When I said similar, I just meant similar. A PX180 with some tuning and an SI carb. Both need a main jet that will make the low/mid rpm too rich. Thats where the similarity ends. You know what I think, you are going about this the right way and we will end up with a thread that details how to do it properly. And that tuning can be just as reliable as a standard but faster and in your case faster and more economical!
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
ok SR2, sip road 2. im a dumbass for not picking up on that.
What ive found going back and fourth between the sip road and the JL. The sip road runs cool as a cucumber and is very forgiving if your jetting isn't right.
You can push it hard all day long and it just keeps giving and when you get to the hills you can stay in 4th all the way unless its like a crazy steep incline. its a beautiful quiet pipe and the neighbours send me flowers when im running it.
The JL is a fire breathing dragon that is not forgiving with jetting and picks up every flaw that ever was. its loud, its hot hot and is a stress to ride around town.
But boy oh boy when that power hits it is, without a doubt the most exhilarating experience known to man.
Malossi166 ported matched Serie Pro flowed reed valve crank 57mm Malossi 30mm phbh carb/reed valve manifold kit Opened intake to match Malossi manifold Ngk BR9ES Flywheel milled down to 1.6kg Sip cnc ultrastrong clutch with L reinforced springs and updated circlip readspeed unlimited cdi 3 degrees retard Sip performance left hand 22 tooth primary up gear and larger 100/90/10 rear tyre
Mainly for conversation, and info sharing and seeing if anyone has considered or experienced this; I'm OK with what I'm doing, just thinking aloud.
I stuck my vortex on earlier today, but after I'd messed about with the new speedo cable I had no time to ride this morning, so that'll have to wait until tomorrow morning. Whilst fitting it though, it occurred to me that the Polini vortex is a bit of a poor relation to the other options, from the point of view of access and airflow to the MJ and Pilot stacks, because: 1) There are no openings in the cone for either stack, so to change a jet you have to remove the vortex, which is a drag because the fixing screw is meant to be Threadlocked to prevent it working loose and going on its holidays down your engine. 2) There is actually only a shallow cut-out on the underside of the vortex body to allow air to the top of the stacks; I see this a potentially a restriction that might need opening later, but obviously we have to hope that Polini have made sufficient allowance there before we go chopping their design up. - Maybe for mine it will need opening; don't need an air restriction.
Here's mine in-situ, and a better image of the area I'm talking about (red rectangle):
I'm only posting for interest and to see if anyone has any knowledge to add before I start reading through loads of threads and making notes. I think I'll have to accept that the vortex will be coming off several times while I rejet it, and also there's a possibility that it will need opening above the stacks on the underside, and as I realised that, I also realised that it had already been thought about and improved on. Anyway, I'll start tomorrow; I've got this as my start point:
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
It's a bit of a guess (and I upped it one jet size when I realised I wouldn't be able to change it quickly because the vortex blocks the stacks) I'm just picking a start point really, based on what I've found out before deciding; 29th Feb:
“I'm on a 132 MJ at present (but not brilliant, yet), the SIP write-up says:
“SIP-TIP : You will have to raise the jetting in your carb. for safe and enduring use of this performance extra. With original PIAGGIO cylinders the jetting should be increased by 5-8 sizes. In combination with performance orientated cylinder set ups your main jet needs an increase of between 10 and 15 sizes. This conversion functions especially well in combination with the SIP ROAD expansion chamber system.”
This suggests I should be back in the region of mid to upper 140s; I suppose it's back to starting rich and working down, so I reckon I'll go back to the BGM 140-162 MJ set and start with 148; any comments?”
