|
Post by pxguru on Aug 11, 2017 3:33:00 GMT
Glad its out. The newer engines like yours with the newfangled plating shouldn't corrode like the older ones did and I was thinking this is a bit odd, then I remembered something I heard about Coppaslip before. If certain types of Coppaslip are used on Aluminium and it gets wet, there can be a chemical reaction that causes some kind of accelerated corrosion. Exactly what you wouldn't expect. White Lithium grease is the answer for things that can get wet, although any regular grease is still better than none.
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Aug 8, 2017 12:20:49 GMT
I don't see why you need to make these non comments. They are just pointless. I would imagine people leave here more confused than when they arrived!
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Aug 7, 2017 18:02:22 GMT
The exhaust bolts that seize are the old style (non-plated version) and that being the case the engine mounts are likely old and knackered too. Before attacking it with the power tools, if it were mine I would take out the engine mounts and blow torch the casing round the bolt and hit it with a drift and big hammer. Not many opportunities for the big hammer but this is one.
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Aug 7, 2017 8:41:36 GMT
These days you don't need a 200 to go fast. All of 125 the kits avalable can be adjusted to make way more power than a P200. Sometimes even more power than a 210 kit
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Aug 7, 2017 8:20:42 GMT
My front spare wheel bolt stripped on my 221 last week too! Standard procedure was to always drill it out and put a bolt though from the back. I guess something cool could be done with a rivnut? Is this an option?
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jul 26, 2017 12:51:16 GMT
Sometimes the primary cog is just not as round as it should be. Seems like this is not the major issue, as it would not cause the symptoms you describe, unless you did something really wrong like use the wrong primary shaft from an old Piaggio or forgot the needles (already mentioned).
With the wobbly flywheel I would say it is a crank related issue. Any significant wobble here is too much. I don't know much LML but isn't the flywheel side different in some way?
If you put some videos on Youtube we will know exactly what you are talking about.
|
|
|
MPG
Jul 20, 2017 10:10:14 GMT
Post by pxguru on Jul 20, 2017 10:10:14 GMT
Is a good sign all is well. Tighten the clutch cable every few weeks and it will keep the gearbox healthy too.
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jul 20, 2017 10:07:51 GMT
The main noise sounds like the usual piston slap. This might be a little better when its fully hot.
I would urgently tighten that kickstart before it is broken and then do a compression test. If it's more that 100 psi, I would then not worry about anything and ride without a care, until it's less than 100 psi.
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jul 17, 2017 18:37:49 GMT
And I suppose it has to do 80 mpg and last for 50,000 miles Well done on the tax rebate but it is only possible to get to 35 bhp with rpm. Have a look on youtube, anything over 30 bhp is a screamer. The Malossi 210 (old 210) you already have will make 25 bhp as it is without spending anything much, just some intelligent porting. Will need a real clutch and 24 tooth to go with that but thats about it.
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jul 17, 2017 5:33:19 GMT
I think the 24 tooth will be a waste of money. Will be an interesting experiment but a waste of money. A malossi 210 kit wasn't the best choice for a tourer set up. With a 60 mm crank the Malossi 210 can be made to pull better but still not as good as others.
Now you have the 210 I would focus on making it more powerful before any gearing change. When it gets near 80mph with the existing 23/65 gearing, then it will then be time to up gear.
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jul 16, 2017 6:19:19 GMT
If it is 18 degrees, then its ok but 19 would be better. Check it with a timing light to confirm.
So much for the engine being standard. Any chance that it might be a 60mm crank?
The T5 4th only changes the speed by about 2mph. Is important for pulling 4th gear but won't notice so much. The feeling of revving high is because it is struggling with the low power.
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jul 15, 2017 10:06:40 GMT
The Cosa 24 tooth helical is £75. I think we are saying similar, at best it would nearly go as fast at the standard 23 tooth but not any faster on the flat. Would certainly rev less, so would fix that problem but would not be in 4th so often, as it would struggle even more than the usual 210 does.
