|
Post by Devo McDuff on Jun 26, 2008 23:57:35 GMT
It went on the way home tonight. Is this common? Not being 100% sure how to replace it and with there being bloody awful torrential rain I didn't think it was the best time to try to learn. So I called the MCE breakdown service. A big hairy biker with more Harley gear than Hulk Hogan and more tattoos than David Beckham turned up. He was very apprehensive about having a go as he had never been near a Vespa but once he started he was amazed at how easy it was, was impressed with the permanent outer setup. Watching him do it, it actually looked pretty straight forward so will have a go myself next time The clutch does feel a bit lighter now though so I'll have to have a look at tightening it.
|
|
Ian
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 78
|
Post by Ian on Jun 27, 2008 7:17:35 GMT
Devo, It seems odd that it snapped so soon as I know your scoot is fairly new..? How many miles has your machine done?
|
|
|
Post by sterice (Ricey) on Jun 27, 2008 12:30:18 GMT
Know how you felt, I came to work on the Rally yesterday and on the way to work the clutch felt a bit tight going into 1st but ok in the others. Anyway as is always the case it rained on the way home and cable snapped 5 mins after leaving the office . Decide to plod on as did not fancy stopping on the M57 especially in the monsoon that followed me home. No probs until I got back on to the A roads were I need to gauge the traffic to ensure that I kept the gear changing to a min. Luckily only had to stop twice – in the old days I must have been slightly lighter as it don’t wheel much when I started off ;D ;D Now need to change the cable and it over 20 years since I last did that so wish me luck.
|
|
|
Post by sirscootalot on Jun 27, 2008 20:19:21 GMT
sorry to here that devo hopefully next time wont be that soon
|
|
|
Post by Robjack on Jun 27, 2008 20:45:59 GMT
This happened to me a fortnight ago, first time for me. I thought it had snapped but it turned out that the nipple had come off at the clutch end. After half an hour of roadside swearing, I faced up to my mechanical incompetence and called in a few favours from mates. In the end I (we) had to take off the exhaust (Simonini - another reason for all you Simonini haters) Once that was off the job was relatively simple. At least I learnt that my "handy sized" socket set is not up to the job and will need to be replaced with a decent one asap.
|
|
|
Post by sue on Jun 27, 2008 22:16:06 GMT
happened to me once on route to cala gran. but we wont go into that. cheers to jeff for the pot noodle tho ;D
|
|
|
Post by Devo McDuff on Jun 28, 2008 17:16:20 GMT
Ian - Had the bike 2 years and done about 7500KM. Am going to be putting another 1000 miles+ on the clock next month when I do a wee tour of Scotland Ricey - Can you still change gear then without using the clutch? That doesn't sound like a good idea! Rob - Was actually thinking of getting a Simmoni pipe when I get a kit, food for though there then. I wonder if the rumbling issues when coming to a stop I had a few weeks ago (only happened once last week)?
|
|
|
Post by sterice (Ricey) on Jun 28, 2008 22:41:16 GMT
Devo it’s not something that’s recommended but it was either ride it a it was with no clutch or stop on the hard shoulder of the M57 in a monsoon – riding it home seemed the safer option.
Kept the revs down and gently changed up and down and it helped that I was on the motorway as this meant not too many gear changes.
Fitted the new clutch cable today and it seems to be ok, only time will tell,
Robjack - I had the same problem on the Rally has it’s been modified so the Simonini fits and it was real pain as it covers the clutch lever and makes it hard to get you hand in.
Won’t be an issue for long, as I plan to fit a standard exhaust on the Rally ASAP.
|
|
|
Post by Devo McDuff on Jun 30, 2008 9:00:23 GMT
It occurred to me this morning that the cable should probably have been greased before-hand, it wasn't.
