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Post by RWS74 on Aug 14, 2017 7:14:35 GMT
Wocha Rightside up, like you I'm a biker gone scooterist with my first PX. Last July I bought a 2014 model with just 288 miles on clock. As it hadn't been used much for two years I adjusted & lubed all the cables as clutch & gear change were way out. I cleaned the air filter & checked plug etc & rode around running my engine in until due for first service. I decided to take it to the shop for the first time and ended up paying £125 for them to say "You've done a really nice job on that, we didn't have to adjust anything." They didn't do an oil change which I thought was odd as book said it's part of first service but they said Piaggio say it isn't... Like you say they are generally reliable providing you take care of it, oil changes are cheap as chip, at about £2:50 per change! & there's plenty of threads on here where I've learnt how to adjust PX gear cables/clutch etc. Oh & for the price of my service you could buy a Sip 2.0 exhaust
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Post by RWS74 on Aug 7, 2017 1:27:40 GMT
I get what you mean now mate, a half decent reasonably priced 200 engine seems as rare as rocking horse poo.
As far as I can tell the "bigger 166/177" kits aren't as bolt on and play as the PIAGGIO 150 kit which just needs re jetting and no new crank etc. I guess it depends on what you're after....
I can't recommend the 150/sip 2 combination enough. As an experienced biker on my first scooter I can now leave cars at stand off, maintain 50-60mph with ease, and do 90+MPG.
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Post by RWS74 on Aug 7, 2017 1:15:18 GMT
Wocha Bezza, first step is to remove the handlebar cover by undoing the four screws under the headset.
Then gently lift up and unclip the electric connector & speedo cable.
Sound like the throttle cable has snapped or has been dismantled but not assembled correctly, so you should be able to see this from inspection then reconnect or replace if needs be.
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Post by RWS74 on Aug 6, 2017 18:17:56 GMT
RWS74, I meant comparing the price of a P200 engine to almost anything for a classic car. We picked up a good running 1725cc engine for the Mrs Alpine, it was £50. I got a 1300cc crossflow engine for £130. I can't get my head round why the P200 and T5 engines are so much money for what's effectively for so little. Unless I stumble across one of these engines, I've got no real choice but to stick to kitted 125s. No worries.
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Post by RWS74 on Aug 5, 2017 15:08:51 GMT
Cheers chaps, with that kind of money going into 1 scoot engine, I've got no choice but to stick to kitted 125s. £700 quid could go a fair way into the Anglia, which I hate comparing it to... For £150 you can get a 150 kit... bolt on and play with just a couple of jets to match 150 carb.. I found it made a significant improvement on 125 from Pulling away/acceleration & hills etc.
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Post by RWS74 on Jul 28, 2017 19:32:22 GMT
Cheers RWS74 - I've had a go from top down, thank you. I think it's ok, as in, when I depress the lever the brakes are applied, and when I let go, the lever returns and the brake pads disengage. So that seems like a decent starting point. The lever travels a fair bit further than before - still air in the system maybe? I'll take it for a cautious spin later, once the effin rain has eased off. Cheers Most welcome, still worth removing reservoir cap, filling & and covering with a plastic bag and cable tying brake leaver over night.... then tomorrow a quick bleed & carry on. 😉
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Post by RWS74 on Jul 28, 2017 16:18:09 GMT
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Post by RWS74 on Jul 28, 2017 15:09:14 GMT
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Post by RWS74 on Jul 28, 2017 15:04:35 GMT
If you have some time follow my tip above in the post mate. Saves the Agro of Tourette's and wasted time 😉
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Post by RWS74 on Jul 28, 2017 15:02:56 GMT
I'd mount it first, fill it and be patient as it can take a while due to the narrow bore I think. Once air is out it's a swift proceedure.
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Post by RWS74 on Jul 28, 2017 15:01:28 GMT
Hi Zoltan, it's best to let gravity do its thing mate as even thought it can be done from bottom up there is a risk of damaging the internals of the reservoir apparently.
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Post by RWS74 on Jul 24, 2017 10:41:57 GMT
Hi Hattster, did you fit a Zeus CDI? if so any improvement on what you had before?
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Post by RWS74 on Jul 20, 2017 13:48:07 GMT
Ta mate, clutch lever free play has maintained the same 2mm or so without need for adjustment for nearly a year now.
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Post by RWS74 on Jul 19, 2017 22:28:32 GMT
Wocha folks, I've been monitoring my 2014 PX150/Sip 2 since I bought it as I was initially curious about fuel economy after riding motorbikes for 20 years.
Recently I've noticed that on a couple of times my fuel tank has done a mixture of commuting through central London & some 30 minute Motorway riding at 55mph ish & still has an impressive 90-94mpg even though I'm accelerating harder and running it at top speed....
Seems the harder I ride it the better the fuel economy? Result.
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Post by RWS74 on Jul 16, 2017 19:21:56 GMT
Had my PX 1 year today and covered 8,000 miles, commuting & scooter runs. I went off to the Forester's SC Sunday Best Scooter Fest with my London Invader Mates. Cracking day indeed.
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Post by RWS74 on Jul 15, 2017 7:56:22 GMT
I had the same issues mate & did all the above too. I've never got it flush like the original but it works fine.
After seeing another post somewhere on here I also applied some silicon sealant to the stub & inside the Sip 2 & let it dry overnight before starting the engine to give a good seal & that has held for last few months.
