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Post by sime66 on May 11, 2014 8:23:25 GMT
This follows on from ‘No clutch, no gears, grey oil’ & ‘Self-Destructing Clutch’. I’m stripping it to inspect before deciding what work is needed after the clutch disintegrated, and I’ve split the casings because of the odd oil colour, and the ground metal in the oil. Bear in mind I am a novice, I am not looking to do jobs that don’t need doing, but I don’t want to put it back together (if ever I manage that) without dealing with everything that needs doing – I don’t want to be repeating this in a job hurry. Also worth noting that although I don’t deal with the bloke who was last in this engine, I must admit that, as long as he was sober and not rushing at the time, he will have done a better job of seals and bearings that I can ever hope to achieve, so I don’t want to undo any work that I might make it worse from my novice attention. If they do need doing, I will find help for that. Here are the photos of the split casings, each seal and bearing as I found them, and the crankshaft, primary, and gears. I’m stopping now, hoping that I get some guidance of what needs doing, and where to go from here. I can take more or detailed photos as I go if anything in particular needs closer inspection or disassembly. I do hope some clever blokes have some input because I’m already out of my depth, and I must confess a bit nervous. Here we go then; photos:
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Post by pxguru on May 11, 2014 9:21:55 GMT
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Post by sime66 on May 11, 2014 11:30:55 GMT
That’s great news, and really useful links too; thanks very much for that. Was going to start cleaning everything, so I’ll get a big bottle of Gunk and some carb cleaner. I’m going to do a SIP order when I’ve got as much of the bits and pieces as I can think of together, so you’ve started me off with that job too. - Any suggestions from anyone for things to add is very welcome. I’ll tap the rivets down on the primary; I did give it a shake and there's no nasty rattles. As whether my crank is re-useable or not is debatable, the long crank does appeal if I can afford it when I’ve assessed job as a whole, especially if I’ve saved money on the other seals and bearings, but not forgetting that a decent clutch might be better use of available cash, but I am also wondering what the knock-on effects are: . Will it mess up my squish? I only ask because it is a subject I’m aware of, but have no idea about doing yet. . Will it change my timing? Again if it means a more complex rebuild, I might be happier getting it working again before I make too many changes to what I think was basically a well-working set-up. (Reliability over tuning, after an expensive year). . Would it be also tuning that’s going to put more strain on my clutch before I’ve upgraded that item properly? I think that all needs a bit of thinking about and investigation. I’ve got the gears off. There’s a little burr on the end of the rod, which is stopping me from pulling it out completely, so I suppose I’ll have to try to file it down a tiny bit to get it out, but for now I’ve photographed the crux as best I can. I imagine it’s wise to change it, as I’m this far. Anyway, you’ve calmed my nerves down a bit. Thanks pxguru.
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Post by sime66 on May 11, 2014 13:21:29 GMT
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Post by pxguru on May 11, 2014 13:28:20 GMT
Cruciform is not so bad but might as well put a new one in. Gear cogs looking well from here. A 60mm crank in yours will need the 1.5mm packer on the base gasket (buy from SIP or make out of some ally sheet). Timing exactly where it was before (I.T. Mark) and main jet 10 bigger than before. You will be fitting what is essentially a PX200 Cosa clutch with 21 teeth. You will only damage it by doing clutch wheelies SIP sell them pretty cheap fully assembled ready to go. You could save up for a banded basket for next time. before I forget, when you re-assemble, put the kickstart quandrant back in the side casing and bolt on the lever BEFORE you put the casings back together. It is not usual to take out the quadrant.
