|
Post by antvespa on Mar 18, 2019 12:08:29 GMT
Maybe a bit of penetrating oil to soak the splines for a few hours, then tap radially around the edge of the hub with a nylon or hide mallet? Worked a treat thank you - I thought I needed a specialist tool
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Mar 13, 2019 11:54:32 GMT
Does anyone know a good way of removing the rear wheel hub/plate off a Vespa VBB - its the plate with the 4 bolts that attaches the wheel and sits on the main spindled drive axel.
Do I need a special tool? Seems to not want to come off that easily, I removed it about 2 years ago when I took the engine apart but can't remember how i did it.
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Mar 10, 2019 20:15:01 GMT
Hi I'm fitting a spare carrier, the type that bolts to the tunnel and holds the wheel flat to the leggies. However, it isn't predrilled for said accessory. I know roughly where it's going and how to secure it, but I don't know the exact position it's supposed to go! Has anyone done the same job, or does anyone have a machine with threaded holes, and if so, what's the exact position? Thanks I will try to measure where the bolts are for you when im back with the bike this week
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Feb 14, 2019 9:54:06 GMT
Haha that's my other link on MV - to be honest, I always come across unhelpful people on MV that if it's not 100% original they aren't interested.
When i get around to wiring the light I will be back on with questions if i have any.
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Feb 13, 2019 17:20:19 GMT
Antvespa, the bulbs will just clip in, it will be obvious once you have the light in your hands. If you click on the downloads part of your link, it shows what needs soldered. If you are not sure what wire is the driving/ night light and what is the brake light wire, look how they are wired on the light you take off. good luck. Mij☺ Wow now I feel stupid for not clicking the link - the connection looks a lot more Bodge that I was hoping for I must admit. My bike came without a rear light and since being paintedI'vee re-assembling and updating the wiring with a 12v loom so I don't have any reference to which bulb is which.
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Feb 12, 2019 16:55:50 GMT
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Oct 17, 2018 8:59:19 GMT
Upgrading the electrics on my 62 VBB restoration and the new 12v kit comes with a CDi and regulator.
Where do people usually install these on the bike so it's neat and tidy? Drill a hole through the Toolbox side and attach there?
Any other way that doesn't require drilling a hole into my new paintwork?
Would it be too dangerous to attach these 2 parts in the space under where the Petrol tank sits? Worried about petrol and electrics in close proximity?
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Apr 23, 2018 14:29:12 GMT
What is the correct PSi to run on these 8 in tyres - In fairness these are brand new Michelin White wall tyres, new inner tubes and new split rims. I might have to double check how tight and even I bolted the rims back together once on the tyre.
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Apr 22, 2018 18:23:01 GMT
Thanks WIll check them now - new rims as well but the amount of parts i've brought lately half have been terrible quality - ebay and SIP
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Apr 22, 2018 10:45:05 GMT
Putting together my Vespa vbb front end and when mounting the wheel and tyre and spinning it whilst the bikes on the stand it appears the wheel doesn't spin 100% true, slight wobble to it.
Took the wheel off and tighten the hub that sits over the brakes as much as I could but even then when I span that without the wheels attached it looked like it was perfect. The Hub was a new part so could be the issue but i took it off and sat it on a flat surface and couldn't see anything visually distorted with it.
any ideas?
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Mar 29, 2018 14:51:27 GMT
Any chance as you are putting together the bike that you could take a photo of up inside the horn cover where the front steering assembly meets the body? Just want to check mine against someone elses?
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Mar 2, 2018 17:31:35 GMT
ok sounds good, will give it a go this weekend if i can get out from this snow.
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Mar 1, 2018 15:15:39 GMT
as above , but 1st before fitting ya race i'd wiggle the steering lock into place . Why does this make a difference? the forks will be de-assembled for paint anyway
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Mar 1, 2018 15:14:56 GMT
I have the old one off so it's more about fitting a new one!
