
Just when I thought Malossi Sport 2013 is my choice then this appeared: blog.scooter-center.com/vespa-zylinder-pinasco-225-super-sport/You can change the language from right. Luckily I don't have to decide at this moment. 225cc long stroke would be nice (but a bit pricey for me). No modifications needed for crank case.
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Post by partanen on Feb 18, 2014 8:29:06 GMT
Overall costs are more important. Maybe their charge per hour is low and then they charge more hours to get the money they need.
I don't want it to sound as easy job, but it is doable. If you do it your self I'd say 1-3 hours.
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Post by partanen on Feb 15, 2014 9:16:08 GMT
For new bike they make the most important break-in procedure on dynamometer at the factory. Piston rings will settle at that point.
When my friend bought his Hayabusa, he rode like it was stolen. The bike gave best dynamometer results around here.
2 stroke may be different than 4 stroke in this case. But I'm not sure is it after all.
Scooterwest says you have to smoothen the port edges of new cylinder. Or you get troubles pretty soon.
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Post by partanen on Feb 14, 2014 8:03:59 GMT
I may want ot buy "Sausage's" films too, but I think "Scooterwest" films are good value for the money. As I'm very interested about technics and I think I know thing or two, I never can learn too much.
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Post by partanen on Feb 14, 2014 7:48:07 GMT
Even though I bought my PX from year 2003 a few months ago I took it to a parts almost right away. I kept in mind a couple of basic rules. Never hit ball bearing sideways and be gentle with crankshaft (as it's not solid).
I had a lot tighter fitting between main bearing and crankshaft than "crispin" just told. I don't know why. I wouldn't dare hit crankshaft on it's place as it needed quite a lot force to get off.
Ball bearings generally doesn't broke immediately if you hit them sideways. Balls make dents to outer and inner race quite easily, which leads lesser mileage.
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Post by partanen on Feb 14, 2014 7:36:24 GMT
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Post by partanen on Feb 10, 2014 16:08:54 GMT
"Out of true or twisted". That's what you may get if you hit the crankshaft back on its place, I'd say. Crankshaft is quite fragile if abused. This video tells what I'm trying to say, starts at 44sec.:
You may not need a lot of washers after all because at some point you can use clutch as a spacer.
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Post by partanen on Feb 9, 2014 9:02:54 GMT
I think it's better for the crankshaft is you pull it back to its place with a clutch nut. You may need some big washers though. Tapping is bad for the main bearing. Bigger risk is you bend the crankshaft, if you tap it from flywheel side.
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Tyres.
Feb 6, 2014 17:40:44 GMT
Post by partanen on Feb 6, 2014 17:40:44 GMT
Fourth and the oldest S83 is made in Italy, in year 2002. It appears to be tubeless and reinforced as well. It settles to the rim much more easily. I'm not sure if it's fair to compare 10 year old tyre and newer, but maybe they have made some changes. I thought a meter is same all around the world.
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Post by partanen on Feb 6, 2014 16:47:20 GMT
... If you must rebore, take it to a scooter shop to do it, they'll stock the piston and rings too That's surely the best way to go. But you may want to inquire what they are going to do. If I understand correctly the clearance should be 0.215mm. Don't shoot the messenger if I'm wrong, but that's the information I found from here: www.scooterhelp.com/manuals/VNX1T.VSX1T.service.manual/48.jpg (scooterhelp.com)
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Post by partanen on Feb 6, 2014 16:17:49 GMT
Looks like assembly needs some force as usual. Dents or marks are unavoidable, am I right? Proper tyre machine would help but I don't have one, at least yet.
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Tyres.
Feb 6, 2014 12:47:43 GMT
Post by partanen on Feb 6, 2014 12:47:43 GMT
These S83 which I have at home now are made in Serbia. 2 of them is made in year 2011, one is made in year 2013. All three are reinforced and can be used tubeless as well. I have one more at the garage, I'll check later where it's made in. It might be 10 years old as my PX is. I bet it's not made in Serbia. Their factory in Serbia might be new, then their machines are new as well. So it's not necessarily bad thing if tyres are made in Serbia. Who knows.
Then I have 3 new inner tube, made in India. Brand is Continental. Maybe that's just what you have to life with these days.
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Tyres.
Feb 6, 2014 10:02:53 GMT
Post by partanen on Feb 6, 2014 10:02:53 GMT
... All year rounds I tend to stick with Mitch S83 because I've used them for years, never had a problem (apart from tight fitting on the latest batch), find them a good value all rounder. ... I chose Michelin S83 because I like the classic look. They claim it's modern tyre with classic look. You can use it as tubeless as well. Is that why it's so tight fit? I've gathered bravery a couple of days now to assemble my new S83 tyre on rim. At first glance I saw it's tight fit and I left it alone before I even started. Maybe today with tyre mounting paste and a couple of ale. Just in case if someone haven't noticed: There is reinforced S83 as well. If you ride with passenger you may want reinforced model. Price is about the same. I would like to know what is the difference between reinforced and non reinforced, but I don't know at the moment.