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Post by rab on May 11, 2014 14:17:56 GMT
there is swarf all over the cogs the largest one that you have a pic of the rear showing the bearing looks to be a tad dodgy to me as its scored and the wear on it doesn't look right id suspect that to be were the metal is coming from
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Post by henri on May 11, 2014 14:37:54 GMT
as pxguru said it all looks ok to go ,your primary bearing (bottom of xmas tree) looks like its picked up some swarf,maybe my eyes/photo's.give it a really good clean with petrol an small paintbrush rotating it as ya do,an a final blast out with carb/clutch/brake cleaner.then give it a spin an listen/feel for any roughness/tight spots.as you couldnt of done any miles without a clutch it shouldnt of got any major damage.the crank bearings/seals should be re-usable as is,but worth spinning the bearings to check whilst there out. its always good practice to put a new cruciform in ,but yours looks nearly new/unworn enuff i'd probably leave it in,if it was my scoot. as youve not got any rattles from ya primary i'd leave the rivets alone,its a bit of a "feel" job to know wether there tight/loose enuff .an ya dont want to make more jobs for yourself on a first engine strip.stick to de-burring an cleaning an whacking it back together then riding it til ya break it again.an if ya wondering is it clean enough ,think operating theatre clean,draughtsman doing blue-prints clean,an when youve got outside/inside an components that clean,clean em again it cant hurt.an dont forget clean the workbench/kitchen table/floorspace your going to re-assemble it on aswell.i usually spread a small plastic tarp ive scrubbed an dried over my bench so the engine cant pick up any dirt/swarf from it.oh to have a double garage eh,1 side for dirty/grinding/welding/stripping an other side clean for building/painting.at least scoot engines are small/light enuff to do in the kitchen if your without a shed/garage eh. an a bunch of flowers an big grovel to the missus is well cheaper than a double garage .if your planning on warming cases in oven an freezing crank to make slippping em together easiest,its worth getting some turkey self-basting oven bags,my local 99p store does 4 for, yep you guessed it, 99p,an there big enuff to stuff cases into then 100degrees for 20-30mins in oven an there ready to serve?an ya dont have a stinking oven an petrolly food.i also put crank in one with a good blast of wd40 before stuffing in freezer overnight ,it helps to stop any moisture frosting on the steel an causing rust later if not totally cleaned off . also on the subject of cleaning,i use gunk to get most of the crap off outside of casing ,an then a baby bath i found in a skip ,with fairy liquid an really hot water to get cases spotless,so hot that you need thick rubber gloves to stop scalds on hands,then a rinse under running cold tap an a spray of wd40 an wipe over with clean rag ,to stop water causing the ali to furr up.but thats with cases with bearings/seals out,with yours i'd gunk outside an wash with petrol inside as you'd never get all the water out of bearings an you wouldnt believe how fast polished steel will rust up. an as there pennys you might aswell put new kickstart stops/rubbers in before putting quadrant back in ,make sure there fully in an wont stop cases mating together right.there like the cruccy,cheap to replace an worth doing as to have to re split the cases just to do them is a total b**l-ache.i know i said i'd prob re-use your cruccy,but i'm incredibly tight an want my moneys worth out of something an then some.an also enjoy pulling stuff apart in my shed,so any excuse to smoke/swear/fart/listen to good tunes in my shed,is welcome to me,most of you guys on this forum love to ride ya scoots an downtime is bad,i'm 1 off them funny buggers who aint happy less he's got at least 1 scoot n 1 bike in bits in the shed an the 1's im riding have been stripped n built by me,so i know there right,have thought of starting my own religion SHEDOLOGY, got as far as 3 commandments !. 1 all are welcome . 2 no stubbing fags out on floor or spitting on it . 3 no smoking near fresh paint . reckon thats all we need an i'm easy about anything else .what ya reckon,wanna be my first "convert", Henri
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Post by henri on May 11, 2014 14:50:26 GMT
jus read rabs post an dont agree with him ,i think the swarf is clutch shrapnel an the scores are were swarf has been trapped between it an cases an isnt anywhere crucial ,the gears themselves look fine an with little or no wear/burrs/chips .hard to say definetly without them in my hand but they look fine to me .each to there own opinion an not trying to start a fight rab ,eh. maybe rabs seeing something my crap/old eyes cant pick up .h
