DVLA have just informed me

[doulsy]

that my p200e chassis number does not match they're records, been waiting to start restoring this scooter really thought it was all original, i checked the chassis and engine number on that scooter help website, and the both came up as a 78 p200e, checked the reg number on dvla and it came up as a blue 78 p200e, i have took the frame back to bare metal and the frame is defo blue from factory, just seems a bit strange, girl at the dvla says its very common with old scooters,  8th of may i applied for a log book and still not got one, i am waiting on another letter they have sent to explain or whatever, any way is a non original frame a big issue? it has kind of put me off a bit, whats the point restoring something that's not original? i could just buy newer scooter and save myself all the work. wonder if im going to have issues with the wiring loom ect, did the original have a battery? should a 6v horn be on it when everything else is 12v?

[rab]

you may have to get the frame authenticated to prove it is what you say then dvla will issue the v5 its only £7 then dvla will send out a v5 as its proven genuine. it could be that it was an import at some point and not uk regd. if its from out side the uk then you have to authenticate. build. mot and insure then apply for the v5 and possibly end up on a q plate but thats worse case scenarioand still quite easy just a bit of a ball ach

[doulsy]

Sept 25, 2014 21:31:00 GMT rab said:

you may have to get the frame authenticated to prove it is what you say then dvla will issue the v5 its only £7 then dvla will send out a v5 as its proven genuine. it could be that it was an import at some point and not uk regd. if its from out side the uk then you have to authenticate. build. mot and insure then apply for the v5 and possibly end up on a q plate but thats worse case scenario

she said the registration was ok, she said to put a covering letter in with the form, told her the bike has lay  for 20 year and it was in the the property when the lady bought her house, she said to send pictures of the bike when i got it and strongly hinted that a v5 will be sent out as soon as i return the form and they check that none of the scooter's numbers match any other registered vespa.

[doulsy]

Sept 25, 2014 22:28:01 GMT @garry said:

this might help

www.vespaclubofbritain.co.uk/dating-certificates/

thanks, it seems to come up on they're system as a vespa douglas p200e, they said the frame numbers don't match but it seems the new frame matches the year of original engine and reg, frame has been swapped like for like but dvla not been notified, if they give me a q reg, i won't be restoring it.

[bryno]

So frame number does not match the one recorded against that reg number, so at some point identities have been changed.

It will kill the project if they now find that frame number is recorded as stolen or written off, hopefully not.

If not, then you 'should' get a new age related plate or they may issue you with the correct original plate for that frame number if it is not currently owned by anyone!.

Hope it works out ok.

[doulsy]

Sept 26, 2014 7:49:49 GMT bryno said:

So frame number does not match the one recorded against that reg number, so at some point identities have been changed.

It will kill the project if they now find that frame number is recorded as stolen or written off, hopefully not.

If not, then you 'should' get a new age related plate or they may issue you with the correct original plate for that frame number if it is not currently owned by anyone!.

Hope it works out ok.

thanks, i wish they would just hurry up and tell me one way or the other, bought the scooter in may, first two weeks i stripped it, took the frame down to bare metal, needs a floor pan and  tons of other stuff for the restore so i have held of buying stuff till i got the dvla thing sorted.

[henri]

ive used britishlambretta archive for date-certs before ,7 quid n quick ,an maybe a "age related" plate rather than 1 on scoot , means ya need a mot n insurance an 55quid + tax (17) to get a v5c . def get on an start weldin n big jobs ,its still a 78 p200 no matter what numbers on the plate ,thats what ya bought to do an even if numbers/chassis have been swapped ,an it being changed gives ya the freedom to choose which "original" 1 ya want ,battery/none ,12v/6v ,
an how bout sum piccys of work so far ,H

[doulsy]

[henri]

nice touch with the sunnies ,looks like a really good base for a project ,an looks like youve got the shed space n nice comp to spray with ,from earlyier post you reckoned on re-flooring it ,from piccys i'd reccomend just patching an replacing floor supports rather than new floor ,unless theres issues with center tunnel/saddle area ya need to fix whilst floors off, its loads easier n less risky for distortion ,an also a big line of rigid weld where leggys n floor are joined can give cracking problems in paint n joints later on ,as frame will flex when ridden an the weld wont flex evenly with the rest giving a weak point , a lapped joint spreads the load more but is almost immpossible to hide well .
also the quality of floor panels is variable to say the least ,if ya stick a phone on video recording an a torch down into frame under tank an up through brake block area it will give ya a good idea of the frames "health" an wether floor needs to come off, H