Should it? And if so, should I really be redoing it?
|
|
|
Post by skrappey on Jun 30, 2008 11:36:14 GMT
In my experience the cable usually (99/100) snaps at the handlebar end because of the wear it gets there and because the elements can get at that end easily, also it's not the cable snapping as such, more the end fraying due to constant bending at the lever. Dremel inside the nipple housing to reduce snagging of the nipple. Apply grease in this area of the cable to keep the elements, mainly water, at bay. The inside cable should not need greasing but no harm in running it through a greasy rag as you insert it, unless it's a friction free cable inner and outer. Remember that grease keeps water at bay but does retain dust and stuff in the air. Your choice.
|
|
|
Post by Devo McDuff on Jun 30, 2008 19:19:01 GMT
Ta Skrappey. I put some grease on the area you mentioned before.
|
|
fatboy
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 20
|
Post by fatboy on Sept 1, 2008 18:33:03 GMT
I do 140 miles a week and mine goes every 6 months or so. have the two wrenchs (7mm and 9mm i think) in my tool box with spare nipple and cable at ALL times cos you can guarentee the day i dont...
anyhow, my point was that my tip would always be to get some clearance from the ground - if you can back the scoot up some bricks (there is generally a wheely bin to lean against, in ny experience) it makes the business of holding the clutch lever back while tightening the nut a lot easier..,
|
|
|
Post by dave1967 on Sept 1, 2008 19:53:43 GMT
Just an idea but theres a guy on ebay sells a cable adjuster buy one its a great bit of kit, for those of you who done the Ride out at the iow my mates clutch cable on his GL snapped just as we came out of the carpark, so there we was changing the bloody thing while the ride out left without us, we had it done and were back on the ride out in under 10 minutes and we had to take the headlamp out as the inner cable moved. the adjusters mean that you can tighten the cable without having to ponce around with pliers. I have also found that if you change your levers it is an idea to check the size of the hole the nipple goes in and the cable goes through as i found some rub the inner cable and cause premature fraying.
|
|
|
Post by toyclean on Sept 2, 2008 7:33:42 GMT
Hey Dave, have you got more details of that cable adjuster? I tried but couldn't find it on ebay. Cheers.
|
|
|
Post by Devo McDuff on Sept 2, 2008 10:57:37 GMT
I do 140 miles a week and mine goes every 6 months or so. have the two wrenchs (7mm and 9mm i think) in my tool box with spare nipple and cable at ALL times cos you can guarentee the day i dont... I think it might be 8 and 9mm .... at least that's what I now keep in my glovebox for the next time the bugger goes ;D
|
|
|
Post by dave1967 on Sept 3, 2008 19:50:29 GMT
Hi All Heres the item number for the cable adjuster on ebay 170255192265
Cheers dave
|
|
|
Post by skrappey on Sept 3, 2008 20:36:32 GMT
Another tip for this particular task, use a bungy, you must have one to be a scooterist, hook it round the clutch operating lever and clip it to the furthest point away it will reach (usually the front wheel/suspension) this will hold the lever at tension until you've done up the nuts. It will be roughly where it should using this method, as long as you've backed off the adjuster to the utmost. Even with a simonini it works, I've used it often. After it's done up just unhook the bungy.
|
|
|
Post by toyclean on Sept 22, 2008 19:38:18 GMT
Hey Skrappey, What do you mean by 'it will be roughly where it should be'? If the operating arm is in a certain spot then the clutch lever will be also, does that mean the biting point as felt at the handlebar end shoudl be in a certain spot? I'm askign cos after fiddling with the clutch operatign arm my biting point is now much sooner than it was before. As a learner rider with small hands (no jokes pls) this is a pain especially changing down, which I find a struggle anyways. Anyway, I might have misunderstood you so let me know. Cheers.
|
|
|
Post by skrappey on Sept 22, 2008 19:46:23 GMT
With the bungy it will hold the arm at contact with the cam. Meaning there will be only slight adjustment necessary for proper operation. If it pulls the arm beyond contact it is too tight. The idea is to take up the slack so to speak, not partly operate the clutch. It takes away the need to hold the arm and try to do up the clamp with the same hand. If the biting point is too close just back it off with the adjuster, that's what it's for. You have to allow for a certain amount of cable stretch in the first few days also. Give it a bit of throttle when changing down, it sometimes helps.
|
|
|
Post by skrappey on Sept 22, 2008 19:48:15 GMT
Or buy some 'dogs leg' levers, they'll help.
|
|