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Post by jimc1967 on Dec 19, 2012 15:58:00 GMT
When topping up brake fluid on a PX should it be done when the bike is on its stand or when supported off the stand and is level?
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Post by shaunpx on Dec 19, 2012 18:36:26 GMT
In Haynes manual it describes and shows pics bleeding the frontd disc brake and topping up the reservoir while on centre stand doesn't mention taking it off the stand
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Post by kru251 on Dec 19, 2012 18:37:53 GMT
I renewed my brake fluid the other day on my PX (should be done every two years at the latest) and set it up with scoot on its wheels on level ground. Seems to work well enough after I finished!
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Post by sbwnik on Dec 19, 2012 19:47:04 GMT
I'd do it off the stand too - you don't ride it on the stand, do you?
On the other hand, it may have been designed so that the sight class is in the right place when it's on the stand...
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Post by Robjack on Dec 19, 2012 20:08:59 GMT
(should be done every two years at the latest) *gulp* Never done it. |
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Post by jimc1967 on Dec 19, 2012 20:24:16 GMT
Thanks for the replies, saw in the Haynes manual the bike was on the stand but makes more sense to me that it should be level on the ground when topping up.
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Post by kru251 on Dec 19, 2012 20:50:04 GMT
(should be done every two years at the latest) *gulp* Never done it. Well, brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs water. Now although water is incompressible, the brake fluid can get hot and turn to steam if the brake is used a lot, say on long down hills etc. After all, the resevoir on the master cylinder isn't exactly enormous is it? Result = lever pulls to the twist grip/no front brake. Quick & easy to change so a good job to do it. |
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Post by sbwnik on Dec 19, 2012 21:57:18 GMT
FTR - easiest way I've found.
Pick 24 hours when you don't need the bike.
Take the lid off the reservoir.
Drain it through the bleed nipple.
Once empty, tighten the nipple and start to fill.
Once it gets to the top, pump the lever a few times and then hold. The level should drop slightly.
Top it up again.
Get a zip tie and fasten the lever to the handlebar.
Go and get a brew, have a fag, put your feet up, watch some telly, go to bed, get up and go check...
Sorted!
Put the lid back on and the jobs done.
I've done about a dozen like this and it always works.
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Post by bryno on Dec 20, 2012 8:35:22 GMT
Vespa & brake fluid.. that is just soo wrong, next they will be fitting 4 strokes!  |
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Post by kru251 on Dec 20, 2012 8:56:03 GMT
Vespa & brake fluid.. that is just soo wrong, next they will be fitting 4 strokes! LOL ! If the Eurocrats get their way I think youll be right. They don't quite sound right eh? |
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Post by bryno on Dec 20, 2012 13:20:02 GMT
No, they creep up on you like electric cars do!  |
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Post by kru251 on Dec 20, 2012 20:48:37 GMT
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Post by sbwnik on Dec 20, 2012 21:32:59 GMT
Erm
Vespa GTS?
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Post by bryno on Dec 21, 2012 18:25:18 GMT
doesn't count Nik |
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Post by sbwnik on Dec 21, 2012 22:27:32 GMT
Dinosaur. |
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Post by kru251 on Dec 22, 2012 0:08:44 GMT
;D  |
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Post by sbwnik on Dec 22, 2012 22:57:52 GMT
So if you were offered a GTS 250 at a decent price, you'd turn it down?
I'd not..
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Post by sbwnik on Dec 22, 2012 22:58:20 GMT
Wouldn't flog 'One Careful Owner' to fund it though!
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Post by kru251 on Dec 22, 2012 23:09:06 GMT
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Post by bryno on Dec 23, 2012 15:40:29 GMT
So if you were offered a GTS 250 at a decent price, you'd turn it down? I'd not.. Yep, or I'd just stick it straight on ebay |
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Post by sbwnik on Dec 23, 2012 19:51:09 GMT
I'd love a GTS, make rally miles a lot easier!
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Post by Rudi on Dec 23, 2012 20:24:48 GMT
GTS is a very nice scooter, from a short ride on it- its very fast , quiet....and shock absorbing reminded me a french car (good that is)...
Regarding brake fluid, why top it off? its a closed system and unless you've drained/changed the fluid (or you got a leak), no topping is necessary even if it seems low...
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Post by Robjack on Dec 23, 2012 20:45:27 GMT
That's exactly what I thought Rudi. (re. brake fluid) I normally do my own servicing, but I have had a couple professionally done. Would the fluid have been changed then as part of the service?
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Post by kru251 on Dec 23, 2012 21:49:11 GMT
Re. Fluid change at service. Check the bill from the garage. They'll have charged for it if they have. It's not mileage activated though. It's time. Do nil miles in two years and it'll still need a fluid change (technically). As the fluid starts absorbing water from the atmosphere as soon as it is exposed, two years is about right for a change. SIMPLES.
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Post by Robjack on Dec 23, 2012 22:05:59 GMT
I get that, but like Rudi said, why would it be exposed if it's a sealed system?
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Post by kru251 on Dec 24, 2012 0:34:29 GMT
They are vented on 'sealed' systems. They won't work correctly without air gap over the fluid. That's why they have a level marking that is below the top of the master cylinder. Try overfilling one to the top and putting the lid & seal on the master cylinder. Then, squeeze the lever and watch the fluid come out of the breather. True, but take my word for it as brake fluid also makes a mess of paintwork so better not to try it.
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Post by Rudi on Dec 24, 2012 9:00:48 GMT
They are vented on 'sealed' systems. .... The area above the reservoir retractable rubber seal is vented, to avoid vacuum (when fluid level drops), but the system's brake fluid below this rubber does not come in contact with outside air. There is some trapped air in the reservoir but that's about it... |
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Post by kru251 on Dec 24, 2012 10:11:06 GMT
Well leave it in as long as you like then ;D I'm sure it'll all be fine. BUT I'll just follow the procedure I always have as it's my neck not yours on my scoot; lol. It is only a small amount exposed to the air but these aren't exactly mega master cylinders are they? Just not worth not doing for what equates to about 15 minutes from getting a bleed tool, catch jar, resevoir cap off, brake fluid tin open, job done & all put away (using my method not Niks). That is every two years? Well I'll say like L'oreal "'cos I'm worth it" |
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Post by pxguru on Dec 24, 2012 10:40:57 GMT
Well I for one am changing my brake fluid when I get home. Thanks for the post to remind me Might as well put new pads in at the same time. Anyone have a disc pad recomendation for a quicker than average scoot? |
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Post by kru251 on Dec 24, 2012 18:01:34 GMT
While in Somerset a couple of days back I dropped into Trago Mills for a mooch around the tools etc as yer do and found one of these VisiBleed kits. Due to 'our' conversations on here, it was in my mind & I decided to renew mine as my previous version to this one is about 15 years old and getting a bit tired. It was just 3.39ukp from them or this seems a good price too as it includes postage:- www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-BLEED-PIPE-FOR-CARS-BIKES-VANS-TRACTORS-VISIBLEED-BRAKE-BLEEDING-/400360665422?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d375af14eJust attach to the bleed nipple with the end in a jar to catch fluid. Open the nipple a tad, then pump brake lever a couple of times. Add new fluid to the master cylinder and repeat. No need to close off the nipple as the one way valve sorts that out and continue 'till you can see the new fluid is running into the catch container. Tighten the nipple and job done. |
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