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Post by colin4255 on Feb 22, 2016 14:27:11 GMT
Does anyone know if a Vespa PX seat is a simple bolt on replacement for a standard seat on a Spanish Motovespa 125cc GT?
Thanks
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Post by colin4255 on Feb 28, 2013 18:25:56 GMT
Horn works off DC,which is why its still working - the rest is AC. 100% sure its going to be an earthing issue, or a chaffed wire shorting out. Happened to me - turned out to be a wire that was chaffing and shorting out.
Only other suggestion is a dodgy voltage regulator - have you checked the fuse?
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Post by colin4255 on Feb 28, 2013 18:20:06 GMT
Glad you found out what was wrong. BTW similar issues can be caused by someone fitting a fuel pipe that is too long. ie, its long enough so it drops down below the level of the carb. My PX was like that when I bought it. Worked fine for 5 miles then died. left it a bit, it worked again. Took ages to discover that issue. Pipe should be no longer than 24" Worth mentioning...
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Post by colin4255 on Feb 28, 2013 18:01:45 GMT
My two bob's worth then. Goop. Saved my life last year on the motorway. Nuff said. My life is worth more than a new wheel,tyre and/or tube. The stuff works so long as you use enough of it. Out of devilment, I put some in a tyre, blew it up then unscrewed the valve. It still kept most of the air inside the tyre - so I can tell you it definitely works!
Alloy wheels. I bought a set of SIP and had no idea my PX had an old Mk1 rear hub. Studs were only about about 12mm in length. Bolted up new wheels and a week later, back one almost came off at 55mph! Studs weren't long enough to hold the alloys on firmly (nut not getting on enough thread). Bought a new PX hub - studs are @ 15mm long on the newer ones. I also discussed this with SIP, who, while they said they had tested them with both stud lengths, sent me a new wheel and everything I else I had to replace because of the damage.
I now threadlock the buggers on! I can't actually get the rim off the hub when its under the scoot anyway as the rims are a bit wider than steel ones. When I have to change a rear wheel, I just take the rim and brake drum off in one piece and then split them.
Ran the thing to Cologne and back last June - all motorway - no issues with bthem at all after we had the right hub, proper nordlock washers and a bit og threadlock.
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Post by colin4255 on Feb 28, 2013 17:40:54 GMT
LOL. The chrome could be the issue! A T5 should go to sixty at least. I can't recall the gear ratios but there is a complete list of them on Beedspeeds site. My PX was the opposite it was dying in top, until we realised some numpty had fitted a P200 Christmas tree gear set and in top it was geared too high. 1st 2nd and 3rd are similar as most Vespas,and unlikely to have any huge effect on top speed, but 4th, the number of teeth on the clutch final drive and/or the christmas tree all vary quite a bit depending on what engine you have in the thing. Most likely someone has fitted a complete clutch with too many teeth on it, or the wrong 4th gear. Its not likely to be the whole gearbox thats wrong, just one or two bits. Take a look on Beedys website and then begin counting teeth. Good luck with it
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Post by colin4255 on May 15, 2012 22:10:43 GMT
99% sure it will be a blocked idle jet. Had the exact same thing on my PX last week, ran like a top until it dropped to idle. Cleaned jet, all fine now. Like sbwnik says, leave filters alone, not the best idea with 2 strokes as they clog up really quick.
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Post by colin4255 on May 15, 2012 22:06:13 GMT
Here's my two cents. I bought a PX125 with a 180cc DR kit fitted. Not a racing kit, but supposedly better torque and maintaining its speed uphill, in wind etc. It ran faultlessly on the flat and would just top a true 60mph (like most say on here, unless you buy a 200cc engine, you an't going to get it to go any faster). In my case, slightest headwind or hill and it died in top. Found out why when we stripped it. Someone had fitted Px200 gearing to it. 65 tooth chritsmas tree, and 35 tooth 4th gear. Problem with this is it was overgeared (or is it undergeared - I can never remeber the right terminology!) . Good top end so long as it was flat and a still day. I have taken it back to nearer PX125 gearing, and while it tops out at 55-57 mph now, it holds its speed and doesn't die away at the slightest incline. Way better IMHO. You want 70mph then you will simply have to find a decent PX200 engine, keep it standard apart from an exhaust and some upjetting, but thats if you can find a good one. Rare as hens teeth and really expensive to buy or build from new. New, you are lookin g at about £1200 for the entire set of bits, or £1600 if you buy one already built.
