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Post by pxguru on May 12, 2017 4:02:57 GMT
Very unlikely to be the bearing.
Probably just the 5 wheel nuts not tight!
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Post by pxguru on May 12, 2017 4:02:07 GMT
Looks like you found your problem. 80 psi is terrible. Not good is less than 120 psi. Surprised it starts. You might get away with new piston rings. Or just get a 172 kit
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Post by pxguru on May 12, 2017 3:54:29 GMT
1. A wire brush and 'Kurust' is the best thing for rust www.hammerite.co.uk/product/kurust/2. Halfords sell Kurust and a matt black exhaust paint that is as good as any 3. No need to disconnect so much. Rubber bellows off the carb box, Centre stand on one brick each side, Back tyre off, Exhaust off, an axle stand under the number plate and rear shock blot out and swing the engine to the floor If you go the full 1.0mm, put at least a 112 main jet in. Hopefully it runs spluttery and lower it a jet at a time from there.
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Post by pxguru on May 12, 2017 3:44:37 GMT
I would change to a 35 Watt at the earliest opportunity......before you blow the regulator up
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Post by pxguru on May 12, 2017 3:42:06 GMT
For all out there with a Malossi 210 that is the fastest thing ever in 3rd but a huge disappointment in 4th (even if you have a T5 36 tooth cog already), this T5 gearbox, with the 22/68 primary will give you the scooter you always wanted
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Post by pxguru on May 12, 2017 3:37:20 GMT
If all is as usual, then the clutch just needs tightening. Under the engine near the exhaust down pipe. Wind the adjuster out about one or two whole turns. Do it before you start it or you will burn your fingers.
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Post by pxguru on May 10, 2017 12:58:46 GMT
Scoop looks quite cool but I think it would hit the panel. Two big guys going to a rally can get the gear selector to hit the panel. Not sure the suction side is the issue though. I think the curved fin fan and a better ducted head cowl will help more. I have a straight fin PK 125 flywheel on my 221, so I am in the same boat there.
Did you try Jim's one on the plug ring yet? See how high that reads? If it is confirmed that the temperature really is that high, although it runs fine it it still not ok. When there is no other answer, retarding the timing will help. If you really cant get the temperature down to a steady 150C then I would try timing next. Looks like the jetting is still slightly rich so there is still hotter to go!
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Post by pxguru on May 10, 2017 3:17:53 GMT
If the oil is nice, dark and similar thickness to how it went in, then unlikely to be a crankcase issue.
There is something making this weird though. It just isn't that difficult to set a mixture screw in the middle, to not bog when revved and still start when hot.
Compression would be then next thing to check.
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Post by pxguru on May 8, 2017 15:23:20 GMT
I think from last time that the 0.2mm gasket didn't reduce the rpm a great deal but it will help. The issue is those aux ehaust ports. They look like "who cares" but they do make all the difference with rpm. They do tend to coke up badly, so will block on their own if left long enough.
The two GS rings in one slot would be better than what you have but the ring gap would be in the same place so would perform more like a single ring. If you are buying the rings a piston kit isn't so much more.
Try to keep the revs down. If 4th gear gap does end up as a big issue you can easy change the clutch cog 20, 21 & 22 all fit.
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Post by pxguru on May 8, 2017 4:16:42 GMT
All going in the right direction again. Once you get it all jetted in you might want to think about getting that thin base packer back out. 8,000 rpm action on those fat piston rings is about the limit.
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Post by pxguru on May 8, 2017 3:40:56 GMT
Had time to think it over and I really think this head cowl is a big part of my temperature issue. The way that MRP head splits into top and bottom most of the air flow from the standard cowling is directed at the bottom fins and not so much for the top. www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/cylinder+head+mrp+px200+race+_22159419This head is 11.2:1 on a 57mm crank but 12.2:1 on a 60mm crank. Quite high compression but not too much. The 0.8mm head gasket is reducing the compression too far now, so in the final version I think I will use a thinner one and be more like 11.9:1 and that drops the trapped compression back in the zone too. Not going to get a chance to fix this for a while but I will report back when I do. In the long term I would think about moving your air filter. The hotter under panel air is a slight issue but worse is the cooler air comes from the road level. If the filter works well it is little concern but if you are touring in the rain there could be a possibility of the filter getting wet. Edit: I have done some big sums and determined that the compression is not so bad. Slightly too high but not so much. Next revision will be 12:1 The missing power: Is the exhaust port shape of the standard 210. The calculations concur. I thought it was worth a go as you can't put the metal back but it's sh**e. Keeping the blowdown duration near to as it is, I'll reshape the whole port and that will fix it. Almost certain ;-)
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Post by pxguru on May 8, 2017 3:23:34 GMT
Seems like you are having too much trouble for a normal issue. They are just not that sensitive. I think you have an air leak somewhere and as ever when there is no other cause it is often the clutch oil seal. How is the gearbox oil level?