Bear in mind the kit for a 24/24 carb comes with a 140 jet, and mines on a 26/26 and a tuned-a-bit engine. Thinking about it since I wrote that last week, a lot of the upjetting mentioned there is probably due to the change in filter, which I already have on mine, but how much of an upjet for the vortex is a bit of an unknown. I'm pretty sure the 150 will be too big, but there's other factors too – the AC in the stack, which I've left at a standard 160, and the restriction in the vortex body, which I may well end up removing. For the moment I wanted a jet that was big enough to be safe and to give me an idea of how it all is. I also want to do my Pilot first, so a big MJ won't matter, just while I sort that out. If I get my Pilot sorted and some numbers or a feel for it as it is this morning, I'll post them later and we can decide how best to tackle the variables – there's the BE mods too to think about; if it's obviously too rich when I start her up shortly, I can drop the MJ or put the modified (AC170) in and start from there before I do my Pilot; it's really just about finding a sensible start point, and I had to pick a number – I had the SIP write-up and 150 was the middle of the BGM set, so I've got plenty of jets either side of that without changing brand.
I think cutting the vortex might well be what I end up doing; it occurs to me though that the more holes or bits cut out of the cone, the less effective the cone itself will be – just worth bearing in mind before making any decisions about that.
Anyway, the neighbours have had their lie-in; I'm out now to have a play.......................
(Easter is my new deadline to sort this bit out; so no hurry, but a point by which I want to have this right or ditch it for a known good set-up until after the holidays; there's terrorising to be done).
To be honest I don't have a lot of numbers because I went out without my phone to measure, expecting to be doing more tweaking than recording, but she's really good.
Started 2nd kick, pulled away smooth, no splutter, put choke in straight away and it picked up nicely. No flat spot and no splutter, very good acceleration in 3rd, lowish temps in the lanes (high 90s), but definitely nippier too. Went onto my normal road, between the villages; progression temp only high 90s, but thrashing it between the villages I was in 3rd and 4th much earlier going by roadmarks (no speeds), and got it to 124ºC after a quick blast in 4th. Came back through the village at progression speed; no splutter but still only high 90s*. Came back doing one junction on dual carriageway WOT all the way and got to 125ºC only, no GPS but felt really quick and lively. Went round the lane round the back to have a look at Pilot as it was nicely warmed up; tickover a little quick and a slight dip in Idle-Rev-Idle, but in a bit with the Mix and adjusted Idle and sorted without needing to change Pilot, I think – will redo temps*. I'll look at the plug in a minute, but after the dual carriageway blast there was a bit of messing in the lanes, so plug might be a bit oily by now.
Better than expected Looks like its nearly set up, just needs to be hotter like you said. Reducing the main will make it hotter all round. Get it so its over 140 degC at WOT to start with, will probably need 142MJ for that. Then reduce some more if you think it needs it.
You've been gone ages so its probably all done by now. Running crisp and clean right from tickover!
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
Sadly, long time away was not long time playing outside; got called in to wash my hands and put long trousers on.
I'm on a 145MJ now, and the temps are better by about 10ºC; I haven't looked at plug this afternoon and might go to 142 during the week after another ride (lean in Winter, thrash it in Summer) , but ran out of time 'cos I had to put Chef's hat on and do Sunday lunch, so brought the vortex indoors to have a better look at this cut-out. Anyway; that's all nicely in hand, and I can take my time, get some longer runs in; probably some varying weather too, and make my mind up what MJ will be best. The main thing is that the vortex is going to be good, and will allow me to use the air under the side-panel, filtered on the carb box, without the flat-spot in 3rd and drop-off in 4th I had before – and possibly/probably going to be better than the previous best numbers too when I've got my jetting spot-on. Two other reasons I didn't get too much into the fine tweakery after my first post this morning: 1) My K-Nuts arrive tomorrow, and I'll feel much happier bombing down the dual carriageway when I know my wheels aren't going to come off and overtake me!! 2) I've been thinking about having to have this vortex removable for jet tweaking, or cutting it, and what difference to the air (AC etc.) might result from cutting the vortex block. I marked it up with two options; the red is modifying it so that I can bolt it down securely and permanently leave it in place, which is favourite. The green was just if I needed to compensate for any restriction caused by the venturi block (raising the top and chamfering it all), but I don't think I'll need that, so it's the red really if anything. So, concentrating on the red marks, this mod is going to increase the air above the jet stacks, which might result in the MJ going up again, so I thought I might as well decide whether or not to do it before fine tweaking the MJ. I could also just drill two holes like the Pinasco, but that might be fiddly, or a drag if I didn't get them vertical. I used Loctite 243 yesterday, and that wasn't as secure as I hoped when I went to remove it this afternoon (I wanted to have to crack the hold, but it was just tight, not really solid – I'd cleaned the threads on the bolt, but probably the hole in the carb was contaminated with petrol - squirted with carb cleaner down there now) – I really do not want to be worrying about losing that bolt down the Inlet, so not having to remove the vortex is favourite. On the other hand, It's so close to being good; maybe I'll leave the venturi block alone, get the MJ right, and use a stronger threadlock when I've finished this bit of setting up.