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Post by colin4255 on Mar 20, 2012 21:30:16 GMT
Yeah, it was black on the crank side. Most likely I didn't knock it on far enough. First time I changed one - was being careful - silly old me! It did last about 5 miles. Oh well, have just rebuilt the engine for the second time in as many weeks. Will let you know how I get on. Soon, like the SAS do with rifles, I will be able to build it back up blindfolded!!
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Post by colin4255 on Mar 20, 2012 12:53:41 GMT
Not sure if it will fit under spare, but why not give Beedspeed a call and ask them - I'm sure they'll know.
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Post by colin4255 on Mar 19, 2012 12:52:26 GMT
I had lurching forwatrd on every use of the clutch from a dead stop. Fitted a new clutch, not much better. Took new clutch out and filed down slightly, the cutaways in the basket to allow you to drop each plate in and have it fall to bottom without catching and hey presto - clutch fine again. Unlike buying car parts, a lot of brand new scooter parts are just crap. No getting away from it. Maybe just a little filing and smoothing is all it will take. Make sure the plates are all flat of course cos if any are warped, it will cause the same lurching. Not sure about the cable slack - never seen that before, but witha Vespa, nothing would surprise me.
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Post by colin4255 on Mar 19, 2012 12:46:39 GMT
Main seal had actually failed. Rubber coming apart from the metal part near seal centre. Not seen this before, but there is the answer. In bits again now soon be mended.
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Post by colin4255 on Mar 11, 2012 18:14:51 GMT
Stripped the casing off with engine still in the scoot. Didn't find anything obviously wrong with the casing gasket and all seems well in the engine. Only thing I did notice was roller bearing in RHS casing where main shaft sits was just slightly proud of the casing hole, so tapped it in a little further so it was dead flush. Maybe this has caused casings not to sit flush or flat on the gasket? It definitely looks like it as been leaking from the casings adjacent to carb tray. Had no time to finish rebuilding it all or put any oil in and try it. Will let you know what happens when we get it running!
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Post by colin4255 on Mar 11, 2012 15:54:35 GMT
Just take care removing what you see and if unsure, take pictures first before you bang out a bearing. Mine seems OK, but not gone far yet as I have developed an oil leak now!! LOL scooters eh..
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Post by colin4255 on Mar 11, 2012 15:52:49 GMT
Tried running it on tickover as i dropped the oil. No sign of revs increasing at all. Replaced breather. All I can think is we've nipped the casing gasket, so its off with that next I guess.
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Post by colin4255 on Mar 10, 2012 23:58:38 GMT
Its putoline gearbox oil. Only ran it 4 or 5 miles. Not much chance for it to get dirty really. Will try what you suggest tomorrow and report back. Of course its always possible new seals got nipped or marked. Hope not but will advise. Looks like the breather may have gotten damaged while we had engine out. Got a new one. Will try your idea and if no luck, change the oil and fir new breather and try again. Thx for the suggestions guys...
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Post by colin4255 on Mar 9, 2012 21:20:28 GMT
2 stroke oil I use is bright red in colour. Leak is pure green gearbox oil, with no fuel in it at all. i can see where you are coming from with clutch cover. I have actually looked tonight at the back end of the engine. No leaks at all from around the clutch cover, I replaced all the seals in it when I rebuilt the engine. Its bone dry as is back wheel. No leaks at all from around the breather. Its just loads from what looks like base of carb tray. What puzzles me most is this. All of last year I had various amounts of fuel leaking from the carb tray. It was when I dicsovered on stripping it down over winter that no washers were used on the cfarb bolts and they were bottoming out effectively, that I realised carb and tray were not that tightly sealed, yet never got any oil leaking out, it was mainly fuel mix. The thing is non autolube. This stuff i can see leaking is pure gearbox oil. The oil is all coming ou tbetween the right of the rear shock as you look from back of engine and the flywheel and near the top where the carb is bolted to the tray.
