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Post by colin4255 on Jun 30, 2011 14:22:13 GMT
Plug should be a kind of mid to dark chocolate brown colour ideally. Not too light. Having it run richer while running in is not a huge issue, but you should get it sorted. Depends on what sort of barrell/piston you have. Is it standard? Is it a big bore kit? Do you have a sports exhaust? Is the carb standard?
Main jets are dirt cheap - couple of quid. The size is stamped on them. 110 - 112 - 114 etc. Standard PX125 is I think 108 or 110. Whatever you jet is now, maybe try one a couple of sizes smaller - say if its a 114, try fitting a 112. BUT they may also have screwed up the fuel mixture. There is a screw at the back of the carb. Turning it in will weaken the mixture, and out will richen it. This is a nightmarre to get right if you do not knw what you are doing. Typically, the mixture screw is usually set between 1 3/4 and 3 turns out depending on what jet etc you have.
Might be an idea to take it back to them and get them to set it up a little better for you. Even running it slightly richer while running in wouldn't mean the plug fouling up.
I am running in a PX125 witgh a DR180 kit on it and I am simply using a 3% petroil mix instead of 2%, but the plug isn't fouling up and the thing runs fine
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Post by colin4255 on Jun 30, 2011 14:14:37 GMT
If you go to the autopaint pro website link above, they list all the piaggio codes, names etc so you will find it easily
724 Bianco is indeed a colour they list in the drop down on their index. Their paint is very good and service is quick. They actually mix the paint to the original colour and put it in aerosol form for you.
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Post by colin4255 on Jun 10, 2011 9:21:27 GMT
They are generally not hard to fit. Once clamp where the exhaust goes into the head and depending in what type of exhaust, one or two other bolts holding it to the frame.
I am no expert, but I am not sure you will gain anything much by fitting a performanc exhaust to a bog standard engine and if they are anything like cars, you will probably invalidate its warranty by messing about with it (You said it was brand new)
Usually, people tend to fit performance exhausts at the same time as upgrading the barrel/piston/cycl head by fitting an engine kit to increase the engine size. Then at same time, they will also alter the carburrettor jetting to maximise performance.
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Post by colin4255 on Jun 9, 2011 12:32:19 GMT
Thanks Joey. I guessed it must have something to do with how we built up the clutch. Will get it out over weekend and take a look AND try to be more careful!!
Thanks Colin
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Post by colin4255 on Jun 8, 2011 13:07:10 GMT
Now I have a re-built engine, new cush drive (complete with layshaft and gears), new cruciform, main individual gears shimmed correctly, new clutch (re-built with new springs, new spring cups, new cork plates (soaked overnight in oil first)) , new clutch plunger arm, new brass plunger - new everything clutch related in fact.
The damm things lurches quite violently when setting off no matter how slowly you let out the lever. It reaches a point where it just goes from being in to being out, so to speak.
I should say the clutch is properly adjusted. About 1/8inch or 3mm play at lever. With clucth held fully home you can move kickstart slowly downwards and there is no movement in flyhwheel, and the 'slack' in the lutch actuation arm has been properly taken up on the cable. And yes, the clutch is not overly adjusted either. Cable inner is fine and not sticking at all.
The rear hub is also OK from what I can see, no play anywhere and the backplate is tight and properly fastened on. I just cannot think what can be causing this, the usual suspect things have all bee replaced.
Its less of an issue when its done 20 or 30 miles and warmed up, but is still there. Much worse when cold.
Now I have been told that while the clutch basket and associated bits with six springs and cups appear to be set centrally, this is not entirely the case and there are some holes I need to line up in the basket and back plate with the gear on it? Failing to do this will mean the clutch springs tip slightly and this is what causes the lurching?? Not sure if any of you have heard this, but this issue has me beaten. BTW this is not a COSA clutch, but an earlier 21tooth 6 spring non cosa clutch. Scooter is a PX125.
Anyone got any ideas of things to look at that I have not yet tried??
Thanks
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Post by colin4255 on Jun 8, 2011 12:55:27 GMT
OK, I found a company that can supply all standard Vespa paint code colours in acrylic liquid, aerosol or water based paints. They are:- www.autopaint-pro.co.uk/piaggio-paint-82-c.aspYou can find your original piaggio or vespa paint from the page above. Hope this helps others who are looking for touch up or spray paint.
