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Post by Smallframe on Sept 12, 2006 17:02:01 GMT
sec second thought for the day " grooves in the tangs are catching on individual plates causing the snatching ie: files the grooves flat and eliminate the catching ! sounds logical depnding on how much meat needs removing .
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Post by Smallframe on Sept 12, 2006 16:58:52 GMT
Correct me if i'm wrong andy but wouldn't filing the tangs worsen the problem allowing the clutch plates to attain more free lateral movement in the basket
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Post by Smallframe on Sept 11, 2006 16:42:21 GMT
Weekly blasts of wd40 or gt85 should do the trick - or as an alternative thought why not put the chrome and mirrors around your bathroom as thts were chrome and mirrors belong (just a joke guys - before you all get on my case)
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Post by Smallframe on Sept 11, 2006 16:29:31 GMT
try "dogleg" levers which kick in half way down a la dogs leg
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Post by Smallframe on Sept 6, 2006 18:22:36 GMT
have you set the squish on cylinder head correctly?
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Post by Smallframe on Sept 9, 2006 10:48:30 GMT
I assume you are goin for a kitted up P200, you'll still need a T5 4th with it. Is it an 8% increase or decrease in the primary drive. the reason i ask is that most kits like to rev .
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Post by Smallframe on Sept 7, 2006 16:29:11 GMT
with the strobe setup you can just let it rev about twice the tickover speed and blip the throttle a couple of times to check there is no deviation in your two markings that you have on the flywheel and casings. You can try the static route with a t.d.c gauge
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Post by Smallframe on Sept 7, 2006 16:34:22 GMT
Navs are great wet weather treads,
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Post by Smallframe on Sept 12, 2006 17:04:33 GMT
butcher a px 200 fuel sender unit - but you'll need to run a battery
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Post by Smallframe on Jul 29, 2006 14:32:43 GMT
Synthesis 2 rock oil is only 6.50 a litre at my local m/bike shop and i was amazed to hear some people are paying over a tenner for it in other parts of the country. ;D
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Post by Smallframe on Jul 10, 2006 17:31:50 GMT
1000ml to a litre
100ml per litre is ten %
50ml per litre is 5%
I'd just buy a little 2% measuring jug and forget the maths.
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Post by Smallframe on Jul 9, 2006 8:44:33 GMT
2% is correct, get yourself a measuring jug from the scooter shop
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Post by Smallframe on Jul 9, 2006 8:54:50 GMT
go into the "whats new" section on www.scooterhelp.com an trawl the archives. there's loads of handy info relating to vespa sprints, to feed your mind with mechanical know how.
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Post by Smallframe on Jul 8, 2006 17:21:06 GMT
Restrictors are usually in the outlet for the exhaust or the inlet side of things and i don't think you will have any probs removing them. Why not speak to yuor local dealer though who will b a lot more specific than me
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Post by Smallframe on Jul 8, 2006 17:26:49 GMT
bog standard p2 should easy hit 70+ . If it doesn't then it was built on a friday ;D
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Post by Smallframe on Jul 8, 2006 17:17:50 GMT
scooterpress.rubbermag.com/0602/gt60.htmlI like these jacqui, never been on one but with the vespa pedigree its bound to be smooth and reliable. I found the above writeup but i'm sure there are more detailed reviews on the net. Wish i was in Canada now as its grey and wet here.
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Post by Smallframe on Jul 8, 2006 17:08:56 GMT
I ran 120 main with hp4 and sip pipe. When you say "rich" are you referring to the plug colour after doing a chop test or just a general feel the bike. All engines run differently so you need to ensure you go for the right mainjet to suit your motor and not one that is suggested as a benchmark. spitback is perfectly normal for rotary induction motors and an overlarge jet could possibly increase levels of spitback.
Give a good full throttle run andf chop test the plug. if its dark, try a 120, if thats dark try a 118 - you are aiming for a nice chocolate brown electrode.
PS
if your motor starts pinking at full throttle with the Hp4 flywheel then you may have to retard your timing by a degree.
