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Post by pxguru on Feb 13, 2016 8:58:36 GMT
If you have a spare BE3 then try a hole in it where the BE2 extra ones are. Drill and try one hole at a time. The BE2 holes will be too much but the extra ring of holes is about the level where more air is needed at 3000rpm. 1mm holes is a good size to start at. If there is no change after the hole is drilled right through and making two holes, then it might need a bigger air corrector too but then the whole set up is affected!
The problem with the holes for your diagram is that I dont think they are exactly linear with the revs but you could draw it that way just for the diagram.
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Post by sime66 on Feb 13, 2016 15:29:34 GMT
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Post by henri on Feb 13, 2016 16:40:00 GMT
looking good there sime ,am liking that seat with a sprint rack on it . an as somebody who managed his 1st little scoot about since new year last week i dont care if road was wet ,just so long as it was under my wheels . H
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Post by pxguru on Feb 14, 2016 8:15:10 GMT
Now it really looks like a tractor! Those tyres look a bit agricultural now they are fitted. Probably perfect for all the mud the farmers leave on the roads round your way.
Filter fits great. Probably won't get too damaged by the suspension travel either. It might be enough to clear the flat spot. Check the whole range again. be sure WOT is still good.
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Post by sime66 on Feb 14, 2016 10:20:03 GMT
….How Rude! ….Appropriate for the road conditions here, I'd say; you need to see them in their natural habitat: (Excuse the indulgence of lots of photos, but I love my scooter at the moment – even the tyres!)
Weather conditions: Precip: Cloud (100%), Sleet Pressure: 992mb Temp: 2ºC Wind: ENE – 12 knots, 22 knot gusts
I only had a quick 30km spin this morning, primarily to make sure all is well and to get some gentle wear on brand new tyres. A couple of times through the village, and twice just one junction on the dual carriageway; max temp was 123ºC, but not hammering it at all. I'd say in no danger of being too lean, and possibly still a bit restricted, but that's first impressions, and only a pretty gentle, careful ride. Had no speedo for most of it, so had to stop and shove the cable back up after having headset off (hence photo shoot – but not really the spring daffodils I'd hoped for). I'll record weather because it was unusual - quite wintry; but not really a significant ride, except to say there's nothing worrying me, so it's just tweaking and checking again; I think I will be trying the BE3 mod though. I'll do some better speed and temp runs in the week now I trust my tyres. Re filter: I don't know how long it might last, or how clogged it will get before it becomes a restriction; have to wait and see. If it proves to be a worthwhile change, maybe I'll get a vortex/filter combo when I replace it. Too soon to say.
Hope your sciatica clears up, H; and you get back in the shed and on the road soon............
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Post by sime66 on Feb 21, 2016 9:59:46 GMT
A quick update, though not much in the way of precise data really; I can feel what it's like and see the temps, and I don't intend to change anything until after the middle of next week because I feel it's safe to do a decent couple of long journeys as it is now, and I don't want to tweak it just before I need to use it properly in the bleak wilds. To be honest I've had enough of tweaking it for a bit anyway, and my deadline is here too. The RamAir filter, and taking the air from under the cowl, seems to restrict my air and give me warmer air from there too; so I'm getting pretty sluggish but splutter-free low-end acceleration, lower top speeds and higher temperatures (from the ambient air under the cowl, not the mix), but a rich-looking plug. I can use this seat without any low-end splutter though; so maybe it's just restricting at higher revs now, when it's not getting air quickly enough and what it's getting is too warm.
I don't want to spend more money on flash intakes at the moment, so I'm beginning to think I'll return to conventional intake and filter, and put the original seat back on – until I feel like tackling it again, which I don't at the moment. I've put a modified BE3 in (one Ø1mm hole), but with the restriction of the filter I don't feel much difference, and don't really think I'd get an accurate result by drilling another hole; not until the intake situation is sorted.