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Post by colin4255 on May 31, 2011 19:01:04 GMT
I have an 2003 Vespa PX 125. Its a kind of pale mint green. The description of the colour is Baccart 336. Does anyone know where in the UK, I can get hold of earosol paint this colour. I need to do some work on partsn of the paint near and under the seat, but no luck so far finding anything that matches the colour. Attachments:
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Post by colin4255 on May 30, 2011 16:15:55 GMT
OK guys. Figured it out. The kickstart idle gear was worn. On the old engine that had very little compression it didn't seem to matter, but the newly one with much more compresssion was just a step too far for the worn idel gear, which is why it wouldn't always catch properly. Replaced that and it kicks over fine now. And we have it running. I borrowed another 24mm carb and bolted it on, the thing struck up third kick. Now I guess its time to run the thing in. The clucth BTW was fine. I actually completely disconnected the clutch cable and it still wouldn't kick over, but now the new idle gear is fitted it all seems OK.
Of course we will only know once I have ridden it and guess what. Since I put it back together it has not stopped chucking it down with rain!!
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Post by colin4255 on May 24, 2011 9:05:28 GMT
Thanks for this. Piston is the right way up - it had an arrow on it so even I could figure that out. I didn't replace the crank seals - that was something I should have done I guess.
I will have to remove the clutch and look at it again. Something is definitely wrong there. I am certain the various parts are OK, but obviously we have done something wrong putting it back.
Its a big help to know if the clutch cable is slack, that it should kick over and won't affect anything, because now I know we won't cure it just by adjusting things. Thanks for your help. Much appreciated.
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Post by colin4255 on May 23, 2011 20:08:42 GMT
You may laugh, but I am new to this scootering lark. I have a PX125 that has a DR180 kit fitted, no auto-lube with a 24mm carb. Not long ago, the clutch came apart while on a ride out to Skegness. The large circlip at the back of the clutch basket came off and luckily I was only trying to kick-start the thing when it happened.
Decided to take the motor out and strip it down just in case any bits had ended up in the engine. Luckily not, but I discovered the barrel had a huge score in it from a gudgeon pin circlip that had come out (some time ago by the looks of it) and it explains the loss of top end power.
Anyway. Bought a new 180 DR kit thinking that when we fitted a new clutch, it should all more or less work the same way. I had however two issues I have not been able to resolve.
1. The thing won;t start. The carb was fine before the clutch stopped working but now it either floods (out of overflow), or after re-cleaning and carefully putting it back together - just does not seem to want to deliver fuel to the engine at all. I bolted on another 24mm dellorto carb tonight probably completely wrongly jetted and we did manage to get it to run, albeit very badly. So it points to an issue with my carb at least. Given the jets are not marked in any way on my carb which was working perfectly before the breakdown, I am at a loss to see what is wrong with the carb. Its non auto-lube, but is clean, clear and no muck anywhere we can find. The float is working perfectly and nothing seems to be jammed or blocked.
2. Since re-building it, I am struggling to get it to kick over reliably. The kick-start doesn't always go to the floor, but often it feels like its catching, then doesn't. I took it apart a second time to check the kick-start quadrant, kick start gear, spring etc, all seem fine. And no damage I can see on the gear on the main gear cluster the kick-start gear meshes with. The kick-start gear spring is not falling out when we re assemble it, as its held in place on the casing with grease and its still in the same place when you take it back apart - so thats not the issue.
I am aware of the issues you can get with a clutch that is adjusted too tight, so I have backed this off until the clutch is almost dragging, yet still it won't kick properly. The old clutch was by the way c hecked (as it was only 3 months old), new plates put in, new springs and the basket and all the other parts of it seems fine. I am assuming something must still be wrong with it? We soaked the cork plates in oil before assembly and took great care putting it back.
I know it won't kick over properly if the clutch is adjusted up too tight, but will it do the same thing if the cable is too slack (ie clutch dragging?) I am baffled and need some pointers.
I have learned everything myself so far under the watchful eye of a colleague who knows quite a lot about vespa's, but we are both stumped by the non existent kick starting, especially bearing in mind it was all working fine until the clutch came to pieces.
Would love some help, ideas, possible things to look at? If I could at least kick it over reliably, we'd stand a better chance of getting the carb issues fixed - even it it means buying a new carburettor.
Thanks Colin
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