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Post by ianmartin40 on Sept 13, 2016 20:04:04 GMT
never seen that one before but looks great, I`m going to give it a go just to see who waves back! I just indicate before the junction while slowing down and if I am stopped at junction then do a life saver just before making the turn, I think the scoots with no indicators have cleaner lines and look better than later models with them
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Post by ianmartin40 on Sept 11, 2016 16:29:06 GMT
I did this job recently but followed the sausage DVD and put bearing in freezer and heated cases with blow lamp then chapped bearing into place using suitable drift and once it is fully home the sound of the hammer on the drift changed, then to double check fit circlip and make sure circlip can rotate in slot easily. I`m sure there will be plenty of help on this site, the folk on this forum are really helpful.
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Post by ianmartin40 on Aug 21, 2016 21:14:43 GMT
Cheers for the tip H if they are all out enjoying themselves every night I will end up envious! sounds great. I first got into vespa years ago by going there on holiday and everyone had one and the city streets were littered with them in various states. back then it was all P range and 50 special for the younger folk.
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Post by ianmartin40 on Aug 19, 2016 23:14:33 GMT
Thanks Bryno That site is a good one for proper quality kit so I will order from them although the post is expensive, but nice to find proper parts.
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Post by ianmartin40 on Aug 16, 2016 15:05:07 GMT
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Post by ianmartin40 on Aug 14, 2016 17:18:51 GMT
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Post by ianmartin40 on Aug 4, 2016 22:26:45 GMT
cheers for the tip will make sure it is done as this time it is getting a painted by a spray painter
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Post by ianmartin40 on Jul 26, 2016 19:34:17 GMT
Thanks for the info Henri Got it out I wanted to remove pedal in order to remove all paint from frame to bare metal it before it goes for proper painting, I had previously painted this scoot myself and also did the filler work, when I bought this scoot years ago as a box of bits the brake pedal was attached to frame and I could not remove it then but wanted it done properly this time round as a spray painter criticised my handiwork!
I can`t believe I spelt Brake wrong on the title!
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Post by ianmartin40 on Jul 26, 2016 14:58:20 GMT
Hi Guys As part of my ongoing re vamp of my vespa GL I have pretty much finished stripping the body, however I cannot seem to figure out what holds the brake pedal on and would like to remove it for frame painting etc, how does it come off?
All help appreciated
Ian
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Post by ianmartin40 on Jul 22, 2016 16:03:07 GMT
my std px200 usually does around 55-60mpg depending on use
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Post by ianmartin40 on Jul 17, 2016 20:17:57 GMT
I previously had a simonini exhaust on my otherwise stock px200, the performance was improved but I thought it was quite loud and changed back to stock box exhaust which did slow it down for sure but sounds less noisey, personal choice really
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Post by ianmartin40 on Jul 11, 2016 21:40:08 GMT
Hi All I am just back from a holiday in Italy, there is a town near next to Verona Airport called Villafranca, and here there is a great Vespa display at the Museo Nicolis. this display started last week and is on for a couple of months, the rest of the museum is good also but the Vespa display is well worth a look.
Ian
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Post by ianmartin40 on Jun 23, 2016 11:52:10 GMT
Thanks for the inputs There is no grinding and the tightness is even for the full revolution, I have removed the crank and checked sealing faces and all good, so put back in and it is the same but as guru suggested tight because new, seals and bearings are all piaggio so am going to continue rebuild when I have a chance and and go with it.
Cheers Ian
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Post by ianmartin40 on Jun 22, 2016 10:02:55 GMT
Hi Guys I am putting back together my polini kitted px motor and find than when I fit clutch an start to tighten it my crank becomes stiff to turn, I know I am also now turning the primary drive but all is ok until I start to tighten the clutch nut and I am not even close to 28ft/lbs yet. I am following the Sauasage DVD rebuild guide it is genuine bearings and seals etc new crank/clutch seal inserted with metal ring facing crank but reusing existing crank as no play in it.
All help appreciated
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Post by ianmartin40 on Jun 11, 2016 15:43:13 GMT
I sometimes us a solvent to clean the oily exhaust dirt from back wheel then something soapy but some guys will be horrified to find I dust/polish mine more than wash it as I try not to go out in the rain!
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Post by ianmartin40 on Jun 9, 2016 22:04:17 GMT
no no at least continue with the run in procedure as planned Clutch easy to check so worth a quick look, even if you drop gear oil, back wheel off and remove clutch cover wont take long
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Post by ianmartin40 on Jun 2, 2016 20:53:18 GMT
I have used this engine for around 1500 miles, and apart from the big heat seize it was much quicker than a standard px200, like I said after the seize I upjetted the carb, and the pick up was a bit wooly but it still ran ok once up the revs!