I am very mechanically minded ( I managed to strip and replace all bearings, seals and everything else with no issues having bought the right tools), but for the life of me, I can only think the oil is being 'forced' out by pressure - like due to a blocked breather. Its just that I have no idea if such a leak could actually be caused by a bad gasket at base of carb tray. It just seemks so unlikely to me unless something else was causing or helping the oil to get out if you follow my drift? There was an awful lot of gear oil dripping donw the back of the engine casing after just 5 miles of riding. In that time the engine ran like a top, never missed a beat - no issue at all with how it ran and peformed. Odd really....
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Post by colin4255 on Mar 9, 2012 18:56:59 GMT
I knew it would only be a matter of time.... I have just completely rebuilt my engine. I put a new DR 180 kit on it last year, so all we did there was to check the bore and fit new rings. Elsewhere its been a complete set of bearings, complete set of seals, new clutch, new christmas tree, new cruciform, rear hub bearing etc and all new gaskets. I did have some issues last year when I bought this scoot as the previous owner had not put any washers back on the two bolts that bolt the carb down and it was only looking at Beedspeed that I realised that without the right washers, the carb was not bolted down tight, as they were bottoming out, so we sorted that, and also, he had filled in the hole left by removing the autolube with silicone RTV, so we did a proper job of filling that with liquid metal as air was leaking past what he had put in.
It has a new sito plus exhaust (been on the scoot since last sept) and when I got it running the other day it runs really well, EXCEPT for a massive gearbox oil leak! Ran it for only about 5 miles to check it out, bed it in etc. The leak is nice clean green gearbox oil which seems to be coming from the base of the carb tray where the gasket between the engine casings and tray is. There is no oil leaking around the breather (which I suppose could be blocked? I just tried to remove that and the damm thing is turning and won't undo so tomorrow I am going to drop the back of the engine and get that out.
My guess would be that its building up pressure somehow, though the exhaust is clear and it runs like a top! Only conclusion is the breather needs replacing, or that the base gasket to the carb tray is damaged somehow, but thats quite high up on the engine so why would neat gear oil leak from there profusley? BTW there are no other areas where leaks are evident.
I am going to get to the bottom of this, but just wondered if any of you have had similar issues at any time and/or have any ideas as to what to look for that I may have missed so far.
I have not yet dropped the gearbox oil so I have no idea if there's any fuel in it, but given how well it runs and the new seals etc, I would be surprised - it was very, very carefully assembled.
Any help/ideas appreciated
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Post by colin4255 on Mar 7, 2012 22:12:37 GMT
Or, conversely it coud be getting too much fuel at full throttle, which is why it runs better when you back it down a bit. Ace face is most probably right, but I had the opposite issue witha PX 125 with a DR180 kit fitted. These kits are not screamers and it was just getting a bit too much fuel at full throttle. I slightly educed the size of the main jety and its now fine. You can buy main jets in various sizes for £2 or £3 apiece and its worth looking at the size you use now and buying one 2 sizes smaller and two sizes bigger and trying thme to see if there is any difference - assuming as Ace Face says that your fuel system is not clogged up and thyat your air filter is clean and everything is running as it should be. There are numerous posts on this forum about that, or go to www.louthscooterists.co.uk and look at the 'Did you Know'' page where there are some tips about this kind of thing. Hope you get it sorted out.
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Post by colin4255 on Mar 7, 2012 22:05:51 GMT
Putting more than 2% oil in the fuel can indeed lead to a seizure. Oil burns about 50% hotter than fuel so adding more oil than is needed, far from lubricating, as most people think, will cause the mixture to burn hotter and actually increase the chances of a seizure! Vespas should generally run at a 2% mix, or 100ml for every 5 ltrs of fuel. Unless the maker of your barrell/piston etc suggests more, then don't do it. Like others have said either the crankcase seal or engine main bearing seal leaking or 'on its way out' could cause similar issues, but never put more oil in the fuel than the maker of the barrell/piston/ kit reccommends - it won't help at all. It will in fact, make matters worse s the engine will run hotter and likely cause more damage.
