Post by colin4255 on May 23, 2011 20:08:42 GMT
You may laugh, but I am new to this scootering lark. I have a PX125 that has a DR180 kit fitted, no auto-lube with a 24mm carb. Not long ago, the clutch came apart while on a ride out to Skegness. The large circlip at the back of the clutch basket came off and luckily I was only trying to kick-start the thing when it happened.
Decided to take the motor out and strip it down just in case any bits had ended up in the engine. Luckily not, but I discovered the barrel had a huge score in it from a gudgeon pin circlip that had come out (some time ago by the looks of it) and it explains the loss of top end power.
Anyway. Bought a new 180 DR kit thinking that when we fitted a new clutch, it should all more or less work the same way. I had however two issues I have not been able to resolve.
1. The thing won;t start. The carb was fine before the clutch stopped working but now it either floods (out of overflow), or after re-cleaning and carefully putting it back together - just does not seem to want to deliver fuel to the engine at all. I bolted on another 24mm dellorto carb tonight probably completely wrongly jetted and we did manage to get it to run, albeit very badly. So it points to an issue with my carb at least. Given the jets are not marked in any way on my carb which was working perfectly before the breakdown, I am at a loss to see what is wrong with the carb. Its non auto-lube, but is clean, clear and no muck anywhere we can find. The float is working perfectly and nothing seems to be jammed or blocked.
2. Since re-building it, I am struggling to get it to kick over reliably. The kick-start doesn't always go to the floor, but often it feels like its catching, then doesn't. I took it apart a second time to check the kick-start quadrant, kick start gear, spring etc, all seem fine. And no damage I can see on the gear on the main gear cluster the kick-start gear meshes with. The kick-start gear spring is not falling out when we re assemble it, as its held in place on the casing with grease and its still in the same place when you take it back apart - so thats not the issue.
I am aware of the issues you can get with a clutch that is adjusted too tight, so I have backed this off until the clutch is almost dragging, yet still it won't kick properly. The old clutch was by the way c hecked (as it was only 3 months old), new plates put in, new springs and the basket and all the other parts of it seems fine. I am assuming something must still be wrong with it? We soaked the cork plates in oil before assembly and took great care putting it back.
I know it won't kick over properly if the clutch is adjusted up too tight, but will it do the same thing if the cable is too slack (ie clutch dragging?) I am baffled and need some pointers.
I have learned everything myself so far under the watchful eye of a colleague who knows quite a lot about vespa's, but we are both stumped by the non existent kick starting, especially bearing in mind it was all working fine until the clutch came to pieces.
Would love some help, ideas, possible things to look at? If I could at least kick it over reliably, we'd stand a better chance of getting the carb issues fixed - even it it means buying a new carburettor.
Thanks
Colin
Decided to take the motor out and strip it down just in case any bits had ended up in the engine. Luckily not, but I discovered the barrel had a huge score in it from a gudgeon pin circlip that had come out (some time ago by the looks of it) and it explains the loss of top end power.
Anyway. Bought a new 180 DR kit thinking that when we fitted a new clutch, it should all more or less work the same way. I had however two issues I have not been able to resolve.
1. The thing won;t start. The carb was fine before the clutch stopped working but now it either floods (out of overflow), or after re-cleaning and carefully putting it back together - just does not seem to want to deliver fuel to the engine at all. I bolted on another 24mm dellorto carb tonight probably completely wrongly jetted and we did manage to get it to run, albeit very badly. So it points to an issue with my carb at least. Given the jets are not marked in any way on my carb which was working perfectly before the breakdown, I am at a loss to see what is wrong with the carb. Its non auto-lube, but is clean, clear and no muck anywhere we can find. The float is working perfectly and nothing seems to be jammed or blocked.
2. Since re-building it, I am struggling to get it to kick over reliably. The kick-start doesn't always go to the floor, but often it feels like its catching, then doesn't. I took it apart a second time to check the kick-start quadrant, kick start gear, spring etc, all seem fine. And no damage I can see on the gear on the main gear cluster the kick-start gear meshes with. The kick-start gear spring is not falling out when we re assemble it, as its held in place on the casing with grease and its still in the same place when you take it back apart - so thats not the issue.
I am aware of the issues you can get with a clutch that is adjusted too tight, so I have backed this off until the clutch is almost dragging, yet still it won't kick properly. The old clutch was by the way c hecked (as it was only 3 months old), new plates put in, new springs and the basket and all the other parts of it seems fine. I am assuming something must still be wrong with it? We soaked the cork plates in oil before assembly and took great care putting it back.
I know it won't kick over properly if the clutch is adjusted up too tight, but will it do the same thing if the cable is too slack (ie clutch dragging?) I am baffled and need some pointers.
I have learned everything myself so far under the watchful eye of a colleague who knows quite a lot about vespa's, but we are both stumped by the non existent kick starting, especially bearing in mind it was all working fine until the clutch came to pieces.
Would love some help, ideas, possible things to look at? If I could at least kick it over reliably, we'd stand a better chance of getting the carb issues fixed - even it it means buying a new carburettor.
Thanks
Colin
