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Post by jellerby on Sept 19, 2017 18:58:55 GMT
Didn't help.. Sprayed around engine with some carb cleaner in places, (Cylinder head, exhaust) got to the carb and it sounded like the revs got lower and then it cut out. Think that could be it?
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Post by jellerby on Sept 18, 2017 17:47:25 GMT
Just rebuilding the carb again Mij, after cleaning and blowing out all the jets, will see if that helps
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Post by jellerby on Sept 17, 2017 20:21:07 GMT
Just cleaned the casings using some wipes to get a nice clean surface for the gasket and sealant. The cylinder was rebored with a new piston. I don't want it damaging if possible with the idle getting high without the choke on. I'm going to spray around some areas with WD40 tomorrow.
Runs fine with choke out but not with it in? How would screwing and unscrewing the idle screw out slowly help? I don't think you'd notice a difference would you?
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Post by jellerby on Sept 17, 2017 18:15:34 GMT
Hey Mij, it will stop after I've pulled the ht lead cap off the sparkplug but not with the ignition switch, I swapped some wires as I thought I put them on wrong but still the same situation. I put two base gaskets on the carb which I changed back to one, same problem. It will tick over and rev fine with the choke out, once it's in it will start to tick over higher.. vespamaintenance.com/fuel/carbtune/ - I used this to get the turns for the carb screws, may have gone to far with the idle screw, I don't know.
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Post by jellerby on Sept 17, 2017 14:27:49 GMT
Just started my engine after rebuilding it, choke and petrol on, let choke off after having it ticking over fine, switched ignition key off and it started revving really fast and high... Ignition switch maybe wired wrong? I used sealant on the exhaust and head and cylinder is torqued? I'm not sure what that could be?
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Post by jellerby on Sept 15, 2017 22:34:26 GMT
Managed to get the selector on tonight, torqued the nuts up to 11nm and stripped the thread on one of the studs... Back to square one again
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Post by jellerby on Sept 14, 2017 17:19:17 GMT
So 'batwing' just past 4th position, what about the rod? Any position for that? I guess the cables can be done afterwards?
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Post by jellerby on Sept 14, 2017 11:28:20 GMT
About to put the gear selector back on the P, any tips on putting it back on? I had a quick go with it yesterday with no luck. The gear cables aren't attached as of yet though, that wouldn't be a problem though would it? The selector is in neutral position and so is the handle.
cheers
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Post by jellerby on Sept 12, 2017 14:04:30 GMT
Cheers Henri, will give it a go. Cable is already removed at the engine end, couldn't get it far enough to see any wires last night. Ill remove the rubber and have a go
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Post by jellerby on Sept 12, 2017 8:47:01 GMT
How does the rear brake pedal come out? Do you have to remove the rubber? If so how? The pedal is seized so I can't push anything once it's dangling so I'll have to remove the whole thing. I'm just changing the inner cable as it's sticking but going to clean the whole thing and grease it up.
cheers
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Post by jellerby on Sept 10, 2017 16:51:21 GMT
Cheers for everyone for th input, clutch is all in now. I've put the cover on and there's a small gap at the bottom right near the Xmas tree bolt, is that how it should be or it the cover warped? Everywhere is sealed.
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Post by jellerby on Sept 8, 2017 17:17:51 GMT
It slides through the clutch fine, not tight at all.. It sticks out of the slot quite abit though, that's the only key they sell at Beedspeed though?
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Post by jellerby on Sept 7, 2017 20:49:07 GMT
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Post by jellerby on Aug 27, 2017 14:21:45 GMT
There's more than mm gap between the shims and circlip, if I turn it upside down the gears move down with it? I think it needs a bigger shim?
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Post by jellerby on Aug 27, 2017 12:51:25 GMT
Recently put the cruciform is the axle and assembled all the gears, fit the thrust washer followed by the circlip there's a small gap between the circlip and thrust washer. There's also a lot of play in the gears, you can push them all up and down. Are the gears not arranged correctly or is this how it's supposed to be??
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Post by jellerby on Aug 5, 2017 20:47:42 GMT
Does the clutch have to be in the engine still on a P series? Opposite to the smallframe where the clutch is removed? What part of the engine is the 'dowel?
Cheers
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Post by jellerby on Aug 5, 2017 20:11:54 GMT
Just tried again, tapped all around the casings where they meet with a rubber mallet, heated up the flywheel bearing and still won't split! How much heat can you use on the casings? I don't want to damage the casings or crank if possible.
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Post by jellerby on Aug 3, 2017 19:11:36 GMT
Gently tapped the top above carb box with a rubber mallet and didn't shift, its stubborn
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Post by jellerby on Aug 3, 2017 18:49:10 GMT
Motovespa casings won't split, removed all the bolts and clutch and tapped with hammer and nothing. Is okay to use a bit of heat around the crank bearings too loosen the grip of them?
