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Post by shaunbond on Jan 11, 2024 20:15:10 GMT
Two things wrong in my opinion. 20mil carb is plenty for a low state of tune 150cc and a Stirling exhaust is a terrible match for the port timings of the cylinder. They are for high revving kits and even then they're not a very good exhaust.
You'll be much better off with a box exhaust which doesn't require high revs to make power.
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Post by shaunbond on Jan 3, 2024 18:27:41 GMT
£55 is cheap for the laser cut variety. The chequer plate ones are less but , I think they look poor in comparison.
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Post by shaunbond on Jan 3, 2024 18:22:26 GMT
1500rpm on tick over is about right
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Post by shaunbond on Dec 30, 2023 10:56:55 GMT
Glad it's working, however it sounds like a very low reading.
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Post by shaunbond on Jan 3, 2023 21:39:47 GMT
If only light, it should be fine. Alternatively block the weep hole in the casing and fitting an external seal is an option
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Post by shaunbond on Nov 27, 2022 17:37:37 GMT
That's the LAW. Check this hasn't changed on gov.co.uk. Unless you ride a 50cc on grandfather rights, i.e. passed car test before something like 1999. You don't need L's and can carry a pillion.
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Post by shaunbond on Oct 25, 2022 8:56:54 GMT
The right direction is not to do it, they'll both kill your performance, assuming you don't mean a Polini box exhaust, especially the Stirling. The DR is a low reving kit, the Polini is the better if the two, but you already have a better option fitted.
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Post by shaunbond on Sept 25, 2022 14:49:06 GMT
LML's have a screw on cable, like early Vespa's
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Post by shaunbond on Aug 22, 2022 16:06:21 GMT
Autolube gets blamed for many engine failures, in reality it's extremely reliable. People do forget that's it's a serviceable system and needs to be inspected and kept in good order. Just Google it and you'll see how it works, I can't say what you need to do as there are many things that could have been done to move to premix, from just blanking the driveshaft hole to complete removal of all parts
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Post by shaunbond on Aug 5, 2022 15:47:41 GMT
Although panels are the same the rear pin can be welded on in significantly different places, meaning panels sit at different heights. An easy fix but something to be aware of
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Post by shaunbond on Jul 5, 2022 18:08:00 GMT
Lift the rear wheel off the ground, put it in gear, 2nd or 3rd, and rotate the wheel, removing the spark plug would make this easier. Hopefully, the crank spins and the piston is free too. This means that the gearbox is spinning and this may, and I mean may, release the kickstart cog, if it's stuck..
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Post by shaunbond on Jun 9, 2022 23:01:00 GMT
My setup is the same but with a standard 57mm crank, so probably less torque that the 60mm set up. It's fantastic, plenty of pull and I'm confident it would pull standard 200 gearing
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Post by shaunbond on Jun 9, 2022 22:58:53 GMT
That a 23 tooth clutch is wrong for this set up ( 125 ) - Correct, a standard 23t 200 clutch centre will not mesh with a 125 primary, however company's like BGM do a version which will. I have one fitted to mine. the Cush repair won’t work unless cog is changed - As above the px125 comes with a 36 tooth 4th as stock so why buy another - Correct, commonly known as a T5 4th, they are fitted to 200's to shorten the gap between 3rd and 4th.
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Post by shaunbond on Jun 5, 2022 8:57:17 GMT
I've had a read through this and by the sounds of it you've exhausted all the potential fuel issues. As someone says it's really difficult diagnosing faults over the internet, however have you considered if the LT pick up is failing? As soon as it stops, immediately take the plug out and check for a spark, if none, leave it 10 mins or so and do nothing else then check again. If it sparks I'd put my money on the LT pick up.
They tend to break down with heat but once cooled a little will work again.
