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Post by bignico2411 on Oct 10, 2015 12:37:52 GMT
Replacement gasket set arrived today and there isn't one exactly the same as the one that was between casing and carb box. There's a similar one, but it doesn't stretch as far as the autolube drive hole (drive shaft is now out). Can I use it anyway, or is this a problem?
Cheers
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Post by bignico2411 on Oct 13, 2015 17:58:43 GMT
I've picked up a blanking grommet to plug the autolube drive hole in the casing. There's a very fine 'pin' on one side, I presume this side goes face down? And Beedspeed suggest using loctite for an ideal finish, is this really necessary? I don't have loctite, but I do have superglue somewhere.
Cheers
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Post by vespasco on Oct 13, 2015 18:12:44 GMT
Its probaly wise to use loctite..do you have any silicone??? It would be better than supply glue thats for sure. Or gasket paste?
Ive not done the mod so not sure sorry but can only imagine the 'pin' is just bad machining??
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Post by bignico2411 on Oct 13, 2015 20:04:03 GMT
Its probaly wise to use loctite..do you have any silicone??? It would be better than supply glue thats for sure. Or gasket paste? Ive not done the mod so not sure sorry but can only imagine the 'pin' is just bad machining?? I do have silicone, vespasco, should I just wipe a small amount around the hole before knocking the grommet in? I have to say, I thought the 'pin' was a flaw too, but SIP do the same grommet complete with 'pin', so there must be a reason for it. Given that the carb box is going to sit on the casing, I'm inclined to have it hidden
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Post by vespasco on Oct 13, 2015 20:29:17 GMT
Check before hand, if you can, that this 'pin' clears the carb box and doesn't cause it to 'rock'. Im really not sure what this pin is, ive not actually seen it. I think silicone should be ok. Gasket paste/cement would be better if you have some. Its more likely resistant to fuels, oils. Make sure to clean and dry it all beforehand, try some petrol and then dry it.
Yes, do exactly that, wipe a small amount around the hole. Knock it in. Let all the excess gunk dry and slice it off with a sharp knife. You'll only want to do this once so double check everything and do it right. Otherwise I'd imagine it will be a bitch to get out.
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Post by henri on Oct 14, 2015 7:24:41 GMT
the pin is probably the stub were grommet was cut/lathed of the bar stock it was made from , either file it flat or fit facing down so it doesnt interfere with carb box sealing to cases . wouldnt use super glue but silicon ,you never know might want to remove n re-fit shaft 1 day . H
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Post by bignico2411 on Oct 14, 2015 8:55:08 GMT
vespasco, Henri, I'm going to give Beedspeed a ring this morning, get their take on it. If they can offer nowt, then I'll simply place it face down. And I will go down the silicone route, makes more sense than superglue!
Cheers
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Post by bignico2411 on Oct 14, 2015 9:55:09 GMT
Gents, spoke to Beedspeed, you were both right! The 'pin' is nothing more than residue from the machining process, serves no purpose and can be filed off
Cheers
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Post by bignico2411 on Oct 18, 2015 15:34:19 GMT
So, I put the carb back together and refitted box and carb to scooter. Kicked scoot over and, whilst it started first time, it revved like the feckin thing was going to take off. Adjusting the idle screw made no difference and I ended up having to turn the ignition off. Throttle wasn't stuck open, and I checked the slide when I had the carb out. Doing my head in, help required.
Cheers
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Post by djloone on Oct 18, 2015 15:56:24 GMT
You sure the throttle/carb slide was closed..not a kink in your throttle cable?
LOON-E
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Post by pxguru on Oct 18, 2015 16:04:10 GMT
My first thought is the box is not down properly. If I am understanding correctly, did you block off the autolube shaft hole and change to a non-autolube carb box?
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Post by pxguru on Oct 18, 2015 16:04:52 GMT
Air is getting in somewhere
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Post by bignico2411 on Oct 18, 2015 16:14:17 GMT
You sure the throttle/carb slide was closed..not a kink in your throttle cable? LOON-E I don't think so, Loon-E, but now you've mentioned it, I better check. I suspect it's the original throttle cable, so maybe it's worthwhile replacing it anyway?
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Post by bignico2411 on Oct 18, 2015 16:15:58 GMT
My first thought is the box is not down properly. If I am understanding correctly, did you block off the autolube shaft hole and change to a non-autolube carb box? I did block off the shaft hole, but I didn't change the box. Should I have?
