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Post by partanen on Mar 10, 2015 11:03:14 GMT
I finally decided to order polished Pinasco wheels. Let's see how it goes. I'll try to find heavy machinery spare part shop and ask if they could sell me spare O-rings.
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Post by partanen on Mar 8, 2015 19:54:11 GMT
So far it looks like 20 to 25mm extender nut would be good. Is 35mm too much? Is there enough room? We'll see.
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Post by partanen on Mar 8, 2015 11:54:26 GMT
Scooter Center failed to answer me if they could offer o-rings for sale in near future.
So I could not decide if I want Pinasco split wheels. I have year old Piaggio steel wheels already. It was difficult to get S83 of from the wheel. How difficult it would be to remove S83 from Pinasco wheels. Then there is Sip tubeless wheel option.
Sorry, but it's so hard to decide.
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Post by partanen on Mar 4, 2015 21:31:09 GMT
That's what I'm going to do. I was just lazy. Let's blame the internet. I'm gonna tell you which length is good when I sort this out.
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Post by partanen on Mar 4, 2015 20:32:24 GMT
Surely I could measure the correct length by myself. Still a lot of time before season starts. I was pondering if 48mm is too long. Is there enough room for spare wheel still?
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Post by partanen on Mar 3, 2015 8:56:14 GMT
Quick hint... If you get a pair of rear shock extender nuts (they're just long nuts with an 8mm thread) and fasten them over the two studs that the spare mounts from, then you can fasten the wheel on the opposite way to normal. This means the valve can be accessed while the wheel is fastened to the scooter. Does anyone remember which rear shock extender nuts are correct length? For example Scooter Center offers 3 different lenghts for PX 200. Piaggio's nut seems to be 48mm www.scooter-center.com/explosion/id/N_Vespa_PX200_7_Tafel_45/C_V_ZAPM18?p=4940058&match=CAT#prdexplThey also have 43mm and 35mm nuts for the same purpose.
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Post by partanen on Feb 26, 2015 16:14:59 GMT
I see what you mean.
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Post by partanen on Feb 26, 2015 13:49:07 GMT
Better get adjustable clutch for tuning purposes. Then you can decide when clutch grabs.
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Post by partanen on Feb 25, 2015 19:42:12 GMT
I'm pretty sure, if and when we are talking about stock scooter. Racing scooter is another matter, I don't know so much about them.
Normally centrifugal clutch engage first. Once it's engaged at certain speed, then it's time to change gear ratio by rollers. From 0 to 15 mph rollers stays close to crank shaft -> centrifugal clutch is doing its job.
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Post by partanen on Feb 25, 2015 8:26:01 GMT
Usually Piaggio knows which rollers are good. Good compromise between acceleration and fuel economy. And Piaggio rollers should last whole service life.
So I would choose genuine rollers first. When the clutch is working properly, it should handle acceleration from 0 to 15 mph or so. At those lower speeds rollers do nothing really.
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Post by partanen on Feb 21, 2015 20:19:25 GMT
Yes. Plug is problem, not wires. I'm not sure if I need temperature gauge, but when tank is out, it's time to think about this.
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Post by partanen on Feb 20, 2015 19:41:51 GMT
Thanks for remind about additional wires. I'll need power for my sat nav. Somehow I managed to push an old outer cable thru the body quite easily. But then I noticed that hole for indicator wire is quite narrow. I'm not sure is there enough room for Koso wires. I didn't like the hobby at that moment and I ended up enjoying some ales instead.
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Post by partanen on Feb 17, 2015 16:37:00 GMT
I bought one and it's the last one for me. Halves doesn't fit together well enough. It would need some machining to fit. Here's a picture : I bought Piaggio wheels instead. Perfect fit and you can get them for 30 euros or so.
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Post by partanen on Feb 16, 2015 8:40:15 GMT
From where and how (with an old outer cable maybe?) do you pull Koso wires from engine to top of tool box (or vice versa)? Inside the body, or under the body?
I'd like to have invisible wiring, but is it possible with reasonable effort? I have changed outer cables a couple of times without problems. But is there a room for additional wire loom? I would not like to drill any holes.
I'm sorry if this has been discussed earlier. Thanks in advance.
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Post by partanen on Feb 16, 2015 7:17:44 GMT
One thing concerns me a bit. With long stroke crank piston rings needs to go 1.5mm further at top end and bottom end in barrel. So wouldn't it be good to hone the cylinder at least, if not re-bore before stroking?
And is there a crank you could recommend to stroke stock cylinder? It would be good if rotary valve timing is close to original I guess.
My engine is splitted at the moment because I needed to replace cruciform after 2500km, because I had problems with clutch. So it would be so easy to change crankshaft now. I cannot feel any step in barrel made by piston rings, but I can see colour change.
