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Post by pxguru on Apr 16, 2017 6:56:50 GMT
Sometimes just SH?T. I would run it in with at least a 140 main jet and a little extra oil in the tank. The spluttering will stop you thrashing it.
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Post by pxguru on Apr 16, 2017 6:52:53 GMT
That sounds quite unfortunate, if it is sparking it is just an engine issue.
Here are a few more things it might be; 1. CDI or loose wiring - sometimes they still spark but just don't start 2. Flywheel spun on the key - often accompanied by backfire 3. Mainseal fell out - Would still start eventually but would run terrible 4. Water in carb - Might fire occasionally but not run
There are probably a few more but too early to think
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Post by pxguru on Apr 10, 2017 15:39:38 GMT
Plug is looking ok to leave if it feels good. Slightly lean for me but as it gets hotter it will be a bit richer anyway.
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Post by pxguru on Apr 8, 2017 10:26:30 GMT
Well it had to happen. I took the barrel off to tweek the packer size. While inspecting the heavily worn, battle scarred, legend of a barrel, that has given at least 10,000 miles of smiles, there is now sadly a crack, very small but very significant and not where we like to see one.
I have re-assembled (to test the packer) as it won't fail just yet but it will fail soon enough, so thats it. The crack is just in the skirt and could be repaired but I have been waiting for it to fail and there are no more re-bores in it.
The final tweek will stay in the plan and I will re-work my standby old Malossi 210 barrel from the shelf in my garage, to have the exact same porting dimensions as the iron Polossi had.
The plan is the same as ever; not an all out racer but a road rideable fully panelled scooter with about 30bhp, which pulls 4th like a train and will cruise in the centre lane.
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Post by pxguru on Apr 5, 2017 6:26:12 GMT
It's got to be fairly close now but once jetted right, it will have the same feeling on 95 petrol
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Post by pxguru on Apr 5, 2017 6:23:03 GMT
I saw the plug picture and not looking so bad, especially as it is running lean and it hasn't seized up.
If that is from a 1/4 throttle plug chop, I would try a 55/160 IJ and a B7HS plug next. The plug itself is not getting quite hot enough and the jetting does look slightly lean for safe riding.
Must be feeling good to ride though?
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Post by pxguru on Apr 3, 2017 7:10:03 GMT
Compared to your BE5 a BE3 is leaner at lower rpm and richer at higher rpm. Exactly what you need for that sooty plug!
This is a usual issue with engines which are more powerful. The higher revs need disproportionately more fuel while the bottom end doesn't.
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Post by pxguru on Apr 2, 2017 16:17:33 GMT
Just back from a 2 hour ride about. The slight richness as rolling the throttle back on after run down was getting on my nerves. Got it off the end of the speedo while sitting up at one point. Going really great Jetting now AC190, BE2, 48/160, MJ135, slide 04, 2.0mm drilled
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Post by pxguru on Apr 2, 2017 16:12:01 GMT
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Post by pxguru on Apr 2, 2017 7:43:46 GMT
On mine I have the autolube box lid, so slightly more volume.
I feel the main advantage of a vortex is that the air enters in a more organised fashion. Similar but not like a ram air system where its funnelled in. Without the vortex the carb inlet becomes effectively smaller with all the turbulence surrounding the rim. What i have learnt so far, no standard fliter is running way better than with standard filter (135 MJ instead of 128) As the vortex makes the venturi longer there will be more vacuum on the main jet pulling more fuel but as the jet sizes need to be bigger with the vortex it confirms that even more air is getting in than the increase in vacuum can supply.
Ingenious idea for a filter, wonder if it's ok?
Will do a recording once I have the new cylinder head on. I have decided that the compression is too low. I like to be able to cruise around town from low 20's in 4th gear and it can't quite manage like the Polossi does.
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Post by pxguru on Apr 2, 2017 7:22:28 GMT
Petrol pump, might have got contaminated with diesel? If it is water the carb will need cleaning out. It does sound like you've found the main issue though.
Unlikely that the 1/4 throttle plug chop will be digestive colour though, I am sure it will still need the bigger BE3 atomiser.
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Post by pxguru on Apr 1, 2017 15:16:45 GMT
The 45/160 pilot just wasn't big enough. Was fine for throttling up but no good on the run down and way too lean on cruise. Going to put it all back as it was pre air filter. It is just drawing too much air for a standard air filter.
I have ordered a 26/26 Vortex.
I really liked the idea of it all being standard looking (SI carb and filter, SIP road, Iron 200 barrel) but with something like 22bhp. Just a minor change taking off the air filter and no one will know anyway.
Running it for now with an open carb "80's style". Jetting AC190, BE2, 50/160, MJ135, slide 04, 2.0mm drilled. Once I took that air filter off the whole re jet took one hour of riding and tweeking up and down the bypass. Going great now, just slightly over at mid, ready for the Vortex.
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Post by pxguru on Mar 31, 2017 8:28:11 GMT
Running nice and terrible. CHT is really way off isn't it?
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Post by pxguru on Mar 31, 2017 8:17:29 GMT
It is possible that the soot is building up in there. Once running hotter it might burn off (isn't modern fuel just great?). See how it goes with the new jets.
btw, what brand of 2 stroke oil do you use? And not doing any extra pre-mix in the tank?