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Post by colin4255 on Mar 3, 2012 21:37:08 GMT
Looked forever to find out how to do this. Haynes manual was woefully useless and not much info on the web either. Figured it out myself and thought I would share with you.....
If you are going to do this, you will need a full bearing rebuild kit, anything else is a waste of time and money. You really need to swap everything to stop the play in the wheel. There are actually four wheel bearings in the front wheel, two in the hub that the wheel bolts onto, and two in the casting that the shock absorber and brake calliper bolt to. There are two circlips, one large flat ‘D’ washer and two sets of grease seals. You will need to replace them all at the same time. While you are at it, best to replace the brake pads. It’s all available from Beedspeed for less than £40 including the rebuild kit and brake pads, springs and pad pins. See the Help page for a link to Beedspeed.com
You will need:-
Circlip pliers
Screwdrivers - flat and cross head blades
8mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 16mm and 22mm sockets
3/8 drive ratchet long extension bar and short extension bar
3/8 drive ratchet
8mm and 13mm spanners
torque wrench (ideally)
Copper or hide hammer
Set of good quality Allen keys
Good quality wheel bearing grease – small tub
Decent sized tyres lever (To lever the pivot pin down to make putting the Speedo cable easier to put back)
At the first attempt a couple of hours free time and it helps to have a mate to help too!
What to do:-
You will need to unbolt the wheel, the disc calliper, remove the brake pads, and disconnect the Speedo cable and the bottom of the front shock absorber to remove the hub and the casting.
Start before you even unbolt the wheel, by loosening the hub nut. Its best to do this with the scooter on its stand and front wheel attached because it will take a lot of force to loosen the hub nut and if you try this with the wheel removed you could tip the scooter forwards and off its stand!. A friend to sit on it and steady the thing is a good idea.
To access the hub nut take a small screwdriver and prise off the silver (or black plastic) hub nut cover that is in the centre of the star shaped front wheel hub.
Behind this you will find a split pin holding a castellated metal hub nut cover on. Bend the split straight and pull it out with a pair of pliers. (When you put this back at the end, replace it with a new one!)
Now pull off the castellated metal hub nut cover and you will se the hub nut. You need a 22mm socket and a fairly long bar or ratchet to undo this at it will be very tight (about 55lbs feet of torque) so no cheap sockets or you will wreck the nut and the job will be over before its begun! For now just loosen it but leave it in place.
Now remove the front wheel by undoing the 5 13mm nuts, taking care not to loose the washers.
Remove the front wheel.
Next turn the handlebars so you can get at the rear of the disc, and prise off the plastic cover that goes over the brake pads (in the centre of the disc calliper at the rear)
Next use a very small screwdriver to push off the small circlip that holds the pin that holds in the brake pads. Tap out the pin (it should come loose or can be cajoled out with a pair of pliers) and then remove the spring that holds in the pads and carefully pull the pads out. If they have less than 1.5mm of thickness or are badly scored or damaged, you will need to replace them
Next undo the two Allen bolts that hold the calliper onto the casting and pull the calliper backwards away from the disc. The hose should be long enough for it to sit on the floor away from the hub. FROM NOW ON do not pull the brake lever until you have put the pads back at the end of this process or you will likely push the calliper pistons out of the calliper!!!!
OK, now remove the hub nut you loosened earlier. The hub itself comes off with the disc bolted to it. Do not expect to be able to pull it off, it will appear to be stuck fast. Now for some patience. Take a copper or hide hammer and while holding the star shaped hub at one side, tap the hub from the back at the other (behind one of the wheel studs) towards you. You may have to turn the hub and keep tapping for a while before it comes loose. DO NOT bash the hell out of it. It is cast alloy and will crack or break and a new one is about £100!. You can tap it fairly hard but don’t go mad. Just take your time and persevere and it will come loose eventually.
Once the hub is off you will need to remove the Speedo cable. Undo the 8mm nut that holds the tab that holds the cable in and remove the nut and tab and gently pull the cable out of the Speedo drive. Leave it to dangle to one side
Now undo the two bolts holding the strut to the casting. One will be easy, the other more tricky as it won’t come out all the way. Undo both 13mm nuts and remove the one bolt you can get out and just take the nut off the other bolt that you can’t get all the way out. Don’t worry; we’ll come back to that.
