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Post by paulwaite on Jul 23, 2021 13:23:05 GMT
I've put in a low mileage PX200E engine (so Buzz tole me) that I bought from Buzzsolomoto a couple of years ago. This engine is autolube, but has gone into a non autolube vespa. Put the engine in a few weeks ago and changed carb and box to non autolube and blanked off the oil tube with a paper gasket. So the new type 24/24E non autolube carb (ie with the hole plugged up to the left of the idle jet) has a 55/160 idle jet, main tube is BE3 - 160 and 118MJ.
The engine fires up with choke and have to keep choke on for quite a while. But after that, its slow and erratic to pick up revs, with the occasional backfire and slow to come down, normally this slow to come down would suggest its lean. In fact, I don't think you could ride it with the revs being so unpredictable. I've checked resistances on stator and they are within limits, put a previously tried CD unit on, fully earthed and a BE8 plug. Not yet checked timing, can't imagine that its out but its on my list.
I'm not usually beaten with 2 stroke engines (mainly lambrettas), but wondering if I have missed anything changing auto lube stuff, as all that is new to me.
Thanks
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Post by paulwaite on Sept 16, 2018 12:31:55 GMT
Anyway, I've bought the 2016 Malossi kit and 60 crank and will probably get round to fitting it before the end of the year. However, I will do road test before and after and post the results of max speed and revs. Hopefully it will show an improvement, otherwise I will have wasted time and money.
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Post by paulwaite on Sept 7, 2018 9:55:28 GMT
Hi Vespasco,
Thanks for the reply. Just to let you know, the casings have been matched and it may well do 70mph but need to check with GPS, rather than rely on speedo. However, I was just wondering if there was a significant improvement in upgrading to the 2016 Sport. If not I'll stay with current top end.
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Post by paulwaite on Sept 5, 2018 9:28:57 GMT
I've got the original Malossi 210 kit with an up jetted 24/24 carb, t5 4th gear and a BGM big box exhaust. It runs far better than the original 200 engine, with a smooth power curve, but soon runs out of steam. However, this winter, I will be replacing a worn cruciform, which means a fair bit of the engine will be stripped out. As such and considering that the new 2016 kit is less than £400, i did wonder if its worth the upgrade and would I benefit, say for a higher top end speed, (max and genuine 70mph) without also upgrading to an expansion type exhaust. But, I might consider a 26/26 carb and a 60 crank.
Thanks Paul
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Post by paulwaite on Sept 6, 2016 16:05:56 GMT
Ah, good tip pxguru, as I'm thinking I may have damaged pad, or kidding myself that i have one.
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Post by paulwaite on Apr 12, 2016 17:58:09 GMT
Must say that I did drive it in with a socket and it was tight. So I'd be surprised
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Post by paulwaite on Apr 11, 2016 17:29:28 GMT
Oh dear. Did change my clutch side oil seal, not that there seemed to be anything wrong with the one already there. But the one that I put back was an original Piaggio seal with the metal edge. Since then I have seen comments that in the Piaggio factory, these seals were driven in and cannot be done the same in my garage. Therefore, putting back an original seal, even with loctite, may still result in a leak.
One last thing to do is swop my carb and if this fails, I'll keep sniffing the gear box oil.
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Post by paulwaite on Apr 11, 2016 10:26:51 GMT
Thanks Henry. Did drain tank and put new fuel in, but still the same issue, see below that i have also pasted on the Scootererotica site.
Engine fires up easily and ticks over OK once the choke is pushed in, but will not rev out and has no power and appears to be running rich in the way of smoke and 4 stroking.
On the carb side and this is a new 24/24E Spaco carb, all jets are standard for this engine. Air mixture screw makes no difference and neither does jetting down the starter jet, or running with air filter off. I've also removed choke wire to make sure that the choke is fully in and fuel delivery is also OK. Suppose I could change carb, but last night, between 2 and 5am, I got to think about the piston and did I put it the right way up
On the electrics side, all stator resistances Ok and change of CDI unit, HT lead, cap and spark plug make no diffrence.
Now I'm sure that I put the piston the right way round, ie, arrow pointing to the exhaust port. But there again, I get distracted and things go on differently. So what are the symptons of the piston the wrong way up, are they as I have described.