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Post by ianmartin40 on May 31, 2016 15:32:37 GMT
Not only did my old base gasket block quite a lot of the ports on the barrel but it also appears to have not even covered around the outside of them, am I missing something? Now I cannot understand how the motor ran at all, there were no signs of any fancy sealant having been used so how did it seal? was it drawing air all the time? confused
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Post by ianmartin40 on May 31, 2016 9:34:27 GMT
that was the same pic twice!
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Post by ianmartin40 on May 31, 2016 9:28:16 GMT
same pic just different angle. I was thinking about running this with the si 20mm carb, previously it was the si 24mm as I don't need full potential from this motor, I also ran a std exhaust as it is in a 1961 frame
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Post by ianmartin40 on May 31, 2016 9:21:34 GMT
been tampered with but a bit less brutal than the rest of the casing, nearly smooth!
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Post by ianmartin40 on May 30, 2016 19:54:18 GMT
I was quite concerned about the hole but am pleased everyone else thinks it is no big deal. I had not heard of JB Weld before but have just bought some so while waiting for delivery I can clean up cases etc.
cheers for the inputs
Ian
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Post by ianmartin40 on May 30, 2016 9:20:02 GMT
from the inside
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Post by ianmartin40 on May 30, 2016 9:09:55 GMT
Hi guys this is me shining a torch through through the holes in my casing created by over zealous porting work (wasn`t me). I found the hole had previously been patched up with what looks like araldite and want to know what is the best way to repair this? Alloy weld? some sort of resin? araldite? I should add this is my first engine strip so finding horrors like this came as a bit of a shock Reason for rebuild is engine not running right and had a heat sieze engine was running a si 24mm carb with big jets and drilled filter but I used a std px125 non cat exhaust to try and tone the engine down and keep the std look as it is in a classic frame with old brakes! and I don't need speed but a bit extra power is nice. all help appreciated
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Post by ianmartin40 on May 30, 2016 8:59:30 GMT
PX guru you are correct about clutch nut it came loose and gave me loads of clutch problems last year.
It is a px 125motor with polini piston barrel and head and yes there has been work done on the casings, maybe a little too much work on the casings, check out my next post "repair a hole in the casing"
cheers
Ian
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Post by ianmartin40 on May 29, 2016 20:02:05 GMT
Cheers for that Henry I checked crank into clutch side bearing and it was tight, I had to chap it back out! so looks like it is going back in
Ian
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Post by ianmartin40 on May 29, 2016 12:45:12 GMT
My worry was that the work on the crank had been carried out by an amateur tuner who was a bit rough, I thought the idea of gas flowing was not to have any rough surfaces and any removed metal areas would then be polished. the conrod has a small amount of sideways play in it but if crank secured there is no movement up/down of conrod. the bearings and seals all look genuine or good quality items and it is a polini kit so I don't think the person doing the work on this engine was doing it on the cheap. I have done just over a thousand miles on this engine and the piston/barrel clearances are tight and the rings look to be in good order and not worn, however the base gasket was a std item and covered quite a lot of the opened out ports which I thought a bit odd.
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Post by ianmartin40 on May 28, 2016 10:17:33 GMT
this is from an engine I bought from gumtree some years ago, it is very fast but had a heat sieze while using at speed, the engine nipped up only when I eased off from nearly full throttle, unsure of speed as speedo is old and was off the clock. I had no idea of the history of the motor but it has a polini kit on it and was running a 24mm carb from a px200 with bigger jets, I made it even richer after sieze to keep using it but have decided to strip and make sure no air leaks etc. there has been a lot of material removed from crank, is this normal? I have seen some indian lml 5 port cranks which look similar and just as rough. if you cannot open the link I will try to sort other pictures advice appreciated
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Post by ianmartin40 on May 15, 2016 21:53:37 GMT
My vespa GL has a frame pre fix VLA1T and the px motor fitted straight in, not sue what the differences are between your GL model and mine It seems crazy to prove you have fitted a smaller engine when the old 150 is probably slower than a px 125 motor!
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Post by ianmartin40 on May 15, 2016 20:07:48 GMT
I have a GL150 reg as a 125 and am using a px motor (kitted) the scoot had never been reg in UK when I first registered scoot after rebuild I just insured it on frame number got MOT applied for road tax and log book and had to have it vosa inspected but nobody ever asked for proof it was a 125, I put the correct engine number on log book application. It is registered as 1961 vespa the correct frame and engine numbers are present on log book. I insure it through footman james on a classic policy and they know it is a 125 motor which is newer than the 150 it should have. other insurance companies can be a bit sticky about a 150 having the wrong engine but there are loads of vespas out there with the wrong engine!
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