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Post by mushroom on Jun 22, 2017 12:10:49 GMT
Both ones I've had just fall apart or work ok off the scoot but when wired and all screwed up just stay on I don't mind paying extra for quality Look like this
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Post by bryno on Jun 22, 2017 14:59:28 GMT
Sorry I can't recall where I got mine from but I did try a few before I found a decent quality.
Re staying on, are you sure you have the right switch? There are 2 types, one makes the circuit when you push switch, the other breaks the circuit.
Easy enough to check which you need.
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Post by mijapxman on Jun 22, 2017 15:02:00 GMT
Mushroom, I see Allstyles scooters have some, sorry don't know how good they are, tho mate. All the best. Jim☺ Just asked a mate and he said he used a brake switch from All styles on his Rally and the were fine.
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Post by mushroom on Jun 22, 2017 15:08:26 GMT
When you press the brake pedal it releases the switch and the button pops out making the circuit. Take you foot off the pedal and it pushes the button in on the switch
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Post by henri on Jun 23, 2017 8:49:02 GMT
i think the rally dc version can be used on 12 volt conversions ,but not 100% sure ,will check for you . one other option is a generic brit bike one ,fastened to a bracket on centre stand bolt,will take a picture of mine on a vna chassis . or there are brake light switches for older models that didnt have them fitted ,it hangs from a bracket from bottom shock mount with a spring to brake arm . www.allstyles-scooters.com/acatalog/vespa_brake_light_switch-p2.html . an the allstyles page also has the rally dc switch with a "*ac 12volt conversions" nxt to it,worth ringing them an asking ray or gary . H
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Post by henri on Jun 23, 2017 11:06:43 GMT
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Post by mushroom on Jun 23, 2017 12:01:59 GMT
Cheers H Stupid Beedy's loom had two green and whites and one blue going to the switch which bunched it up in the terminals I've pulled that back out and run singles down to the switch to make it less bulky in there I'll try allstyles later
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Post by mushroom on Jun 23, 2017 17:39:48 GMT
Tried allstyles, they got confused when I started talking about normally open and normally closed switches
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Post by bryno on Jun 25, 2017 8:01:43 GMT
Which one do you need? I have a spare which breaks the circuit when you push the pedal..
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Post by mushroom on Jun 25, 2017 12:41:26 GMT
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Post by henri on Jun 25, 2017 14:14:44 GMT
that should be the one mushroom , ive had stuff off joei/leeds lammys before an its been alright . H
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Post by mushroom on Jun 25, 2017 19:17:55 GMT
Cheers H 1 step closer to kicking it over on 12V
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Post by mushroom on Jun 28, 2017 15:45:32 GMT
Brake light switch sorted, now I have another problem Back brake cable outer just pulled through the hole In fact it broke through the little ferrule on the end of the outer and prolapsed itself up the cable through the hole in the tunnel Most pics I've seen of old vepsas have a short length of conduit carrying the cable through the tunnel Mine does not Do I just stick a new cable in and hope for the best ? Surely I should have the little conduit like these ?
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Post by bryno on Jun 29, 2017 11:04:05 GMT
There are 2 set ups for this, early VBA had a super short outer cable and the 'stopper' for the outer cable is right at the back of the frame just inside where the cable enters the frame below the engine swing arm. In this set up the outer is only about a foot long, and only the inner cable then runs through the frame.
All later models have the stopper in the end of that little tube you no longer have.
Without the stopper your brake is not going to work, it will just pull the whole cable through when you apply the brake.
What has happened to the small tube?
Really you need that welding back in, or you could with a bit of ingenuity and a cable ferrule convert to the VBA style, but bear in mind this needs to be 100% secure or your brake is going to fail when you need it most..
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Post by mushroom on Jun 29, 2017 11:16:06 GMT
Small tube was never on there, this is a '62 Douglas Sportique I was wondering if I could fit a tophat on the end of the ferrule where it comes through the tunnel by the pedal Just so it has a bit more resistance on the outer?
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Post by bryno on Jun 29, 2017 15:19:11 GMT
It would have had the small tube originally for sure, they all did.
Don't see how you will get access to fit a top hat at the pedal end as it needs to go inside the frame but you may be able to at the other end of the frame, that was what I was trying to explain in my earlier post.
The VBA (early Italian version of the sportique) had an outer cable that only ran as far as the hole in the frame where the cable goes through just in front of the engine, from there there was a reducer to stop the outer cable pulling through and just the inner cable then ran up to the pedal.
So you may be able to get a top hat to work there to do the same and just cut the outer cable down to suit.
But as said, this needs to be 100% secure and totally unbreakable.
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Post by mijapxman on Jun 29, 2017 15:34:02 GMT
If your not bothered about originality, what about a ,'L' shaped bracket welded to the frame one side and a back brake adjuster on the other?
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Post by mushroom on Jun 29, 2017 15:48:30 GMT
Cheers bryno, the tube wasn't on there when I got it. It's a bit of a head scratcher Jim, I'm not sure what you mean about the adjuster
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Post by mushroom on Jun 30, 2017 12:15:50 GMT
Tried this today, brake adjuster fed through the inside of the tunnel and secured by an extra nut. I'll see how that holds up
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