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Post by shaunbond on Apr 24, 2022 19:12:55 GMT
Shaun Just branching off a bit. I’m looking at getting my forks extended . Where did you get yours done ? Also are you running a 100 90 10 tyre ? Just wanted to know if they fit. Cheers My forks aren't extended. 🤔 The 100/90/10 will fit but will possibly need spacing from the hub with a washer. Some makes fit without and some don't, manufacturing tolerances,I guess...
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Post by shaunbond on Apr 21, 2022 19:36:56 GMT
I run it with a standard crank in LML Reed cases. 5 years and 7k miles without any problems, I've other scooters and a bike, so limited miles on each. I'd definitely build another and would consider a long stroke version.
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Post by shaunbond on Apr 16, 2022 18:51:21 GMT
Just lift the tank, 10 mins and you'll have retrieved it.
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Uk model
Mar 12, 2022 12:31:39 GMT
via mobile
Post by shaunbond on Mar 12, 2022 12:31:39 GMT
There were no Vespa's being built in the UK in 1982, the Douglas factory closed well before then.
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Post by shaunbond on Aug 31, 2021 20:34:50 GMT
In order to retain the original registration, you need to be able to tie the registration mark to the chassis number. An old log book will do this, hense Mushroom being able to do so. Unfortunatley the days of using a Tax disc is long gone, unless someone knows any different. If the council that originally registered it have reatined their records you can get an authorised photocopy which will suffice.
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Post by shaunbond on Jun 22, 2021 12:19:32 GMT
I think tight valve clearances have similar symptoms. Might be loose but check with Google.
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Post by shaunbond on Mar 31, 2021 20:26:18 GMT
If your clutch meshes fine with your primary and I think it should give it's 65/23, then that's great. A 125 clutch cover will not fit without modification which is simply done or fit a 200 cover
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Post by shaunbond on Mar 31, 2021 20:26:05 GMT
If your clutch meshes fine with your primary and I think it should give it's 65/23, then that's great. Abq25 clutch cover will not fit without modification which is simply done or fit a 200 cover
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Post by shaunbond on Feb 8, 2021 17:04:43 GMT
Almost impossible to diagnose over the t'internet but sounds a bit like it's pinking.
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Post by shaunbond on Jan 18, 2021 18:45:23 GMT
Can't remember who, but they produce a bracket for this purpose. It moves the stand forward. No frame modification needed, just plug n play.
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Grips
Sept 6, 2020 18:30:45 GMT
via mobile
Post by shaunbond on Sept 6, 2020 18:30:45 GMT
I hope you get sorted.
I would try the anti vibration over grips, they fit over your existing grips. Makes the grip fatter but I like the way they work.
Also add some proper heavy bar end weights to help dampen the vibrations.
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Post by shaunbond on Jul 9, 2020 17:40:09 GMT
Sounds like you have two different symptoms, but both point to it being lean. Hesitation, insufficient fuel (lean) and slow to settle back to idle indicates air leak (lean). However, before you do anything check that you're slide is fully returning and that's not causing the slow to idle problem, leaving you to fix the hesitation with the mixture screw. If everything is ok and you're happy that you have no leaks at the carb, my bet is flywheel oil seal which is an easy job. Good luck with it.
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Post by shaunbond on Jul 5, 2020 13:11:40 GMT
Hi, have a look on the SIP site, they sell various types for different models including the VBB
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Post by shaunbond on Jun 25, 2020 16:27:54 GMT
I'd suggest ignition or fueling issue. Leaning more towards fueling as it's not under load, which is where you normally see ingition problems
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Post by shaunbond on Jun 23, 2020 14:45:30 GMT
Some can be very tight on the spindle. If you haven't already put the rim and tyre back on and give the edge of the rim a whack with a rubber mallet, turning the it often. I've only ever had to resort to a 3 leg puller once.
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Post by shaunbond on May 31, 2020 10:00:52 GMT
Ok so if I've understood correctly by tightening the three bolts your clutch cover is engaging the clutch. Therefore some part of the clutch cover is pressing on the basket or pressure plate. When the cover is fully tightened and you press the Kickstarter down can you hear the clutch catching on the cover?
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