Any ideas?
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Post by jellerby on Jul 16, 2017 20:53:44 GMT
Also, he has said he's only been able to get 55mph out of it tops, I had put a SIP Road II exhaust back when I had it and got up to 70. He's put new clutch plates in, what would be the cause of decrease in speed? I'll know more on the condition of parts when I get round to splitting it.
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Post by jellerby on Jul 16, 2017 20:50:23 GMT
Hi everyone,
I have just taken a friends Vespa P200 in for an engine rebuild last week, after rebuilding my Smallframe engine a few times I have abit of confidence in rebuilding the 200. The scooter was in my possession last year and had the same problem.
The scooter won't start when it's warmed up.. Riding for half an hour or so, everything fine. Take a break from riding and come back to it and it won't start again after however many kicks but, will bump start easily. My thinking is the CDI unit is breaking down?
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Post by jellerby on Apr 16, 2017 18:08:35 GMT
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Post by jellerby on Apr 16, 2017 18:05:17 GMT
Take it easy, try not to go wide open on the throttle and don't hesitate too much eg don't sir a team the same speed for a long period of time. Change gears a lot and don't WOT on a hill climb. I think the usual mileage is around 500 miles before you can give it WOT for longer periods. I ran my first kitted scooter in this winter, 500 miles took it easy, didn't have any problems after that. Also worth checking the plug during the process of running it in, it should be a chocolate brown colour
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Post by jellerby on Apr 13, 2017 19:46:17 GMT
Well the Malossi Smallframe built by Chiselspeed has died after a couple of months. I'm going to be completely stripping the engine down and building one myself without any mechanical knowledge at all. I'm looking at this Pinasco kit - www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/racing+cylinder+pinasco+zuera_84112000Anybody used this one before? What are your thoughts on it? I think I'll be accompanying it with more Pinasco parts. Nothing but grief with the Smallframe built by Chiselspeed, I no longer want my scooter associated with them.
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Post by jellerby on Apr 11, 2017 19:01:39 GMT
Trying to take the rear wheel of the smallie, last nut is just spinning around on the hub bolt which holds the wheel on. Any ideas on how to get it off easily? Don't really want to drill it out if possible. I've tried holding the other side but the nut is just spinning.
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Post by jellerby on Apr 5, 2017 18:39:27 GMT
How do people go about stripping and cleaning there carb after it's been on a dyno? Remember the turns or do they have a dyno graph telling you the settings? I'm thinking of cleaning my carb out, hopefully solving my problem I have...
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Post by jellerby on Apr 4, 2017 18:47:56 GMT
Out for a ride yesterday and went through some steep hills on my smallie, changed down to third and fourth gear and it seemed to splutter and chug like it wasn't getting any fuel.. it was like that for awhile until I got into the town where it then cut out when I was coming to a stop, it eventually wouldn't start with the kickstart but was able to bump it off a couple of times.. It wouldn't respond though...
Topped up with fresh petrol and oil and still wouldn't start, changed the spark plug after pushing it home and it started. Attempted to start it today and it started, I had to keep revving it though and as soon as I let go of the throttle it would die.. Left the garage, stuck it in first gear and it wouldn't pull, the throttle was wide open too and it wouldn't respond? Any ideas?
I have changed the clutch plates recently and certain it's all put back correctly. I was out on a ride Sunday and it was great. No problems at all accept loosing some oil with I think is coming from the clutch housing as the cover isn't sealed correctly because of a bolt.
i have some ideas in mind, CDI? Slipped timing? Maybe a bad spark plug?
I checked it yesterday and was getting a spark. I'm confused...
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Post by jellerby on Apr 2, 2017 16:03:12 GMT
The clutch cover on my Smallframe has stripped threads and the bolts won't go all the way in and is now throwing oil out, anybody have any ideas on the size I need to tap all the threads?
thanks
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Post by jellerby on Mar 30, 2017 13:41:33 GMT
So I was rebuilding clutch, went to torque the clutch nut up to 30lb/ft and the gear shaft has now some thread missing after it snapped. Does replacing the shaft involve spiriting the casing? Ive now given up with the clutch rebuild so scoot is laying on the floor...
Dont seem to have much luck with scooters..
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Post by jellerby on Mar 27, 2017 18:03:35 GMT
Is there any tubeless rims for a Smallframe with a 10 inch conversion? I've been told there isn't any for the 10 inch conversion.
Wheel size - 3.50 - 10, would I be able to use for example PX rims and tyres?
I was coming home from work Earlier today and he said the rear wheel was wobbling, looked under and it's held on my two wheel nuts.. The other threads had snapped clean off??
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