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Post by RWS74 on Jul 10, 2017 19:39:54 GMT
Hi Mate, I had a similar thing this winter on my 16 plate.
I know you said clutch ok but....
It turned out to be the clutch arm spring was covered in winter road dirt that replicated pulling the clutch lever in while kicking the kick start...some WD40/A Scrub & Dry Lube sorted it...
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Post by RWS74 on Jul 2, 2017 16:19:55 GMT
And sometimes the hub nut can be fully tightened and scoot still wandering all over the road! It's wonderful having a hub bearing go a week before the mot is due. Good job I've got eff all else to do.😀 Ouch, sort of good timing then?
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Post by RWS74 on Jun 30, 2017 21:18:17 GMT
Hi SWM, sometimes narrow stainless lines can take a while to bleed if filled from empty.
Like Ironsloth say's sometimes you need to leave it a while...
On my Triumph I had this and found that filling the reservoir & leaving the reservoir cap off (but covered loosely with a plastic bag to stop dust and crap getting in)then pulling in the brake lever & securing with a bungee or cable tie to to the handle for a few hours the air would rise and then I could bleed brakes. I used to use aftermarket bleed nipples containing a one way valve which was effective. Not sure if available for our calipers.
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Post by RWS74 on Jun 17, 2017 17:25:22 GMT
All depends on the year & autolube etc mate. Stock MJ FOR 2011-2016 Autolube is 96MJ
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Post by RWS74 on Jun 9, 2017 5:55:17 GMT
Failing that how's your rear shock? My 2014 PX used to sit with the both wheels touching the ground when on center stand, when I replaced it for a Carbone rear shock not only did it transform the ride it lifted the front wheel off the ground as per normal spec from what I can work out in pictures...
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Post by RWS74 on May 29, 2017 15:45:50 GMT
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Post by RWS74 on May 17, 2017 21:12:47 GMT
Could be doing up the bolt too tight. Are you putting the the speedo cable right in before doing the bolt up? and then just nipping it not so tight? Could well be too tight mate. I've been making sure cable is well seated then slide rubber seal and plate down & then ensure I tighten it tight, proper tight.... I have a spare worm gear which I'll try and tomorrow and just tighten bolt not so tight! It's got to be something as simple as that as everything else looks so pristine and new and no sign of wear? Ta muchly.
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Post by RWS74 on May 17, 2017 7:56:11 GMT
Once you've got the headshell containing the speedo off and can see the cable, disconnect the cable from the wheel hub. Pull the inner cable out from the top and then push the inner cable back into the outer but from the bottom. You can then pull the outer up from the top. This will leave the inner in place inside the forks. You then pass your new outer cable down over the inner which guides it back through the little hole in the forks, it might just need a bit of wiggling. Once it's in place lubricate the new inner install it in the outer, replace your headshell top after installing new cable into the speedo and bob's your uncle. Hope that makes sense. Ta Phatanglo, I did this on mine and it worked a treat... alas I'm having issues with the worm gear as I've gone through 3?? I replaced cable & worm gear and lived both with high quality grease. When I placed work gear in drive I gently rotated wheel back and drive fitted snugly. I then fitted the metal grommet and slid the rubber seal & plate over the cable and fed it into the drive while gently rotating wheel back to ensure it was engaged before securing with bolt. Then I tested it and the speedo lasted one week then the worm gear ground to nothing again? I removed the hub and there was no damage to drive gear or debris etc. I replaced worm gear with another well lubed one and it worked fine when I rode it however as I wheeled it back wards to park I could feel clicking in the front hub & when I rode again the speedo stopped working & the clicking stopped. ? Worm gear worm again? What could cause this? As cable, worm gear & hub are well lubed with grease. Many thanks. RWS
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Post by RWS74 on May 13, 2017 22:17:40 GMT
Hi Stevie, sounds like you're going the right way with your main Jetting.
Just out of interest how did you differentiate between the two drops in power & decide that one is too rich and one is possible lack of fuel?
I wouldn't worry too much re the leak. I had a similar episode with mine that seamed to resolve itself without interference... I think there's an overflow near there which can cause such stains etc.
Keep up the good work
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Post by RWS74 on May 13, 2017 18:28:30 GMT
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Post by RWS74 on May 8, 2017 20:53:26 GMT
Boom! 92MPG! 30 mile a day commute across north west/central London & not missing a beat.
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Post by RWS74 on May 3, 2017 9:20:40 GMT
cheers RWS74, still have a 104 and 106 to try,have to wait for my next day off work though. quick chop question- better to kill ignition at WOT then pull clutch or pull clutch whilst killing ignition with the throttle closed ? is this being pedantic or is it crucial or am i missing a limb ? Hi Stevie, Re Plug Chop.... no idea mate, so long as you don't fall off in the process then I reckon you're doing the right thing!
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Post by RWS74 on Apr 26, 2017 22:13:40 GMT
change of heart/fortune,i'm jetting it myself.will call to chiselspeed only if i am not happy with my own efforts.did not bother with a slide as i read too many conflicting reports. i gather from your reply i'm way too rich already with the 108 ? Hi Steve, I tried 114, 110 & 108 and all were too rich and four stoked. I settled on a 102 and mine runs really well pulling from stationary to 60mphish with no hesitation or four-stroking. I looked into getting a slide & even though the Haynes manual lists a different slide number for our 2011-2016 PX 125 & 150 the PIAGGIO parts site at dealers shows the same part number so I didn't change it.
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Post by RWS74 on Apr 9, 2017 12:27:37 GMT
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