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Post by paulwaite on Apr 2, 2016 10:04:26 GMT
This project is far down my list and it gets done when I can find time.
Its the Rally 200 engine that has appeared in other threads. But after a complete strip down, it's now OK and transplanted into a GS160. However, as part of the re-build, I replaced the unfix-able leaking Spaco carb with a new one from Beedspeed (& I see sime66 has had issues). Anyway, engine fired up quickly yesterday and did a few runs up and down our lane. Trouble is it four strokes immediately and will not rev out. Checked all jets and they are what the original spec shows. Air mixture screw is 1/2 turn out as i understand that it gets richer the more turns out. And from what I have read, the 55/160 starter jet controls the revs upto around 1/2 way.
Now in my Lambretta world, Jetex have a bad name, but I've never had an issue. But do the Spaco carbs have some inherent defect that I can put right?
One other issue is that the fuel in the tank may be 2 years old, but I cannot see that really being the problem in it 4 stroking!!!!!
Thanks
Paul
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Post by paulwaite on Feb 27, 2016 15:01:23 GMT
I've got a thing about crash helmets like women have with handbags and this one is tempting me, but I must resist, I must resist, i mu----.
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Post by paulwaite on Feb 27, 2016 7:08:30 GMT
Thanks chaps. Rewired to Sime's layout and all works great. No leakage and loud horns, so thanks
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Post by paulwaite on Feb 22, 2016 12:54:51 GMT
Thanks Sime and PXguru, points noted and appreciated. All the best Paul
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Post by paulwaite on Feb 22, 2016 7:21:26 GMT
Ever since this Rally build, something has caused my battery to leak at 0.18amps. After methodically going through the wiring to eliminate leaks, it looks like it comes down to how I may have connected my horn relay. (horns are twin 12v horns) My thoughts are that I should connect 86 on my relay to the yellow wire between the horn and switch. I think that because I have connected to the grey live feed, there may be a small current passing through the relay. (Note, I have isolated the grey wire from the brake switch to isolate any c**k up with those flimsy brake switches. Any comment would be gratefully accepted, see my wiring below which is 12v DC.
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Post by paulwaite on Feb 17, 2016 13:30:44 GMT
Feedback. Stator coils lightly ground down with Dremel and sanding hoop, till I had enough clearance so as not to make a grinding noise. Then taken to petrol station and air blasted. Re-fit and had spark, engine fired up and lights, so well pleased.
Well, first of all no lights on account that I had crossed my wires from the stator to the loom, despite checking colours twice before my mind told me something different.
This means another Vespa back on the road again.
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Post by paulwaite on Feb 17, 2016 13:25:44 GMT
sime66, I faced the same dilemma about the Go Kart nuts and like Henri, for £10.00 I'd rather be protected by the nuts that hold the F10 together.
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Post by paulwaite on Feb 9, 2016 17:09:40 GMT
Thanks Henri and no its not on one side.
I was nearly there until I burnt out my 300 Dremel, but new 4000 one turned up yesterday and I'll finish it on Friday and report back. I know what you mean about dust, but hopefully, my puff is strong enough to clear all debris.
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Post by paulwaite on Feb 9, 2016 13:11:27 GMT
Just bought a new LML stator to replace my old LML stator to fit into a PX, with a LML flywheel. However, the flywheel is catching so slightly on the pickup, the LT coil and one of the lighting coils. I sussed this out by painting the coils ends with tipex and putting back the flywheel and turning it. In reality, they are only catching by fractions of a mm but enough to drag on the flywheel and make a scraping noise.
Therefore, am I OK to grind back the effected metal ends of the coils catching the flywheel with my Dremel sander. If so, what sort of clearance do I need between my pickup and the flywheel, or does it only need to be a c**k hair.