So basically, I know that the 48/160 & 132 and conventional intake gave me very good results; speeds, temps, plug, dyno graphs on previous page – and I can go back to that quite simply, and possibly improve it a bit with the BE3 mods too, but for now I'm living with it with this RamAir filter, which hasn't been an improvement, but I can't really be arsed to fiddle with it at the moment; I'll do these couple of long rides and decide whether to go back to how it was or persevere with the RamAir after those. I could invest in a vortex intake, I could play with the Air Corrector (I could open a spare 160 or try a 185, but it's going to make it hotter, so no good until I sort this intake anyway), I've reset my Pilot – mix/idle, but there's very few leaner jets to try, and right down there on the rich/lean table, I suspect something else needs sorting before changing the Pilot again because it was good before the filter change. It's great in the mid-range where I mainly ride, and climbing is strong, but I have modest low-end acceleration and top speed is not good either, but all that can be easily fixed by reverting to how it was when I got those good dynos, but right now I'm living with it as it is.
The tyres are great in the lanes; I'm very confident in them for gripping the road round the twists and turns. I think maybe I'm getting a bit more 'road-feel' at speed on the dual carriageway, also more noticeable with the less-springy seat, which doesn't bother me because I am not sitting at speed on the dual carriageway. With my new rear shock and these tyres, and maybe being a couple of inches lower with the seat, I'm getting a much better ride, and feeling more confident leaning it over at speed.
It needs a tweak to get the full benefit of the engine build back again, even if just back to before this filter change, but not at the moment; I'm open to any suggestions and questions before then though.
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Post by pxguru on Feb 21, 2016 12:34:11 GMT
Just a quick answer. Try the 185 air corrector and see what happens. To be cautious you will need a 135 MJ at the same time. If you have the drill bits I would try a 170 with 132 MJ first, then 180 with 135 MJ. Keep the cyclops BE3 all the time and this will make it ride a whole load leaner at the bottom end. If you can get the first 1/4 throttle perfect the rest is easy.
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Post by sime66 on Feb 21, 2016 18:01:54 GMT
Righto, thanks; I'll have a cautious tweak of AC and MJ next time, keeping the BE3+1: 170 & 132, 180 & 135, 185 & 135. I'll be back.......
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Post by sime66 on Feb 29, 2016 15:50:36 GMT
Still here..........been out playing in the sunshine! Had a play with a drilled ø1.7mm AC with the 132MJ, but nothing conclusive, and didn't want to fiddle too much at present, so keeping the other AC mods and tests discussed above up my sleeve for now (ø1.8mm & 135MJ etc....).......because I just got my hands on one of these, cheap off Ebay:
Details here:
www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/air+intake+system+polini+ve_20301520
A couple of questions arise (I'll be playing with it on the weekend, probably):
1) I wonder if the Polini filter is more restricting than the RamAir filter I already have, and whether I should start with the full Polini kit, or try it first with the RamAir filter, which is the full diameter of the carb box inlet, whereas the Polini filter has an adapter with a reduced diameter throat. - Easier to keep the RamAir and a bigger throat, but the Polini filter is designed for the 'Induction funnel', so probably best to use it.
2) I'm on a 132 MJ at present (but not brilliant, yet), the SIP write-up says:
“SIP-TIP : You will have to raise the jetting in your carb. for safe and enduring use of this performance extra. With original PIAGGIO cylinders the jetting should be increased by 5-8 sizes. In combination with performance orientated cylinder set ups your main jet needs an increase of between 10 and 15 sizes. This conversion functions especially well in combination with the SIP ROAD expansion chamber system.”
This suggests I should be back in the region of mid to upper 140s; I suppose it's back to starting rich and working down, so I reckon I'll go back to the BGM 140-162 MJ set and start with 148; any comments?
3) As this is also affecting velocity during the Idle and Progression range, will I need to be setting-up my Pilot before tweaking my MJ?
It's all thinking ahead for now; it hasn't arrived yet, and I have a long ride on Wednesday and won't be doing any tweaking until after that; probably on the weekend, so just getting an idea of what I need to do to get this set up right.
