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Post by kidda on Jul 24, 2015 22:15:46 GMT
Running full premix on my scooter and doing another rebuild,can I disregard the autolube drive (the drive that's by the clutch inside the engine) and just leave the top piece that connects upto the throttle cable also do away with the drive cog inside the autolube (not the ones inside the engine)? also blank off oil feed pipe hole on top with bolt instead of leaving the pipe going out the air box,cheers
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Post by leishy62 on Jul 25, 2015 8:09:43 GMT
Hey there, I did this on my PX, you need to remove the drive gear cog complete, (you can leave the cog inside the motor) and I found it easiest to replace the whole carb box with a non- autolube one, as I had one laying around, and also fashioned a bolt to be a snug fit to blank off the hole.
I only went to premix because the check valve in the auto lube was leaking, so every morning I started up, I was rewarded with clouds of smoke, I tried premix, as a temporary measure, but that was about three years ago!
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me
High Number
Posts: 105
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Post by me on Jul 25, 2015 8:44:05 GMT
If you want to go to the lengths of all that, but just drain the tank of oil and bung up the oil feed tube (metal bit) i just squash the very end with a pair of pliers then if you want to re-install it at a later point you only need to cut the squashed bit off and re use.....
If you are intending to do a rebuild then, yes you can start removing bits...
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Post by leishy62 on Jul 25, 2015 11:54:35 GMT
Pretty sure though, if you don't remove the gear pinion shaft it can seize up and drop bits into the engine??
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Post by kidda on Jul 25, 2015 13:28:31 GMT
I've stripped the engine to bear casings and thought to myself I don't need these parts so just making sure before I put all back together,cheers fellas
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Post by henri on Jul 25, 2015 15:43:51 GMT
best left out in that case ,apart from the drive gear behind clutch ,thats got to be there to space clutch out , H
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Post by kidda on Jul 25, 2015 19:07:53 GMT
Cheers fellas
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me
High Number
Posts: 105
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Post by me on Jul 26, 2015 12:15:21 GMT
Pretty sure though, if you don't remove the gear pinion shaft it can seize up and drop bits into the engine?? Not really its covered in oil fro the gear box so should never dry out.... the pump assembly is not attached to any part of the gear box apart from the drive shaft which runs in the gear oil, the pump cog runs on nylon bearings inside the pump, so should easily run with very little oil |
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pg
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 2 
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Post by pg on Aug 15, 2015 21:42:32 GMT
Hey there, I did this on my PX, you need to remove the drive gear cog complete, (you can leave the cog inside the motor) and I found it easiest to replace the whole carb box with a non- autolube one, as I had one laying around, and also fashioned a bolt to be a snug fit to blank off the hole. I only went to premix because the check valve in the auto lube was leaking, so every morning I started up, I was rewarded with clouds of smoke, I tried premix, as a temporary measure, but that was about three years ago! Hi got a similar problem too much oil, how hard to change check valve,px125e,I think it's got 180 kit does it need bigger jet |
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Post by henri on Aug 16, 2015 8:36:57 GMT
even tho kitted stick at 2% mix , an most i know just swap whole pumps rather than trying to find parts n re-build one ,if thats even possible , easiest option blank it off n go pre-mix ,
if you do work/swap on pump first tank off fuel must be pre-mixed to allow time for pump to prime itself n start working , H
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pg
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 2
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Post by pg on Aug 16, 2015 17:31:11 GMT
OK sounds like pre-mix is the way to go Thanks
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