Thanks
Paul
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Post by paulwaite on Jan 19, 2016 12:52:03 GMT
I have these rims on my lambrettas, but put in the longer studs as recommended. Then got a set for my Rally and found the same problem that you have. So after hunting around on the net, noted that quite a few had used K Nuts, which I then used. Because they fit a 10mm socket, the nut sinks into the recess and grips the whole of the thread and have a far better lock grip than nylock or the SIP nuts. See link for buying, plus I've also used K Nuts to secure my Vespa clutch, which negates grazed bleeding knuckles when trying anything with the original castle nut www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/nuts-bolts-washers/demon-tweeks-metric-aerospace-locknut-k-nut
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Post by paulwaite on Dec 12, 2015 16:00:26 GMT
Should I fit this Malossi top end to my Rally 200 engine that has starred in the "Heavy ball bearing when turning engine off." This engine is now in a Vespa 160GS, or in reality, a Spanish version of a GS, but with the GS headset, rather than the rectangular spanish one. Anyway, never really used this scooter and may sell next year, so just making sure everything is running OK. Now that I have solved the ball bearing sound, I'm going to check the rest of the bearings and replace the oil seals. However, I bought this Malossi 210 barrel and piston a few years ago that looks like it has been tuned even higher than the standard Malossi. And like a fool, I'm tempted to put this barrel and piston on this engine, without opening up the transfer ports on the case, without putting in a T5 fourth gear and using the original Rally cylinder head. So, the question is, with these limitations, will I see any benefit over the standard Rally 200 top end, or would it make it worse Original Rally barrel on left
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Post by paulwaite on Dec 12, 2015 15:46:49 GMT
Solved it. Tried the stethoscope thing, but no rattle on top end. Then I thought it may be a loose exhaust baffle, but not so. Therefore, took the engine out and found a badly built clutch in photo. The top plate is in the middle of the stack and one of the middle plates was on the top of the stack, but running loose. So when the engine turned off, this plate kept on spinning. As for top end, all rings and piston within tolerance. I could have checked the clutch without taking the engine out, but I'll split casings and replace the clutch side oil seal as I don't want to be taking the engine out again. Just need to stop myself putting back a Malossi top end, see other thread.
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Post by paulwaite on Dec 11, 2015 15:11:30 GMT
Well, got engine casings back on last week, whilst engine was still in the frame. Just put exhaust on this morning and fired the motor up. Unfortunately, the noise is still there, but does sound to be coming from the cylinder. So to eliminate things and avoid a full engine out strip, I'm thinking piston slab. So I'll take off the top end and piston and check it for bore clearance. However, how do you get the gudgeon pin out, because it looks like you need to drive it from the side of the piston that is close to the frame?
But just thinking aloud, I suppose I can leave the piston on the con rod, take off the rings and slide the barrel back on and check for bore clearance that way, but am I right?
Thanks
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Post by paulwaite on Dec 7, 2015 23:17:05 GMT
INA are good German bearings. MB sell INA small end bearings ie abstract from their site
"This German made bearing is ideal as an upgrade in most pistons. This is the only small end bearing where we have never seen a failure in over 20 years. MRB's preferred small end bearing in all applications Road or Race."
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Post by paulwaite on Nov 29, 2015 15:13:56 GMT
Out all day yesterday, so no chance to get back, but thanks for replies. The last photo Henri shows the selector rod. What I meant by the movement is that it pushes in horizontally and pulls out by up to 3mm, is this normal. In any event, I'll strip down and check cruciform, not that I know what is worn or not, but I can always google that. As for being heavy handed, I'm usually stripping or shearing things, even when using correct torque. But that's a special spanner for getting to the bretta exhaust nuts, or so that add told me, but it was bit of a lie. As for the barrel stub, all looks OK thread wise, so will fix back using Copper RTV Silicone or loctite. And Vespasco, the case does have a flat part machined in, so I will probably keep the coil spring there. As for the Rally, I haven't forgotten your suggestions about fuel etc from another thread, but at the moments I'm consumed with maintenance and what with the weather, haven't had chance to take it out since I stripped down carb. Garage as at today, all need tinkering to some extent. Gold series 2 is the one that I sheared the layshaft. Now replaced with a new shaft, but in rush, think that I have shimmed the gears too tight.
