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Post by skrappey on Jan 22, 2008 18:55:09 GMT
On the exhaust front, surely it is a sito and the front bolt is just a captive bolt. Should be easy enough to remove with a hacksaw. New 10mm bolt and job's a goodun. Slap that waxoil on, can't do any harm.
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Post by skrappey on Dec 4, 2007 18:35:29 GMT
I have a bit of a crutch for doing it in my toolbox. Get a pair of crutches and saw off the centre section, make sure to include the sliding part. Goes down to about 6ins long and expands to about 9ins when pulled out. Expand and place under rear of scooter. It's aluminium and quite strong.
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Post by skrappey on Nov 15, 2007 20:13:46 GMT
You are surely blessed, we don't have any of those first two, but I do remember the sods during my time there. Our rabbits are huge though.
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Post by skrappey on Nov 14, 2007 19:58:41 GMT
Should be about £20, you may have to change the connectors, not a big job and use a halogen bulb. One tip, make sure it's a GB light (right hand drive) and not a 'genuine' italian one which is designed for 'left hand drive'. You'll fail the MOT you have there and also blind oncoming drivers.
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Post by skrappey on Nov 2, 2007 20:02:23 GMT
Plain old white spirit shifts the sh*t.
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Post by skrappey on Oct 21, 2007 16:20:41 GMT
Sorry to hear about the epilepsy mate, my dad and sister are so afflicted also, bummer. 'Doing up a scooter' is quite a learning curve but ultimately very rewarding and great fun. If you don't actually get to ride it at least you will be able to see it ridden. Get your dad to get a license, at least you can go on the back. ps, my dad was stopped driving wagons, but was allowed to drive ambulances! wierd.
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Post by skrappey on Oct 3, 2007 18:41:47 GMT
Take it all out again and check the torque settings when reassembling. Sounds like it is 'rattling' itself loose. Either that or take it a bit easier with the gear changing..
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Post by skrappey on Oct 21, 2007 16:24:02 GMT
Angle grinder every time. More sparkly bits.
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Post by skrappey on Oct 4, 2007 18:03:47 GMT
All treated as such, you honestly think I'd spend a fortune for a decent kit on an LML? Having said that, it got me to the IOW and back without any problems and my old lady was on the back.
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Post by skrappey on Oct 3, 2007 18:57:22 GMT
Why not go the cheap route, drop an Olympic on it. Not changes apart from the jet. Or buy a second hand P2 lump and inherit any problems (why is it for sale?)
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Post by skrappey on Oct 4, 2007 18:00:25 GMT
What i meant was this, under the black plastic cap that covers the sender unit, you can see the wires going into the sender via a grey, triangular fitting directly on top of the unit. This is a plug and can just be pulled off leaving the wires free to do what you fancy with them. To reconnect you just plug it back in. No need to remove the sender unit at all, just unplug, remove back rest and plug back in. If yours doesn't unplug, my apologies. My PX used to be the same and I just assumed all were similar. I have checked and my LML hasn't got a sender as it has a reserve.
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Post by skrappey on Oct 3, 2007 18:39:01 GMT
Surely it just unplugs from under the cap? My T5 certainly does.
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Post by skrappey on Oct 3, 2007 18:53:46 GMT
Crack on old son, why not cut a scoot if that's what you like? I wouldn't cut a Lambretta unless it was absolutely dire, although if you can get a spare set of panels Maybe you could chop and change in line with the weather? I ride a cut down T5, because it was beyond economical repair due to too many dents and deviations. I also have a full LML 180 so I can change without the hard work. Try to get a right minger that needs extensive work to it to get it straight and complete, it should be cheap enough, plenty in Scootering. You don't need to be an expert, just methodical that's all. Use either an angle grinder, or the much easier to control, jigsaw. It will cut the panels easily. Plan it and take your time, once cut you can't stick it back on. The handling doesn't change that much, as has been said just lighter, depends how much you cut really. One thing is, it goes faster in the wind because it cuts down drag a bit. Any advice needed, just ask.
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Post by skrappey on Oct 23, 2007 19:02:48 GMT
Simonini, mucho noise. (mind, it could sound like gunfire through a tunnel so you might consider moving)
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Post by skrappey on Sept 16, 2007 13:29:08 GMT
I have had drag on my T5 clutch for some time now so have decided enough is enough and time to change it. Rather than a repair/overhaul I have gone for a clutch out of a P200 engine I have in the shed. On stripping down I find the clutch cog is bigger on the T5. Is it better to change the cogs over or should I change the whole gear train for the P200 one? I have changed the cogs for now to get on the road so am looking to do it on a rainy afternoon soon, if it's worthwhile. (I don't really want to take the engine out of the bike for it either)
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Post by skrappey on Sept 17, 2007 18:35:08 GMT
Without much experience of cats on a geared bike, it is difficult to know what to recommend, try tweaking the mixture screw to get a decent amount of air in, that would explain the failure to pick up on throttle, otherwise just increase the throttle to keep it running, when it is run in it should sort itself out. First though, take it back to the dealer you bought it off and park it in the doorway until it is running right. (new ones tend to have a sh*tload of foam in the air intake box just below the seat (the hole in the front) get it out, not necessary in UK. It seems it is being starved of air. ps, bet you bought it from MSC, I used to live there, I have experience of them.
