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Post by joeyiowpx125 on Jun 15, 2012 20:16:40 GMT
Evening, I know that there is probably I guide/ wiring diagram on here but I hae searched for days with success, but could some please help. I want to add 3 spot lights to my px125. All coming off the horn casing in a sort of triangle formation with 1 coming out upwards just above the grill and 2 off the side of the horn casing possibly. Was wondering if it's possible to run them off my headlamp switch? If so how do wire them in? Thanks joe
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Post by sbwnik on Jun 15, 2012 21:54:33 GMT
You've a good chance of melting your switch, and I doubt it would be legal.
Does yours have a battery?
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Post by joeyiowpx125 on Jun 15, 2012 22:41:28 GMT
Yeah it does it's an electric start.
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Post by kru251 on Jun 16, 2012 18:06:34 GMT
To save hassle I have just wired in a mates PX125 lights (4 x spots) on his front crash bar. Used a 12v 17AHr golf cart battery in the tool box on a total loss system ie. needs charging up when you get home. Have allowed for 35w (Lambretta headlight) H4's in the two centre spots either side of the headlight and the 55w setting for the two outer spots (rather than the 60w). That lot draws 15amps, so theoretically he has just over an hour on these before the battery dies but probably an hour is a good working time.
Pro's :- Easy to wire in and fuse. Easy to fit a suitable switch. No worries if left turned on in flattening your starter battery etc and can be left on while engine is not running.
Cons:- Extra weight and space and having to buy a battery if you don't already have one as he did.
Works well.
I have also just modified an LED set of nine cluster light on a single lamp as per an H1 type bulb. It was too long by about 10mm to fit the Cibie 'Oscar' spotlight. This is for my Jimmy Lambretta replica. The standard 55w spotlight would last about 1.15 hrs and produce lots of heat as well as light. New shortened LED cluster bulb was tested and I gave up at 24 hrs waiting for it to dim on my 12v 7AHr battery!!!!
So if you are happy to use H4 LED replacements you could achieve much longer battery run times at the expense of not quite so bright an output.
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Post by sbwnik on Jun 16, 2012 21:56:39 GMT
Or you can run it the proper way off the scooter battery.
Mount a switch on the top of your toolbox, and a spotlight relay inside it.
Run a lead from the battery, and then on to the relay (look for instructions as to which connections on the web, I can't remember!). Run a spur off the headlamp wire to the switch, and then on to the relay. From the opposite side run back to the loom. Off the other side of the relay to the wire in, run to the spotlights. Earth each light in turn.
Job done.
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Post by kru251 on Jun 17, 2012 22:30:25 GMT
Oh, that true, but you didn't seem to think it a good idea when I suggested adding a brake light bulb that was 15w rather than the ten watts normal. Quote sbwnik from a previous posting:- "The output from the regulator is fixed and the regulator itself can be rather fragile when it comes to overload. I've blown them by just adding 15w to the headlamp in the past, other people run them for years without issue." So, I took your advice when adding 180watts of spotlight power and ran them 'safe' especially on someone elses scooter!!!  |
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Post by sbwnik on Jun 18, 2012 20:43:28 GMT
Yup, but that's on the AC side, not on the DC... And I'd certainly go with the LED bulbs, I think that's a given.
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Post by sbwnik on Jun 18, 2012 20:45:22 GMT
I should also have suggested finding a larger battery than 9Ah too.... Again, I took that for granted, sorry.
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Post by joelaspisa on Jun 12, 2013 11:12:04 GMT
To save hassle I have just wired in a mates PX125 lights (4 x spots) on his front crash bar. Used a 12v 17AHr golf cart battery in the tool box on a total loss system ie. needs charging up when you get home. Have allowed for 35w (Lambretta headlight) H4's in the two centre spots either side of the headlight and the 55w setting for the two outer spots (rather than the 60w). That lot draws 15amps, so theoretically he has just over an hour on these before the battery dies but probably an hour is a good working time. Pro's :- Easy to wire in and fuse. Easy to fit a suitable switch. No worries if left turned on in flattening your starter battery etc and can be left on while engine is not running. Cons:- Extra weight and space and having to buy a battery if you don't already have one as he did. Works well. I have also just modified an LED set of nine cluster light on a single lamp as per an H1 type bulb. It was too long by about 10mm to fit the Cibie 'Oscar' spotlight. This is for my Jimmy Lambretta replica. The standard 55w spotlight would last about 1.15 hrs and produce lots of heat as well as light. New shortened LED cluster bulb was tested and I gave up at 24 hrs waiting for it to dim on my 12v 7AHr battery!!!! So if you are happy to use H4 LED replacements you could achieve much longer battery run times at the expense of not quite so bright an output. sound a good way to do what battery is best and LED bulb please |
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Post by joelaspisa on Jun 12, 2013 11:13:10 GMT
sound a good way to do what battery is best and LED bulb please
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Post by kru251 on Jul 17, 2013 23:50:24 GMT
Battery used is a 12v 17aHr type dry cell. Heavy ish but effective!!!!!
LED's ? Ebay have them.
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