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Post by henri on May 11, 2014 15:11:47 GMT
rabs post made me go over the photo's 1 more time ,an noticed in first photo it looks like ya mount rubber is going on 1 side ,might be the photo angle .the hole is supposed to be fairly central with even amount of rubber all round ,yours look collapsed/worn on the top if engine was in scoot .dont worry if there shot ,its not a hard job to do an they aint mega-bucks to buy ,the tricky bit is getting old ones out ,but a lot easier on px's than earlier vesp's where there a total b**l-ache an then some .so long as center tube isnt right through the rubber an rubbing on outer metal you can leave job for another day .it can be done with motor in scoot but is loads easier with engine out so if there's any doubt about how long they will last nows the time to do them.although they are loads tougher an long lasting than they look an have to be really bad before failing a mot or radically affecting handling/suspension.but to much play in them puts extra strain on rear shock top mount rubber making it more prone to fail. apart from that 1 thing ,i stand by earlier post an cant see any horrors in photo's an would be happy to re-build an run that if it was my scoot ,an i can be a picky bugger, also you might not want to use the drunk mechanic again but at least he put decent (rolf) seals in ,not some no-name budget crap . H
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Post by pxguru on May 11, 2014 16:09:21 GMT
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Post by sime66 on May 11, 2014 17:14:06 GMT
Thanks everyone, I’m better off concentrating early in the morning, than in the evening, so I’ll have a really thorough go through it all in the wee small hours again, when it’s quiet, but a few things I can quickly reply to: Rab, I see the swarf on the primary bearing. There was no swarf that big in the oil, or in the casings (that metal was more like a sludge). That swarf on the surface there isn’t part of the clutch falling apart, it’s from when I had a mad half-hour with the drilling of the clutch nut. It’s surface only, and not ground into the bearing yet. I reckon I can clean that up OK how H suggested. I did notice the wear on the cush-drive plate (or whatever the proper name for that bit is), but I’m not sure how crucial that is, maybe just need to tap the rivets down a bit to be sure it’s all spinning clear of the casings; do you still reckon it’s bad? H, I’ll clean the primary bearing first job, spin, wiggle and generally get a feel for it, and take some more photos of it clean, but not tonight – just had a shower. I can squeeze the primary, and feel a bit of give in the rivets, but definitely no rattle. – Little tap, maybe. The flat is my domain – I can make as much mess as I like, and I have to clean it up too. I also have a twin-facility:– the kitchen AND the living room, plus a parts store; the bedroom. I am fortunate that I can send the girlfriend home if I’m getting ratty, or really need to make a mess or concentrate; I have my own ways of making up afterwards, that I’m sure you don’t really want to know about, but you might want to make rule 4 around it. Seriously though; I do take on board the necessity of keeping clean stuff clean, at some point soon, there will have to be a new system for keeping the two apart. Gunk on outside, petrol on inside – keep water out of bearings; understood. Ultra careful on the build, too. Oven and freezer are not currently garage accessories, and are things we’ll have to talk about later; it all sounds a bit scary at the moment, but I knowyou chaps do it. I had a quick look at the engine mount, and you’re both quite right; it’s a bugger, but I’m glad you spotted it – one side is 5mm and one side is 10mm; I’m not looking at the other end tonight because I’m clean, but I’ll put them on my shopping list. Pxguru, found the 1.5mm base gasket packer, and bigger jets (really up 10? - I’m on a 118 or 120 already). Deffo going for 21t Cosa clutch with my dremelled cover – happy with that decision; and deffo a banded one when I can afford it. Those links you gave correspond with the one’s I’d found, so that’s good. Whether the banded is for now or not is still unresolved. The one gear that I’m surprised no one has mentioned is the smallest gear on the driveshaft (top of Christmas tree); I’ll be delighted if it really is OK, but if it isn’t now would be a good time to draw your attention to it again, of all of them, I thought that was the worst, (apart from my crank butchery of course). I reckon that’ll do for now; I’ll be back at it early, and start by having a thorough read again. Cheers chaps; I didn’t expect much response on the weekend, but this lot has given me loads to get on with - very appreciative.
