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Post by kev0312 on Jul 4, 2007 16:30:13 GMT
Hi all!
After being kindly knocked off my new scooter the other week, I am in the process of some minor repairs.
Thankfully minimal damage was done to the bike ( or myself ), with the kickstart and front brake lever taking the brunt of the impact, along with some repainting required
Anyhow, I bought some carbon effect disc levers off ebay and they arrived today. They look superb and can't wait to get them on the bike.
Basically, before dismantling the other ones I am wondering is it easy to change them over. I am using the bike pretty much on a daily basis and don't particularly want it off the road for any length of time, but.... ( and a big but!!).... evrytime I start what appears to be a simple job, it turns into an epic and costly one at that.
Nothing in the Haynes manual, and can't find a previous thread on here on this subject.
Any advice, much appreciated.
Cheers
Kev
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Post by skrappey on Jul 4, 2007 19:56:13 GMT
What do you mean by "disc levers" is it at handlebar end, or wheel end?
If handlebar end see page 89 under 'clutch cable'. It really is that easy, takes 10 minutes. If it's a hydaulic brake, it's even quicker.!
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Post by kev0312 on Jul 4, 2007 21:12:30 GMT
sorry, bit vague before.
The brakes levers are for a disc brake rather than the drum brake ( the difference, who knows? )
I need to take the old brake and clutch lever off the bike and fit these new ones.
My main concern is when diconnecting the cable from the old lever and then having to reconnect, losing tension etc
If you haven't already guessed I am not very mechanically minded. Just a tight arse who doesn't want to pay someone to do it!!
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Big Al
1st Class Ticket
Big Al's little demon...
Posts: 93
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Post by Big Al on Jul 5, 2007 9:14:00 GMT
Don't worry Kev, i'm also a total mechanical newbie currently getting to grips with my first scooter, and replacing the clutch cable has been one of the easiest jobs i've done so far. The haynes manual does a great job of explaining the whole thing - the lever end of the cables ends in a large metal blob (correct technical term?) which simply fits into a hole at the end of the lever, and any re-tensioning required at the business end of the clutch/brake cables is very simple to do.
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alanw
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 31
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Post by alanw on Jul 5, 2007 11:50:22 GMT
nipple but i much prefer your description ;D ;D
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Post by Spence on Jul 5, 2007 11:53:44 GMT
Really? I prefer nipples to blobs.
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Post by kev0312 on Jul 5, 2007 22:04:05 GMT
Cheers for the advice.
After all that, it took about 10 minutes to change them over.
Not ridden it yet but it feels as if the brake lever is causing the pad to sit very slightly against the disc. Will have to sort it out tomorrow.
This may be even dafter, but I have also got some new grips on the way. Is it just brute force to get the original grips off?
Must admit, prefer nipples also!!
I know it's not a technical issue....... I am hoping to get rid of the "L"s soon and am wondering does anybody know of any instructors in the north-west who has a T5 so you can do your license on a scooter. Only have a px and dont know anyone with a T5 but don't particularly want to go onto a bike for test!
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Post by skrappey on Jul 6, 2007 7:16:05 GMT
Grips are just a matter of brute force really, try spraying a little WD40 under them first, or warming them up with a hairdryer, makes them more malleable (bendy). Check the new grips fit first, some can be too loose and useless. After removing one check fit.
As for T5 for the test, get an LML, see other threads for details.
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Post by skrappey on Jul 6, 2007 7:19:00 GMT
A tip for later, put the brake/clutch fully on and tie off with a cable tie at business end, (may take two people) then when you fix new lever just cut tie and tension is restored to as it was before without fiddling with cables.
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alanw
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 31
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Post by alanw on Jul 6, 2007 12:47:33 GMT
I just cut mine off with a stanley knife (mind your fingers unless your bikes red ;D) and just opened them up and pulled them off.
tip, well i thought it looked better, if fitting sundance grips(yes i know some people think they are sh!t) cut off the grips leaving the inside bit ,which will then look like a big rubber washer then you butt up the sundance grip up to it which stops you seeing down the inside of the grip
clear as mud well i understand it ;D
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Post by Robjack on Jul 6, 2007 13:39:14 GMT
I did as alanw above with mine. Another sundance grip tip is weigh up where the grub screws will go, and put a couple of turns of masking tape around the handle for the grub screws to sink into. They come loose if you just tighten them against the handlebar. Also put a couple more turns at the outside edge of the handlebar to balance it and stop vibration.
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Post by Devo McDuff on Jul 6, 2007 14:06:24 GMT
When I first got my bike the grip on the clutch side kept slipping down as the glue used in manufacture kept melting with the great weather we were having (ha!) at the time.
Was just a case of forcing it back up in the interim and then the dealer took it off and done the gluing process again. I'd have thought you'd need to use some sort of adhesive on the new ones but there are people on here better qualified than me in these matters so take that with a pinch of salt.
With regards to getting an instructor with a T5 ... Tommy Bee in Leeds seems to be the only one in the North. I had a few lessons with him the other week. His T5 is out of commission at the moment but he has a (sh*t) LML and a PX125 with upped jets that he says (and more importantly he says the local testing authorities accept it) qualifies for the A2 as it does over 60. There is already a thread on this in the everything else section.
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