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Post by pxguru on May 7, 2017 12:44:13 GMT
Have you checked your pilot jet is clear? There is tiny hole right in the end of the jet that often gets blocked. Sometimes it will only clear by poking something through it
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Post by pxguru on May 7, 2017 10:29:36 GMT
Still getting hotter than it should when ridden hard. Much better with lower compression but still hotter and not as fast as the old iron barrel was. I think you are onto something with the head cowl. It is necessary to cut lumps of to get the MRP head on. And it's centre squish so has a huge hole in it for that. I think I'll patch up the gaps and rework it in general. Pop riveted aluminium palates? or any other suggestions?
Missing power: I think one issue is that it has a two degrees less blowdown duration than the Polossi and another issue is the Malossi 210 exhaust port has that rounded shape, which means even less blowdown width. These might even be not helping the temperature if too much exhaust gas gets left in each stroke. When I next get time I will fix these two issues first. The Polossi exhaust port was so huge it wouldn't have looked out of place on a Lambretta forum. Now I have tried it and don't like it, I don't mind so much.
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Post by pxguru on May 7, 2017 10:12:23 GMT
Maybe the air filter is not a T5 one! I thought all the T5 ones were drilled from the factory.
Bogging on pull off might be flooding on pull off. Try the mixture screw wound nearly right in (in is weaker) and see what happens
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Post by pxguru on May 7, 2017 9:35:46 GMT
That's good news Soon time to carefully up the power. I've been waiting a long time to see you change the AC. Did you cross over the gauges between stud and plug for another run to cross check? Pretty cool that you cam make a sensor that works!
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Post by pxguru on May 7, 2017 4:57:09 GMT
The Dremel right angle will go into a 200 but is difficult to work. There are cheap Chinese Dremel 575 copies that will fit better. I am in the market for a new one too. Think I'll try for the Proxxon as well!
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Post by pxguru on May 7, 2017 4:48:39 GMT
Why is the mixture screw out so far? Any more than 3 whole turns indicates that there is some issue, somewhere. The mixture screw does only affect tickover and just opened throttle, so rough low down is something else.
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Post by pxguru on May 3, 2017 8:04:56 GMT
Took her for a run to Brighton yesterday to get some sea air and me to have some chips on the pier. Didn't go anywhere near the cliffs even though the temperature at motorway cruise was gently climbing all the time. I stopped a few times to tweek the jetting and it ended up obviously rich, even with this it was still getting slightly hotter than I would like after cruising for several miles. At cruise rpm ignition timing is not an issue, so this only leaves cooling or compression. Cooling is better than fine on a PX made for Italian weather. Came home through the villages without incident. So it had to be compression. This MRP head is still new to me and is supposed to be about 12:1. I had a 0.8mm head gasket handy so quickly fitted that and returned the jetting to how it was. A quick test ride later and its all good. Was doing 67mph in 3rd and touched 77mph on the bypass and still only averaging 280F, which means I can drop the needle another half clip to bring the temperature up to where the power is. At least it is now quicker than your 180; still slower than the Polossi at it's best but its early days
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Post by pxguru on May 1, 2017 12:57:09 GMT
Well that didn't take long to run in It jetted in so well. To ride around town you would think it was a standard engine on an SI carb. As it stands: 52 Pilot, B56 pilot atomiser, DQ261 main atomiser, 152MJ, 55 slide, K93 needle (clip 3 from top) Runs at about 275F generally and just 300F at WOT. As I sort of expected, it isn't so fast. Runs great pulls really good, goes up hils at 60 mph in 4th and doesn't slow down but wide open just about manages 74mph (gps). Seems to struggle to rev and will just get to 8000rpm (64mph) in 3rd, this is just not enough. Needs more power. Will have a think about how to find some, without losing too much of anything else.
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Post by pxguru on Apr 29, 2017 8:39:17 GMT
I would say the ally Polini 221 with a 60mm crank is the perfect choice for touring
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Post by pxguru on Apr 29, 2017 8:37:00 GMT
If just changing the inner, the hardest part is getting the old inner cable pulled out..