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Post by glscoot on May 11, 2014 18:10:57 GMT
All the parts are fine, the small end cog on the primary drive (xmas tree) is supposed to have the notches on it as for the scoring on the spring cover on the primary, thats nothing to worry about. Some of the early primaries didn't even have a full cover. If you cleaned up the thread on your crank it could be used, the drilled sections wouldn't cause a problem but there does look like a few bashed threads on there, which are a problem and may have been the cause in the first place, but whats the point in taking the risk again.
I use petrol to clean all my engine parts and if you can get a air gun to blow all the crap out of the casings and bearings you may not need to replace them, but I would replace the seals. Gary
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Post by sbwnik on May 11, 2014 19:33:38 GMT
The only argument I'd have would be about reusing the seals. For the price of them, and the time it takes to change them, I'd swap them for new ones. Run the bearings round to check for any sort of grumble/sticking (make sure that your fingers are in straight, it's easy to turn them at an angle and mistake the tightness for knackered bearings.
Putting it back together is really easy, but you've enough support here.
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Post by rab on May 11, 2014 20:46:22 GMT
i just thought there may be something out of line to do with the gears and how they were seating because of the swarf and wear but that has been explaind by the fact you caused the swarf playing with your drill. but it could have suggested a bearing not seated right or something out of line in that area . im happy with being corrected
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Post by sime66 on May 11, 2014 21:40:38 GMT
I'm going to have a better look first thing, but I think you might be on to something; not the cause of the initial problem, but something that needs sorting now I've been at it. My swarf may have caused more problems than I first thought, and got into that bearing; it does feel a bit rough on quick inspection, but that might just be because the needles are out. I'm going to take that bearing out and have a better look at it tomorrow. Cheers
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Post by sime66 on May 12, 2014 5:26:13 GMT
The story so far:
· The gears are good.
· The crank is probably best replaced, and I have several options based on cost.
· The primary might need a new bearing; I’m going to look at that shortly. No drama.
· I need a clutch, and I have several options based on cost.
Decisions over clutch and crank can wait a little longer, but to do each properly is £150, and I’m not able to add another £300 to this bill at the moment. In any case it seems a bit rash for this manky old scooter, especially as I don’t ride with the Club any more, so will probably cut right down on rallies; for now I really just want a reliable runaround.
The reason I hesitate over the seals is that for any of you it would be a quick, cheap job, but for me it is a possibly unnecessary job that has recently been done well, which, if I do it poorly, could mess up the whole reassembly and reinstallation. It’s actually the aspect of the job giving me most concern at the moment. If I hadn’t introduced the swarf by my drilling, I think I’d give replacing the seals a miss, but I’ve added to the problem, so it can’t be ignored.
I’ve slept on it (for about 3 hours) and I reckon I have the best plan, based on all your opinions:
I’m going to clean the casings in petrol with seals and bearings in.
I’m going to take them to the bloke who sorted my seized engine bolt.
That way I’ll get an opinion from someone who has skill/experience, and can look at them first-hand; and I’ll also get a feel for my confidence in him to do the job.
If we agree for him to do them, I can take the seals out and get him to give the bearings a blast with an air gun; I’ll need all new seals if we do that, and after a blast we’ll hopefully decide the bearings are OK. Once that’s decided, I can finish my SIP order, and maybe get some stuff here for the weekend, and during that time I can spend my evenings getting everything checked out and cleaned.
I reckon that’s what I’ll do.
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Post by sime66 on May 12, 2014 8:57:44 GMT
Decision made – all new bearings and seals, supplied by me, fitted for an hour’s labour. A wise move I think, and this bloke didn’t hesitate to shove a finger in and say change them.
It also means I can have a good go at properly cleaning the casings without worrying about the seals and bearings, which was already proving to be a bit of a palaver; it’ll be a lot easier now.
The final bit of dirty work this morning before I clean up and get on with some real work; I have the primary bearing off, and it is well rough. You were correct, Rab, well done.
