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Post by RWS74 on Sept 30, 2018 8:58:08 GMT
So after 3 weeks use with some cold 05:00 starts I can honestly say the Battery & Iridium combination is a working really well. It starts very quickly without hesitation on the button.
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Post by RWS74 on Sept 9, 2018 22:25:23 GMT
Today I've mostly been...getting more bad news, my Brother-in-law, who lives near London, went into hospital during the week, they say he has bone cancer and has also had undiagnosed MS, for a long time,he had his arm amputated yesterday and while they were operating, his organs started to shut down.He is in a coma and also has Septis and Pneumonia. For the above reason, I'm having a time out, away from the forum. Sorry if I've let anyone down on the info front,hope you understand. Jim. Best wishes to you Jim during such a sad time. Thanks for all your support with our scooters, rest assured you have all our support when you need it. All the best, RWS
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Post by RWS74 on Sept 9, 2018 21:21:22 GMT
As my battery was Kaput after constant draining and charging over 6 months or so I invested in a new one... Recommended by mates who use them on big touring bikes and say they are bullet proof. They are sealed AGM (Absorption Glass Mat). I also fitted an iridium plug BR8HIX which I always preferred on my bikes. The difference is impressive, starts quicker than I can ever remember. Fingers crossed it’s a good upgrade. Will report back in the winter when after an old grey whistle test.
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Post by RWS74 on Aug 25, 2018 11:12:39 GMT
Great thread with loads of helpful info I’ll b checking my needle tonight as I’ve had starting issues tho main reason for my reply is “how the hell did u manage to upload photos been trying for days” (😬😬😭😭😖😖) cheers chaps happy sun chasing Wocha Shovel, I use an iPhone and tap the picture icons in the picture. All the best, RWS
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Post by RWS74 on Aug 22, 2018 5:23:08 GMT
I'm the same as mij, always turn the fuel tap off. Mind you the last time I heat seized, I was flat out doing 65mph.... Left 2 sets of skid marks...... Ta Gents, I’m fastidious about turning the fuel off having riden old carb bikes for 25 years, so much so it’s second nature.
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Post by RWS74 on Aug 22, 2018 5:23:04 GMT
I'm the same as mij, always turn the fuel tap off. Mind you the last time I heat seized, I was flat out doing 65mph.... Left 2 sets of skid marks...... Ta Gents, I’m fastidious about turning the fuel off having riden old carb bikes for 25 years, so much so it’s second nature.
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Post by RWS74 on Aug 21, 2018 6:08:32 GMT
RWS74, glad you've got it starting fine 👍.Did you have a look at your piston rings, after that hard seize? Mij☺ Hi Mij, indeed I did, I believe it was a soft seize though as it resolved straight away, the rings, barrel and piston were not worn and no sign of abrasions etc.
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Post by RWS74 on Aug 20, 2018 20:11:45 GMT
RWS74, looks like you had a heat seize due to the cylinder head being loose or warped, I would do as shaunbond advised to the cylinder head ( I use 1200 wet&dry),you don't need to go crazy doing this, your just trying to lap the head flat, if you wish you can use a marker pen on the cylinder head mating surface and when it disappears it should be flat, the reason to do this in a figure of eight is to try and stop you taking more from one side of the head than the other and to keep it level. If it was my scoot, I'd take the barrel off and inspect the piston and rings. especially as it's harder to start now, the rings may be smeared with piston alloy, sticking them in the ring grooves. Remember to tighten the head bolts diagonally hand tight first then gradually take to the correct torque still going diagonally ( see Haynes manual if your unsure 😉). Good luck. Mij☺ Ello Mij, it turns out the starting issue was a worn float valve flooding the bike.... which caused the battery to go flat trying to start it hence needing to kick start all the time. I replaced float valve today and it started on the button first time & has continued to do so all day. ✌🏽
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Post by RWS74 on Aug 20, 2018 20:11:35 GMT
RWS74, looks like you had a heat seize due to the cylinder head being loose or warped, I would do as shaunbond advised to the cylinder head ( I use 1200 wet&dry),you don't need to go crazy doing this, your just trying to lap the head flat, if you wish you can use a marker pen on the cylinder head mating surface and when it disappears it should be flat, the reason to do this in a figure of eight is to try and stop you taking more from one side of the head than the other and to keep it level. If it was my scoot, I'd take the barrel off and inspect the piston and rings. especially as it's harder to start now, the rings may be smeared with piston alloy, sticking them in the ring grooves. Remember to tighten the head bolts diagonally hand tight first then gradually take to the correct torque still going diagonally ( see Haynes manual if your unsure 😉). Good luck. Mij☺ Ello Mij, it turns out the starting issue was a worn float valve flooding the bike.... which caused the battery to go flat trying to start it hence needing to kick start all the time. I replaced float valve today and it started on the button first time & has continued to do so all day. ✌🏽
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Post by RWS74 on Aug 20, 2018 14:17:47 GMT
Ello Folks, I decided to replace the float valve to see if that would resolve not being able to start it with electric start for months.... just £2 lighter I removed float assembly and found old valve was indeed worn. After cleaning and reassembling my Scoot started first time on the electric start and rode like a dream for 10 miles and I stopped a couple of times then started again on the button without hesitation.
