|
Post by Smallframe on May 17, 2006 12:59:50 GMT
IMHO in a word "no" B-race pipe seems to be getting good reports on standard setups, but is more than a mid-price pipe.
before changing your pipe consider checking the squishband on your cylinder head (1.2-1.3 is perfect) is a cheap starting point. if its a leccy start pxtake off the ring gear from theflywheel and also get the likes of beedspeed to lighten ur flywheel.
approx 12quid for lightening and a few quid for an engineer to skim ur head if needed - now thats a cheaper starting point.
Are your casing transfers matched to the kit already ?
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on May 15, 2006 20:42:32 GMT
www.lambrettafinder.comAbout £140 will get you a complete ET3 motor off this guy and if you meet him at prearranged destinations, delivery from Belgique will cost you nowt. You'll spend a hell of a lot more money trying to get a PK50 motor to go faster.
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on May 12, 2006 20:54:48 GMT
Lets go out and shoot the horrible little b*st**ds and their parents.
If your wires have all been cut and not ripped out then electrical crimps from the likes of maplins will link them all back together.
really sorry to hear yor news - keep the faith
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on May 11, 2006 17:10:58 GMT
Oven cleaner and rockwool, followed by emery paper and oil. then shine it up with autosol. Wouldn't do any harm to lap it in with some honing paste either
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on May 2, 2006 8:18:09 GMT
if you have the malossi 136 with direct manifold on the barrel rather than using the casing port for induction, thenpower output is in a different category. I run a rotary vlave setup at the mo' but am building up a new malossi motorwith very similar spec to "bagsys" (see readers scooters). My smallframe ain't no slouch but i know reed valve is gonna give it a nice boost.
If you go down the direct manifold route, then you don't need to all the inlet milling thats needed for a reed to function properly. But you will still need to match your crankcase transfer ports to those on the new barrel. You'll need a minimum of a 24 or 25 phbl carb and a fullcircle crank (worb 5's). refer to "setup.small-frame.de" for some idea of the varying setups.
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on May 16, 2006 20:50:26 GMT
Zmartwiony Maniak proba rozen farba.
Sorry, as you can see my polish isn't too hot, hope you manage to translate this ok
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on May 16, 2006 16:42:26 GMT
The best exhaust paint « Thread Started on Apr 14, 2005, 4:15pm »
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Don't pay out for the crappy VHT exhaust paint and its extortionate prices - use Plastikote BBQ spray £5 a can and abolutely fantastic. exhausts get hot - but so do cast iron barbecues - this stuff is great Link to Post - Back to Top Logged
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on May 16, 2006 16:39:27 GMT
Paint it with "Paint"
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Apr 21, 2006 11:06:09 GMT
Step 1: Drill out the holes in the frame that the engine bolt goes through to the diameter of the large frame engine bolt.
Step 2: Cut off the engine side panel (50 specials), if you don't the engine won't fit.
Step 3: Inside the 50 special engine bay, next to where the carb manifold goes through, there is a piece of metal that has to be flattened out, do that or you won't have clearance for the cylinder head.
Step 4: Now in the engine bay you can more or less see the shape of the small frame motor cylinder. In that hole drill 3 hole side by side, first for the throttle cable, second for the electrics, thrid for the fuel pipe. you can't put the fuel pipe through the hole where the carb manifold used to be as it will not gravity feed if you do.
Step 5: The rear shocker has to be made more upright so that it doesn't hit off the clutch casing and so as to raise the angle of the engine so that there is clearance for the carb box lid. This is easily done by taking flat bar of tempered steel about 4mm thick and 25mm wide. it has to be about 75mm long. once you have it cut to length, drill two holes in it, the centre of each one being around 15mm from the edge of the bar at either end. bolt this to the top of you shocker and then bolt it into the frame. thats the shocker done.
Step 6: Carefully measure and mark the main engine mount for cutting, you have to cut between 8 and 9mm off either end of the main mount.
Step 7: Slot your engine in and connect it up.
thats it!! as simple as that. good luck!!
these are rough instructions for a 50 special as pk specs will be slightly different .
UR handling will be crap u know ! so tweak a smallframe motor- they are well more fun
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on May 22, 2006 15:50:20 GMT
Does it have a fuel pump? Turn off petrol tap (if tis got one) remove fuel line from the carb and trun fuel on again to check flow. Check any inline filters and carb banjo filter ( if they have them ).
sounds like could be air in the fuel line (or pump) or crud as mentioned earlier, but in all honesty T & G's are a complete mystery to me . good luck - its gotta be something real simple.