[doulsy]

Sept 28, 2014 18:50:01 GMT henri said:

nice touch with the sunnies ,looks like a really good base for a project ,an looks like youve got the shed space n nice comp to spray with ,from earlyier post you reckoned on re-flooring it ,from piccys i'd reccomend just patching an replacing floor supports rather than new floor ,unless theres issues with center tunnel/saddle area ya need to fix whilst floors off, its loads easier n less risky for distortion ,an also a big line of rigid weld where leggys n floor are joined can give cracking problems in paint n joints later on ,as frame will flex when ridden an the weld wont flex evenly with the rest giving a weak point , a lapped joint spreads the load more but is almost immpossible to hide well .
also the quality of floor panels is variable to say the least ,if ya stick a phone on video recording an a torch down into frame under tank an up through brake block area it will give ya a good idea of the frames "health" an wether floor needs to come off, H

every body says patch it up, i work in a body shop, i dont think a new floor is a problem, i suppose i could patch it but it looks quite solid when you look inside, i looked into and you can use a brace, never restored a vespa before though only vw's

[doulsy]

and that's my my work, up the side of the spray booth lol, had a few project in that corner

[rab]

you have it back to metal its stripped why would you patch it up go with your heart do it properly

[bryno]

I'd say patch floor aswell, in my expereince hardest bit is to replcate the seam where the floor joins the tunnel to look 'factory', and of course making a seamless join between the floor and the leggies looking good both sides with no filler is a challenge, though if you're a body man that bit should not be an issue.

[henri]

i'm a welder/fabricater myself n do scoot resto's as a hobby , firstly if ya do a whole floor weld a scaff bar or 3-4" box section from seat nose to stem, you wont believe how much "heat distortion" a scoot frame will do, they flex when riding an it builds tensions into em that pop out as ya cut n shut,
as ya a vw man ,think welding across a thin roof on a camper van with a weak chassis/bodypan , loads of work to get sweet n first time its driven roof flexes n paint cracks n pops off , as said earlyier from pics of top floor is well saveable ,an replacing floor supports underneath is a load easier/quicker job than a whole floor ,
if ya do go for it with spot weld cutter (there fun when sharp) at least ya can rust treat n paint inside chassis ,take piccys n it will be reflected in price if ya going to sell, an for a few vespa hints n tips check out the welding tips stickys thread in the tech section of the vespasmallframe forum , will give you a better idea of how a vespa is put together an how to dismantle ,theres another thread in the projects bit "in 1 word ambitious" where a guys gone nuts with a spot-weld cutter an ended up with a vespa shaped jigsaw puzzle ,shows ya where most spot welds are ,
an also check out the edge trim tools thread aswell ,shows the easiest way to make up beading tools to get edge right , 10mm bar n molegrips an a off-cut of pipe , 10mm for large frames n 8mm for smalls, an as bryno says the join from floor to tunnel can be tricky ,n unless done with a spot welder wont look factory , i plug weld mine ,an rather than tag at both ends as some do, start at leggy end an work back ,that way any expansion/shrinking an warping can be dealt with as ya go along keeping seam tight between plugs loads easyier , ya got to take loads of time dressing tunnel face dead flat n then plug welding in pairs 1 each side an totally cooled before nxt pair ,an as always ya can never have too many clamps on the job ,
hope ya dont feel "i'm preachin to the choir" or givin egg suckin lessons ,jus i found out how diff welding vespas is to cars/bikes an wish somebody had tipped me the wink 1st ,as ya in a body shop i'm sure you'll manage it ,jus hope any tips i given will save ya time/grief , any question in particular jus message me or ask on this thread , ive got sum piccys of my last 1 if ya want a gander , H

[doulsy]

thanks for the replies and advice, had another look at the floor today, all the rotted bits are on the one side, i read a guide on how to go about this and i think replacing the floor would be better than trying to repair it, the floor support's underneath look solid but all the rot is at the seam anyway, i would like a look at some image's Henri, thanks.