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Post by skrappey on Sept 1, 2007 21:39:04 GMT
with a Sito an up-jet would be a good idea, just ask for a 100 jet, no great mystery there. My bone of contention with 'up-jetting' is that you put more petrol through the engine and therefore, on auto feed engines, weaken the mixture. I have had discussions about premixing but been shouted down . I guess it's up to the rider. Why not just slap on an olympic and have done with it? (108 jet), certainly increases the output and a Sito works well with one. As for changing the jet, piece of p*sh and takes two minutes, see the manual.
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Post by skrappey on Aug 18, 2007 8:52:06 GMT
Just a quick question, why would you want to drive without mirrors? Part of the test is observation, surely no mirrors = not much observation. Just fit some mirrors and get the test over with, throw them away afterwards if you like.
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Post by skrappey on Oct 8, 2007 18:36:03 GMT
I think he's winding you up, give him a slap.
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Post by skrappey on Jul 6, 2007 7:38:14 GMT
I use Liverpool Victoria, costs about $50 fully comp. Useful being 52 with maximum no claims and a four bike policy. My daughter is 20 and costs £250 FC as a learner on 100cc Peugeot twist and go. Always used LV and find them really useful and helpful. Google 'FRIZZELL' for results.
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Post by skrappey on Jul 29, 2007 18:54:49 GMT
I personally used a 4" cuttting blade and some earplugs. Really you should be ok, classics haven't got hydraulic brakes so just undo at the wheel end and drop that sucker out. Renewing the bearing is a good idea, saves doing it all again some other day. Taking off and replacing the guard is obvious once you've got that far. Give yourself the morning or afternoon so you can take your time and do it properly. And, the nut you have left over at the finish is vital to the safety of the scooter.
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Post by skrappey on Oct 8, 2007 18:38:44 GMT
OI I run all my bikes on that stuff and it's lovely. Basically it's just regular stuff with smelly added, it's only about 0.05% so doesn't do any harm. I wish they'd make banana flavoured, or Marmite.
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Post by skrappey on Jul 16, 2007 20:43:52 GMT
No question is stupid, we all need to learn and this is an excellent forum for that. You are correct, the deep rim over the hub. you should only see 5 nuts if fitted correctly, if you can see 10 it's wrong. As for why his tyre shredded, that's another question. Is the wheel hub tight? If loose it could cause rubbing, but you would notice if it was due to sh*te handling. Put more air in the tyre 28 lb rear, or 33 two up. could it be rubbing the exhaust, a 'sports one' often does this if loose. Is the tyre on the right way round? there is an arrow on the edge, point it forwards to rotation. This could cause the problem. I always ask "what's the last thing you did before the problem presented itself, undo it and see what happens" Usually works. Don't be afraid to ask.
If your friend is still alive tell him to change it back immediately!
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Post by skrappey on Jul 14, 2007 14:09:14 GMT
Clear lacquer will work in the short term, theoretically, as it doesn't peel off your paint why should it off a polished wheel rim? I find that it does let the moisture in eventually and tarnish, then it's a sod to get off the rim again. Light grease, (vaseline?) will work but could, if too liberal with it, transfer to discs or onto tyres, your risk really. Why not go stainless? Tubeless rims with fitted tyres are usually stainless and will last for ages, not quite as shiny but so what? Alternately paint the rims to match your scoot, I think it looks much more professional and classy IMHO. Whatever you do, as long as they're turning who cares?
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Post by skrappey on Jul 29, 2007 18:59:42 GMT
Another possible cause recognised and fixed, only 1,999 to go.
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Post by skrappey on Jul 17, 2007 19:54:58 GMT
It's obvious the fuel isn't entering the float chamber fast enough, clean filters and check supply pipe, both at carb and at base of tank. You'll know if it's at tank because of the smell of petrol and puddle in your drive. If you need to take tank out, check the tap, it could be only turning half way if it's a T5, which has an all or nothing tap, no reserve setting. It could only be half open. Sounds a bloody annoying one this, keeep on and you'll find the problem eventually. Wish you luck.
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Post by skrappey on Jul 15, 2007 17:23:10 GMT
Please tell us if it sorts itself out. So I can gloat a bit.
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Post by skrappey on Jul 14, 2007 14:12:23 GMT
Could be as simple as a blocked breather hole on the filler cap. Try riding without filler cap on and see if it stalls. Try simplest thing first.
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Post by skrappey on Jul 6, 2007 7:19:00 GMT
A tip for later, put the brake/clutch fully on and tie off with a cable tie at business end, (may take two people) then when you fix new lever just cut tie and tension is restored to as it was before without fiddling with cables.
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Post by skrappey on Jul 6, 2007 7:16:05 GMT
Grips are just a matter of brute force really, try spraying a little WD40 under them first, or warming them up with a hairdryer, makes them more malleable (bendy). Check the new grips fit first, some can be too loose and useless. After removing one check fit. As for T5 for the test, get an LML, see other threads for details.
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