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Post by paulwaite on Nov 28, 2015 8:41:21 GMT
Think that I've found the source of the heavy metallic sound as the engine shuts down, but still a Vespa novice, so could just do with others thoughts, plus a couple of other questions before I put it together again. As I released the exhaust clam, the tubular exhaust flange came off as well, in otherwords, it was not screwed into the barrel. And the clanging noise it made when struck sounds just the same as when the engine stops. Anyway, glad I found this as it is an air leak to seal. But just to make sure, has anyone else had a loose one making the rattle sound. Anyway, whilst I'm at it I split the casing to see if there was anything else and this is the kickstart mechanism. Note the kickstatr spring that I put in at the time, but I understand that the Rally engine didn't need a coil spring as it had that sprung plate. However, the couil spring doesn't seem to be harming anything, so would you recommend keeping the coil spring in as an extra help to the sprung plate. Then looking at the small end, there is a big gap between the piuston and conrod. Now on a Lambretta, this is not an issue as the piston is fixed in the barrel and in general, no need to shim up. So I presume this will be the same for a Vespa Finally, the shaft that moves in and out to change the gears. I can pull and push this shaft and it has around 3mm of horizontal play; is this normal? Thanks Paul
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Post by paulwaite on Nov 21, 2015 14:40:08 GMT
Thanks Henri, wish you had spent more time on reading up on the above and saved me 3 sleepless nights, I'd call that selfish.
As to the shed, I'm overrun with Vespa and lambretta jobs to do. Just put my series 2 lambretta back to original, which included stripping original engine to make sure all was OK, replacing layshaft which had the wrong hub thread (18mm instead of 16mm) with a Li layshaft. Last job last weekend was to torque up rear hub nut. At around 60% of torque force, layshaft sheared. Frustrating, but lucky as well.
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Post by paulwaite on Nov 21, 2015 14:33:05 GMT
This is the same Rally200 engine that stars in the "Lightened Flywheel not firing spark," in this Technical section, but that problem is now solved, as it was not a problem in the end. But first some background on this engine. I bought around 2010 from someone who knows someone else type of buy. The purchaser told me that the only thing wrong was the kickstart slipped, so it would need sorting. Never stripped a Vespa engine, so bought Sausages great Video and split the engine and noted that there was no conventional coiled spring. Posted the thread below and learn't that the rally had the flat spring. Anyway, in the end, the coiled spring went in and engine into my GS scooterotica.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=29052Kick start still slipped, but found that the clutch had sheared the wood ruff key and the clutch was in a bad state, so replaced. Anyway, it was a lesson learn't on how vespa engines work, as they are not a direct comparison with Lambretta engines. Move on to the last 2 weeks and yesterday, fired up the engine with no problems, except for this heavy rattle when i turn off the engine. See video below. The sound, as the engine shuts down, is like a heavy ball bearing spinning around a metal can as the ball bearing slowly comes to a halt. Its hard to say where its coming from, but it could be the top end, or could it be that additional kick start spring, but i doubt it is the spring. This noise does not seem to be there when the engine is running. Clearly i will need to strip down, but any clues before I rip every living part out of the engine.
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Post by paulwaite on Nov 20, 2015 17:32:09 GMT
Oh well, home early this afternoon. So above flywheel on, plug out and no spark. then I realised that I had forgotten to turn on ignition. So second time a bright spark every time. So in a way, mystery solved. I too looked up Serie pro and it sort of led to a Beedspeed conversion for a Rally from Femsatronic to 12v Ducati. So that's probably what I've got and the stator and pickup must be unique to this flywheel, as it did not work on the standard PX one. Might contact Beedspeed to see if they can confirm all of this, just so that I know for future maintenance. Anyway, I'm well suited and thanks for sticking with me.
Now just got to find out what that sound is when I turn off the engine. Its like a ball bearing spinning around a tin can until the ball bearing runs out of momentum and slowly stops. But that will be another thread if I can't solve it first.
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Post by paulwaite on Nov 19, 2015 16:01:27 GMT
It is weird Henri, but I've managed to collect quite a few weird scooter parts along the way.
It might sound stupid, but I have not tried this flywheel on the rally engine, although it came with the rally engine. But as this rally engine sat on my garage floor, whilst re-building the Malossi engine, I thought I'll pinch this lightened flywheel for the Malossi and get crisper acceleration. But later found that there was no spark.
Anyway, tomorrow or over the weekend, I will fit it back onto the rally engine and see if there is a spark, you never know!!!
But thanks for all the feedback.
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Post by paulwaite on Nov 19, 2015 15:05:25 GMT
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Post by paulwaite on Nov 18, 2015 12:51:22 GMT
no zig-zag=points flywheel , b*ll*cks, though this engine was too cheap, but thanks for putting me out of my misery Henri
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