al
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 50
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Post by al on May 18, 2016 4:56:11 GMT
Love mine and you don't need a battery to use it.Only tip would be to solder the connections.
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al
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Posts: 50
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Post by al on Jan 21, 2016 9:18:46 GMT
The local tyre fitter had just slight bother but they both went on quite easily only one was a bit of bother.All back together now and hopefully get to have a spin around the block this morning
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al
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Post by al on Jan 20, 2016 17:33:35 GMT
They come with Nordlock washers but not impressed with sip not informing people that you really need longer studs.Had the lovely job of nearly destroying a chromed rear hub today drilling out the studs.Just ground back as far as possible then drilled through using larger drill each time and meeting in the middle.
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al
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Posts: 50
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Post by al on Jan 20, 2016 17:27:28 GMT
Never been much of a cut down lover but this could very well sway me.Top paint job and unusal theme that to my knowledge has not been done before.Keep up the great work bud.
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al
1st Class Ticket
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Post by al on Jan 16, 2016 16:42:36 GMT
Only gone tubeless for the safety factor until I've tried fitting them.My think twice now.
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al
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Posts: 50
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Post by al on Jan 16, 2016 15:44:55 GMT
I've read a few threads on sip rims on here and can't believe that they don't have a warning on replacing the studs on the rear hubs for longer ones.I fitted mine today and using the Nord washers there are only 2 full turns until it tightens enough to try torquing the nuts up.The last one stripped the thread in the nut with not having enough meat on the bone.Even if they had torqued up I doubt I would of felt safe.Its not the first problem either,the first problem was the valve leaking due to bad finishing leaving burrs around the valve that the O ring could not seal against.At first look they look the dogs but not too sure now.Now to take the studs out and replace with stainless cap head bolts.
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al
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 50
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Post by al on Jan 7, 2016 14:48:04 GMT
The only problem I find with a CHT gauge is sometimes you spend more time looking at your temps than the blinking road.Especially if you think you are on the lean side.
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al
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 50
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Post by al on Jan 1, 2016 17:34:21 GMT
Give it some heat.I think it will straighten up my self.
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al
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 50
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Post by al on Dec 16, 2015 16:01:06 GMT
I fitted a SIP fast flow thinking that might be the problem but was not so.Plus the tap does not work the warning light for some reason.
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al
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 50
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Post by al on Dec 16, 2015 14:54:41 GMT
Don't half give you a twitchy arse riding on a lean looking plug don't it.My 200 runs a 150 jet and still looks lean.I gave up on riding at 60 for long periods.I now constantly scan my chat gauge for any thing over 125C.Keep up the updates I've enjoyed them bud.
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al
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 50
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Post by al on Oct 24, 2015 19:11:55 GMT
My 150 super does the same.I am gonna replace the shocker this winter to see if it improves.Not sure if it's knackered but is the original 44 year old so probably.
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al
1st Class Ticket
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Post by al on Sept 13, 2015 18:32:26 GMT
Cheers and thanks sgain
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al
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Posts: 50
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Post by al on Sept 12, 2015 22:57:30 GMT
What I can't get around is the seal can be removed by removing the spring clip without removing the castle nut.
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al
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Posts: 50
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Post by al on Sept 12, 2015 19:05:00 GMT
Cheers
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al
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 50
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Post by al on Sept 12, 2015 8:18:30 GMT
So if it carries it could I leave it in situ and just remove the spring clip then the seal.?
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al
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 50
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Post by al on Sept 11, 2015 18:33:05 GMT
Hi I've just found out that the rear brake is no longer effective so stripped the rear hub off to show the cause,the oil seals gone capput.Am I right in thinking I only have to remove the retaining clip and it comes out?It looks to me thatthe castled nut contains the seal and I don't have to remove.The scoots a 150 super 1971 on 8" wheels.Cheers.
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al
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 50
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Post by al on Aug 28, 2015 7:16:51 GMT
I've had a similar problem to that but turning the fuel tap off and leaving it to stop has solved it.Starts first time now.
