wink
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 33
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Post by wink on May 3, 2018 18:08:54 GMT
Well done Gummybody for persevering with solving the problem (hopefully it’s all sorted now) and as always well done to Henri, your posts of advice and help on the forum are invaluable, i’ve Used them to solve countless problems. Thanks mate....
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wink
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 33
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Post by wink on Feb 10, 2018 15:55:42 GMT
Would I have to match it to a different primary and if so what would I use? I’ve got an old 68t primary would that be any good?
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wink
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 33
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Post by wink on Feb 10, 2018 8:27:03 GMT
Thanks H, Thought it would be someth8ng like this, the clutch is in very good shape, so I’m going to use most of the parts on my P200 engine rebuild (obviously replacing the attritional parts plates, etc.). Is there any upgrade potential in using the t5 cog, can I use a T5/P125 4th gear and if so what do I need to replace and what are the benefits? Thanks again Chris
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wink
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 33
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Post by wink on Feb 10, 2018 7:59:08 GMT
i have found a 21 tooth gear cog on a standard p200 7 spring clutch, in a box of spares I have. Before I replace this for a 23 tooth cog, does anyone know why it has been fitted?
i’m guessing it was for T5 4th gear upgrade, but if someone could confirm it would be appreciated. Cheers W
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wink
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 33
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Post by wink on Jun 27, 2015 16:57:26 GMT
Hi all, I've got petrol leaking from the cap on my recently rebuilt PX EFL. The tank and cap were recently repainted (it's the old efl type) so I'm guessing it's either a blocked breather( where is it), knackerred rubber, or the paint on the edge of the tank lip. Before I go through a painful process of elimination, has anyone else had similar problems. Thanks Chris
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wink
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 33
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Post by wink on Jun 10, 2015 19:12:12 GMT
Scooterworks in Bermondsey are ok as well.
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wink
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 33
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Post by wink on Jun 10, 2015 17:38:43 GMT
By way of an update, I checked and adjusted both the gear and clutch cables and it still revved/kicked out of gear. Now as I say, I doubted if it was the cruciform as it had recently been changed and was running fine before putting it in my latest resto. The only other possibility was the recently changed selector box, so I took this off and replaced with a spare and the engine is now running sweet. Rather annoyed as the plating on the selector box was by "Quality Chrome" and looks the nuts. Is this a common problem with chromed selectors or is it just that the chromed spring just needs loosening or greasing it up( I'm happy to change it for a non chromed one) Any thoughts? Cheers Chris
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wink
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 33
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Post by wink on May 31, 2015 6:45:07 GMT
Pm sent
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wink
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 33
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Post by wink on May 30, 2015 10:12:46 GMT
Hi Vespaasco, why does this not happen to me, I've been after a new mk1 for bit, if your interested in selling the frame etc and keeping the engine please let me know .
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wink
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 33
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Post by wink on May 30, 2015 8:11:31 GMT
Hi all, thanks for all the help, I ' m pretty sure it's not the cruciform and just the cables . I will adjust both the clutch and gear cables first, wack some more grease around the selector and see how it goes. Failing that it's have a look at the cruciform. Cheers Chris
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wink
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 33
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Post by wink on May 28, 2015 20:33:55 GMT
Hi all, I'm having some problems with my P200. The engine has been fully rebuilt about 400 miles ago and was running OK. I recently put in a new gear selector and new cables (including clutch cable). The scooter now runs fine apart from, in either 3rd or 4th gear, it will kick out(rev out) at various stages through the gear. It's been a while since a cruciform has gone on me, but I seem to remember it would pull out at the top end of the gear.
Before I pull out the engine and strip down and replace with another new cruciform, could this issue be related to the selector or new cables, the clutch cable does seem very tight at the lever.
Thanks Chris
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wink
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 33
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Post by wink on Apr 8, 2015 9:05:15 GMT
Hi again, thanks for the advice, seems reasonably straight forward. Do you know the best place to buy the mount/rubber (I'm guessing sip or beedspeed). Thanks again Chris.
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wink
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 33
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Post by wink on Apr 7, 2015 18:45:28 GMT
Hi, can anyone advise how to fit a rear shock rubber mount to a vespa px casing. I have a stripped casing and the old mount is shot so needs replacing. Are they also readily available? Thanks in advance Chris
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wink
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 33
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Post by wink on Aug 17, 2014 10:34:20 GMT
Hi there, apologies for the delay in responding but I have been flat out at work.
At this stage, rather than a full blown period restoration I was looking at pretty much leaving it as is and just sticking a P200 engine into it and upgrading the forks to 10 inch (i'll retain the original engine and forks, loom etc, thus giving me the option of putting it back to original spec later, if I wanted to).
I've got a recently rebuilt P200 engine to go into it, so realistically what I'm looking at is a new set of 10inch forks to match the engine wheel size and a new loom etc. I suppose what ideally need some advice on, is:
Are there any major issues in doing this conversion ie modification to steering lock, frame etc.
What forks will fit without any major changes/modifications to the frame, I'm guessing PK, most old large frame models and the advantages/disadvantages of each type. I'm not too worried if they are the older type or the new PK,it's more about their performance and ease of fitting etc. Also if anyone knows where I can get a set of the forks, it would really helpful. Is there anyone on the forum who would sell me a set (hopefully not at EBay silly prices).
I've restored many PX's and Lambrettas over the years, but this is the first older large frame vespa I have attempted, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks again in advance Chris
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wink
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 33
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Post by wink on Aug 8, 2014 13:30:39 GMT
Hi all, I am planning the above, can anyone advise on what options are available and the simplest most effective way to do it. Thanks in advance Chris
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wink
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 33
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Post by wink on Jun 27, 2014 5:40:27 GMT
Hi all,
Well I adjusted the outer cable and the speedo is still not working, I can actually hear/feel the inner moving in the outer cable so I can only assume that the actual speedo is buggered (it was old and untested).
Looks like I'll have to try and get hold of another working mk1 speedo, to test it against. If anyone has got one for sale or that I could borrow then please pm me
Thanks again for the help,
Chris
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wink
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 33
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Post by wink on Jun 25, 2014 8:39:51 GMT
Hi all, I've just fitted a new speedo cable to my PX mk one and I have replaced all the various components.
When fitted from top down (headset first down to hub), I can turn the cable manually at the bottom of the cable and the speedo works fine, but as soon as I fit the cable into the hub the speedo stops working. Conversely, when fitted from bottom up, the cable turns freely at the headset end, but as soon as I connect it to the actual speedo it doesn't work.
This is driving me around the bend so any help would be very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance
chris
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wink
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 33
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Post by wink on Jun 2, 2014 8:13:38 GMT
Thanks for the help all sorted now, a bit of trial an error got me there in the end. The only thing i'm missing now is the bulb holder unit that goes at the bottom of the green warning light on the top of the headset (i've got one but need a second). If anyone has a spare one kicking around I'd gladly take it off your hands !!!! Thanks Chris
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wink
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 33
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Post by wink on May 27, 2014 12:44:25 GMT
Hi All,
I'm just finishing off the restoration of the above and I now need to wire up the headset (with ignition key in the top) to the main loom. I have the three section of wires coming from the switches down to the lower loom and the horn, but can anyone tell me what the correct sequence is for the wiring up into the headset,along with the additional wiring segment (yellow & black wires).
Also can someone advise of the correct routing for the cables and loom coming from the headset to the main frame. ie gear, clutch and throttle cables and their correct placing against the wiring.
Thanks in advance Chris
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