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Post by fredperrybruce on Mar 3, 2015 19:39:02 GMT
Check the fuel pipes the right length , I had fuel problems also, changed the tap but still had problems. Problem was the fuel pipe was to long!!! 24" is a good length .
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Post by vespasco on Mar 3, 2015 19:46:08 GMT
Does the oil feed into the carb need blocking off!?!
When i had to drain my full tank, over 8 litres of fuel at a garage in Casablanca, it took me like 5 or 10 minutes just to drain 1 x litre of fuel into an old water bottle. It trickled out of the pipe/banjo outlet (i didnt remove the tank, just kept the end of the pipe as low as possible, which ain't much)!! but its just how it is, or at least appears to be. Its worked fine for many years like that, even on my mildly tuned 225 i use now...although i have just fitted a BGM fastflow, it was so cheap i just had to.
Im not convinced running @ 3% is a good idea
Whats wrong with your cdi?
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Post by kidda on Mar 3, 2015 20:06:56 GMT
Had an issue with it cutting out after about 4 miles,never been entirely happy with the tap when I fitted it so fitted a new one and seems flow alot quicker,what percentage would you recommend?i thought 3% because I've still got to run it in on a malossi 166 kit
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Post by kidda on Mar 3, 2015 20:10:44 GMT
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Post by vespasco on Mar 3, 2015 20:41:06 GMT
Ah yeh. I thought the reason for your cutting out was a heat seize. Try the old cdi once its all running fine, you never know. 2% is fine, others will say 3%, take your pick. Take your time when running it in too!
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Post by kidda on Mar 3, 2015 20:55:07 GMT
Think it was but thought going order a new one just in case, to be honest I'm thinking it was down to the oil leak from the gasket was the cause of the partial sieze but also thinking the cutting out was due to a fuel starvation from the tap
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Post by rab on Mar 3, 2015 21:07:23 GMT
id stick at 2% mix and do a plug check/chop see how its running i only mix extra 2 to be on safe side (3%) ie if i fill the tank from empty i do 2% then add one more markers worth as i do quite a lot of constant 55 to 60 mph speeds but as i say thats me going on the safe side and its below 3% mix if i work it out. any plug colour adjustment can be done via your main jet running at 2%.i also use a b8 plug i was on a b9 on the mollosi but that was tuned to the edge of life ive found a b8 runs a lot better than a b7 on my dr for the type of riding i do. you may find a b7 is better if you do a lot more town riding than open road
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Post by kidda on Mar 3, 2015 23:29:44 GMT
Nice 1,I should take it out sometime this week see how it runs,fingers crossed
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Post by vespasco on Mar 4, 2015 19:56:32 GMT
If/when you check your plug keep your oil mix ratio constant , otherwise you could end up thinking its black and too rich, when in fact you could just have too much oil and be running slightly lean!
I have a similar riding style to rab, long 3/4 - WOT runs, strictly 2% has never been a problem but i have a nikasil lined ali cylinder so not sure how much that affects things. Although it shouldnt really matter what the cylinders made from. Its how its set up that matters. So make sure you get yours running sweet before thrashing the pants off it. Keep an eye on your plug too, especially if its not running sweet.
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Post by kidda on Mar 5, 2015 2:41:51 GMT
Just a quick one about spark plugs, I'm sure I'm running a B6HS (off the top of my head because at work and can't check)do you think this plug is too hot for the malossi 166 kit?cheers
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Post by pxguru on Mar 5, 2015 4:07:14 GMT
Kidda, post a picture of the plug and I will be able to tell you if it is too hot.
Just for the record, the temperature rating of the spark plug is for the correct operation of the spark plug itself. This has very little affect on the engine running, performance or engine temperature, unless the plug number is way out and then the plug can be quickly knackered or melted.
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Post by kidda on Mar 5, 2015 5:33:52 GMT
Cheers,to be honest it looked ok when I stripped it down again a nice choclatey brown in colour,I'll go 2 premix then keep an eye on it,it just threw me abit with different ratings for different plugs ie b6 runs hotter than a b8 so was wondering wether change to a different rating plug,cheers
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Post by henri on Mar 5, 2015 9:06:49 GMT
i run all mine on b7's ,mostly doing ten mile or less runs ,but usually at WOT or tickover ,traffic light bandit that i am, i do keep a b8 in case of any longer thrashes but rarely swap to it , the best explanation of reading a plug ive found is through a link on the vespasmallframes forum stickys "tuning" thread . the apply name "www.smellofdeath" one if memory serves .it an the other links there show you the colours/patterns an where to look to read a plug .for heat range its the centre earth electrode ya looking at , the tip should be clean an colour upto about half its length .colour to the end an its too cold to clean itself so go down a number , no colour or white/yellow flakys runnin too hot an go up a number . ok, hope that helps ,but i'd probably just stick a b7 in an see what its like . an if you decide to run 3% upjet atleast 1 size or it will lean you out , H
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Post by kidda on Mar 5, 2015 23:31:17 GMT
Ok cheers,I'm running a 105 maint jet at the mo so will see how it runs,I'll take it out over the wkend see how it is
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Post by kru251 on Mar 8, 2015 8:20:17 GMT
For a similar set-up on a chaps PX125 that had been upgraded I drained his semi synthetic and replaced his oil with fully synthetic. Did the pre-mix bit as well until the autolube was flowing correctly and then left it at the autolube doing its job and fully synthetic taking care of its business. Result? The guy I know would have forgotten to do a proper 2/3% pre-mix just once or twice and that'd be that. This way the engine is still doing really well so although more expensive I like fully synth in tuned scoots. Not as expensive as all the time labour and parts when it goes wrong otherwise!!!!