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Post by henri on Feb 29, 2016 16:04:30 GMT
as filters designed for venturi i'd start with that ,an if feeling brave later try the ram-air .an yes it should need a up on the main an will affect across the range ,so back to pilot jetting ,again . dont ya just love tuning . H
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Post by jimscoot on Mar 1, 2016 1:18:59 GMT
Ok Sime I thought you were pretty close with your standard air box setup and it's pretty hard to beat. I've tried the Polini Venturi and I must say..tread very carefully with it. I was running a 160main with my DRT mods it was spluttery rich and virtually unrideable around town and yet on the freeway it would run very hot and pink it's nuts off. Now it may be down to my polini setup I'm not sure but I'm very interested if you can tame the Venturi and make it work. Good luck and please keep us updated.
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Post by pxguru on Mar 1, 2016 6:00:33 GMT
How many miles on it now? Getting used to the speed yet?
I would just fit the venturi and keep the bigger Ram air filter. That little hole in the Polini filter is not big enough to feed The Beast!
I don't expect this will change the progression so much but it will need to be checked. It will make it need a bigger MJ and this is going to make the mid splutter worse! Will probably end up with some more holes in the BE3 and an even bigger corrector to fix that but this should be the end of it for the Summer.
Jimscoot, Did you drill out your carb yet? When running jets 140 or over, the carb won't behave until it's flowing properly.
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Post by jimscoot on Mar 1, 2016 7:53:41 GMT
Yes, I've done the DRT mods which includes the larger flow needle seat, spring loaded needle and the float hole drilled out to 1.8mm. I didn't want to risk drilling out to 2mm as this is really for 208/210 kits according to sip.
Like you say, you have to run it fat rich so it doesn't cook on the freeway but it's terrible around town (annoying)!!
I was thinking its the standard port timing of the Polini which prefers a sip road for torque. As soon as I run the JL it runs really nice when the power band hits but temps sky rocket. Would the Polini worb5 and GS piston help with running the JL
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Post by sime66 on Mar 1, 2016 8:02:57 GMT
1st March: I'm on about 1500km, but The Beast has chewed my speedo cable now, so temporarily not clocking up miles, just keeping track with MyTracks 'phone app. New cable on order - another weekend job, might do the rev counter while the headset is off too; it's wired-up through frame and tucked in the headset, I just have to make a bracket for them both. I agree with the logic of using the Polini filter, H, but keeping the RamAir is the easy option because I don't have to take the carb box off again so I'm going to justify it by saying that I'm doing it because it's a bigger opening because my baby needs plenty of air! - Talking of air I see these bigger carb box lids and now the inserts to raise the lid – for volume; it occurred to me that an autolube box and lid are bigger, so that might be an option. I have a couple in my spares, so that's a possible tweak too, I'd have to do the box mods for the inlet, but it might help having the bigger volume box if I still need air. Cruising round the lanes is excellent; just as I'd hoped with the undulating hills not bothering the engine much at all. Very wet and muddy on the roads with the surface water running off the moors and down the lanes even when it isn't raining, so being sensible though the tyres give me confidence (waiting for the K-Nuts though, so keeping an eye on wheels), but I'm climbing really well on long steadier hills at good revs, but the short, steep ones (20-25%) still need 2nd gear and find me sitting in that dodgy spot on the revs, or revving past and needing 3rd then not being able to pull in 3rd and fiddling about. Big long hills are bringing the temps quite high too, maxed 135ºC climbing over Bodmin Moor on a cold bright day with no dual carriageway, but it's a lot of work pulling me and a bag up a big hill I suppose. Plug is good – see below. You're right, jimscoot; it was spot-on with the standard box, but my lower seat doesn't let enough air through the frame. I'd still say I had better performance a few weeks ago with the old seat and conventional inlet and filter, but getting it breathing right now is what the venturi is for, and I still have that previous set-up to go back to quite easily if ever I need to, or if I want to put the old seat and a big rack on to carry a tent and stuff, but when I get this right the seat won't matter. But I'm out and about and loving it as it is as well. Because of that I'm perfectly happy spending more time tweaking all the jetting again now, and am happy to spend as long as it takes with getting it right with this set-up because it's already proved itself on the road test results I got last month, and on good, long runs in the environment I'll mainly be using it these last couple of weeks. I hadn't planned this venturi yet, and was going to continue with the BE3 and AC mods (nicely tooled-up for the range of holes now), but this came up cheap 2nd hand on Ebay so I grabbed it – £20; no one else bid on it - maybe because they're a bugger to set up, but I got the 26/26 right eventually, so will tackle this carefully and patiently too. So it's venturi and RamAir, big MJ, check Pilot, Progression, drop MJ, check Progression, play with BE3 holes and AC..........and round-and round-and round............. That's after a good ride tomorrow, then the next tweaking session can begin. I suppose Easter is my next deadline – and I still have it in mind to have a look at the clutch before the year gets serious too.................
(jim, you just posted while I was editing; I'll read yours now)
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Post by henri on Mar 1, 2016 9:06:17 GMT
just so long as ya know those ram airs are for rotax cart engines often . them babys rev to 14,000rpm an stick out insane bhp ,it will pass lots more air ,an be even like no filter at all almost . be prepared to jump ya main up a bit ,the beast will breathe free now . H
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Post by sime66 on Mar 1, 2016 9:21:05 GMT
Yes I see the point; It'll have to be a suck-it-and-see (excuse the pun), but I do have the RamAir on at the moment with the 132MJ and temps and plug are good, but I still reckon it needs air to get it running like it was a few weeks ago. I do see that the vortex will make a BIG difference, so maybe the narrower Polini filter will be necessary, especially considering jimscoot's experience, but I reckon I'll change one thing (the venturi) first, and have the Polini to use if my main does go silly again. I see both arguments, and only trying it out and tweaking will tell.
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Post by pxguru on Mar 1, 2016 9:30:45 GMT
Not going to need the Polini filter. Put it back on ebay for someones lawnmower Jimscoot, I wouldn't get too hung up on what kit is running, if you need a 140 MJ or bigger you need a 2mm hole. Based on what happened to my P200 iron barrel tourer the 1.8mm hole was ok up to about 135 MJ but once it needed bigger than 140, even putting in my 165 MJ wouldn't make it splutter. Now it has a 2mm hole it runs great.
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Post by jimscoot on Mar 1, 2016 11:34:10 GMT
I was wondering where you got that I was running a 140main but of course you can see it in my signature. At the moment I'm on a 125with my old trusty polini pipe. I decided to pull the head and clean the carbon off it and when I put it back together it started running really rich. That's the reason I've dropped down to a 125. Still running the 190ac and be3 with a 45/160 pilot. Air screw 11/4 turns out. This is the smoothest I can get it running around town transition from pilot to main. Freeway speeds is where things heat up seeing temps up around 175c especially under load into headwinds etc. The sip road pipe gives cooler temps but seems to restrict it to much at the higher revs. The polini pipe lets it rev on a tad more but very similar torque to the sip road down low. The JL RZ mark one righty doesn't have much torque especially up hills below the powerband but on the flats when it comes on its awesome and feels like it can rev to infinity. So it's a lot of work to really get the JL on song. The polini pipe ticks all the boxes and is a little quieter than the JL and not much noisier than the sip road. I still don't understand why people bag it so much it works well. Anyway sorry for going on about it and back on topic. Sime I have had that Venturi on mine with a larger airbox lid (I modified mine so it gives more area above the Venturi) and tried endless jetting combos and countless hours. The end result was slightly better throttle response but no matter how rich, it would ping and skyrocket the temps. The plug came out white ashy and blistered in every trial. The sip road was the only way to get it running with the Venturi but the temps were still up there and certainly not safe and 4 stroking it's head off around town (not fun) PX guru you seem to have the magic touch and I really take note to what your saying. Thanks for your advice
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Post by henri on Mar 1, 2016 12:25:04 GMT
just thought of something . earlier should of said , the ram-air "will suck air like a twenty dollar whore sucking a golfball thru a garden hose ,hoping for a ten dollar tip" . sorry , rained off play an bored . H
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Post by pxguru on Mar 2, 2016 4:02:49 GMT
Jimscoot, You and Sime have very similar set ups and similar issues. How yours doesn't have a hole in the piston is beyond me! Must be pretty close. The JL is the fastest pipe you have. The others are quieter. The SI carb will always set up ok, just need to set it up in the right order
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Post by jaydenjames187 on Mar 2, 2016 4:08:07 GMT
The first run in stage is always tricky when so much time/effort/money is at stake. First 200 miles is when you don't really want a heat seize. What works for me is; after the first start take it for a few 10 mile runs allowing it to cool down and go cold between each run. Run a main jet 10 points over what you think it needs, so it wont rev out. Add a couple of extra turns out to the airscrew, so its drivable but splutters. Add an extra 1% oil to the tank. Try to keep it in 3rd more than usual and not change up too quick. Then after 200 miles re jet it properly and do what you like but no long WOT thrashing or low throttle slow cruising (both very bad for a new 2 stroke engine).
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Post by sime66 on Mar 2, 2016 19:31:16 GMT
Never mind all this sucking, it was damn blowy on the scoot today !!
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Post by pxguru on Mar 3, 2016 4:46:48 GMT
That Vortex yet not fitted yet? If you have time to swan about you have time to get it fitted! Waiting to see what happens to the mid splutter.
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Post by sime66 on Mar 3, 2016 6:14:08 GMT
Essential journey yesterday, otherwise I'd have stayed at my desk. Vortex was here when I got back last night, so I'll fit it and have a play on the weekend. I've had no splutter since I put the RamAir on, just still a hint of the flattish spot around the 3-4,000rpm area, and also I reckon this drop in performance at high rpm in 4th (these due to seat/breathing not engine – they were resolved with jetting on old seat and conventional filter). I've noted that you expect an area that will need attention there (low splutter again), which is where my BE and AC mods will resurface. First job is just get a rich MJ in so I can start playing; first with Pilot, then MJ, then BE and AC. It was pretty extreme wind yesterday, but uphill into 50-70knot head-cross winds really got my temps up to 145ºC max (will look at plug later**). She was really struggling though; sometimes needing 2nd gear to make progress, or drop temp, on what seemed like flat road into the wind. I did have a big back pack on, so I was a bit of a sail to catch the wind, so not really a typical ride. There was no swanning – all wildlife was grounded; the only things flying about were trees! Edit: Before moving on, I'm going to make a note of two set-ups that are good/OK, so I have something to go back to if I'm having trouble sorting this vortex, and need the scooter for a long ride: (Best, so far) Set-Up #1 – Old seat, conventional air intake and filter: 48/160, 132, BE3, AC160
16.51PS @7681rpm, 15.89Nm @6617rpm, max 8639rpm = 97kph = 61mph in 3rd 4th gear: max = 7650rpm = 116kph = 72mph == No splutter – slight dip in graphs @ 3-4,000 Set-Up #2 – New Seat, RamAir filter: 48/160, 132, BE3+1, AC160== No splutter – slight dip in graphs @ 3-4,000 == Lost top-end rpm/speed, but OK – not measured, but noticeable. Next Set-up – New Seat, RamAir filter, Polini Vortex (start point): 48/160*, 150*, BE3+1*, AC160* *All will need checking; Pilot/Progression to be set up, MJ hopefully oversized to start with, BE3+1 will probably need more holes, I have a 170AC which I will try and increase if necessary. I'll check that later;got to go out, just want the info in one place to refer back to. Edit #2: **Here's the plug from riding over the moors in very windy conditions, when I could really feel the engine fighting in the strong headwind. I didn't expect it to be quite so pale though; the max temp was 145ºC, but that wasn't speed, it was fighting to climb into a 50 knot wind. I'm not going to worry about it too much because the set-up is all changing tomorrow with the vortex and upjetting, and it was particularly unusual weather conditions.
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Post by jimscoot on Mar 3, 2016 8:15:10 GMT
Sime I know you have mentioned it here somewhere but I can't be arsed searching back, what exhaust you running?
Over the last 3 weeks I have been having flooding issues and having to down jet quite a bit to compensate. Just this afternoon, I pulled the DRT carb top off to see if anything was a miss. I noticed that the spring loaded needle wasn't returning properly which would explain why I've been flooding and running rich. So I put the standard needle back in went back to my original jetting and bingo..all is good again. So just for reference with the JL pipe I'm running a 190ac/be3/138main with a 55/160 pilot 1/2 turn out.
Slight splutter through pilot to main transition and temps on freeway around the 175-180 degrees.
Sime your temps are very low compared to mine but i live in a very humid hot tropical climate. (Queensland Australia) so maybe that has something to do with it im not sure
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Post by sime66 on Mar 3, 2016 8:41:34 GMT
On Mob so brief sr2 pipe 150C is my safe max - reckon your high - remembered you're in Oz. I'll read yours better later
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Post by pxguru on Mar 3, 2016 9:03:38 GMT
Sime, I thought you already had the Vortex before! if yours gets on with it ok and we can make it run fine, I'll get one for my tourer Jimsoot, Good news about the float needle, was all sounding strange before. Two things for you to start with. That pilot is too big. You need something similar to Sime, try his 48/160, will run much better then. Next if you are back up to a 138 MJ you are going to need to up to a 2.0mm hole. It will never set up right with the 1.8mm. I would expect yours to run a bit hotter but not that much!
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Post by sime66 on Mar 3, 2016 10:13:42 GMT
Jimscoot, I know pxguru recently said that we have similar set-ups and similar issues, but I see some differences, and because of that, and because I'm relatively new to tuning and want to concentrate on my set up rather than being confused or distracted by comparison, I haven't taken too much notice of the specifics of your set-up. Here, in non-technical, wishy-washy terms are how I see each so far:
Mine has opened inlet, calculated inlet timing, big transfers (not just matched), opened-up exhaust port, and all port timings to suit my needs – all recorded here before on the other marathon thread. I have a 26/26 carb, which initially was not giving me enough fuel for the engine's suck, so I opened up my carb channels to 2mm. After that, when there is sufficient air (eg with the old seat), I get pretty much exactly the performance and speeds which were intended/expected from the design; those best one's I recorded in previous pages and above. The lower seat is giving me an air restriction, which I initially tried to deal with by fitting the RamAir filter, and now I'm trying to improve on that by using a vortex; I'm trying to get more air through the whole engine, but that will also need rejetting and upjetting again. Other than the little flattish spot around the 3-4,000rpm I have no major issues now, and can return to a good-known set up at any time. I'm trying to improve on it, not fix it. I'm mainly riding on hills and lanes, with some dual carriageway, and my temps are staying safe, which I think the consensus here has at about 150ºC; I'm rarely at prolonged WOT at all at the moment, but even then the temps are OK.
You have a modified 24/24 carb, but with only 1.8mm opened channels and the DRT top, we don't know the work done on your cases or barrel except they are matched, nor do we know your timings (you've cut the crank equally both ends?), or what you want from the scooter or how you ride or in what conditions (I picture long straight, dusty, filter-clogging roads with plenty of open space to 'go-like-fk', as is the antipodean vernacular I believe); I'm sure some idea can be gleaned from your set-up, but I haven't really got too bogged down with yours up until now; trying to remember what I'm doing is enough for me for now. Your engine might well need a different volume flow to mine; we don't know that. We know you've gone through a similar process to eliminate similar problems, but you have high temps, probably caused by your big AC (or riding, or road/air conditions), and you've got a selection of performance pipes giving a range of results, but your carb, jetting and porting need to be right too. I feel that you're jetting to compensate for something missing somewhere else, *or in the first steps of the carb set-up. *Pxguru has said a few times that there is a tried and tested method to work through to set up an Si carb, and I don't know if you've taken that on board. With your posts, I read your symptoms, and pxguru's advice to you to see if it is relevant to mine, but I haven't really got into what you're doing because a *55/160 on ½ turn and an AC190* are not similar to what my engine has so far needed; I'm leaner Pilot and MJ and a sensible AC, and as well as your (rich jetting but overcompensated with AC, carb set-up?), I suspect the BIG difference is that yours is matched and mine is opened-up all through except the pipe.
