|
Post by zoltan007 on Jul 1, 2021 13:42:27 GMT
Much appreciated vespa clone- cheers 👍👍👍
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on Jun 30, 2021 14:04:05 GMT
Me neither, and I don't know how concerned I should be (if at all). I was hoping someone might advise that this was not unusual for genuine Vespa Douglas models....
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on Jun 29, 2021 12:49:19 GMT
Hi all In the process of buying a scooter and have been sent the attached image of the frame number. It matches the number in the registration document. Anyone seen a number like this? Its a Vespa Douglas 152L2 I'm told Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on May 23, 2021 23:00:13 GMT
Cheers Adrian - I followed your advice and was careful enough - all sorted 👍👍
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on May 23, 2021 16:38:55 GMT
Sorry - wasn't sure I'd used the linked image right. Think it should be accessible now. I was just wondering if there was a tip to getting under that glass beyond prising off the rim with a screwdriver.
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on May 23, 2021 12:04:06 GMT
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on Jul 28, 2017 15:06:57 GMT
Cheers RWS74 - I've had a go from top down, thank you. I think it's ok, as in, when I depress the lever the brakes are applied, and when I let go, the lever returns and the brake pads disengage. So that seems like a decent starting point. The lever travels a fair bit further than before - still air in the system maybe? I'll take it for a cautious spin later, once the effin rain has eased off. Cheers
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on Jul 28, 2017 9:30:00 GMT
Everywhere I look on t'internet suggests that the system should be bled/refilled from the top down. But occasionally I see the suggestion to bleed/refill from the bleeder valve up into the reservoir, and that doing so minimises air in the system. That sounds reasonable so why is the top down method much more commonly advised? I need to fit a new caliper today and the reservoir and line is completely empty of fluid. I'm going to try the bottom up method of refilling. Any tips for an utter newbie are most welcome. Should I fill the system before mounting the caliper on the fork or should I mount it first?
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on Mar 23, 2016 16:27:40 GMT
I regret buying SIP tubeless rims. Like others have noted, I found the amount of thread available on which to screw the nuts was way too little. I have destroyed three hubs now as a result; two rear ones and most recently, a front one. I only meant to check my bike was roadworthy as it's been in the garage for a few months so set my wrench to 20Nm and went to tighten the front wheel rim nuts (the SIP tubular shaped ones that come with the Nordlok washers). 5 minutes later I've sheared two of the studs (which is what happened to the rear ones last year).
As far as I know, SIP haven't acknowledged this issue (I may be wrong) nor have they committed to a torque setting for those nuts (again, might be wrong).
I've heard that LML hubs have longer studs - can anyone confirm?
As for replacing the studs - I had to take my (third) rear hub to a local engineers who charged me £40 to remove the existing ones. 'Kin nightmare all round.
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on May 24, 2015 12:07:14 GMT
I'd got it into my head that you have to really blast air into them to get a seal but as you say, they're designed not to go over the shoulder. I'm gonna goop em good
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on May 24, 2015 11:30:56 GMT
I love this place.
Ok - if I went DR, would/should I have any port-matching or chamferring done to get full benefit?
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on May 23, 2015 15:43:22 GMT
Makes a lot of sense when you put it like that! :-D cheers
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on May 23, 2015 15:39:29 GMT
Cheers again henri. I'm running a sip road 2.0 as it goes. I was put off getting a kit as I figured I might need upgrades elsewhere (crank for example).I'm happy with performance as is but seeing as I need to change top end anyway I thought I'd just go for a straight 150 swap for 125. So 5-port sounds like what I should get (I assumed wrongly that they were for lmls only). Get me India on line 1
Cheers again henri
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on May 23, 2015 12:59:47 GMT
I'm on tubeless (SIP rims) and it only occurred to me the other day that I wouldn't know how to re inflate a tubeless tire if it went fully flat. Could you use an ordinary foot pump or would you need one of those air jets you get in a garage, in order to get enough air in very quickly to make the seal? I ask because I've got a bottle of goop (was going to put it in my tubed spare) and reading this thread makes me want to put some in my tubeless tires. But if I have to pull the valve out, would I be able to re inflate with a foot pump?
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on May 23, 2015 12:36:38 GMT
Hi folks - got a 2001 px125 which has a bit of scoring in the barrel after a seize some time ago (due to faulty oil supply) Faced with so many options (rebores, over sizing, kits) I've decided to have top end replaced with standard 150 set up (barrel, piston and cylinder head). Question is, should I be looking at 5-port or 3-port? I'm a relative noob to all this (been riding about 2 years). Hope this isn't too daft a question. Cheers as ever for your advice
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on Apr 12, 2015 22:44:43 GMT
Cheers both. I've gone and done it anyway. So it's going to be awesome and that's that!