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Post by RWS74 on Aug 15, 2018 9:04:45 GMT
How bizarre? It started on second kick! I’ll still give carb a clean though. Ta H.
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Post by RWS74 on Aug 15, 2018 7:15:19 GMT
Ta Henri, I did wonder about flooding, but fuel tap off.
It just seemed strange that once started and a 25 mile trip home it wouldn’t kick start after stopping at the shops? So I can’t see how it was flooded then unless some sort of Carb wear such as float height etc? I’m
The only thing different about yesterday was that I filled up the oil reservoir which although it wasn’t showing with a bubble in the sight glass I put just shy of a liter bottle of my usual brand in.
I’ll strip and clean carb assembly today and replace plug too then go from there.
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Post by RWS74 on Aug 14, 2018 22:58:52 GMT
Evening folks,
It's been a while and I apologise for this being my first post in ages. This morning I had a great 25 mile ride to work and parked up in the garage, then this evening at 22:00 I tried starting it with the electric starter which has been a bit hit and miss recently.... then I kicked it over which normally works first time but it didnt start.... I tried this for a while but when kicking over it didn't fire up and engage..... the plug was a little wet but not excessive and there was a spark. I cleaned it up and cleaned the HT lead then tried again but no luck with either the electric starter or kick over....Kick starter is solid on the crack and not loose, there feels good resistance/compression and no difference to usual.
Then I tried Bump starting it... it took a while but eventually it started and rode seamlessly home. I stopped at a shop but when I tried starting it it woudn't start on starter or kick start... but would start with a bump start..... Any ideas please folks?
All the best,
RWS
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Post by RWS74 on Mar 7, 2018 17:46:02 GMT
Well I managed to skim both surfaces as suggested gents.
Starter still fine post decent battery charge & condition and now I can do that everyday at work which should help.
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Post by RWS74 on Mar 7, 2018 17:05:06 GMT
Ouch, I’m know your pain mate.
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Post by RWS74 on Mar 7, 2018 7:52:28 GMT
Sounds like it was a heat seize. Do you keep anything under the seat? As for the starter, mine got lazy after a few years of abuse, so I took it off, blanked the hole, and replaced the flywheel and cover for a non electric start one. If you do that, keep your kickstart tightened, as nowadays they seem to be crap, the thread strips easily.... Whocha Ironsloth, I finally managed to attach an Oxford hella socket to the spare wheel cover so I can charge & condition the battery using the optimists ones we use at work on job bikes. It started fine after a good charge all day which is good & I’ll keep an eye on the kick bolt too.
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Post by RWS74 on Mar 5, 2018 21:38:43 GMT
Thank you gents. I’ll take care of it on Wednesday.
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Post by RWS74 on Mar 5, 2018 5:40:07 GMT
Ta Iron sloth, under seat is clear but I weigh 111 kg which may squash seat a tad & I have got a leg shield blanket which could restrict air perhaps? That being said it was early am and outside Temp was 2 Degrees.
Strange thing was when I removed the Cylinder cover I found a cooked & crispy disposable examination glove in the outside of the cylinder? Not that it was oils cause it to over heat though?
Ps. what grade wet & dry please?
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Post by RWS74 on Mar 4, 2018 21:37:10 GMT
One more thing:
Earlier this week I was riding on the A406 at 46mph and the Vespa suddenly locked the rear wheel and cut out so I pulled in the clutch and pulled into the left left and gently released the clutch and it started and I continued my journey without issue & later rode 25 miles home without issue.
