garyp
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 26
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Post by garyp on Mar 1, 2008 18:54:08 GMT
Hi all Spent most of today being bamboozled by paintwork.  Firstly went to my local auto paint shop who kindly provided me with a can of Baccarat 381 for my PX and some lacquer. This job went pretty much ok but the match is still a shade or 2 out, despite being accurate to the Piaggio code. Oh well, looks like I'll be painting the whole 'guard. More frustratingly, I've sanded down and am trying to paint the fork and the disc hub. Despite getting pretty much back to bare metal, (which took bloomin' ages), the primer crazed and lifted when I sprayed them!  What's going on? Anyone else had this problem? Have had to shut the garage door and walk away as I'm out of time and paint and the missus is fed up with me ranting and spending all day with the scoot. I'm thinking of trying silver, smooth finish, spray can Hammerite. Anyone used this before and if so, are the results any good? All help appreciated, all sarcastic comments tolerated  Gary P |
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Post by jaz on Mar 3, 2008 19:44:37 GMT
Hi Gary. Even if you've got exactly the right shade the paint on your bike has weathered a bit so it will be difficult to match. If it's a metallic colour even more so. You'll certainly find it shouts out less if you paint the whole guard. When you say 'pretty much' back to bare metal, in my experience (cleaning 200 coats of all sorts off my 152L2  if you're not sure what kind of paint was on the bike you need to get it all off to be sure it won't react with the new stuff. You'll need to get all that crazed stuff off as well now. I used a scraper, rotary wire brushes and a shedload of Wickes paint stripper. It's a horrible job, I know, but you've got to try and imagine how it'll look when it's done  Silver Smoothrite looks fine for painting wheels, your hub etc and is reasonably durable. The nice thing is that it goes on over most things without too much drama. |
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Post by elviswasamod on Mar 3, 2008 19:59:15 GMT
hi, jaz as a paint sprayer myself you shoulden really use scrapers wire discs etc as ive seen some horrible results
in scratched metal that shows through the paint and as for painf stripper a waste of time and money its easier and cheaper to get the thing blasted all comes up like new it will even get rid of any rust hope this helps ferdy,
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Post by jaz on Mar 4, 2008 0:05:52 GMT
Well, I was pretty careful and the frame's primered up now and you can't see any scratches so maybe I got lucky  |
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Post by elviswasamod on Mar 4, 2008 0:10:20 GMT
thats good to here as its a ball breakin job stripping by hand
if you ever use those wire discs that go in electric drill always make sure there the soft brass ones which are softer metal than your frame
i rememember back in the 80s a mate of mine totally stripped his rally 200 with a extra hard metal wire disc it certainly done the job but even about 20 coats of paint would cover the scratches it looked like torvill n dean had had a go, anyway good luck on its rebuild what paint are you going to use ,2k is the best very hard wearing cheers ferdy
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Post by jaz on Mar 4, 2008 2:03:06 GMT
The cup brushes I used were pretty soft really, they soon shed all their bristles in support of the cause. This is what I was dealing with:  That is a closeup of the one of the legshields just after I got it - God alone knows how many coats of paint all topped off with a layer of the finest Dulux applied with a yard brush. At the time I'd been put off blasting by a mate who'd warned me about possible distortion, so I scraped as much of the crap off as possible using paint stripper and then the rotary wire brush to get the remaining bits off. It worked OK, but I take your point - if this was a concours resto I probably shouldn't have done this - but in my defence: 1) This Vespa was in such a state that were it not for the family connection it would probably only really have been fit for spares and 2) I know sod all about rebuilding Vespas and have been dutifully making it up as I go along ;D If the truth be known I've never even ridden one! It's going to be a bit of a culture shock after my modern 12" wheeled automatic 4-valved 4-stroke technological wonder... I can't wait! Won't be using 2 pack as I'm doing it myself - I've got an Apollo turbine sprayer, I sprayed my old camper van with it and it came out pretty well. I'm not too bad with it, but equally not expecting show winning results. Probably going to go with synthetic coach enamel... |
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Post by bryno on Mar 4, 2008 14:25:18 GMT
garyp, did you use etch primer on the fork/hub, if it was down to bare metal you really need that to adhere to the metal..
Anyway, should not crack/craze unless you put it on way too thick, be sure to clean down with white spirit or similar before you apply paint.
Smoothrite is ok, durable, but it's not as 'nice' a finish as acrylic with a top coat of lacquer though probably closer to the original look.
Also takes a fair while to dry so you need to keep it out of the way of dust for a good few hours..
Hope all goes well next time!
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Post by peterwatson on Mar 13, 2008 15:36:36 GMT
might have synthetic paint under celly
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Post by peterwatson on Mar 13, 2008 15:38:04 GMT
sorry also dont put too many coats on at once,let it dry between coats
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What's going on? Anyone else had this problem?
if you're not sure what kind of paint was on the bike you need to get it all off to be sure it won't react with the new stuff. You'll need to get all that crazed stuff off as well now. I used a scraper, rotary wire brushes and a shedload of Wickes paint stripper. It's a horrible job, I know, but you've got to try and imagine how it'll look when it's done 