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Feb 26, 2018 21:50:04 GMT
Looking to replace the upper race on to the frame but it seems like its just impossible to get in. Any tips? Loads of Heat and a frozen race or is that a tool I need? insert code here
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Jan 22, 2018 9:10:32 GMT
Kick only - but struggling to get a spark
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Jan 21, 2018 20:09:00 GMT
Trying to start my engine after a recent rebuild but having trouble with the wiring due to a new 12v conversion kit. Coming out of the stator is a green, red, black, grey and blue wire. I have a rear HT coil with a wire to the spark plug and one connector on it as well. looks like this www.scootermercato.com/core/media/media.nl?id=438&c=643441&h=338262e0146276d54297For the CDI I have this one i.ebayimg.com/images/g/lF0AAOSwDwtUnpjo/s-l300.jpg - Which has a red wire coming out of one side and the other it has some male connectors with the following letters for each - V - violet??, B - Blue, G - x2 Grey/green??? , R - Red. Can anyone explain to me what goes where? I really just want to kick-start the engine to hear it run etc so what do I need to do that as I don't want to connect up the complete wiring loom.
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Jan 10, 2018 17:34:14 GMT
Looking to start the engine this weekend after a full rebuild.
The bike is still de-assembled as various parts are being worked on/painted etc.
What is the best way to start the bike up on a workbench, how much of the electrics need to be plumbed in?
any tips?
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Jan 9, 2018 21:41:46 GMT
Hi,
I'am restoring a 62 VBB and have recently purchased and fitted a new 12v stator and this weekend I want to attempt the wiring. I also want to wire in a hidden kill switch in the left-hand cowel - anyone know how to do this? Thanks
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on May 3, 2016 13:33:02 GMT
Hi All,
I have managed to split the engine (150 VBB1T) since my last post but the internals have seen better days which is nothing to worry about as i had planned on all new bearings, gaskets, seals etc anyway. The Crank though looks very rough and I would hesitate to place that back in the bike.
Whilst the engine is apart id ideally like to add a 177cc Kit, new carb, exhaust and a new crank to match. But whats the best setup for a good reliable (as reliable as a vintage bike could be).
In my head i thought the aluminium Pinasco 177cc kit, SIP Road 2 exhaust and a 20:20 carb. But crank wise what are my options?
Any help would be great.
Thanks
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Apr 25, 2016 22:34:40 GMT
Hi Henri, You right sorry I didn't have it in front me but yes the dowel just below the selector.
Ok so lots of heat and WD40! I'm worried it's seized right in there as it looks to of been sitting for a while in dirt! All the other bolts came out easily and the rest of the engine is splitting nicely apart
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Apr 24, 2016 21:58:54 GMT
Hi,
Having trouble splitting the cases on my Vespa vbb engine! There seems to be a pin at the bottom of the engine just above the selector! It can't be screwed out of hammered out and it's the only part of the casing that isn't coming apart!
The engine wasn't in a Great state to begin with a few seized parts so I'm assuming this is the same!
Any tips on what to do?
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Mar 29, 2016 15:59:01 GMT
Thanks for the tips.
Anything to look out for once the cases are opened? Where to look for damage or wear?
|
|
|
Post by antvespa on Mar 29, 2016 10:44:22 GMT
Hi,
New to the forum but have been reading lots of posts and it appears there is a great amount of knowledge on here.
Myself and a friend are rebuilding 2 Vespa VBB's from the ground up, learning along the way but are having a lot of fun doing it.
We have stripped the frames and they are off to get media blasted to get rid of any nasty paint and rust, using a company in Essex called ctc-powder-coating.co.uk - Guy called Trevor was very helpful.
We are now turning our attentions to the engine.
Both covered in gunk and dirt but have cleaned them up and there appears to be no cracks in the casings, which I'am happy about.
For some reason I can push down the kickstarter to turn it over unless I help it along by rotating the flywheel a bit. Any ideas what this could be? Clutch or gearing stopping me from doing this?
When we open up the casings is there anything to be looking out for to see if they are all ok to start the rebuild?
We plan on changing all of the seals and bearings throughout the engine so its fresh and new.
Any help, tips and recommendations would be great.
Thanks
|
|