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Post by Robjack on Apr 12, 2012 18:03:37 GMT
Just checking to see if the opposite happens when you actually type James Blunt.
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Post by Robjack on Mar 26, 2012 11:24:55 GMT
Hi and welcome.
You will probably have to take the petrol tank out to get access to the back of the latch. There could also be a tray further down that you will have to remove, but not sure with a VBB.
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Post by Robjack on Mar 13, 2012 22:27:52 GMT
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Post by Robjack on Mar 8, 2012 20:16:12 GMT
Eh-up Mark.
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Post by Robjack on Feb 26, 2012 21:25:23 GMT
Re: The SIP road pipe. After trying it, It's everything Nik says it is. Well impressed.
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Post by Robjack on Feb 14, 2012 7:05:46 GMT
Smartarses
;D
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Post by Robjack on Feb 13, 2012 19:14:22 GMT
Curious to know what it is that suggests it's a Spanish model Bryno.
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Post by Robjack on Feb 12, 2012 19:25:04 GMT
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Post by Robjack on Feb 6, 2012 11:29:19 GMT
Doesn't she realise that the world ends this year?
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Post by Robjack on Jan 28, 2012 22:10:19 GMT
No, not two off positions. One off and one on. The upright position is halfway between the two.
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Post by Robjack on Jan 27, 2012 16:21:54 GMT
I didn't realise they'd gone so bad Nik. My P2 is 12 years old, looks like I got one of the last good ones.
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Post by Robjack on Jan 26, 2012 20:49:14 GMT
Like Jack said, there's nothing wrong with them, but they are well overpriced. I'd want a lengthy warranty/service plan involved for that much cash. I've seen one in the flesh and it was spot on (quality wise - I'm no fan of Union Jack bodywork and lights and mirrors). Bit of a cheek entered into a custom show I thought!
There's nothing there that you couldn't do yourself for a lot less.
What about second hand? PX's are pretty bulletproof so it's unlikely there's anything seriously wrong with one a few years old. You can then turn it into whatever you want for considerably less dollar. There's usually plenty for sale in Scootering.
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Post by Robjack on Jan 24, 2012 18:46:15 GMT
Welcome. PX every time. I wouldn't touch those other things with a bargepole. The crappy chrome accessories (those wheeltrim things ) even the classic vietbodge signature of the yellow stand feet on some of them. I thought they'd used all them, they must have some left over. Do yourself a favour and get the PX.
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Post by Robjack on Jan 6, 2012 20:40:46 GMT
Daniel O'Donnell
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Post by Robjack on Jan 5, 2012 21:32:04 GMT
I've yet to come across an aftermarket exhaust for a standard P2 which outperforms the good old Sito +, until I bought the new SIP pipe - looks like a stock pipe but makes a shed load of difference. Sports pipes look good, but loose power into headwinds and up hills, just where you need to torque. The two pipes I mention are both designed for low down torque rather than flat out speed with very little torque, it being torque that helps you climb hills and fight headwinds. You know the 4th/3rd/4th/3rd/4th.... gear shuffle you do on hills? I don't need to, all the power is at the lower half of the rev range where it holds steady (Windy Hill on the M62 out of Lancashire excepted!) Every single sports/race pipe I've come across on a P2 (and P125 for that matter) has the same problem. Excellent on the flat, but given the slightest resistance and you're knackered - the other effect of shifting the power up the rev range is that my almost stock scooter will outsprint you from the lights unless you're running a kit with it. There are other things you can do - a high compression head helps slightly, and a Harry Barlow type stage 4 conversion helps even more - but I'd back my SIP piped stock 200 piece of crap over a PM piped stock 200 anyday. FTR - I've run Polini, PM, Mickek, Sterling and more over the years, and not one has stood up to either a Sito + or the SIP. This one Nik? www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/racing+exhaust+sip+road+for_24165000I've been toying with ditching the Simonini for a while and this seems right up my street. Presumably the up-jetting I have with the Simo (118) will do for this one, or do you reckon I will need to go higher?
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Post by Robjack on Dec 30, 2011 18:53:02 GMT
BTW, Re the block of wood, get one that lifts it enough so that the front wheel is just touching the floor. That way the centre stand will still be inside its tipping point and you will have enough room to work on it. It also helps if someone will hold the scoot by tipping it towards them raising one leg of he stand (no block of wood here) when removing the exhaust bolt that goes through the frame.
You will make things easier if you deflate the tyre before trying to remove this bolt.
