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Post by fredperrybruce on Nov 10, 2014 18:05:26 GMT
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Post by vespasco on Nov 10, 2014 20:09:58 GMT
Is there a reason youre not using a non auto lube carb box in the first place??
I cannot remember the autolube trays but if your engine is non auto lube then so long as you get no airleaks through the carb box then i cannot see a problem... But wait for confirmation from others! There maybe a hole to block off somewhere??!
Is that a float bowl chamber spacer I see there???
Personally i think they are not so good as they alter the height/level of the fuel,which in turn affects your jetting/the way the atomizer works...!
If youre worried about fuel starvation try a bgm fastflow tap and/or a cosa float bowl top and enlarge the feedhole in the bottom of the bowl of the float chamber.
Have you used the polini filter n vortex adapter as yet?
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Post by fredperrybruce on Nov 10, 2014 20:22:10 GMT
vespasco,, thanks for the reply. I jumped in head first and brought spare of the moment,, I only really wanted a new 24 carb but as it came with tray and venturi system I could not say NO!  The reason I'm using the auto-lube tray is because everything I just brought all fits together nicely so would rather stick it straight in a play! I'm still half way through building my engine so have not used or tried any of the kit yet!! Yes the carb came with a spacer but not yet looked into it yet, to be honest it's all gonna be trial and error until the scoot feels right for me. Already installed a SIP fast flow tap The seller told me he had the kit set up for he's tripped out Mallossi 166 kit I'm just worrried that the Newish carb tray is not compatible with the engine !! |
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Post by bryno on Nov 10, 2014 21:00:30 GMT
That tray will be fine, I'd just remove the oil inlet pipe so you can blank off that hole in the box or it will suck in air there. The rest of the gubbins won't do anything unless you have an autolube drive gear in your engine. Gasket wise you could probably get away with either the autolube or non autolube versions.
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Post by fredperrybruce on Nov 10, 2014 21:02:58 GMT
Fantastic news,, Cheers bryno!!
That's all I wanted to hear!
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Post by henri on Nov 11, 2014 8:52:33 GMT
as bryno says ,but ive always used a non lube gasket ,without the oil feed hole ,its 1 less place to get a air leak.but not important if its a non-lube carb anyway.just a precaution .h
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Post by vespasco on Nov 11, 2014 10:07:14 GMT
If youve only just fitted the sip fastflow give it a good test as the sip ones are a well known pita as they leak!! Bgm seem to be the ones to get..
If you decide against the polini vortex system give me a shout..i maybe interested!!
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Post by henri on Nov 11, 2014 16:09:37 GMT
sips are ok-ish ,just have a rep for never fully turning off ,but as vespaco says bgm's are better ,least from the 1 ive seen better quality castings n finish . H
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Post by fredperrybruce on Nov 11, 2014 17:43:58 GMT
If youve only just fitted the sip fastflow give it a good test as the sip ones are a well known pita as they leak!! Bgm seem to be the ones to get.. If you decide against the polini vortex system give me a shout..i maybe interested!! Gonna be a while before the old girls back on road but will bare you in mind if I don't like the Polini! SIP tap works real well, been running for couple of months without problems. |
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Post by bryno on Nov 13, 2014 13:06:12 GMT
As said SIP not great, in my experience may as well not come with a lever as petrol still flows regardless of where the lever is.
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me
High Number
Posts: 105
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Post by me on Nov 13, 2014 20:59:01 GMT
Check the rubber gasket in the tap. Had loads through and 1/2 needed a mod to the the rubber, all seem to have a small tar which stops the tap sealing properly and making them slightly weep.
When useing late style carb boxes on early engines watch the gaskets faces match exactly, you find the casting on the block towards the clutch cover is narrower and needs a little grinding of the carb box for it to sit flat.
Obviously if the drive gear isn't there on the early engine you don't need to do anything to the oil pump, just leave it.
The spacer in the pic was the airfilter spacer... but with the velocity stack you wont need it, also remember when fitting the auto lube carbs the air screw is of a different design, thats why the later ones have the long bols not studs and sleeved nuts, if you intend to use the old studs and sleeve nuts then you will need to remove the air screw first and re fit once the carb is bolted down, if useing the later long 7mm allen bolts then no need to remove air screw.
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Post by henri on Nov 14, 2014 9:59:40 GMT
its not just sip taps ,had quite a few new taps that are faulty from new , piaggio genuines/indian patterns , standard stuff for scoot bits but annoying all the same .H
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Post by vespasco on Nov 14, 2014 10:29:32 GMT
This is what happens when you buy parts and bolt them on without checking them first. Or is it just me that likes to pull new stuff apart to check its going to work/try to improve upon it?!  The first thing i done when i received my new $1,000,000 plug n play clutch was to pull it apart!! |
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Post by bryno on Nov 14, 2014 12:11:55 GMT
i'd not expect to buy something as simple as a petrol tap and then take it apart and modify it to work as an err.. tap.
next time the tank has to come out the fast flow is going in the bin and the pefectly good 40 year old original part goes back on ;-)
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Post by henri on Nov 14, 2014 17:07:53 GMT
i always compress n check a clutch from new ,its a no-brainer to me , an usually unless its a known good un will check a tap before bolting tank down in frame .its really annoying to wiggle a tank n lever in an when ya put petrol in it drips out the frame ,or just stinks from a weep, not to mention the potential fire risk, scoots eh,ya got to love em ,even as they drive ya nuts, H
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