It hasn’t started well with electric start button since then & I have been using the kick start.... Could it be starter motor,
Could with this be because of the coked piston as it doesn’t look over coked to me.
Or something else.
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Post by RWS74 on Mar 4, 2018 20:16:24 GMT
Thank you gents, I’ll give it a go later in the week.
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Post by RWS74 on Mar 4, 2018 19:22:34 GMT
Hello folks, I went about de-coking Signora Vespa today, what are your thoughts on skiming the head cover? As you can see it appears that there is some minor leakage top & bottom but could this be normal? No gasket fitted as none from stock. Would a gasket help? (Or a few if only for a few for extra 0.001BHP) Should I get it skimmed & if so who does skimming? Many thanks, RWS
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Post by RWS74 on Dec 5, 2017 13:12:52 GMT
Ta Gents,
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Post by RWS74 on Nov 20, 2017 10:29:35 GMT
Ello folks, I thought I’d inspect my rear brakes for wear & maintenance. My PX 125 Disc is 3 years old & I’ve done around 11,000 miles since I bought it last July with 288 miles on the clock. They work really well and I’ve kept them adjusted. So the question is.... how long is a piece of string AKA how long do rear drum pads last? As you can see from the photo I took after I cleaned the unit, there is plenty of wear left on them and there was no glazing etc. Looks like the one’s I bought will be in my tool box for quite some time before I use them.
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Post by RWS74 on Sept 22, 2017 20:03:09 GMT
Apologies for delay replying Henri, I checked plug and refitted and asthma continued... I thus replaced plug and no more asthma...
Ta.
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Post by RWS74 on Sept 22, 2017 19:59:45 GMT
Hi Polmac, I’ve not heard of similar occurrences before. There are other causes of overheating which some of the guys will have better experience of including incorrect spark plug/carb set up/timing etc.
Hope you get it resolved.
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Post by RWS74 on Sept 18, 2017 21:29:10 GMT
Px150 2014 Sip 2 Drilled AF ZEUS CDI Oil change Saturday & new .6 gap plug two weeks ago.
Evening all, my PX150 started making a strange sound when starting from cold the last few days.
It sounds like an asthmatic cough on the last compression if it fails to start straight away.
After that it starts fine and runs tip top.... I also noticed the kick start has been harder to start engine from cold too which is unusual as usually 1st time, the only thing of note is I tightened the clutch cable to spec 2mm or so on Saturday but I can't see how that could effect it?
Any ideas folks or have my hearing Aids suddenly improved and I now hear a normal failed start?
Ta Muchly,
RWS
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Post by RWS74 on Sept 1, 2017 18:08:41 GMT
T'was £85 all in from Reedspeed & took about 20 minutes to fit in a car park. I rode about 50 miles around and through central London today filtering stationary traffic & holding 50ish MPH with no trouble at all. Can't recommend it enough.
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Post by RWS74 on Sept 1, 2017 9:14:27 GMT
Well I decided to get a Zeus CDI, it arrived for collection and I fitted it in the Home-base car park this morning and just rode to work in a mixture of urban 20/30mph residential & 50mph North Circular. Wow! What a massive transformation! The gears are more useable without having to change up early doing low speed maneuvers etc and it was a dream on North Circ & much more responsive.
Definitely a good investment.
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Post by RWS74 on Aug 16, 2017 20:51:27 GMT
.....so I went with the PIAGGIO recommended AGIP brand & had what was either oil flow issues or slight soft seize at higher speed etc, tried Castrol race synthetic & same problem. Tried Putolin Classic & same problem. Tried Putolin Scooter plus synthetic and my Scoot runs like a dream for last 4 liters of the stuff. £14 a bottle and worth every penny.
2014 PX125 (150 cylinder & sip 2.0)
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Post by RWS74 on Aug 14, 2017 7:26:41 GMT
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3pdn182o4knisv8/Photo%2016-07-2017%2C%2009%2004%2009.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xgx1rqfnxdtqt6a/Photo%2010-08-2017%2C%2019%2025%2007.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mb3qdnouf782w84/Photo%2010-08-2017%2C%2019%2025%2016.jpg?dl=0
I fancied a makeover from Martini Racing stripes to Trojan Reggae/Ska.
Also found some great alternative stickers from Voodoo Streetwear on Ebay.
Not convinced my flatscreen works with the new colours... What d'yer reckon? so thinking of going plain black or white...
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