|
|
Post by fredperrybruce on Nov 7, 2014 18:41:17 GMT
Hi all,,
I've got a new complete set of bearings to replace the old crap in my engine and was wondering what's the best tools to make the job stress free??
Cheers
|
|
|
|
Post by jedihunter on Nov 7, 2014 19:37:25 GMT
The freezer, and the oven work well. Warm the cases, freeze the bearings, and they usually drop in (at least mine did). A heat gun works too.
|
|
|
|
Post by henri on Nov 7, 2014 20:00:35 GMT
as above , an a calm straight forward approach , if they dont go in easyish dont try n force em ,you can destroy cases/bearings that way , an as soon as there in a blast of brake cleaner to drive out any frost thats formed an 1 off wd40 to be sure theres no moisture ,then a big squirt of 2 stroke oil ,stops any surface rust startin before the engines run , H
|
|
|
|
Post by vespasco on Nov 7, 2014 20:20:32 GMT
Edit* there were no replies when i started typing got distracted! So, also as H above^^^^^^^ Ill be doing the same job this weekend. The best tools are going to be those that are made for the job. For bearings...a bearing punch! One made specifically for vespas. You can buy these rather expensive tools, that you may only use once, or Ive since found out you can buy the tools direct from india, where they are still made, for less than half price of most european stockists I took a punt recently... and ordered one cheap crank puller...... At the weekend i made 3 x orders to 3 x different dealers... Beedspeed - clutch seal arrived Wednesday  Classic Enfield (in India via ebay) - crankshaft tool arrived Thursday!! £15 + £6 p&p .. Then i spotted an even cheaper one! I wish i ordered a proper bearing and seal punch now! Sip - clutch bearing and few nuts and washers arrived today, friday I wasnt sure on the customs charges so kept the order from india cheap. Theres no sign of any customs charges due either! If youre stuck for something to use try using your old bearing as a punch, perfect size!! And it wont ruin your bearing. Place an old t shirt inbetween the bearings in case any debris from the hammer gets into bearings. be sure to put a solid block underneath the bearing housing to support the cases as you knock it in with a heavy hammer. Heres my crank puller from india...  |
|
|
|
Post by fredperrybruce on Nov 7, 2014 21:03:56 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by fredperrybruce on Nov 7, 2014 21:10:15 GMT
vespasco,,,,,how the bloody hell do I upload photo's like you have in your last post. every time I try the site tell's me my pics are to large to upload. I shrink them down and still won't have it?  |
|
|
|
Post by vespasco on Nov 7, 2014 23:45:03 GMT
Try something such as Photobucket, Dropbox, etc etc and copy and paste the ![]() link into your post. Search on here... Sime6BuscuitTs made a thread all about it Im well chuffed the crank puller came through....and so quickly too!! |
|
|
|
Post by vespasco on Nov 8, 2014 19:46:10 GMT
Installed the crank today.... Thats the eaiest and quickest ive ever done it....with my new crank puller... Which also fits the drive shaft so that pulled in nice and easy too! I froze the bearings for about 2hour and warmed the cases up with a heatgun for 5 minutes. Applied bearing compound, fitted bearing which went in about 1/2 way, after a couple of small knocks in was fully home!!! Then i fitted the (new? Or LML??) Rolf clutch seals which apparently ?? Can be used in old and new cases?!? Well, im gonna give it a go... Hopefully dispel a few myths. I also fitted a SIP perforamce 9 ball bearing...again, a bit of an experiment,,time will tell if they are as good as the stock Nadella (8 ball) bearings?! Heres the varying array of clutch bearings and seals...  Fom top left: PX clutch bearing from beedspeed...actually a RMS brand SIP performance 9 ball Nadella / Piaggio 8 ball Rolf clutch seal Gofero brown fly seal Corteco fly seal blue Corteco brown metal with blue rubber Corteco blue rubber Corteco brown metal with brown rubber seal Upto now Ive always used brown metal with brown rubber seals with Nadella clutch bearing. Lets see how these go. |
|
|
|
Post by fredperrybruce on Nov 8, 2014 21:34:09 GMT
vespasco,,, I'm very jealous of the part's you have brought "that's quite a selection you have"!! I've been busy myself, I've managed to remove all the bearings from the casing with help from my heat gun and a large nylon hammer Ordered up all new seals ,just need main bearing and rear axle bearing , then the re-assembaly begins. I'm gonna replace everything apart from the crankshaft , I couldn't believe how mashed up the bearings and seals that I took out looked like!! Keep me updated on your progress as I'm taking notes !! |
|
|
|
Post by fredperrybruce on Nov 8, 2014 21:40:31 GMT
Just another quick question?? Should there be any play in the crank arm from side to side, I have 1/2 mm of play when I wiggle the arm??  |
|
|
|
Post by henri on Nov 9, 2014 16:13:27 GMT
the conrod will move side to side between the crank webs ,but there should be no play at all if you pull it vertically away from crank n push back , if theres any play/click or even crunch the big end is gone ,but you'd probably had heard the "rumbling" last time scoot ran if its shot, H
|
|
|
|
Post by fredperrybruce on Nov 9, 2014 18:04:28 GMT
Cheers Henri,,, no play forward's & backwards just a little side to side, so will go with that and install back into scoot.  |
|
|
|
Post by vespasco on Nov 9, 2014 21:41:33 GMT
Which bearings and seals are you going to go for fpb?
Before you stick all your gaskets down, try a 'dry fit' first, take some measurements, even if you only measure your deck height and squish gap,that would help later on should you have any problems or queries about your kit.
Good luck with your rebuild.
|
|