Next, if you look inside the centre of the casting from the wheel side and clean out all the mucky grease, you will see a circlip. Take some circlip pliers and gently open it, then pull it out long the front wheel axle shaft.
Behind the circlip is a flat washer with a D shape in the centre. Fiddle this out too.
Now you will be able to pull at the casting and it will slide out along the hub just far enough for you to be able to remove the remaining shock absorber bolt you couldn’t get out earlier.
Once you have removed the bolt, pull the shock absorber bottom out of the way and you can remove the casting from the hub spindle shaft completely. There should be a thin flat washer left on the hub spindle. Leave this where it is so you don’t lose it or forget to put it back later. Its critical this washer is there as it spaces the casting properly on the spindle.
OK, now we have a hub with disc attached and casting. Each has bearings and seals inside which we need to remove.
The main hub. Clean any grease away from the outer side (where the hub nut is bolted) and you will see the main wheel bearing is held in by a large circlip. Take your circlip pliers and remove this. Turn the hub over and again clean out all the grease you find. Now will be able to see through the centre of the inner hub bearing to the inside of the outer one. You need a 3/8 drive long ratchet extension and the biggest 3/8 drive socket you can get loosely through the centre of the inner bearing (About 15mm socket from memory). Put the socket on the extension, feed it through the inner bearing, then take your hammer and hit the inside of the main bearing using your socket and extension until you have driven the main hub bearing out through the side where the hub nut was before you undid the hub. It won’t take a lot of force and it won’t damage your extension bar or socket, but don’t use you best ones to do this! Just make sure you drive it out squarely. Before you flip the hub over to drive out the inner bearing, you will need to remove the oil/grease seal that is over the top of it and fitted flush with the inner edge of the hub. Lever this off with a screwdriver – you will be replacing it later. Once the large main bearing is out and you have removed the oil seal from above the inner bearing, take a note of how deep inside the hub the inner bearing is. You can hit the new one a long way in, but all you need to do is hit it in far enough to leave an approx 3mm gap to fit the new seal over it so the top of the seal ends up just below flush with the inside edge of the hub housing when you are done. Measure the depth before you drive out the old inner bearing as you’ll need to put the new one back in only as deep as the old one is. Flip the hub over so you are looking down the hole where the main bearing came out. Take the extension and I think from memory a 15mm socket (or one that just less than the diameter of the inner bearing (i.e. as close to the same size as the inner bearing but loose enough to fit through the centre of the hub) and lower it through the hole till its touching the inner bearing. Now take the hammer and drive out the inner bearing by hitting it. Its not hard and the bearings will come out easily. The main hub is now free of bearings and seals. Next take the casting you removed and clean out all the grease. There are no circlips holding the bearings in the casting, but there is sometimes a small rubber seal between them. The casting has two needle roller bearings in it. Take an appropriate socket and drive them both out at the same time. They are fairly small so it won’t be hard. BEFORE you drive them out, take a note of how far in the housing they are, as you’ll have to put the new ones back in the exact same place. If you look at the large hole in the casting you will see it has an oil seal in it. Prise this out with a screwdriver, as you will be replacing this with a new one from the rebuild kit. Make sure everything is clean and free from dirt. First bearing to go back is the main sealed bearing in the front of the star shaped hub (thee one held in with the circlip). Apply a little wd40 to the outside edge of the bearing and place it squarely in its hole. Take the old main bearing and place it over the new one then tap it back in making sure you keep it square. Drive it all the way in and it will stop as it hits a shoulder in the hub. Make sure its in square and you can see the groove in front of it that the circlip fits in. Put a new circlip back in and that’s the main bearing done. Flip the hub over and now before you put the inner needle roller bearing in, make sure the hub as plenty of wheel bearing grease in it. Clean the hole where the needle roller bearing goes and place the bearing squarely in the hole. Use the old needle bearing, or a socket of the same size as the needle bearing and drive it in. Take care here to do this bit by bit until you have it at the same depth in the hole as you measured before you took the old one out – i.e. deep enough to leave room to tap the seal in over it so it fits just below flush with the inside edge of the hub. DON’T drive it in too far, or you will have to drive it back out and possibly ruin the thing. Gently tap the seal down over it. Check and grease the needle rollers and make sure there’s plenty of grease in the hub and in the needle roller bearings. Now on to the casting. More of the same. Sit the wide end of it on a flat surface (I put an old towel underneath first). Now drive in the first needle roller bearing to the same depth the old ones were. Again a bit at a time so you don’t drive them in too far. Next put the small rubber seal in. Finally, drive in the second needle roller bearing until it’s just below flush with the outer edge of the casting and again, to the SAME depth as you noted before you took the old ones out. Grease the needle rollers properly. These don’t actually turn, but the bottom of the hub rocks on them when the suspension moves so they don’t need lathering in grease. Turn the casting back over and put in the new large seal. Now we are ready to put it all back together, which is basically a reversal of how you took it to bits.