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Post by partanen on Feb 12, 2015 19:41:37 GMT
I have rubber in carb box, but if outer diameter of hose is less than 14mm, it will leak some (dusty) air from engine bay to the carb box. It could be kind of air leak too, lean mixture maybe.
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Post by partanen on Feb 12, 2015 17:02:14 GMT
Inner 7mm, outer 14mm says Scooter center. They sell "Piaggio" hose. I cannot link it here, I'm sorry.
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Post by partanen on Feb 12, 2015 10:56:19 GMT
Last summer I had fuel hose from third party, or how do you call it if it's not genuine spare part. It had larger inner diameter than genuine, but outer diameter was thinner than genuine. I couldn't seal it properly for the body, and there was kind of air leak from engine bay to inside the body. Thinner fuel hose is also quite hard to seal for carb box. That's why I bought "Piaggio" hose this time. It's thick enough to seal carb box and body pass trough.
1 meter sound quite a lot to me. Isn't there a risk that hose get kinked? Well, I better measure how long hose I used last summer. I always had to loosen the hose from carburettor to raise fuel tank.
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Post by partanen on Feb 12, 2015 7:35:33 GMT
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Post by partanen on Feb 11, 2015 8:45:24 GMT
I ask same question from myself time to time. But is it only the kit and where it ends if I start.
I have understood that stock clutch basket cannot bear higher revs. Reinforced clutch basket may be needed? Then you may want variable ignition timing.. List is endless.
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Post by partanen on Feb 11, 2015 7:48:24 GMT
Thanks.
Cases seems to be in good condition. I'm about to use grease only for gasket, no sealant. I wish I could say if there was oil leak with old brown gasket when I bought this scooter. There was tiny gear oil drop under the gear box before I opened cases last winter. I looked like the lowest case bolt was leaking. But then the whole engine was covered with 2 stroke oil, so I can't be sure.
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Post by partanen on Feb 8, 2015 12:38:59 GMT
I can't decide which case gasket I should use. I have two "Piaggio" gaskets, or at least seller claimed they are OEM gaskets. One is green, another is brown. Material is different, green feels more like a gasket to me. But this engine (PX200EFL) had brown gasket when it was opened at first time one year ago. I had green one last summer, and it did its job good enough. Green needs some work to fit properly, but not much. Brown may be less visible when fitted. I guess my question is: Is brown gasket good enough to hold oil in gear box? Is green gaskets newer style from Piaggio? Here is green: Here is brown on top of green:
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Post by partanen on Jan 30, 2015 15:46:33 GMT
Soft rubber gives better grip?
Scooter Center answered, that they cannot find O-rings for Pinasco wheels from their shop. No kidding!
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Post by partanen on Jan 30, 2015 9:33:58 GMT
Probably language barrier. I asked from Scooter-Center if they have spare O-rings for Pinasco rims. He didn't understand what I mean. He asked if I mean inner tube.
Looks like Pinasco doesn't offer spare O-rings for these. At least I couldn't find part number for it.
He said Pinasco wheels would fit for my 2003 PX200.
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Post by partanen on Jan 29, 2015 9:53:10 GMT
Pinascos surely cost a bit more, but I would get money back at first tyre change. I don't know how to change tyre for solid tubeless wheel without damage, so I would have to give the job for "professional", who would ruin the wheel anyway. So I would have to buy another pair of wheels. Last summer went well without tubeless. Somehow I'd like to go tubeless. I was about to buy some puncture stuff, but label on side of bottle told that it can cause unbalance for the tyre. And that stuff was expensive. Michelin S83 seems to wear pretty soon. One at rear lasted 2500km. I should have changed it from rear to front earlier to get some more mileage. Anyway these small tyres needs some work more often, so I would like it be easy. As easy it could be with split wheels.
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Post by partanen on Jan 28, 2015 20:16:59 GMT
What are changes for engine then? More power at higher revs, or more torque at low revs? Or both? This is getting interesting now.
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Post by partanen on Jan 28, 2015 8:24:51 GMT
Sounds good. I was thinking grey ones, but black would be good too.
I found new o-rings online, but not from my favourite sellers. I guess those o-rings can be found somewhere when needed.
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Post by partanen on Jan 27, 2015 19:38:51 GMT
I think I have 'spokey' wheel hub, if that's what you mean? Looks the same than those latest ones has.
Maybe I should ask about wheels from Scooter Center. Maybe they aren't so busy than they are at summer time.
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Post by partanen on Jan 27, 2015 17:01:06 GMT
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Post by partanen on Jan 22, 2015 10:03:36 GMT
Some mix them, but every other needs to be same weight to get it balance. If you mix heavy and lighter together, result is average from both. Rollers work together, not separately.
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