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on Apr 12, 2015 13:54:13 GMT
I feel slightly guilty about posting yet another thread about exhausts... I'm seconds away from clicking 'Buy' on one of these www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/racing+exhaust+sip+road+20+_24166300 and am hoping that someone will shout any words of warning. I ride a standard '01 px 125 which recently had a sito + fitted and I was perfectly happy with it performance-wise. But it was old and had a couple of holes and looked like a lump so I'm looking to replace. I've read mostly good things about the SIP Road 2.0 (think I prefer the box type to the 'sporty' extension pipe version) but not read anything specifically about the chrome finished variety which I've got my heart set on. Anyone had any first, second or even third hand experience..? p.s. with the sito+ fitted I was running on a 96 main jet - absolutely fine. Upjet for SIP Road 2.0..?
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on Apr 1, 2015 19:21:02 GMT
And (please forgive my ignorance) is it safe to ride it as it is - just for 20 minutes or so to get it over to the place where the new jets are (hopefully)
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on Mar 31, 2015 21:09:37 GMT
Cheers Willow - not upjetted yet, haven't actually ridden it since I changed over. It's replaced a sito+; will I definitely need to upjet do you think?
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on Mar 29, 2015 15:36:20 GMT
Haha! I see.
The picture looks right. Kicks out a load of smoke - should have filled it with drain cleaner before i put it on perhaps. Oh well...
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on Mar 29, 2015 11:22:56 GMT
Having fitted it yesterday, I can say for certain it's bloody impractical!!! Not looking forward to changing a wheel in future... Vespasco - what is a green turtle? (£5 on hold...)
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on Mar 28, 2015 9:25:41 GMT
Hi folks - thought I'd ask this question here rather than start a new thread. I've just acquired this pipe for my PX125. Anyone tell me what it is?
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on Mar 11, 2015 21:20:35 GMT
My favourite Fred Perry polo shrunk in the tumble drier - pale blue with red/navy/white/navy/red collar and pocket trim. Cost me £60...
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on Mar 11, 2015 21:15:44 GMT
Hello again. Mickymidas - I keep hearing the same story (though I'm probably listening out for it now if you know what I mean). I'm going to stick with the SIP rims and have decided to get (another) new hub. The 'genuine' rear hub on BeedSpeed is £59 which seems more expensive than anywhere else - anyone know why? Also, there's a note on their site that says, "Please note : Our latest batch have come through without the Piaggio symbol on the hub body. Instead they have a Piaggio Part Makers logo 'KU'" To be honest, for £59 I'd want the Piaggio symbol.
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on Feb 26, 2015 10:40:35 GMT
Henri - thanks again. Can you tell me a bit more about the gloop in tyre thing - I'm fairly inexperienced in such matters.
I like the sound of the lml hubs with longer bolts - I'll look into that for sure. Cheers
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on Feb 25, 2015 23:24:56 GMT
It was me that put them on I'm sad to say. I've overtightened in the past so I was perhaps too careful not to do so on this occasion. SIP have advised 20Nm torque so I'll be doing that in future. As it happens, I changed the wheel roadside and put on a split rim with standard nuts and tightened good and proper. Lo and behold, one of the threads on this new hub sheared in two! As you say, I was very lucky. Thanks for suggesting Twisted Rods - I'll give them a go. I was using the recommended nord-lock washers (also from SIP) Out of interest, has anyone using these SIP rims decided to use longer bolts on the hub? The thickness of the SIP tubeless means you only get a few mm of thread to put the nuts on to. I changed to tubeless for safety reasons but now I'm wondering if I should go back to split rims
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on Feb 25, 2015 20:15:02 GMT
Hi folks - sorry if this is in wrong area. I lost all 5 nuts on my rear wheel the other day while riding. It was a brand new wheel hub and I'm wondering if it was dodgy (anyone else had similar problem?) Anyway - what I'm posting about now is getting hold of some replacement hex nuts; SIP don't have any in stock and I'm wondering if anyone knows where else I might be able to buy some. Cheers these are the ones I mean: www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/nut+hexagonal+for+sip+rim_81050200
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on Aug 22, 2014 19:23:14 GMT
Damn! I was going to use petrol to clean but wasn't sure so didn't bother in the end. But the oil is moving much better anyway. Went for a spin today for the first time in a couple of weeks - was great.
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on Aug 22, 2014 8:10:58 GMT
I see. I used lots of force to no avail, but I didn't use THE force. I will in future. Thank you henri-won-kenobi <bows head solemnly>
|
|
|
Post by zoltan007 on Aug 21, 2014 18:41:46 GMT
Maybe it's one of those urban myth things gazpx! Fuel tank back in, oil visibly being drawn into carburettor, running a bit oily for now as added oil to the fuel (running rich?) but otherwise it's job done. Putting the fuel tank back was a fugging nightmare! It wasn't the tap bit (that was fine), it was poking the fuel line back into the carb. Why does nowhere say that you have to remove the back wheel to poke the line in??? I was pushing that bugger for ages from inside the frame expecting to see it poke through into the carb, not realising that it was dangling around inside the frame! Is it possible to replace it without taking the wheel off? Chuffed I've done it though - not really done anything like it before being new to this. Thanks again for the help.
|
|