I’ll be scouring SIP later for my bearings and seals, and any input on getting the tip-top best ones, and not forgetting anything would really be appreciated. I’ve got loads of other stuff to order in my trolley, so I’ll try and get a comprehensive list together as soon as I can without forgetting anything crucial.
I’ll stop posting waffle now, it sort of helps me think though.
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Post by glscoot on May 12, 2014 9:05:44 GMT
Im pretty sure Glasgow Lambretta do the best bearings/seals package for about £60 delivered. They will also do the cruciform and all the other small parts. There on ebay and in scootering. gary
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Post by bryno on May 12, 2014 11:45:53 GMT
Worth also checking bearing suppliers direct if you want to price check, I don't usually buy from a scooter dealer these days, once you know what the spec of the bearings are generally find cheaper at either simplybearings.co.uk or RScomponents.co.uk, SKF, FAG brands etc
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Post by vespasco on May 12, 2014 13:09:21 GMT
Im glad you decided to renew bearings and seals. Especially how cheap and easy it to fit seals at least. And especially after youve been wacking the crank.
Theres no possible way of checking seals and bearings are ok just from a photo. Check if they spin freely without being loose. If they bind at anytime when you spin them then change them.
Crank. If you go with a long stroke there's all sorts of other things to take into consideration. And from your posts you dont really want to start spending ££ to get it going. i think it will be never ending. Same with the head really.
Am i missing something here?? (Im on my phone so small pics) but that cruxiform looks absolutely f#@ked to me.
I would suggest that you have your crank measured for true straightness at a lical garage/engineering company. That will tell you if the crank is bent. From memory a 0.03mm tolerance is allowed but plz check.
Gotta go , my van is now out if the garage!
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Post by sime66 on May 12, 2014 13:37:39 GMT
Thanks for those, Chaps I don’t want to price check, I just want to get a good quality, full set of the right ones, if I mess that up I’m wasting money: It’s crucial that I get these seals & bearings right. Not so much the price, but getting the best make and quality, and getting a full set of the correct ones. I’ve contacted Glasgow Lambretta (twice) and asked if their set contains the primary or not. I've sent SIP a technical query and left a question on their forum. I’ve had my best guess through the minefield of the SIP webpages, both for individual bearings, and for sets. I’ve had a real good go at sorting it out, but I do not want to risk getting it wrong for the sake of a few quid, I just want to get them ordered and make sure I can afford it. I have done prices (below), but it’s the part/item numbers that I’m double-checking. Vespasco – thanks The long crank was a nice idea, but definitely not-affordable now I'm doing seals and bearings – that’s happening, decided. I’m trying to order the correct ones now, and I’ve arranged someone skilled to fit them all for me. – My only dilemma there is getting the right seals and bearings, which I’m trying to sort now. I’m not intending to re-use my crank; I’m looking into it. I’m getting a new crux. I’m trying to get my order(s) together, and then when I’m waiting for parts I’ll start stripping and cleaning everything. It’s seals and bearings I’m trying to sort now: Feeling a little out of my depth at the moment. Need to get a few things finalised and ordered, so I can chill out about it.
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Post by bryno on May 12, 2014 14:29:05 GMT
It'll all come together, you've got the right appraoch, Whoever you buy from just ask the brand and go with known brands, that's as much as you can do really, I'd not hesitate to use SKF, FAG or RMS (i think RMS are generally the cheaper and an OE stupplier to Piaggio). Not sure about those labled by the seller 'Piaggio' thats a bit vague, does that mean genuine OE? Dont rely on the shops online pics, 'some' people like to show you a nice branded bearing then send you something else For seals I look for Rolf if available, or for main crank seals the ones labled Corteco (IIRC) which are sold by SIP and I buy the most expensive option if there are 2 to choose from, makes me feel like i've done all I can....