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Tyres.
Feb 4, 2014 10:17:36 GMT
Post by partanen on Feb 4, 2014 10:17:36 GMT
Usually, soft compound (proper winter tyre) wear out faster when weather is warm, and handling may also suffer as tyre gets too soft. But gives more traction when weather is cold, road is wet or snowy.
Less soft compound (proper summer tyre) does not wear out too fast even if weather is warm. Still gives proper grip on wet roads.
Soft compound gives grip, but less mileage. Hard compound gives less grip, but more mileage.
I've read that people in UK uses winter tyres for their cars these days. Would it be good idea to do the same with scooters, as grip is even more important. For example Michelin City Grip Winter looks interesting, and isn't very expensive. I'm not sure if it's suitable for year round use, but they say it works as cold as -10c.
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Post by partanen on Feb 2, 2014 14:10:25 GMT
Can you change the tire yourself without marks on the tubeless rim?
Surely split rim is old fashioned, but that's why I like it. Maybe some day I buy tubeless rims and that's why I'm asking.
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Post by partanen on Feb 1, 2014 13:06:02 GMT
You have the MOT in there I believe? (we don't have here in Finland) Someone else may know how precise they are.
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Post by partanen on Feb 1, 2014 10:46:17 GMT
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Post by partanen on Feb 1, 2014 10:36:44 GMT
I definitely reckon Piaggio rims if you decide to use divided rims. Piaggio's bolts fits without problems and halves fits together right away. I managed to find Piaggio rims for 30€ each. www.scooter-center.com/product/5800010/Wheel+rim+PIAGGIO+210+10+steel+Vespa+type+PX+grey?meta=5800010*scd_ALL_en*s841279222128*rim%20px*11*11*1*16I should have said: "Now that I have seen cheap divided rim I'm not sure if I want to buy cheap est tubeless rim." If quality goes together with the price like it goes with these divided rims and many other things too. Is tube type tyre really so dangerous? Does is explode in case of puncture or how it goes? I have opportunity to try as I have old tyre, tube and wheel. Maybe I should make a video?
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Post by partanen on Feb 1, 2014 10:13:50 GMT
It is a German precision. They are not allowed to use products that are not TUV approved for road traffic. That's why they declare that the product is not approved for road use. Rest is up to the authorities, how accurate they are.
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Post by partanen on Jan 28, 2014 8:40:19 GMT
I think Gt200 is 4 stroke, so leaky crankshaft oil seals should not affect how engine runs. Rev limiter should work only at top speed, not full throttle acceleration at lower speeds. If rev limiter is kicking at lower speeds then variator needs service. New rollers at least, maybe a belt too. One worth to check is vacuum hose which opens vacuum operated fuel tap. If the hose leaks there's not enough vacuum to open the tap properly. Is the fuel filter somewhere in the fuel line or inside the tank? This picture shows there might be one filter inside the tank too: www.vespagenuineparts.co.uk/component-granturismo-200-l-2005-uk-fuel-tank-1385.php
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Post by partanen on Jan 27, 2014 10:50:35 GMT
I would clean the carburettor at first. It would be good to purchase some gaskets beforehand. It's not huge job and would be good thing to do anyway.
If I compare my Gts and PX, I would say that PX is a lot easier to repair and maintain. Parts are also cheaper for older scooter. Gts is doable but more complicated. I guess Gt is somewhere between.
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Post by partanen on Jan 27, 2014 10:25:24 GMT
I don't think it's warped, but halves doesn't fit perfectly together. I managed to reduce the gap when I opened and tightened nuts again.
I ordered a pair of Piaggio branded rims. Let's hope they are better made. I like divided rims because I can change tyres more easily. I ordered mounting paste and talcum powder as well to do things properly this time.
One of my existing rims was warped. I think that someone have treated it badly while changing the tyre.
Now that I have seen cheap divided rim I'm not sure if I want to buy cheap tubeless rim.
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Post by partanen on Jan 26, 2014 18:21:23 GMT
I received my wheel a couple of days ago. I thought I was lucky because rim was italian made, brand called F.A. Italia. Well, something has to be done before this meets my requirements. Maybe holes are too small for the bolts. I may have to drill holes a bit larger, or replace the bolts. But works as spare wheel as it is, I think.
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Post by partanen on Jan 21, 2014 15:40:20 GMT
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