First slide the casting back over the hub spindle so its flush with the thin washer that we left on the hub spindle.
Before you put the circlip back that holds the washer and the casting in place, you’ll need to re-attach the shock absorber and fiddle in the bolt that only comes out (and only goes back) before you finally locate the casting and fit the circlip. Waggle the casting around so you can get that shock absorber Allen bolt in and tighten it with the nut.
Now take the new D washer that came with the rebuild kit and put that back in – it only fits one way and must go all the way in locating on the ‘D’. It has to go back far enough for you to re-attach a new circlip over it. This is fiddly so make sure the circlip is located properly – took me a few goes to get this right as the casting wants to keep moving about. If you tap it, do it gently so as not to damage the outer edge of the casting. Apply a little grease to the hub spindle.
Once you have the casting securely located with its circlip and you are sure it’s properly located and the clip is properly seated, take the main hub with the brake disc attached and slide it gently onto the hub.
As we left the plastic Speedo drive in the hub, turn it gently as you put it back until you feel the Speedo drive locate on the threaded part inside the hub.
Now you can put the hub nut on and tighten it. NOTE there is NO WASHER below the hub nut. Odd though this is, Vespa did not put any washers below the hub nut on the PX Disc and MY disc, it just tightens s directly onto the bearing.
Now you can rebuild the brakes, put the calliper back and put the wheel on. Once the wheel is on, tighten the hub nut to about 55lbs feet of torque and put the castellated hub nut cover back on and a new split pin in. Put the grease cap back on and you should be done… That was easy!!!
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Post by colin4255 on Sept 21, 2011 20:14:38 GMT
I am no expert, but to fit push button starting your engine casings would need the hole to fit a starter motor and flywheel, etc ring gear to allow the motor to turn the engine. If they are not already there (unlikely on a 1984 machine??) then you can't fit a starter motor to the engine. The wiring requires a lot of cabling, starter switch, battery and associated regulators etc. Won't be a simple job and likley to require a new engine capable of holding a start motor at the very least I'd say... not to mention the skill and knowledge to fit the wiring and associated bits. Keep the kickstart.
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Post by colin4255 on Jul 21, 2011 12:05:55 GMT
A friend of mine has just bought a PX200 that is fitted with what I have determined to be a SPACO PHB26 - 26mm carb. I had loads of fun getting his choke to work as the previous incumbent had looped the cable round on itself in the frame and botched where the carb choke cable fits on the PX choke lever. Now that's sorted, I am trying to find out how to set the mixture.
There are two screws on the side of the carb, one of whicih obviously affects the idle speed, but I can't seem to find out how the mixture screw works or where its baseline setting should be. Anyone got any ideas??
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Post by colin4255 on Jul 12, 2011 17:06:49 GMT
Sounds to me like you have an issue with a wire either earthing or shorting out somewhere. I would check the brake light switch and/or its connectors first
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Post by colin4255 on Jul 12, 2011 9:10:15 GMT
Thanks sbwnik, I think I will buy one.
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Post by colin4255 on Jul 12, 2011 9:09:25 GMT
And, I should have said, maybe an easier way to get the toolbox lid open is to drill out the lock. You'll need hardened drill bit for this - maybe an idea to get a locksmith to do it for you.