That's quite a lot of metal to remove. I doubt it will change the performance much and being able to remove the main jet without disturbing the fixing bolt will be much safer in the long term. There should be enough left to keep it from cracking right through.
Is starting to sound like its close to jetted in. When it feels right and the first quarter throttle is crisp and precise, the whole scooter rides better. Not just faster! I always thought this would be close to 20bhp. Once the WOT temperature is up it could almost make it.
I think I will get one of these for my tourer but I have decided there is no hurry. It rides great as it is and the jetting is nearly there now. Like yours it was never meant to be fast.
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
Having spotted the risk of unwanted objects in my lovely engine, I couldn't ignore it really, so got the Dremel out. For the cost of the vortex it's worth giving it a go. I'm pretty pleased with the job itself, although getting to the jets and actually lifting them out of the carb is still going to be a palaver, but one that can now be done without removing the vortex – once I've worked out how; I need something like a bent cotton bud inner to shove down the hole* to lift it just enough to grab it. Magnetic jets required? Pretty pictures anyway:
I'm mainly in to play time now, but the list of 'last few jobs' gets added to as quickly as I cross stuff off; well worth it though. Taking my baby for a blast in the morning, and hope to have some numbers to show its nearly done. Hope all goes well tomorrow with yours.
Well you don't hang about A top job with the dremel. You might manage to move some transfer ports with it one day.
This should see it done, as the MJ reduces everything will improve. Maybe even to 20bhp
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
Vortex looks good, and it's easy to change the jets now, but my numbers seem to have gone a bit wonky again though. (Obviously there could be factors other than the vortex trimming – much stiller air for example).
Temps Progression speed – ± 95ºC Cruising at 70kph in 4th – ± 105ºC Long WOT in 3rd to longer WOT in 4th and hold – 115ºC Highest recorded temp – 125ºC
Temps Progression – ± 95ºC Cruising at 70kph in 4th – ± 110ºC Long WOT in 3rd to longer WOT in 4th and hold – 120ºC Highest recorded temp – 125ºC
Note: No dual carriageway this morning; there's too much slow traffic this time of the morning - No long WOTs.
It's odd to say, but I expected a big difference between those two set of results because I'd lowered the MJ and drilled another hole in the BE3 to get my temps up, but they were only marginally higher, if at all. A few conclusions: I think cutting the cone did reduce the vortex effect (velocity thro' carb), but not so much that it makes having it pointless, and being able to remove the jets roadside without disturbing the vortex is essential, and easy now with my little plastic tool. I'm getting the performance (feel) I need, without the conventional air inlet and filter, but I don't yet reckon I've improved on my best known set-up #1. I think an MD in 3rd would be good/comparable, but I don't think my top speed in 4th would be better. I think I still need to drop my MJ a bit more, but I really do like how it feels now, although the temps don't seem to show it, so I'm going to take it on some longer, hilly rides for a week or so to see how the numbers I get compare to those very hot ones I got last week in the wind. I'm on 140MJ, so as long as I don't drop to where I was before the vortex (132), or if I get better speeds and temps if I do go back that low, then the vortex is an improvement – even after cutting it. I do still have a hunch that I'm just not getting enough clean, cool air from under the side panel, but I also keep dismissing that thought because your Big Boy's carbs manage, so mine must be OK. BTW if anyone gets a RamAir filter, I have a cautionary tale to share on fitting it with the Jubilee clip over the lip on the carb box opening – tightening it too much over the lip will split the rubber (I have a repair to do there). I can't get my Progression any higher; I'll have another go at tweaking the mix, but it might be that I need to go even leaner with it, which is pretty much taking me of the bottom of the table. The BE3+2 didn't make a huge difference at low revs either or overly-lean the rest of the range, so I'll keep it, and continue to reduce my MJ (and maybe my Pilot) It is forecast to be extremely windy here again tomorrow, and I've got catching up with other work to do too, and some jobs on the scooter that are probably more important than fine-tweaking this jetting now that I am pretty happy with it (these wheels for example, my speedo outer needs a trim, and my DC flasher seems to have packed up too, so need to investigate and order - and if I'm changing it i might as well do that when I've got the spare off to swap wheels) – I need to spend a morning just looking after the scooter (the to-do list has grown again this morning), and I think I should also just drop it one more MJ size (Back into 'INC' jets) and then ride it as it is to see how it goes on longer, hilly rides. There might not be much progress now until the weekend, but when I ride it again I want to concentrate on speed and temps, not the other niggles and worries. I suppose I should look at my plug before I pack it in this morning; I'll do that and put a 138 in; ready for next time, but then I suppose I'd better do some work......................