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al
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 50
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Post by al on Aug 16, 2015 16:10:23 GMT
Not sure if it's standard as the lad who rebuilt the engine is no longer with us unfortunately.The only visible mod is a Simanini exhaust and been up jetting to get a nice looking plug.It goes well but anything over 60 its territory I feel nervous at.
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al
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 50
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Post by al on Aug 16, 2015 14:19:12 GMT
I fitted my SIP speedo around 2 months ago and love the features especially the clock(that does loose time)But comes in handy on runs out when I've promised the misses I will be home on time.I use the CHT rings as instructed and doing around 50 to 60 it gets up to around 130c sometimes about 135c and I tend to back off the throttle.For the life of me dare not WOT.Am I just chicken?P200 running a 140 jet and plug is a light chocolate brown.
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al
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 50
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Post by al on Apr 23, 2015 20:09:40 GMT
All done and dusted and works a treat.Has Sim said grey wire in headset.Also the black box will fit i between the two bulb holders above the key.I first fitted it behind the horn casing but had a earthing problem so had to get the box in the speedo housing.Cheers guys.
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al
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 50
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Post by al on Apr 22, 2015 5:55:22 GMT
Cheers Sim will take your advice and have another butchers this afty after I finnish work.
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al
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Posts: 50
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Post by al on Apr 21, 2015 22:11:42 GMT
Got the tip from the SIP tutorial it said you can connect both wires together if it's a non battery so went from there..It seems to all work but we will see when I button it all up.Wish me luck.
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al
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 50
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Post by al on Apr 21, 2015 19:33:57 GMT
Cheers guys nearly there just got to change the tank sender.I have tried a basin wrench but it is to bulky and can't grip the nut.In the end ive used the yellow wire to power the clock from the junction box behind the horn.Getting the wires through the frame was easy but to the headset a right pain.In the end I had to cut the connectors of and re solder them.But all seems fine up to now.I will let you know how I get on.Cheers Al.
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al
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 50
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Post by al on Apr 20, 2015 21:17:26 GMT
Reading the instructions there is no need to have a battery.Just conflicting threads on the Internet and instructions have not been translated that well.Cheers.
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al
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 50
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Post by al on Apr 20, 2015 19:20:24 GMT
Hi all I've been bought a sip digital speedo as a birthday gift and after reading the instructions then looking through the inter web I'm getting a bit confused.There is a step by step tutorial that is very handy but it's for a p200 with a battery and neutral light.It would be so much easier if it said connect what to what.I thought it would be a doddle but with there no fuses in the system I don't want to burn some thing out.Any help most appreciated.Cheers Al.
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al
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 50
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Post by al on Apr 8, 2015 16:25:53 GMT
My apologies for sticking it in the wrong thread.The bike was a friends who is no longer with us.He left us 13 years ago with the bike restored and engine rebuilt but not a lot of clues to the internal work done but some notes on his old Haynes manual and a couple of parts recipts.Next month my 150 super goes on the road and could have the same bother.It was last on the road 1996.But I know it had a full rebuild about 6 years ago but still not been ran in.I can't believe it started on a bit of 6 year old fuel left in the tank.Cheers.
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al
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Posts: 50
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Post by al on Apr 7, 2015 17:45:05 GMT
The clutch has a weird feel to it sometimes,a bit notchy at first I thought it was a fraying cable.It tends to happen in 2nd and 3rd gear the most and only when it's been up at speed for a while.
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al
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 50
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Post by al on Apr 7, 2015 17:40:51 GMT
Cheers Henri.Yep you are right it's like its been held fully in just for a second.It can be a bit hairy when your two up.Cheers.
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al
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Posts: 50
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Post by al on Apr 7, 2015 16:38:37 GMT
My vespa was stood for 13 years before I recomissoned it.Since getting it into the road one of its quirks has been a sudden feeling like the clutch has been depressed normaly when been given a bit of a blast.I was not sure if it was the cruciform but I don't have to put it back into gear.Its Deffo not just a slip it's as if it's had the clutch fully pulled in..Its just all of a sudden and sometimes a bit dangerous.Cheers Al.
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al
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 50
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Post by al on Mar 24, 2015 11:22:32 GMT
To protect things from getting dented I put my tools in an old sock.(Theres a joke there somewhere)
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