tooty
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 13
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Post by tooty on Apr 12, 2006 12:43:04 GMT
Hello all, My name is Brian, known to most as Tooty. I currently own three scoots two PX and a PK all in bits over the winter Just in the process of putting my Mk1 back on the road after an argument with 100yds of tarmac I will post pics of the result of the rebuild as soon as she is all together Cheers Tooty
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tooty
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 13
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Post by tooty on Apr 20, 2006 15:30:13 GMT
mate forked out bout 5k for an SX200 last year and the guy he beat to the punch has offered him 7k, In his shoes I am not sure what my response would be on one hand it just perpetuates the problem on the other If the bloke is daft enough to spend that much would I take it and buy a less expensive scoot and use the remainder to bring it up to a higher standard?
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tooty
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 13
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Post by tooty on Apr 20, 2006 15:24:29 GMT
Just got a new helmet fer me birthday got a caberg justissimo flip front havent had the chance to wear it yet as cant keep the bloody scooter running long enough but would always go for a full face on anything other than in town. The gouges on the jaw piece on my helmet when I had my blow out convinced me of that.
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tooty
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 13
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Post by tooty on Apr 18, 2007 7:51:24 GMT
has anyone got a wiring diagram for a t5 engine in a sprint frame?
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tooty
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 13
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Post by tooty on Jun 7, 2006 7:44:06 GMT
Most british bikes, ie BSA Triumph Norton etc all have the back brake on the left side of the engine and the gearchange with the right foot - Japanese and european bikes - Honda, kawasaki, Ducati etc all have the opposite setup, as for scooters well the majority of geared vespa and lambretta are right foot & right hand brake and left hand clutch and gears irrespective of where they are located globally and to be honest its not a silly question I have heard and asked dafter ones than that.
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tooty
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 13
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Post by tooty on Jun 8, 2006 14:48:17 GMT
fear not it was just me being a tw@t Timing is fine now. I blindly accepted what the shop sold me and didnt bother checking, the main jet was too big and was pushing too much fuel through to the carb and flooding it when i opened her up. should have guessed when i was going though so much blimmin petrol.... I put a smaller jet in it and its running fine now now the only problem i have to overcome is the temptation to wap the throttle open on the bypass to work while i am still running her in..
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tooty
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 13
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Post by tooty on Jun 5, 2006 13:53:55 GMT
Have just rebuilt my Mk 1 150 engine but she ain't running to great, she is a dr180 with a 24/24 carb down jetted with a sito plus exhaust as per Beedspeed recommendations. I have a P200e stator plate on it with only one marking here is the start of my problems I have figured out where it should line up on a 125/150 but when she is running she is running slow 40-45 tops (bearing in mind i am running her in though) if i try to rev beyond that she doesn't really respond. I tried advancing the timing a bit but although the speed increased she still seems to be missing a beat a bit do i advance it more and risk holing my piston or do i retard it beyond my original setting. The electronic stator is replacing a points ignition so i have no reference point to go back to short of taking it to a dealer (nearest one is about 30 miles away) or finding out how to use a timing wheel and strobe gun can anyone help? are there any gurus out there ?
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tooty
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 13
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Post by tooty on Apr 25, 2006 11:28:43 GMT
had a P2 that used to jump out of gear all the time changed the little pin and spring arm mechanism on the selector cause they were worn and that seemed to fix the problem
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tooty
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 13
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Post by tooty on Apr 25, 2006 11:50:11 GMT
yeah cheers for that, on the subject of tweaking the original engine any pointers what kit, setup etc bearing in mind that I have just maxed out the old plastic in doing up my px or does anyone know of a cheap smallframe motor
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tooty
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 13
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Post by tooty on Apr 20, 2006 14:52:35 GMT
I have asked this question a few times on different forums but never quite seem to get the full answer. I have in my garage a pk 50 but I also have a spare px engine or two the frame has been modified in the past to accept a px motor, but I need to know what is needed to be done to the engine to make it fit. What I am after specifically is dimensions of how much needs to be shaved off each side of the swing arm and I believe that the rear shock mounting point needs to be altered on the frame. Can anyone help
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tooty
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 13
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Post by tooty on Apr 18, 2006 15:42:11 GMT
I am getting withdrawal symptoms now as I have just about finished a rebuild although I made the mistake of attempting my own paint job learned a lot of lessons during the rebuild , currently at the "WHY WONT YOU @*~~## START!!!!!!!" stage. soon be there though if the weather sorts itself out
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tooty
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 13
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Post by tooty on Apr 18, 2006 12:10:33 GMT
Ok this can be a real easy job or a real bitch aint no inbetweens, the choke cable should come as a complete inner/outer assembly. The cable tube you talk about is fixed to the frame there is a small clip that fits to this you need to rotate it and it should pull off this then allows the choke lever to be pulled out beyond the frame. the cable has a double right angle bend in it this fits through a hole in the end of the lever (its quite apparent what I mean when you get to this stage) seperate the lever and cable and the cable should pull freely from the tube..................... okay so it didnt and you seem to have left a bit of it still in there
now this is where its a bitch, get a small drill or dremel type tool and using a drill bit that fits neatly inside the tube carefully drill out the cable end fitting that has lodged itself inside, this should then allow you to insert the new cable refit the lever and securing clip and feed it back through the hole in the frame to the engine bay the rest you say is easy. If like me you cant get the little beggar out of the tube you need to feed the cable in as far as it will go and this is where the piece of plastic tubing that came supplied with the cable comes into play slide that over the end of the tube to help hold the cable in place however this reduces the amount that the inner will come out of the frame making the reconnecting of the lever that bit more awkward. It does work but try as best you can to get the little end cap out it will make things so much easier
the other difficulty I found was getting the looped end through the carb box but again a little bit of time and it fitted saves taking the inner cable out of the outer and then trying to feed it back through bearing in mind its got that double bend in it hope this helps
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