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Post by henri on May 12, 2014 16:13:36 GMT
gaz is right about the small end gear on xmas tree ,they all look like that.vespaco the cruccy is the later efl flat 1 ,not the earlier notched 1 like ya rally's or early p series,prob why it looks bad on ya phone. sime,good you've seem to of found a competent mech-head for the jobs you dont fancy,he can tell much more than we can from photo's .the xmas bearing must of picked up swarf from clutch to be knackered as you say what me n rab differed over is drilling swarf.still a good catch rab an shows youve always got to check em an go with ya feelings .dont think there was a developing problem there that caused ya clutch detonation,my moneys on former mechanic re-using the circlip or fitting it wrong.over straining it or not getting ends tucked in right,there's a lot of details to get right building a engine.ya got to concentrate,go slow an methodical,an i always stand back at each stage an end of job,roll a "thinking stick",strictly amber leaf,an run through the job in my head an check off my work,i also check bench for any "extra" nuts bolts washers circlips that shouldnt be left over. for the work ya doin,an taking into account your reluctance to have to do it again for a while new seals is a no-brainer,try an get rolf 1's as there best for standard,for much higher states of tune the vitrol seals are better ,but at 30quid for no-name 1's an about 50 for named a bit rich. the standard piaggio's are i believe skf (indian) bearings in a piaggio box,scoot shops seem to want 20quid each for skf ,i get mine from bearing solutions or bearing boys ,cant remember which,an there 6.50 free postage for the ball an not much more for px roller flywheel side 1's,cant remember as recently ive only done earlyier types which have balls both side.fag are another good brand ,as are kymo? or something japanese like that,memory's bad today .any swedish or german bearings are usually the best,an most expensive,but steer well clear of american bearings especially "allballs racing bearings",they aint lying in there name as they are balls an not the "dogs" variety.my bike runs 3 wheel bearings an a sprocket carrier bearing in its back wheel.the original kymo sprocket bearing went an as allballs did a kit,4 bearings 2 seals,i pulled the wheel bearings aswell,even tho they were good,thought might aswell as i'm there.3500 miles later had to buy new kymo bearings as allballs were shot.buy cheap=buy twice. the price list you posted seems about right,if ive got the money i would use sip,german efficency pays,there quality isnt in doubt,theve never messed up 1 of my orders,always respond quick to my querys,no matter how obscure or bad my duetchlander speak,an its bad.an there postage isnt exorbitant,ive seen shops in england charging more.mostly tho as i pass close every week i use allstyles in portsmouth,as i'm tight an 3 miles out of my way is cheaper than postage.there prices are generally on the cheap side of average ,website n postal service is good,an the staff are all dyed in the wool scoot-nuts ,if ya slice down the middle theve got vespa/lambretta written like seaside rock.an have always seemed happy to answer questions either over phone or counter.an dont complain when every time i'm in i ask to look at the old-style handlebars on the wall,my mate wants em on his px,there 220quid but very-very pretty/shiny. if ordering bearings from a bearing supplier ,try an find out the oem number as then they will be right,an most o rings are standard sizes an cost 20-30p ,tho with postage ya better off just adding them to sip/shop order . when cleaning gasket faces ,a old penny, 2p is best ,new ones aint copper an are harder an can score ali,just hold em nearly flat to gasket face an be gentle,a scrap-end of copper pipe flattened is also good.an i never use gasket goop on gaskets,just good grease both sides,if it gets squiged into cases it just dissolves in the petrol/oil,an cant block any oilways/drains. cheers Henri
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Post by pxguru on May 12, 2014 16:42:37 GMT
Good call on changing all the seals and bearings. It's the right thing to do. You could have got away with it for a while for a bit of economy but I have to say if I was doing it myself it would be a full new set regardless of condition. I personally never buy a standard crank for anything, not even for a standard engine....
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Post by vespasco on May 12, 2014 16:51:29 GMT
+1 on the seals and bearings.
Different people have their favourites between metal or rubber clutch side seal. Just dont buy the cheap sets which sell for like £6!
With regard to the primary drive and rough bearing, its just a thought and i'm not trying to make you spend more money! but it may also be worth checking the springs inside the large cog. They could be broken. If need be you can buy a primary drive repair kit, preparing the unit by drilling out those rivets you mentioned earlier and take of the cover plate and have a look. I'm sure your mechanic will quickly and easily wack in the new rivets in properly.