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Post by Robjack on Dec 30, 2011 18:41:05 GMT
I also use the block of wood under the gearbox method, as long as the centre stand is still rooted it should be stable enough. It's important not to be afraid of it. Weigh up what you have to do, and work out the sequence that you have to do it in. Take your time and most importantly, use the right tools. If it came off, it will go back on again Remember that it's a Vespa, not the space shuttle, and they are dead easy to work on. Sometimes it's a bit fiddly but you will do it. How's that for positive thinking?
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Post by Robjack on Dec 9, 2011 21:26:43 GMT
Some interesting points Nik. Part of me wants to believe that a sizeable majority of scooterists want to see fresh new talent on stage at scooter events. But when it comes down to Saturday night scooterists with a belly full of ale, rather than sat in front of a screen, I can't help feeling that there's more of a "I know what I like and I like what I bloody well know" attitude that prevails. I saw Dirty Revolution at Builth and yes, they were decent and well received, but from what I could see, the majority just wanted to see The Small Fakers. (Different nights IIRC, but you know what I mean) Just my observation, I hope I'm wrong.
The scooter scene has evolved into what it has because, rightly or wrongly, that's what the people want (well I know what I mean). It's a shame, but if I was a thrusting young geetar sex god - I'm not young anymore - the scooter scene would be the last place I would be looking at to promote my band. It's also the last place I look when I want to hear good new music. I would like to, but it isn't there.
I only hope that promoters are brave enough to change it, and scooterists are open enough to encourage it.
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Post by Robjack on Dec 5, 2011 20:35:39 GMT
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Post by Robjack on Dec 1, 2011 19:46:17 GMT
Couldn't agree more Nik.
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Post by Robjack on Nov 29, 2011 15:36:58 GMT
What girl could resist a man who picks her up in a mobile toilet?
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Post by Robjack on Nov 28, 2011 22:14:19 GMT
It's called the exhaust stub and it's part of the cylinder, not the exhaust.
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Post by Robjack on Nov 28, 2011 20:15:20 GMT
Hello and welcome.
I think you are talking about the exhaust stub.
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Post by Robjack on Nov 20, 2011 19:13:31 GMT
Fully synthetic 2-stroke is probably the best oil you can put in it, but it wasn't actually designed to use that so a semi synthetic will work just as well. It comes down to personal choice and cost considerations.
You should mix at 2% and just put it in the tank then fill up with fuel. The agitating action of the flow of fuel should mix it all up. This is assuming that it's pre-mix of course and not auto lube.
It's a good idea to find out how much oil you require per fill up and get some small screw top jars in the glove box with the right amount of oil in for each time.
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Post by Robjack on Nov 18, 2011 23:41:48 GMT
Hey Dan,
Just like the tubeless tyres on a car, the air pressure is held in by the seal between the tyre and the rim - no tube. Tubeless wouldn't work with the standard split rims fitted to Vespas, the air would escape through the split. So any tubeless rim is one complete wheel that doesn't split in two, hence the supposed difficulty in fitting and removing the tyre.
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Post by Robjack on Nov 18, 2011 21:29:38 GMT
You want to be using SAE 30 in the gearbox. Just fill it until it laps out of the filler hole (scoot off the stand). Whatever 2 stroke oil you prefer for the fuel as well of course.
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Post by Robjack on Nov 10, 2011 18:43:49 GMT
Two easy solutions. Firstly get some of this www.avsco.co.uk/images/ultraseal.jpg in your tubes to prevent rapid deflation. I personally wouldn't go anywhere without it. Then get powdercoated rims to prevent rust. Shouldn't cost more than about £70 for the lot, which when taking into consideration the cost of tubeless rims and cost of fitting/removing tyres every few thousand miles, seems like a good deal.
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Post by Robjack on Nov 9, 2011 22:31:17 GMT
I believe it's a pig of a job to do yourself, specialist tyre fitting equipment required. Any particular reason why you want to go tubeless?
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Post by Robjack on Oct 31, 2011 20:22:23 GMT
More encouragement. I dropped the engine and took it all apart last winter and believe me, if I can do it, so can you. You do need the space though and more importantly, the right tools to do the job properly. Another pair of hands will be useful at times as well. I made my own manual using vespamaintenance.com/ and printed off the bits that I needed. I found it more helpful than the Haynes manual tbh.
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Post by Robjack on Oct 20, 2011 19:41:38 GMT
Aah I see, makes sense now. Cheers Nik.
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