(I might edit my conclusions; I'm still mulling it over; I am very pleased with it - just a little bit more tweakery...........)
Edit: Plug and afterthoughts:
Before I went back out it occurred to me that the previous (#2) set up was about to have a 170AC, so thought I'd change that whilst I was at it, but looking at the plug, I decided just to go to the 138 and leave the 160AC for now. It seems that it feels good, and the plug is good; just the CHT temps not agreeing, so I might hold judgement until after longer rides. It's interesting to note though, I am a pretty big chap, and the last time I got very high temps it was very windy, and this time I'm getting lower than expected temps is when the air is very still. Anyway; here's this morning's plug:
Plug looks leaner in the picture but temps still low. I'll read again in a minute but the extra hole in the BE3+2 won't work so well without more air. I would try the 170AC at the same time as the 138 MJ. If it rides fine and all flat spots gone. Revving out to top of 3rd like before, then it could be left there for some time for you to get the feel of it. I would doubt the vortex is working any different than before. If it feels good try the MD
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
Yes it is getting leaner as I tweak, and I'll continue riding and fiddling for a while and when I feel it's ready I'll do another MD session to see. I noted your comments and have put the 170AC in with the 138MJ, ready for next time. There are no flat spots and it feels great now; maybe not yet WOT in 4th though, but I'll get the temps up and see. Maybe the extra volume flow with the vortex is just giving better cooling, and the fuel/air mix is better than the temps indicate.
Should be quite a bit leaner this time with the 170 AC. It will get more sensitive to change as it gets closer to the optimum. This is when you are in the zone for the Summer affect. The CHT is relative to the heat of combustion. More air in the mixture will only make it burn hotter. If the CHT has not broken off the spark plug and all working fine then it is still too rich at WOT on the MJ. Need to be cautious that the low or mid doesn't go too weak, as the MJ is dropped. This is not an issue in a "big boys carb" but is with an SI.
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
stumbled , youve been warned about them "funny" indian fags , nice to hear from ya ,nearly forgot your somewhere nice n hot/sunny ,must be all the rain/wind washing/blowing my brains away here in blighty . H
if its got wheels n makes a noise I wanna play with it, skateboards included coz "skate-punks rule",
She's a bit blowy today, H; I heard the weather overnight, checked scooter hadn't blown away at 5:30, and decided on a lie in – sorry; it won't happen again, chaps. Lots of desk-bound work today, and plenty of time to ponder, but I'll keep my dubious theories to a minimum and have another jetting ride or two tomorrow. I did check my CHT ring was OK and seated where it should be, and there's nothing else in how it's performing to suggest it's faulty at all, but it did seem to give lower readings than the plug would suggest, so I was thinking why that might be and thought the increased volume flow might explain it - it is certainly the vortex and the jetting changes. I'm aware of the possible discrepancy and we'll see what happens next time. I always stay safe with the temps whilst riding, looking at that more than the speedo at the moment, and confirm it on my return home with the plug inspection, and I always carry at least the main jet, air correctors and atomisers that I've removed at last tweak and a few either side of what's in the carb in my pack; I can quickly rectify any hot spots on the road with a bigger MJ, changing AC back, or putting the undrilled BE3 back in – 'Careful' is my middle name (although I'm sure there's less polite one's too). I know we're getting close to optimum, and that I've just made two leaner changes at once – so proceeding with caution. A bit lean when 4ºC outside will get richer later in the year too. A little leaner low down might give me the bit of grunt at first acceleration that I've been feeling is missing and shows on my previous MDs, but if I've gone too far I can change the BE3 or BE3+1 before the MJ or AC.