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Post by pxguru on Mar 30, 2017 19:29:50 GMT
In that case all the issues are around the pilot to main transition then.
Depending on what jets you have to hand try a 48/160 pilot and then BE3 atomiser, either way around and one by one (confirming the MJ chop each change) but I think you will need both.
And if the plug is still a bit dark a 160 air corrector instead of the 150.
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Post by pxguru on Mar 30, 2017 10:01:36 GMT
Good it is making sense. Nothing much for you to worry about but you did end up with a touring tune (usually circa 8000)that revs too high. This is why the 0.2mm packer came off but just don't prolong the 9000 rpm action. The fat 2mm rings are not suited to high rpm as they lose power, they don't necissarily break. If it pulls 4th gear acceptably, once jetted in just leave the packer alone and ride it.
Should be a lot easier to jet in this time. I think the top ring cracked soon after the last re-build and was making it difficult. Do a short post each time it changes for the record.
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Post by pxguru on Mar 30, 2017 8:58:55 GMT
I was wondering how it was going, I asked a while ago on the other thread. That is not the plug of a healthy scooter. What might be happening is occasional plug fouling from that black soot. If you dont have leaks and not doing too many mpg, then not so terrible. How is the overall performance when wide open? If the plug looks that choked then the insides of the exhaust are going to look much the same. If you can't make over 55 mph on the speedo then the exhaust might be a bit blocked. Silly question but you dont keep anything under the seat blocking the air intake? had to ask Remind me what Air Corrector and atomiser you have in there. If the carb isn't leaking, stripping it down won't help any.
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Post by pxguru on Mar 29, 2017 4:38:54 GMT
So what we can surmise from this is that, most are nowhere near the limit. And these numbers are quite safe too. Another thousand on each would still be not too much
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Post by pxguru on Mar 29, 2017 4:31:50 GMT
Was wondering what you were up to. Seems like it is all going fine. Will be very slightly hotter with the running in. As before, the plug colour and how it feels says it all. The reading can just be used for known reference once you know what reading gives the right plug colour. Suppose you can't tell how the performance is yet? Hopefully somewhere near last summer's glory.
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Post by pxguru on Mar 27, 2017 7:09:03 GMT
Well that sorts out that mystery. I have done the same before but by forgetting to tighten up. While turning round to park up I was thinking it should be leaner now......maybe the choke is stuck on......maybe the jet is no good, then maybe I'm a numpty At least it works now. Get the front wheel back on the ground and do the plug chops as soon as you can. Slightly too lean and at 1/4 or WOT and it will bite you hard
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Post by pxguru on Mar 24, 2017 6:12:16 GMT
To run a standard barrel any crank will do. 60mm crank will make it go better and an exhaust tweek with a base packer and even better still. Gas flowing cranks and inlet port size are not going to be any benefit with those tiny little transfer ports in the standard barrel. My tourer is 'O' tuned standard barrel but my way of doing it. 22 bhp on the last test. And still needs a slight head skim and a Carb Vortex before its finished. That mark on the conrod is no issue yet. I would take the crank out and get it re-pressed and checked over at some workshop. What else will you do with the crank, bin it? I would carry on with the 208 too, will run forever set up properly
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Px 200
Mar 23, 2017 9:27:26 GMT
Post by pxguru on Mar 23, 2017 9:27:26 GMT
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Post by pxguru on Mar 22, 2017 16:12:39 GMT
Full circle it is then
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Post by pxguru on Mar 22, 2017 16:10:04 GMT
yeah, its the right way up. It would pull slightly further for less degrees the other way up but would hit the cable mount. It is either the right part and badly designed or nearly the right part that is for a similar model built in the factory around the same time. One that would make the gear marks line up in the gears would have the cable nipples a few mm further from the centre.
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Post by pxguru on Mar 22, 2017 9:24:06 GMT
How you plan on riding it?
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Post by pxguru on Mar 22, 2017 9:20:30 GMT
Would be fairly sure it is the original part with such little use. I think on those old ones it is possible to fit the pulley upside down (180 degrees out). Might just be that. Like Bryno says, does it matter so much?
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Post by pxguru on Mar 22, 2017 7:58:52 GMT
Conrod rubbing on the crank?? Thats weird. Has the clutch nut come loose, big end gone wobbly or main bearing worn out? Bell shaped for high rpm screaming tuned engines and full circle for normal people
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Post by pxguru on Mar 22, 2017 7:54:16 GMT
It will work. With a fully standard head the compression will be quite high, which is great if you do 2 up and cruising about. If thrashing about at WOT all day is your thing, then a 1mm base packer would make it run a bit cooler and rev even more freely. Timing should still be ok on the A mark but be sure to re-jet from scratch to avoid disappointment.
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Post by pxguru on Mar 22, 2017 7:23:07 GMT
Frustrating for sure. The most likely problem is not going to be the engine but the gear shift pulley in the handlebars. Worn, broken or the entirely wrong one for your model!
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Post by pxguru on Mar 22, 2017 7:19:57 GMT
It won't look so original P200E but 2nd hand disc forks from a later model would fit easy and work better. Sime66 is 'sometime soon' going to do the same job on his EFL and you might be able to follow his thread.
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