The feeling of revving high would go away if it had more power in mid range. I think this is where the focus should be.
Cakey, where is the timing set to?
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jul 15, 2017 7:03:42 GMT
- the 22/68 (3.09) primary ratio would make it rev out much quicker - the 23/65 (2.82) standard or the 24/65 (2.75) lengthened - i think he wants to lengthen the ratio to use the extra revs to increase the top speed and reduce the top end revs. Increaseing the drive ratio from the 23 to the DRT 24 would be the cheapest and easiest option. Still not much power for the 210 but still a ridable scooter. Are you advising this guy that his scooter with a 15 bhp reading from a Dyno, will pull a 24/65 gearbox on the road and actually go faster?
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jul 14, 2017 15:09:25 GMT
As said 15bhp isn't much. Up gearing without more power will only go faster down hill with the wind behind. With the power you have it would go better if you down gear to 68/22!
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jul 6, 2017 3:30:05 GMT
You might be better changing that signature to a less spooky 55.5 mph
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jul 6, 2017 3:27:32 GMT
I still have the electric start working fine on both of mine. Will remove it if it ever breaks but so handy when stalling in traffic.
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jul 3, 2017 14:30:35 GMT
That one wont fit on a 125, as its for a 200. This one will though www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/~/products/gasket+cylinder+base+th+10mm+_90783300 its for a Polini but that should be ok. The best way is just buy a sheet of 1mm ally (about a quid) and make your own. With the head, measure the height of the lip before and after. Best way in the shed is to hold it on an 80 grit belt sander to get the most off then progressivly finer wet and dry on glass. Is a bit animal but works fine and only takes 30 minutes
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jul 3, 2017 9:46:26 GMT
Was just about to write something H. A SIP road is what to buy for sure. vespa.proboards.com/thread/6216/base-gasketsFor even more power without spending anything much, put some more base gaskets on. Like I have said before, the first part is to add up to 1.0mm of base gaskets, this will go faster with this alone. Although, if you like that and want some more, take the 1.0mm back from the cylinder head, either by sanding on glass or on a lathe (a 125 head is 39 quid new, so almost disposable). If after you have the SIP Road on and still need more power, square off the top edge of the oval exhaust port with a Dremel or hand file (more details available if needed). Should be keeping up with a DR kit by this point
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jul 3, 2017 5:02:11 GMT
The higher float level messes up the atomiser hole alignment. Can be jetted ok but difficult to do. The drilling of the jet channel is the same as can be done yourself. An autolube hole could be drilled in it but who would want a 28 on autolube? I still have the autolube on my 26/26 in the Tourer and that will end up on a 142 or 145 main jet next time out. In my opinion this is the limit of the SI carb. Anymore needs a big boys one. Hopefully you are up to having a sneaky ride around soon
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jul 3, 2017 4:49:47 GMT
I just can't understand why so many guys in sheds take their studs out. Taking a good stud out of a good casing for the only reason of taking the barrel off is just criminal, when you can just swing the engine more easily. You can see from your recent disaster where this ends up, where it always ends up. Seen many horrible messes just the same over the years and its just sad, especially as they are not made anymore.
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jul 2, 2017 4:37:47 GMT
If you do get yourself in trouble, there several ways to fix a stripped thread and they all work with various degrees of success. There is also welding and re drilling but the metal is never quite good as the original. All I was trying to point out that there is no need to actually remove them. If they are stripped at the top and there isn't enough good thread to get a head nut on with a spacer, then, and only then, change the stud. SIP sell Malossi and Pinasco engine casings now too, they do look good (especially the Pinasco reed) but who has that kind of money to waste? Before using threadlock, some of the earlier studs were designed to be a tighter thread at the casing end others were just squashed in a vice from the factory. Either way if you look closely at a stud after it is removed there will be aluminum particles on it and sometimes a small chunk of thread. Can't get away with this too often before the threads are knackered. Taking the studs out takes way longer than swinging the engine. Piaggio have even put a little more clearance in the frame in later years, so the carb box can stay on while doing this. Just seems like a 'no brainer'
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jul 1, 2017 4:19:31 GMT
The only point of an SI 28 would be to keep the auto lube. Anyone who needs a 28 (210 kit) would not trust an auto lube to keep their barrel shiny.