Ignition lock and keys are simpler to fit and lock easier to remove without having the keys.
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vespa
Jul 11, 2011 18:28:17 GMT
Post by colin4255 on Jul 11, 2011 18:28:17 GMT
I'm no expert with jetting, but I have a PX 125 with a DR 180 kit and my main jet is only a 114. It runs fine. It still slows up in headwinds and going up hills, but they all tend to do that to some degree or other. Aldo, I am no lightweight!!!
It sounds to me like yours is over - jetted. Jets are only about £3 orn £4 each and the advice I was given was to buy a range of them, 110, 112, 114, 116 and try them all out. They take ten mins to change and you normally find the right one inside 3 or 4 attempts.
Best way is to try and relatively short runs at top speed and 'see' which one feels best and/or seems to give best top speed, then, run it till it gets nice and hot, take it flat out and cut the engine, coasting to a stop, then take out the plug and check it. It should be a nice chocolate brown colour if the mixture is riight. You won't get any sense out of trying this if you run it and take the plug out after riding it normally to a stop, you have to cut the engine while its going flat out and do what the guys call a plug chop. If its pale brown or grey in colour its running too weak. If its very dark brown or black, too rich.
My guess is that the jet is too big and its bogging down as its running too rich. The main jet only comes into playv after more than half throttle anyway so the fact its running fine until you get it into top and it accelerates OK I would suggest the idle jet etc is fine. Poor top speed can just as easily be caused by too big a main jet, as too small a main jet.
The DR kits are not a race kit, only a touring kit really, so don't expect it to go much above 60 - 65 mph in any case all things being equal, but it shouldn't be dying in top.
How long has the kit been on the engine? My DR180 was losing power in top and I was mucking about with jetting, then the clutch exploded, thowing bits into the engine. We split the engine and found it had a missing gudgeon pin clip and a nice big score down the barrell and very little compression. As I was new to scootering back then, I had no idea.
Once I re4placed the kit with a new one, ran it in and sorted out the jetting it works fine, but 60- 65mph is about its limit flat out and to do that it it is properly flat out....
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Post by colin4255 on Jul 11, 2011 18:12:18 GMT
Beedspeed can sell you new igniition lock and keys, and glovebox lock and keys, though how you'll get the glovebox off I am not sure. The glovebox lock is held in place with a two pronged spring clip that slots either side of the lock on the inside, and the lock will only come out vertically by tipping it foreward once you remove the clip from the back, so twisting it off is not an option I am afraid, the hole it sits in ain;t big enough for it to turn in any way.
The glove box is held on with 4 x 8mm nuts onto bolts that sit behind the horncast, but again, unless you are prepared to wreck your horn cast, you need to undo that from inside the toolbox too.
Sorry I haven't come up with a simple answer.
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Post by colin4255 on Jul 11, 2011 18:05:58 GMT
I had a similar issue re-building mine, scooterwarehouse is correct. The wires in the junction boxn are a very tight fit, and on mine, two terminals were just touching even though I had thought I had been careful putting them all back in. Best to check they are all properly connected and nothing is touching that shouldn't be..
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Post by colin4255 on Jul 11, 2011 17:40:34 GMT
I have a PX 125 with a DR 180 kit. It has the Simonini exhaust on it that it came with. Just re-built the engine with a new DR 180 kit, have it running OK. It will do around 55- 60mph but doesn't seem to want to go any faster. It will hold 60 on the flat, but drops speed with inclines / headwinds. Maybe I am asking too much, but if there is a better exhaust??
I am not sure how old the simonini exhaust is and was thinking of replacing it, but the question is what with?
I have heard these DR's run well with a Sito plus exhaust, but boy am I getting lots of conflicting advice.
Right now its running a BE3 atomiser, 55/160 and a 114 main jet. I have a 110, 112 and 116, but it so far seems to run better on the 114?
Can anyone offer some good advice on the best exhaust for a DR 180 kit?
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Post by colin4255 on Jul 1, 2011 12:36:28 GMT
Thats interesting about the mix. Seems I have been given some bum info by colleagues - I was told it was better to increase the mix when running in to avoid the chances of it nipping up? Thanks for the heads up.
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