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Apr 19, 2006 16:33:21 GMT
your pinking could be down to incorrect ignition timing as kits do require the stator plate moving by a few degrees
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Apr 19, 2006 16:31:09 GMT
is the question "do i want to help you bring your smallframe over from Greece?" if you pay for my flight - I'll happily carry it thru customs in my suitcase
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Apr 19, 2006 11:31:15 GMT
finishing off a gp, then flogging it to fund a new smallframe with a pocket rocket motor
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Apr 18, 2006 19:49:10 GMT
wish i had a german scooterist livin next door to me , with a lot of spare tim on his hands ;D
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Apr 18, 2006 19:03:45 GMT
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Apr 18, 2006 19:01:46 GMT
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Mar 31, 2006 11:39:46 GMT
Sounds like a worn carb, or an air leak on the manifold. I assume its a standard carb. Have you tried turning the mixture screw to richen up th mixture. Does this only happen wghen engine at full running temperature. Try a few trial runs with different air screw settings as that was the cure on my brothers et3.
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Apr 23, 2006 19:11:39 GMT
have the sliding dog springs been uprated - Taffspeeds are meant to be good
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Mar 28, 2006 9:31:37 GMT
I think (& use) a SIP reinforced 4 plate kit, which ain't failed me yet.
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Mar 20, 2006 21:38:43 GMT
should be an B8 plug.
You don't say what carb you are running. But based on your last statement it sounds like your pilot jet may be the wrong size,or too rich a slide, or air screw misadjusted.
I assume ur standard cases will be using 19mm carb and ur pilot should be around size 38, with a main of around 90-98. let me know as much as you can about ur engine/carb setup cos its a process of elimination really.
timing should be 17-18 degrees btdc. I ran a pm tuned smallframe motor once that had similar probs to yours and the solution to my quandry was to ditch the points and fit electronic ignition, but that doesn;t mean urs will be the same.
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Mar 20, 2006 14:54:12 GMT
Coils only usually breakdown when they are warm and yours is a cold start problem.
What grade of plug do you have in? Are the carb and manifold both tightened sufficiently ? Do you have a strong blue spark ? Is plug electrode wet aftr a few failed kickstarts?
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Mar 20, 2006 15:04:58 GMT
If its just the fibreglass shell (no sip fitting kit bought) I'd drill 3 holes and use Dzu's fasteners like they use on drag car panels (these are like bonnet pins, but they sit flush with the panel and are opened with a coin or flat blade srewdriver .
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Mar 20, 2006 21:51:46 GMT
if the kickstart wont even budge with the clutch pulled in then its time to split ur casings and examine the kickstart return spring hasn't sheared or become dislodged, or the kickstart quadrant isn't funked. On the input shaft there is a kickstart idler gear and idler spring that move in and out when the kickstart whn the kikstart is depressed, check these out also.
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Mar 2, 2006 16:20:54 GMT
when engine is off can you select any gears ?
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Feb 7, 2006 21:06:51 GMT
ooops , doesn't sound too promising then. but I'd still give Mike phoenix scooters a bell.
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Feb 7, 2006 20:12:26 GMT
Well if the spines bent backwards in a straight line (not leaning left or right) then it is may be salvaged.
Stand frame pointing upwards and hang a plumb line from the exact centre of the spine and see if it meets withthe dead centre of seat fixing bolts.
if so, then Mike phoenix in Denton manchester has a hydraulic ram that could push the spine forward.
contact the vintage vespa association or someone you know with a straight 152L2 to get a measurement taken from the outer edge of the upper steering bearing track straight over to the centre of the seat fixing bolts and then you can compare the degree of movement and advise the frames rectifier accordingly.
Personally, if this does work I would thing about plating the stress zone where the metal has stretched underneath.
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Feb 6, 2006 18:45:31 GMT
when you say bent on the frame, do you mean the central spine is bent or just the leggies/runners.
Mike Phoenix in Manchester has a jig for straightening lammy frames, so I;d ring him for advice on your vespa frame straightening
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Jan 29, 2006 9:50:40 GMT
Just ensure the gearbox oil is changed after the first thou has been clocked up.
& go over all the nuts and bolt you can think of to make sure they are all torqued up correctly (wheel rims.cylinder head and exhaust are the ones that would get my priority. Also adjust any excessively stretched cables. Piaggio dealer prob won't do more than this.
is scoot still covered under warranty ? If no I'd do all the work yourself.
the cylinder bore is probably nicely glazed by now, so I'd just ride the beast , as any intial breaking in was probably completed in the original owners thrashing of the motor .
IMHO
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Jan 25, 2006 20:41:17 GMT
iS THE PX NEW ? OR oLD ? COS ITS A DIFFERENT ANSWER OR POSSIBILITY, DEPENDING ON THE AGE
|
|
|
Post by Smallframe on Jan 2, 2006 18:18:12 GMT
could be fuel starvation, check fuel pipe, filter, float bowl, cleanliness of mainjet and emulsion tube. The scoot sounds like everything on the pilot jet side of things eg ; starting and slow throttle is fine basically from closed to one quarter throttle, then it all goes tits up. ie from one quarter its getting too much or not enough fuel thus upsetting the fuel air ratio. Ensure all your jets and carb box are clean and secure aswell as the airfilter.
Its all specualtion imho of course
|
|