Hi vespasco; I was just beginning to wonder if you'd been picked up at border control – glad you're still on the loose!! Thanks for the tea scale; it makes a perfect accompaniment to the biscuit scale; reckon I'm about a 5 on that, but I'd say the Old Indian Imperial Tea Scale should be read in conjunction with the Metric Biscuit Scale, where I'm a Custard Cream. – You'll be using mph and Fahrenheit next!
Excellent work Sime. I reckon a 45/160 pilot and a 190ac and it will be perfect.
Buttery smooth progression with crisp clean rev/idle/rev
Malossi166 ported matched Serie Pro flowed reed valve crank 57mm Malossi 30mm phbh carb/reed valve manifold kit Opened intake to match Malossi manifold Ngk BR9ES Flywheel milled down to 1.6kg Sip cnc ultrastrong clutch with L reinforced springs and updated circlip readspeed unlimited cdi 3 degrees retard Sip performance left hand 22 tooth primary up gear and larger 100/90/10 rear tyre
Sounding like its pretty close now I would leave the pilot where it is until the MJ is closer, like over 140 deg C on the motorway. If after a long WOT to warm it up to over 140 the progression temperature should maintain at about 115 deg C. If it drops back under 100 then I would reduce the pilot. nearly there
Edit; liking the sound of not even needing full throttle up a big hill. That's how is should be feeling. Into the wind on the motorway is where it should really notice, fighting to hang onto it, instead of constantly changing gear to keep the speed above embarrassment level.
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
I ordered 45/160 & 42/160 yesterday to keep the job rolling; they should be here in the morning, and 45/160 and/or 135 MJ and I reckon I'll be done. I'll post some dual carriageway speeds and temps and see what progression temp is like afterwards (it had occurred to me that I always do that one first), but I think Pilot will probably need doing; I had thought Pilot before the 135MJ because it would lean the full range, then check the MJ. Anyway, whatever the final tweak, I should have an MD run lined up for Sunday morning............
Targets: in region of 120kph, and 20PS – ambitious? Maybe – but the numbers don't matter so much; I can feel it now, and I really like how it's riding, so I'll be happy, whatever the numbers. With Old faithful I used to hate having cars up my arse on narrow lanes when I was doing my best, now I'm up the car's arses and they're holding me up (must get that disc brake sorted before I bend me scoot).
More on the weekend - hope the fog doesn't linger too much; this time of year it's a real nuisance here in the mornings.
numbers? ,bah humbug , its about the feel of the ride ,numbers are for boasting in the pub an dyno-donkeys , if its pullin the hills on 3/4 throttle comfortably i reckon the jobs a gud un .now ride it til ya break it an we can start all over again . H
if its got wheels n makes a noise I wanna play with it, skateboards included coz "skate-punks rule",
now ride it til ya break it an we can start all over again . H
- That genuinely did make me Laugh Out Loud, H!
Done some jobs this morning; K-nuts on, wheels switched so I've got a scrubbed spare, new DC flasher fitted and working, speedo outer trimmed and working, muffs off; she's all tweaked and ready for final tests on weekend (going to scrub my new front tyre in a minute with a quick spin and decide whether or not to slip the 135 in). That's me - and she's a beauty!!!! (whatever the numbers )
Temps: Progression speed – ± 100ºC (after a WOT in 4th). Cruising at 80kph in 4th – ± 115ºC Short WOT in 3rd to longer WOT in 4th – 133ºC Highest recorded temp – 160ºC
Sat AM Recorded 160ºC @ 115kph on dual carriageway - backed off because of temp!! Progression no more than 100ºC afterwards, and a bit lumpy (hot clutch?) Also didn't idle so well when hot – easily sorted. I reckon leaner Pilot and richer MJ – but inclined just to leave it alone and see what temps are like on a long, hilly ride; maybe next weekend.