With that in mind, I'm going to continue to concentrate on getting this vortex sorted now; I did note your experiences with it, so hopefully I can add to that knowledge in the next few weeks.
I do have it in mind that my AC is probably going to increase with the vortex.
I've also been aware that with my porting good all through, and when my carb is spot-on, the restriction on mine will probably be the pipe, but for now that's where my tuning will find its limit because I'm not ready to think about playing with my exhaust.
Pxguru, you've posted since I started writing this; I've had a quick read, and taken note* – I'll have first impressions of vortex soon.
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Post by jimscoot on Mar 3, 2016 11:12:58 GMT
Ok so, Polini 177 As per polini instructions 19mm cut off leading edge off standard crank Rotary pad cut from 32mm out to 40mm (4mm front 4mm back) Cases matched to all polini ports. Exhaust port and transfers standard polini.
I've tried the 160ac but it feels like the little flat spot your talking about at 3000/4000rpm with yours. The 190ac just makes the light throttle up through the rev range nice and smooth. I'm also running the sip no 4 slide which has no cutouts (kidney shape topside) so that enriches the mix quite a lot mid range so I'm compensating there as well. I'm sure if I went back to the standard slide I could use the 160ac. Sip recommend as rich pilot and slide as you can get away with so when your at high speed cruise very light throttle it keeps the mix slightly rich. Theres a lot of PX tuners in Melbourne that I've spoken with over the phone and they say you need heat for a two stroke to perform. They have regular rides and say 180degrees on the small blocks is ok if it's not seizing and their regular riders are maxing at 200.
In saying all that some guys that are running pinasco kits are seizing as low as 140..so go figure.
You have attention to detail and that's what brings the rewards, well done. If I slap the sip road pipe on my temps drop 15/20 degrees minimum, but it's a boring pipe with zero powerband
Oh and by the way what is an sr2 pipe?
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Post by sime66 on Mar 3, 2016 13:05:38 GMT
I'm sure if we all keep adding to the knowledge-pot, we'll get them right for our own needs in the end. I'm not too concerned about max, ragged-edge performance though, which probably is more common among your tuners; what you find boring might well be fine for me – I'm not interested in prolonged hanging on at WOT on the motorway. My attention to detail is really because at each step of this I'm tackling this stuff for the first time. With experience I'm sure there's corners that can be cut, but I reckon I'd end up in a right mess if I didn't follow instructions, record my results, seek advice, learn from it, repeat at next step................ Wouldn't it be great if some of us were geographically closer, so we could thrash some of this out in person, and get a better feel of how our scoots compare; my scooter hasn't seen another one for any comparison for years, nor has anyone who is interested or knows what they're looking at seen or ridden mine – the only feedback I get is on here and with my recorded data. The scootering fraternity down here is almost entirely social, Sunday breakfast, sightseeing the same old places every year, and the regular local Rallies – in bloody holiday apartments!, and using a mechanic and/or AA/RAC instead of learning anything, which I found boring and lost interest in pretty quickly and decided to do my own thing, learn some stuff and be self-sufficient; the tuning is just part of the learning, and I'm mainly doing that to be able to look after myself so I can get out on some decent long runs/touring on my own, it isn't to make a racer. Have you got any performance figures, or considered trying this MicroDyno app we've been using – just for interest? sr2 = SipRoad2; it's on my summary below all my posts (I was on my 'phone and have big fingers and a silly little phone, so was abbreviating); I'm not sure if you're talking about a SipRoad or SipRoad2, or exactly how much of a performance increase the upgrade to SR2 was; there are some figures on the SIP pages, but I didn't upgrade from that so never worried too much about the comparison between them, and it doesn't sound like you'll be happy with yours in the end either.
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