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Post by Smallframe on Jun 30, 2006 13:43:29 GMT
they should all spring back based on the spring in the throttle body on the carb. probs will be either a really old dry cable, a kink/split in the outer where it enters the carb box, but the most likely cause is a dried out throttle rod particularly were it passes thru the headset. weather beaten, crud filled and over zealous jet washing can all be contributing factors to removing the grease to aid smooth operation. i did some work on a scooter that had been leaned against a wall cos there wasnt a stand and the throttle rod was bent, stopping a smooth return.
the routing of the cable on my carb takes a mad twisting route and still returns, courtesy of mountain bike gear cable.
if all else fails and you can't be arsed changing the cable, then doubling up on return springs may do the job
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Post by Smallframe on Jun 30, 2006 9:09:03 GMT
remove fuel banjo off carb and check rate of flow, just another thought !
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Post by Smallframe on Jun 30, 2006 9:05:55 GMT
I know you say its not ignition, but have you tried a spare cdi unit on it. ?
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Post by Smallframe on Jun 15, 2006 8:30:46 GMT
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Post by Smallframe on Jun 15, 2006 8:37:28 GMT
A drop in revs is your clutch dragging slightly when engaging a gear. Try taking up slack with the cable adjuster. Changes in engine tone when clutch is pulled in and out are perfectly normal. knocking noises ar not acceptable tho'
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Post by Smallframe on Jun 21, 2006 14:23:51 GMT
if your hubs torqued up and wheel rims nice and tight thebn your layshaft bearing has play in it. Don't replace it till you have to ( as in mot fail)
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Post by Smallframe on Jun 21, 2006 14:19:07 GMT
you are allowed minimal play in the rear and it will still pass an mot. "instability and large frame vespa" are two things that i think go together really well ;D.
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Post by Smallframe on Jun 7, 2006 18:30:50 GMT
find your tdc with a dial guage, or the stop dead method (which old jeff says is a lot more precise). mark the casing and then line up a degree wheel or use a dial guage to mark the degrees required before tdc (retarding is the safer option). I use a strobe to get it spot on. Sorry if this ounds a bit vague but your lack of power could be any number of reasons and you need to say how your carb is setup, whether the kit is new or not, squish band checked, proper head to suit the kit etc , etc. Srobing is a piece of p*sh once you have your casings marked up accordingly.
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Post by Smallframe on Jun 3, 2006 18:32:18 GMT
yuo have a short between ur pos n neg wires going to the starter, you'll have to source the route of wiring from the push button down to the starter motor and locate the offending problem - could be wiring , could be at the switch or on the starter motor connections
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Post by Smallframe on Jun 1, 2006 17:29:18 GMT
Can you bleed hydraulic brake lines, tim.
headset top off disconnect speedo " hydro line from caliper undo and remove lower headstock bolt lift up and tilt back headstock undo lock ring on top of foks drop fork, bolt o new muddy and build up up again.
probably left something out as I'm cooking dinner at the same time as titting about on PC
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Post by Smallframe on May 27, 2006 12:35:36 GMT
yes 4 can go into casings as they all share the same casing. As for ratios, its only the primary drive that differs- you'd need a 2.54 or 2.56 with a 125 n upwards engine.
If your after a fast torquey kit to do some distance work on , that can take a good thrashing then go for the polini. Or if you want a screamer (revvy kit) with more power but less lifespan then go for the malossi. I run a polini 130 and have clocked up a few thousand miles on it now with very little (as in no) maintenance. But I am building up a malossi motor with short ratio gearbox and reed valve setup. The malossi is a lot more sensitive in setup to get optimum power. You must match your casings for these kits as going for the plug n play option is a waster of time. When you have worked out what you need/ want buy it all in one go from SIP - cos they sell everything you could possiblty need for a smallframe.
As for forks/ brakes go for either lammy or pkxl with a disc set up.
smallframes.com & scooterhelp are both good sights for helping you with modifications.
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Post by Smallframe on May 26, 2006 8:55:41 GMT
Does the stutter only happen at full throttle and when your in 4th?
If it happens after three quarter throttle in all the gears then it could be as simple as an over rich mainjet, sh*tty filter . Try cleaning your carb first tho as it really is a process of elimintion.
I'd check the whole carb over, all the jets are clean, choke return mechanism seats all the way home, fuel bango and float bowl in good clean functioning order, condition of exhaust, stator plate set correctly and on and on till problem rectified.
Without seeing or riding the scoot they are just the first things I'd check
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Post by Smallframe on May 25, 2006 16:20:00 GMT
How long did u soak the plates for
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