As to the autolube, as Nik said back in the thread it supplies 2% but is PROPORTIONAL to the throttle opening. Ever taken one apart? The cam wheel lifts as the throttle is opened to allow greater oil flow at larger settings and less oil at small throttle openings. Nice bit of machining work there. I was impressed with all the design (but not the numpty thicko who had built the engine before I got the scoot with a non autolube under carb gasket with no oil hole that blocked all oil from getting to the carb)!!!!!!
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Post by kidda on Mar 19, 2015 19:23:38 GMT
My god I've had a nightmare!!!same again did about 4-5 miles it just died on me! Had 2 push her 2me folks house mess with it, replaced cdi unit then wud'nt start,airlock in fuel pipe,changed the atomiser from a be4 to be5,got it going and got me home,what atomiser would you run with a 105 main jet with a malossi 166 kit or should I upjet bigger,it felt rough running after it died again,I'm running full premix now aswell
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Post by pxguru on Mar 19, 2015 19:39:32 GMT
Unlucky That main jet is way too small!! I would think more like 116 at least. Start at 125 and ride it. If it wont rev step down one jet at a time until it does rev out. Put the orignal atomiser back! Mess with that later if it needs it. How does the compression feel now? Do you think there is any damage?
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Post by fredperrybruce on Mar 19, 2015 19:59:13 GMT
If your right in what your saying?? it's deffo the wrong size jet 105 No! no! no! Pxguru is right in saying should be using round the 116 mark in main jet
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Post by rab on Mar 19, 2015 20:39:34 GMT
take out the 105 drop it down a drain so your never tempted by it again i used a 116 on the mollosi with a be4 atom. your set up is slightley different so try as others are saying start higher and work down jet size. ride it on each jet give it some stick park it up check the plug colour. change main jet untill the plug is a nice light brown .anyone know were the biscuit chart thread is i cant find the bugger.some will say do a plug chop i wont ill say do it one way or the other personal choice. i will say run it on a b8 plug mollosi are hot running kits
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Post by kidda on Mar 19, 2015 21:04:01 GMT
It dunna feel 2 bad be honest,think its a fuel issue just the case of trial and error I think to get to the root cause,I'll up the jet size and replace fuel lines again,bloody nightmare!!
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Post by rab on Mar 19, 2015 21:10:36 GMT
ill say its fuel on a 105 and lack of 2 its running off air
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Post by kidda on Mar 19, 2015 21:23:10 GMT
I'll give it a go,I've got a 115 jet I'll throw that in see how it runs
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Post by sbwnik on Mar 19, 2015 22:46:36 GMT
From personal experience I found the autolube was not feeding enough 2 to my mallosi so had to start adding 2 to my fuel as in a thread I started last year on this asking about it the replys from that thread led me to the very same advice I just gave I believe you took part in that thread aswell nik . The does it feed enough 2 for a kit was talked about and I'm not 100 per cent sure but wasent it you that said the auto lube either works or it doesn't and it only ever feeds at 2% ? So a kit would need a bit of 2 mixing in the fuel for an upgraded head Autolubes run at a varying percentages depending on demand. At low revs they supply less, at high they supply more. Too much oil is as bad as too much air. All established truisms. The only time an autolube will fail is if it's not serviced. Mine's dead at the moment as it dried and seized after a main seal failure allowed enough petrol through to clean it. Other than that, given the millions upon millions of them on the road, they've proven to be incredibly reliable, much more so than clutches and stator plates. My old full bore 177 Polini ran on autolube for years, over tens of thousands of miles, without any problems whatsoever, and many other riders of bigger machines have found the same. If there's a problem, then you need to find the cause of the problem, not try to mask it.
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Post by kidda on Mar 19, 2015 23:33:52 GMT
I've gone to full premix at a touch over 2% because of running it in,was a strange one I got to just about the same distance then just cut out again(same route aswell about 4-5 mile)this time it would start back up but try and get going I'd only get a few yards then it would die again,had to push it to me folks house and mess with it,looked like a fuel leak on the banjo joint so sorted that but made no difference it cut out again after a few yards(cdi not red hot just Luke warm),fetched a new cdi (swapped over/spark at plug) also swapped atom to a be5,wouldn't start,checked fuel again looked like an airlock in fuel pipe,sorted that and got it running,Managed to get home it run but not 100% seemed a touch sluggish not the same as start of the journey,going check the length of the fuel pipe and swap the main jet to a 115 instead of a 105 see what happens also swap plugs from a b6 to a b8,proper x-file
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