‘C’ spanners – shocks and steering.

[sime66]

Right chaps, I wonder if any of you seasoned shed-dwellers have a favourite tool for the steering bearing nut. I know there are the Socket type, the Wrench type, and the ‘C’ spanner type. I’ve discarded the whaking it with screwdriver and hammer option. I’m all for having the right tool, but they’re all a bit pricey, and I’m sure you chaps have answered this before advising ‘C’ spanners; even old bike ones (I’ve checked my old bike spanners but haven’t got that old crank-type spanner).

I’ve measured the nut, which is Ø40mm, so I reckon just a ‘C’ spanner off Ebay would be best bet, but are they better with a long handle for leverage, or is space tight in there when it comes to doing it? There’s also sets, which might solve both problems I have it in mind to sort with this little teaser of a question, the second on of which is;

I’ve also got those ‘C’ spanners for my shocks (about Ø50mm), which at first attempt didn’t seem to give me any leverage for adjusting the shocks, but which I might also use to make a custom tool for the steering.

That’s the waffle; here’s the questions:

1) Is a ‘C’ spanner best?
2) Is a long-arm one better or unwieldy?
3) Is it a good idea to make my own from a shock ‘C’ spanner? Leverage?
4) Is it a good idea to get a range of either long-arm or double-ended ones?
5) How to these shock adjusters work? – why can’t I adjust mine; are these tools rubbish, or am I doing it wrong?

The sort of idea I’m looking at on Ebay – I like Nooky’sNuts or PandaEngineering:



The modification I’d need to do to a shock ‘C’ Spanner if that would work:



The types available on SIP – if you want to spend a fortune:



Any clues? I think I’m going to start by cutting up a shock spanner with my NEW Dremel to see if that’s got enough leverage.

[mushroom]

I'd have gone for RIP4x4 ones at the bottom myself
Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and get the best you can
I've got to get a tool from SIP because I can't find another to unscrew the castle nut to get to the rear hub bearing on my VNB
It's £23 plus post and taxes and I doubt I'll ever use it again

Used to open and close the drive shafts castle nuts at oldie engines.

The SIP castle nut tool is used to open and close the drive shaft castle nuts of vintage Vespa models. In the course of time castle nuts with different notch layouts have been used. For that reason we designed the SIP castle nut tool in a way that it will simultaneously open/close castle nuts with different sets of notches. The tool for the 160 GS/180 SS is thus suitable for castle nuts with a distance of either 3mm or 5mm between their 9 notches. The tool for the 125 VNA/VNB will open and close castle nuts with either 8 or 9 notches. While both ends of the tool are equipped with cogs that will engage in the notches of the castle nut, it is - thanks to a square middle part - easily operated with a standard 1/2" wrench.
Result: Useful tool for the restoration of older Vespa models and an asset for any workshop.

[dannyspry]

Sime I did mine a few days ago with a pair of five hole grips...fitted and tightened fine without making a mess.

[shipscat]

i use both socket and c spanner because i found when i tightened the locking nut the crapy washer with a supposed locating tang that goes between the bearing race and lock nut turns , makes a mess of the fork threads and over tightens the bearing
i recommend a dab of medium strength lock-tite on the race nut too

[vespasco]

i d try the dremmeled C spanner first. i think it should work
as for leverage, if you cant lever it enough, use a length of pipe over the end
those sip ones are for various models
i do recall that when doing up the steering, you should give the bottom one 'x' amount (i cant recall just how much), then undo 1/4 of a turn, then tighten the top nut.
so , of course, you will need 2 C spanners
although yours do look a little flimsy, or maybe its just the pic
i had the use of a plasma cutter a while back and made a set (since lost) and also a flywheel holding tool (for SS180)

but yeh, ebay for a pair of cheapos and it will be so much easier when you come to swap your forks
take into account, they work very well, just like the castelled nut sockets, but only if the nut is in good condition, and hasn't has too much hammering from a screwdriver

[sime66]

Well done chaps; two spanners - think I'll make one and buy one.
(I'll be taking a possibly 30 year old one off, and fitting new(ish) forks, and all new bearings and collar nut etc. - when I do the swap to disc front-end)

I also recall the business of backing off the bottom before doing up the top so as not to overtighten the bearing; it's around here somewhere.....

Anybody want to help with part 2 of the question - these shock adjusters; I can pull my scooter over on top of me, but I can't turn the collar. I think I must be doing it wrong; am I supposed to take the strain off the spring first or something? I was trying to take my rear one up a notch, but she don't wanna shift......

[henri]

the buzzetti ring 1 for me ,number 4 , can also be bent to work on t5's/cosas n pk xl2 . did try the socket one like mushrooms ,but went cheap n not sip an tags broke on 2nd use .
but for adjusting up without totatlly removing headset keep a c-spanner an brass drift/hammer combo aswell . H

[sime66]

Thanks H; two votes for that type then.

Now:

"Anybody want to help with part 2 of the question - these shock adjusters; I can pull my scooter over on top of me, but I can't turn the collar. I think I must be doing it wrong; am I supposed to take the strain off the spring first or something? I was trying to take my rear one up a notch, but she don't wanna shift......"

[vespasco]

try going down a notch or 2 first, to free it up, it will be easier than going up, then try going up a notch, then another. even a bit of wd40?

My 'fancy' shocks (Bitubo (and Pinasco)) have the same thread/ C spanner nut arrangement as the forks.

[sime66]

I saw that the Pinasco shocks have the nice threaded adjuster; my Carbone ones are 'Entry Level' adjustable shocks. They're good and stiff; maybe they'll be easier to adjust when they're a bit more springy. I was wondering if you were supposed to take the load of it first, maybe with zip-ties on the spring or something. They're not going far with that silly little 'C' spanner for now anyway.

[vespasco]

i guess they either have a good strong spring,
or are set up tight to start with and adjust from strong, to stronger.....,to too much

Do you think it needs to be stronger? I mean, it must be pretty stiff already if you can't adjust it?

[sime66]

Nah, don't matter at the moment; just fiddling, but then wondered why I couldn't make it move.
They start on the least compressed, and I expected to wind it in as it got more springy.
The front one is on the disc forks in a box in the bedroom; I'll dig it out and have a better play sometime.

[braindrain]

I use this. so much easy heheh!