One MD run this morning; does beat #1, but not by much (will do an overlay later, but good to see the low rev dip gone – probably BE mods): Result - set-up #3: Polini vortex, RamAir filter, 48/160, 138MJ, BE3+2, 170AC 16.83PS @ 7760rpm, 16.28Nm @ 5631rpm, 8927RPM max (= 101kph = 63.2mph in 3rd) (#1 was 16.51PS @7681rpm, 15.89Nm @6617rpm, max 8639rpm = 97kph = 61mph in 3rd - ALL NUMBERS ARE BETTER - peak torque is greater, but lower down- BE mods?)
*Edited this in; it's the long WAV played through the rpm App on my phone, which is remarkably accurate above 6,000rpm (you see in 3rd when the revs settle below 6,000 and then read right). Max in 3rd is 8,882rpm (agrees with MD) max in 4th is 7,267rpm (not WOT) = 110kph = 69mph. My 4th WOT run got to 115kph, but 160ºC before I throttled back – not recorded a WAV for that as was using the GPS speedo. - It's an MP4 - press the play icon, bottom left
Revs:
Conclusion: This is plenty good enough for me, but I do think there's more here; temps are low at Progression and high at 4th WOT, so I think there's a tweak there. I'm quite happy to leave it alone though; I only did one MD this morning, not picked the best one, and it's better than the best #1 set-up MD. Any suggested tweaks will be tried – my WASP order (jets etc.) just dropped through the letterbox while I'm typing, so I've got the leaner Pilots. The first job of the RamAir filter and Vortex was to allow me to use the lower seat, and change seats without changing jetting, so having it better now than #1 is what was hoped for; improving on this MD for #3 is a bonus, and maybe I'll tweak it more after a break over Easter to just enjoy the ride!
I'll play with the files and images and maybe add some stuff later, but that's it really; it's a bit hotter than #1 (too hot?), and it's a bit better than #1. I'm inclined to leave it for a bit, unless there's any suggestions or observations from the stuff above.
Comparison:
I'm happier seeing the improvement in the 3,500-6,000rpm range, where I'll feel it on the hills, than at the 8,000rpm, where I'll rarely venture at the moment. I like this......
Point of interest; as no muffs on now, I took a few glances at my throttle position on Friday: with normal riding I'm mainly accelerating at only half throttle, and cruising at quarter throttle; probably climbing on three-quarter as you said. I'm only really WOTting to test it.
Also, now I've got my speedo back, or rather the tacho; it will be interesting to see if the the vortex made much difference to the fuel economy......
Edit:
.....Not so sure I like this too much though - I guess that confirms 150ºC is OK, and 160ºC is pushing it:
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
A Torquey Tourer! - This was the aim. Yes, it does feel really good to ride.
140MJ and 45/160 pilot is what I thought, already in my morning jobs bag ready to go; I was just waiting for a second opinion really; consider it done. Also the split on the RamAir filter neck is bigger; I think it bends and opens when I sit on the scoot, so might be giving more air (and unfiltered air), so I'm going to repair that and maybe wind my rear shock up a notch to stop it happening. I expected to wind the shock up after it had been on for a while, though it feels good. Very foggy here this morning, so a few scoot jobs in the garden first, some general riding in the week to see how we're looking, and a re-run of tests when she's patched-up and rejetted...
Just to help me keep track when reading back, going to: Polini vortex, RamAir filter, 45/160, 140MJ, BE3+2, 170AC
It is still impressive how it is possible to tune to order by careful measurement and modification. It has turned out almost exactly to plan. It does rev a 500rpm too high but that will be those extra exhaust ports you have. Lucky you didn't make them even bigger. I like how the mild touring porting seems to rev forever. Sounds like its running well.
That should be the final jetting. For now. Might need another look when the weather changes.
Will be interesting to see the weaker pilots effect on the MD.
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR