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Post by swm on May 17, 2017 11:05:24 GMT
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Post by phattanglo on May 17, 2017 12:55:49 GMT
To be honest a bit of tube and a jam jar is all you need.
Brake systems don't come any simpler than the Vespa.
In fact at a pinch I've just used a tube long enough to reach back up to the brake reservoir and pumped the air out while tapping the calliper and pipe to dislodge air bubbles.
If your calliper and pistons are in decent nick that should get your brake about as good as it's capable.
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Post by pxguru on May 17, 2017 15:06:38 GMT
The one man bleed kit makes it really easy. The hardest part is keeping the master cylinder full.
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Post by mijapxman on May 17, 2017 16:13:19 GMT
I sometimes use the one man bleed unit, but find occasionally air is still left in the system, in this case
I use a syringe full of fluid, connected to a pipe ( pipe,same dimension as bleed unit pipe ),onto the bottom bleed nipple,with the brake lever at the handle bars pulled in, I use a cable tie, to keep the lever pulled in, forcing the fluid in from the bottom also pushes the air/ fluid up to the master cylinder, be gentle pressing the full syringe,as it's very easy to splash the brake fluid over your paintwork, I leave the master cylinder lid on loose, for this reason I always have some water and a wet cloth handy, to wipe up any brake fluid splashes on paintwork!
Plz be very careful not to get water in the master cylinder fluid as it's already been pointed out, it's hygroscopic ( absorbs water ) , which will make the brakes spongy!
Ride safe.
Jim☺.
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Post by swm on Jun 30, 2017 14:17:49 GMT
Tried bleeding front brake today . Followed tips on here and my Haynes. Ended up worse than when I started !
No matter how I tried still could'nt get all the air out to get a good brake. In the end I've topped It up and cable tied the lever back, which I'll leave overnight. I've read this should work as the air will rise out slowly , hopefully !
If no joy , what am I doing wrong ?
Cheers.
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Post by ironsloth on Jun 30, 2017 16:55:51 GMT
Mmmmm, fill to the top, crack off bleed nipple, cover with rag, whistle the national anthem, by the time you remember the second verse, refill, tighten up, flick the kettle on.
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Post by mushroom on Jun 30, 2017 18:36:23 GMT
I always had to reverse bleed with a syringe on the bleed nipple on the wife's superdream, her KZ400 and my old GS1000 I can never get it to work the normal way  |
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Post by RWS74 on Jun 30, 2017 21:18:17 GMT
Hi SWM, sometimes narrow stainless lines can take a while to bleed if filled from empty.
Like Ironsloth say's sometimes you need to leave it a while...
On my Triumph I had this and found that filling the reservoir & leaving the reservoir cap off (but covered loosely with a plastic bag to stop dust and crap getting in)then pulling in the brake lever & securing with a bungee or cable tie to to the handle for a few hours the air would rise and then I could bleed brakes. I used to use aftermarket bleed nipples containing a one way valve which was effective. Not sure if available for our calipers.
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Post by pxguru on Jul 1, 2017 3:15:56 GMT
It does take a lot longer than you think it should by the normal way, as it is just a tiny master cylinder. A few things that help are; keep the reservoir full, after every few pumps you will need to top it up. Use a bleed pipe with a non return valve and the nipple can stay open. Pump the lever very slowly. Give yourself a good hour and don't spill any on the paintwork!
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Post by swm on Jul 1, 2017 14:21:44 GMT
Just to report back . The cable tie trick worked ! Checked this afternoon and after approx 24 hrs stood , cut the tie replaced the res lid and bugg*r me I have a firm lever ! Went for test ride and all is well , thankfully !
Cheers.
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Post by zoltan007 on Jul 28, 2017 9:30:00 GMT
Everywhere I look on t'internet suggests that the system should be bled/refilled from the top down. But occasionally I see the suggestion to bleed/refill from the bleeder valve up into the reservoir, and that doing so minimises air in the system. That sounds reasonable so why is the top down method much more commonly advised?
I need to fit a new caliper today and the reservoir and line is completely empty of fluid. I'm going to try the bottom up method of refilling. Any tips for an utter newbie are most welcome.
Should I fill the system before mounting the caliper on the fork or should I mount it first?
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Post by RWS74 on Jul 28, 2017 15:01:28 GMT
Hi Zoltan, it's best to let gravity do its thing mate as even thought it can be done from bottom up there is a risk of damaging the internals of the reservoir apparently.
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Post by RWS74 on Jul 28, 2017 15:02:56 GMT
I'd mount it first, fill it and be patient as it can take a while due to the narrow bore I think. Once air is out it's a swift proceedure.
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Post by RWS74 on Jul 28, 2017 15:04:35 GMT
If you have some time follow my tip above in the post mate. Saves the Agro of Tourette's and wasted time 😉
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Post by zoltan007 on Jul 28, 2017 15:06:57 GMT
Cheers RWS74 - I've had a go from top down, thank you.
I think it's ok, as in, when I depress the lever the brakes are applied, and when I let go, the lever returns and the brake pads disengage. So that seems like a decent starting point. The lever travels a fair bit further than before - still air in the system maybe? I'll take it for a cautious spin later, once the effin rain has eased off.
Cheers
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Post by RWS74 on Jul 28, 2017 19:32:22 GMT
Cheers RWS74 - I've had a go from top down, thank you. I think it's ok, as in, when I depress the lever the brakes are applied, and when I let go, the lever returns and the brake pads disengage. So that seems like a decent starting point. The lever travels a fair bit further than before - still air in the system maybe? I'll take it for a cautious spin later, once the effin rain has eased off. Cheers Most welcome, still worth removing reservoir cap, filling & and covering with a plastic bag and cable tying brake leaver over night.... then tomorrow a quick bleed & carry on. 😉 |
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