Quality parts + quality fitting = quality vespa
Edit - dont forget you need new gasket set, oil etc
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Post by sime66 on May 12, 2014 19:16:53 GMT
Good progress, and you’ve all been really helpful yet again – thanks again. Got loads sorted today, and I’ll do some ordering tomorrow. Too many individual points to answer, but I've read everything carefully, and it's all sinking in. Edited highlights: Rolf, Corteco, SKF, FAG – Black, Blue, Brown – Metal, Rubber, American dogs balls, (my brain hurts). Subject to Glasgow Lambretta scoring a late goal, SIP are winning with Corteco/Rolf/Metal seals, but only Piaggio OE bearings, which include the primary bearing and rollers. I'll change to Glasgow if they answer me because there bearings are SKF/FAG/(& INA), but no one's mentioned INA, and they haven't said about the primary and I’m not chasing them again. The main thing for me is that I understand it much more clearly, and am doing my best to get the best. Gary, Thanks for all the info, I emailed you back this evening. Bryno, gone with as you said, except decided against RMS quite early on in favour of the better brands. Still holding out for a better option on the bearings as above; if I try again I’ll find better – not now though. Henri, I also favour SIP for a big order because the postage (tracked airmail last time for about a fiver) is negligible if you have a spend-up, and they are ultra efficient and reliable. Vespasco, I’m getting together a big list, and if I’m not giving you all the right hump by tomorrow, I might paste it here and see if anyone wants to add to it before I order. I expect you’ll enjoy spending someone else’s money! – I’ve trimmed it from £450 to £150 today by losing the long crank and reinforced clutch. Pxguru, I know you’d have me dremelling my ports and doing this, that, and the other to it, until I break it again, but for now I’m going to have to play safe and cheap. I think this stuff has to have priority, and I am genuinely out of cash with it now; it is going to be £400 anyway.
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Post by sbwnik on May 12, 2014 21:19:29 GMT
I think you're pretty much there - don't forget a gasket set, which I think should include any o rings you need.
I'd still reuse the crank as long as it's straight (no reason why it shouldn't be) as the damage is away from anything you'll thread onto.
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Post by sime66 on May 13, 2014 5:25:01 GMT
Cheers Nik, had a moment of doubt yesterday, but back with enthusiasm again. Today’s pondering is going to be getting this list as accurate and complete as I can, it’s also the last opportunity for Glasgow Lambretta to earn their seed, because tomorrow morning is ordering. I’ve got up early to concentrate on it, but SIP website is down – wasted my quiet time this morning. Here it is as it was last night; I’ll get on with it when they’ve had their sausage and coffee……… (That looks tiny - doesn't matter, it's out of date anyway.) Things to add (not necessarily SIP): · Loctite(s) – which types where? · Any gasket compound(s) – Note H says none at all? · Clutch bush, pressure plate, spring · M7 nuts · Kickstart rubbers · Primary circlip? · Smaller torque wrench – it’s not just the job that’s costing; I’m adding to my tools as I go too. (dremel, blow torch etc this time) That’ll do; still no SIP site – got to get on with other things
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Post by pxguru on May 13, 2014 5:28:01 GMT
I wouldn't be advising you to dremel any ports after seeing your drilling skills Fitting a 60mm crank in yours would all I would ever suggest for your set up and ability. To do this properly in the future will need crank seals and bearings again. If you are not buying a 60mm dont waste money and just use your old crank and spend the extra on the banded cosa clutch.
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Post by sime66 on May 13, 2014 5:35:09 GMT
I wouldn't be advising you to dremel any ports after seeing your drilling skills Fitting a 60mm crank in yours would all I would ever suggest for your set up and ability. To do this properly in the future will need crank seals and bearings again. If you are not buying a 60mm dont waste money and just use your old crank and spend the extra on the banded cosa clutch. Ouch! (I'll dremel my clutch cover - carefully - then that's it. Yes, Banded Cosa is No1 priority now though.
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