I think they won't be popular.
You up to riding about again yet?
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jul 1, 2017 4:14:41 GMT
Sounds like the usual. A very small carb leak (float bowl, fuel filter or banjo). Float needle needs replacing (they never look damaged but just don't work). Mixture screw badly adjusted (too far open). A healthy scooter will start on half a kick when hot but would need to up to a whole kick after 30 minutes.
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jul 1, 2017 3:40:27 GMT
Is so sad. Once you get the studs back in.....never ever take them out again! There is no reason they ever need to be taken out. Swinging the engine down to take the barrel off is way quicker and easier anyway and the risk of ruining your engine is zero
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jul 1, 2017 3:15:56 GMT
It does take a lot longer than you think it should by the normal way, as it is just a tiny master cylinder. A few things that help are; keep the reservoir full, after every few pumps you will need to top it up. Use a bleed pipe with a non return valve and the nipple can stay open. Pump the lever very slowly. Give yourself a good hour and don't spill any on the paintwork!
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jun 27, 2017 14:55:43 GMT
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jun 22, 2017 16:51:16 GMT
Agree. Could be low compression. Or could just be way too rich on the mixture screw.
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jun 21, 2017 3:09:23 GMT
For me 0.95mm is not so small. I would leave it there. My new 221 is 0.9mm and it's last barrel was 0.7mm (and ran for many years like that).
If you are really not happy to do that then just add a 0.1mm base gasket. The cheap gasket set P200 one with the Malossi ports cut into it will do fine.
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jun 20, 2017 11:17:53 GMT
Retarding the timing more than necessary does still make heat but without so much power. Not been something that has much interested me but the torque does apparently go up. Overall retarding the timing is when it is detonating or as a last resort. With my 221 there is no detonating, piston is clean of scratch marks on the top and I can hear pinking from 100 yards, so clearly not a timing issue but killing the power by retarding does overall bring the temperature down but I guess that is mostly with making the primary ignition weaker, which is not in our interests. I am often sure but from my last two tests this has really worked for my 221. Once I get the final jetting tweak done to know it is all ok, I will turn my Kytronic back on (3rd Khepher failed a long time ago).
For your 177 the squish should be smaller anyway. 1.2mm is what the books say is for a 250cc (a 50cc would be 0.5mm). Really should be aiming for 1.0mm but its all a compromise and taking that out of your transfer delay may notice a little too much. Take out the 0.2mm packer for sure. Will reduce the rpm and won't notice too much. The compression will then only be 10.5:1, so no issue at all. My new 221 head is now about 13:1 and seems to like it. 12.5:1 is where I am comfortable though so might need some tweak later on.
|
|
|
Post by pxguru on Jun 18, 2017 4:20:27 GMT
The exhaust has nothing to do with the starting. If everything is good then it is just getting too much fuel. Check all the jets in the carb are 80's 125 spec and that the pilot jet is tight in the carb. If all is still correct then it is just the mixture screw is too far unscrewed. If it is an original 80's carb, it should be set near to 1.5 turns out from fully in.
With the engine running, set a fast tickover, then wind the mixture screw right out more than 4 whole turns. The tickover will drop a little lower now, so speed it up to about 1500 rpm again. Then slowly wind the mixture screw in until the revs really speed up, continue winding until the revs don't go any faster, then back out slightly. Turn down the tickover and check that it revs off from slow tickover without hesitating. Switch of the engine and check how many turns out the mixture screw is now set at. Should be somewhere near 1.5 turns if it isn't you need to come back here again.
|
|