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Post by pxguru on Oct 18, 2015 17:37:35 GMT
how did you get the autolube box back on with the hole blocked? It wont fit! There is no need to block the hole when keeping the autolube box
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Post by bignico2411 on Oct 18, 2015 18:31:31 GMT
how did you get the autolube box back on with the hole blocked? It wont fit! There is no need to block the hole when keeping the autolube box Ah jesus, I'm now feeling particularly stupid, as the bad fit will no doubt explain the air getting in and the fact that it was a real struggle to get the fuel pipe re-connected to the carb!!! Now that I have the hat with the big 'D' firmly in place, what's my best bet for putting it right? I'm not sure the blanking grommet will come back out again, so do I need to get a non-autolube box? I've seen some on eBay from India, but do any of the UK scooter places do them?
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Oil Leak
Oct 18, 2015 20:49:31 GMT
via mobile
Post by bigd on Oct 18, 2015 20:49:31 GMT
Nico, there is a metal ring attached to the underside of the air box, it lines up with the hole for the autolube drive shaft, did you remove the ring?
D
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Post by bignico2411 on Oct 18, 2015 21:07:53 GMT
Nico, there is a metal ring attached to the underside of the air box, it lines up with the hole for the autolube drive shaft, did you remove the ring? D Of course I didn't, D, I'm a f**kwit!! Does it need to be machined off, mate, or can I do it myself?
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Post by pxguru on Oct 19, 2015 3:11:06 GMT
Don't worry we all make the odd mistake. Just get it sorted. The cheapest way to fix this is just have a go at removing the removing the blanking grommet.
If you change the box the inlet hole is will not exactly match and you will need a new throttle wire in the carb. The grommet only needs to be installed if you are using a PHBH or similar carb which has a manifold without the blanking built in.
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Post by bignico2411 on Oct 19, 2015 8:24:43 GMT
Don't worry we all make the odd mistake. Just get it sorted. The cheapest way to fix this is just have a go at removing the removing the blanking grommet. If you change the box the inlet hole is will not exactly match and you will need a new throttle wire in the carb. The grommet only needs to be installed if you are using a PHBH or similar carb which has a manifold without the blanking built in. Cheers, guru, I do feel a bit of an idiot, though. Any suggestions as to how I might go about removing the blanking grommet? It's a pretty snug fit
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Oil Leak
Oct 19, 2015 9:16:14 GMT
via mobile
Post by bigd on Oct 19, 2015 9:16:14 GMT
Nico the metal ring just pulled out with a set of long nose pliers, no need to take the blanking grommet out mate.
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Post by pxguru on Oct 19, 2015 9:34:37 GMT
Bigd, You know which type of grommet he used? Your option might not work depending on what type it is.
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Post by bignico2411 on Oct 19, 2015 9:47:37 GMT
guru, big D, this is the grommet I used: grommet
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Post by pxguru on Oct 19, 2015 9:58:34 GMT
This type will fit flush with the gasket face. Pull the ring out of the carb box or bang the grommet in even further. Did you use any glue or silicon?
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Post by bignico2411 on Oct 19, 2015 10:07:56 GMT
This type will fit flush with the gasket face. Pull the ring out of the carb box or bang the grommet in even further. Did you use any glue or silicon? Used some gasket paste. I'll pull the ring out tonight if the weather is good to me
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Oil Leak
Oct 19, 2015 11:00:25 GMT
via mobile
Post by bigd on Oct 19, 2015 11:00:25 GMT
Bigd, You know which type of grommet he used? Your option might not work depending on what type it is. I think Nico used the same one I told him about, same as the one I used mate. D.
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Post by bignico2411 on Oct 19, 2015 11:06:28 GMT
Bigd, You know which type of grommet he used? Your option might not work depending on what type it is. I think Nico used the same one I told him about, same as the one I used mate. D. I did, D, but I got it from Beedspeed, not SIP
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Post by bignico2411 on Oct 19, 2015 18:28:53 GMT
guru, D, spent an hour before dinner sweating, swearing and getting feckin' nowhere trying to remove the metal ring. Even tool the autolube mechanism off to see if I could shift it from that side. No joy. As an alternative, could I flatten the ring inward so that bit of the box sits flush against the casing? This is doing my head in!!
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Post by bigd on Oct 19, 2015 19:20:53 GMT
With the autolube mechanism off can you get at the inner edge of the ring with a screwdriver or fine point punch and tap it off from the inside?
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Post by bignico2411 on Oct 19, 2015 19:53:47 GMT
With the autolube mechanism off can you get at the inner edge of the ring with a screwdriver or fine point punch and tap it off from the inside? Yes, D, you can see the inner edge. I never thought of using a punch, just went at it with long nose pliers. I'll dig one out, and a hammer, and try that tomorrow! Cheers mate!!
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