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Post by pxguru on Apr 29, 2017 8:27:41 GMT
As I see it the difference between a 221 barrel and a 210 barrel is where the ports are. With the extra 3mm on the stroke it is nesasary to raise the barrel to stop the top ring coming out. How much it is raised depends on what port timing your expected riding requires and how much metal you want to be grinding out. At the bottom of the ports there is way less choice, they all need to be moved down by half the stroke increase plus thickness of the chosen base packer plus or minus any factory porting error (so BDC is flush with the ports). So a 221 barrel has the ports moved down. In Europe they run Vespas 50,000 Km on the same piston. I would think anything over 25,000 miles is pretty good going. The old Malossi 210 barrel is great but the ASSO piston is the issue. I believe it was changed later in the design by Malossi. Maybe the original was some other piston. As it is the frame side transfer lines up great but the out side transfer is 3mm out. The reason for this is that the barrel has mirrored transfers (exactly the same but mirror opposite). The ASSO piston however has the same recess each side (no mirror) as the gudgeon pin is in the way and doesn't line up (so the error is ground off the piston for the frame side). Been riding her around plenty. Should be about run in by tomorrow. Goes so well. Standard 200 gearbox (with original 35 tooth 4th) and the 3rd to 4th change pulls just as hard as 2nd to 3rd does. I doubt as fast as the Polossi but my records show that was rev 13 by the time it cracked
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Post by pxguru on Apr 28, 2017 12:27:32 GMT
I haven't been lazing about. The malossi is now running Welcome to the 21st century! Ported the Malossi to a reasonable level. I don't think I did quite enough but will have another go at tweeking the porting once it is run in. Before After While at it I got all the other outstanding jobs done. New clutch plates and springs (same type as before) Newly sprayed un-dented mudguard New sprayed old style horn cover Millenium centre mat New brake fluid Matched the Malossi base ports to the Polossi cases New base packer I kept the jetting the same as the Polossi. Just dropped one needle clip so far but keeping it rich. The 60 pilot is too big though. Will change that for a 56 and see how that goes. All in all, 50 miles into a short running in period (200 miles) and it feels like it has potential. Liking the ally barrel though, warms up quick and is a good bit cooler running but we will see how that it stands once its at WOT. Seems much quieter but that will be the rounder exhaust port (might change that later).
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Post by pxguru on Apr 25, 2017 6:25:24 GMT
The way it used to run so much cooler does point to the CHT gauge being garbage. You do need to be sure though. As it leans out further it will read even hotter.
Next step is the progression and idle mixture; confirming hot starting is good. It's after that where I think you will need leaner than the AC160
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Post by pxguru on Apr 24, 2017 7:54:55 GMT
The point was added for discussion. I was just thinking that even if your gauge is reading 20C high and you just had a dark plug on a near WOT chop at 152C, is still not quite correct. Options are that the gauge is more out that we think, the rich lower throttle jetting is confusing the plug colour or there is too much mixture being burnt for the cooling to cope with and it really is getting that hot. That plug colour would normally say about 130C, the question is does it feel and smell hot when it shows 172C? There were no detonation marks on your old piston, so timing is in the zone but a few degrees might make all the differance to the temperature. Really close to airing the tent out
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Post by pxguru on Apr 23, 2017 10:51:40 GMT
No point leaving things unfinished when you have done so much work already!
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Post by pxguru on Apr 23, 2017 10:47:59 GMT
Sounds like it is all going well. If after after adusting the pilot and mix so the tickover and progression are great and there is still a splutter as the revs pickup, then you will need the AC180 and BE3+2
Those plugs look dark for those temperatures. Another thing to ponder is that your cylinder head just may not be able to cool that much power, even when it is jetted correctly. If this is happening the only thing to do (even without signs of detonation) is back off the timing. If she is really getting near the 172C then there will be an over heating type smell when you stop, which could help confirm the temperature reading is more correct.
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Post by pxguru on Apr 23, 2017 9:54:18 GMT
122MJ is quite small. Burbling funny on the rpm run down after a long run is usually a sign of over heating.
As suggested; compression check, confirm it starts well from hot, check WOT plug chop again and if all ok put in a new spark plug
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Post by pxguru on Apr 18, 2017 7:33:02 GMT
Another back on the road. Lovely looking scooter. If you ever want to sell it be sure to offer it to me A couple of points that from looking at the photos that would make it perfect; Hub nut cover missing, front link cover missing, wrong kickstart for the scooter and the helmet hook is upside down. Take it easy running in and be sure you can feel it splutter as it revs higher.
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