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Post by pxguru on Apr 24, 2017 7:54:55 GMT
The point was added for discussion. I was just thinking that even if your gauge is reading 20C high and you just had a dark plug on a near WOT chop at 152C, is still not quite correct. Options are that the gauge is more out that we think, the rich lower throttle jetting is confusing the plug colour or there is too much mixture being burnt for the cooling to cope with and it really is getting that hot. That plug colour would normally say about 130C, the question is does it feel and smell hot when it shows 172C? There were no detonation marks on your old piston, so timing is in the zone but a few degrees might make all the differance to the temperature. Really close to airing the tent out
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Post by sime66 on Apr 24, 2017 11:56:15 GMT
I do appreciate the point, and the intention of your post: I’ve given it a lot of thought over the last year. I think the best reply for me to give here, without allowing this to become a big issue if it isn’t one, but not ignoring it if it is, both of which I’m trying to avoid, is to look at your three suggested possibilities: 1) The gauge is more out than we think – I believe this is most likely to be the case. I note it reads correct at ambient (cold engine), and I have a hunch that the degree of error is increasing; my estimate having gone from 20-30-40°C+; possibly a combination of an exponential curve and maybe that the gauge is breaking down more over time. It would do me a favour if it went obviously wild, if it hasn’t already, so I’d know for sure. Other than that, the option is to replace it, but that bugs me to have to do. Bear in mind, I haven’t even had it round to feeling WOT stop on the grip yet for the indicated 172°C, let alone held it at WOT for any period for anything like a chop; I’ll do Progression chops as part of the next job, but WOT chops won’t be until I’m sure I’m run in and safe-side of optimum (and gawd knows what CHT that might show, so I’ll have to be certain before proceeding). 2) Rich lower throttle jetting is confusing the plug colour – if I proceed carefully as planned with my next steps, and go on to setting up 48/160 mix/idle, warm starting, rev/idle/rev and Progression chops, this will establish the correct lower throttle jetting as no longer being too rich, so that should satisfy that possibility. The other thing I could/should do is to do a 170°C plug chop, or at least a high-temp 3rd gear chop: I’m still inclined to do the Pilot first though – perhaps this should be the next step after that. There’s a few things I can do with that suggestion; thanks for that. 3) There is too much mixture being burnt for the cooling to cope with, and it really is getting too hot – this one needs looking at in more detail too, so I’ll break it down to things I’ve considered, both before your previous post, and since – I might add more as I think of them: a) I had considered that it had always been too hot from the start, and I know that my barrel and head skim reduced the air gap there, but the first post-build setting-up went very well relative to performance and temps (I did some pretty detailed studies of temps/revs and 3rd-4th gear changes when we were doing the final tweaking). I think we were pretty satisfied that the cooling was coping before, though certainly better with the fan-speed of the 3rd gear revs, and nothing has changed; I even put the 0.2mm spacer back in to get compression ratio and squish back to how it was, so that I could still say that. I think with sensible jetting, the cooling was coping with the power. b) I had thought, and previously suggested on the forum, that the old worn rings might be reducing lubrication up the barrel, and causing heat from increased friction, to explain the post-seize temp increase, but that notion was dismissed at the time, and the new rings haven’t sorted it anyway. c) Performance, too, is as I would expect it to be when I’m still on the rich-side of my notional optimum jetting. Since the last down-jet last week, I can feel a hint of the power I had before, but it isn’t there yet – the feel tells me I should jet leaner as/when I’ve got the miles in it again. It isn’t going mad racing; it feels mild but strong, with the low-end sorted it would be quite nice to ride already, which pretty much makes sense with a 140MJ now, when I'm expecting to end up 138MJ after BE and AC is tweaked leaner too. I never had 172°C before – the highest I had pre-seize was 160°C and a very scary plug! (It was already faulty when I seized; reading about 125°C at the time from memory, which is why I was pressing on in 4th after a long high-rev 3rd). When I’m riding now, I do find myself easing-off to get the indicated temp sensible again, which I don’t want to have to do – even if plug inspection is still telling me there isn’t a problem, when I’m riding I see the gauge telling me, and it’s hard to ignore. d) I will make a point of having a good sniff next time I get back from a brisk run (which will show 170ish anyway), if it is still there (which I think it isn’t), I’ll pin it down and sort it, or identify it as coming from barrel and consider it a sign of a definite problem that needs sorting. Points to note: · The indicated high temps started after the seize, so there’s all factors associated with what changed before and after that, but also; · The indicated high temps started when I changed the sensor ring/thermistor/cable, after the seize, because the low readings it gave at the time of the seize led me to conclude it was already faulty then. · Without those indicated high temps now, everything else is as I would hope it to be at this stage of running-in. I think the best way to proceed is to continue with the Pilot and get the miles in at the same time, keeping an eye on the plug far more than the gauge. Doing so will safely rule-out some of the possibilities above, and will allow me to progress without getting distracted with what I think is most probably not an issue. The high-temp 3rd gear, not WOT, plug chop seems sensible after that too – even before I’m run-in and jetted closer. If I manage to find more, or indisputable, evidence that there is a problem, I guess I’ll go to my timing as first solution; I do not mind losing a bit of performance, if necessary, to get this under control and the scoot worry-free reliable; that is my aim – to stop messing about and get it worry-free reliable for riding, even at the cost of economy/performance for now, not this endless tweaking. It’s time to just enjoy the fruits of my labour now – think I’ll need an airbed for the tent after bending my old back over engines for so long. ..........Just to follow up my yesterday’s post by returning to the plug itself; CHT temps aside, my rich plug now really does compare well with where I was at with jetting, towards optimum, (before the adventurous seize jetting), here in March 2016: vespa.proboards.com/thread/5222/brief-build-update?page=18Same 6°C ambient, same roads, and my 8200rpm in 3rd yesterday, which is 88kph, compares to the 90kph I stated then too. Given this last year was a little leaner in MJ, BE and AC, but both with same carb mods, vortex and filter, the plug compares well with what I’m getting now:
It was when we pushed the 90 to 100kph in 3rd, and the jetting tweaks needed to get the revs there, that it started going from risky to wrong. Still safe then, still safe now…….?
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Post by pxguru on Apr 25, 2017 6:25:24 GMT
The way it used to run so much cooler does point to the CHT gauge being garbage. You do need to be sure though. As it leans out further it will read even hotter.
Next step is the progression and idle mixture; confirming hot starting is good. It's after that where I think you will need leaner than the AC160
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Post by sime66 on Apr 25, 2017 7:56:36 GMT
That’s a plan then. - More miles, and thoroughly setting-up Pilot, through to Progression chops. - Expecting to lean-out BE and AC to deal with slight low/mid stutter; like before and within my notional safety zone of previous safe jetting (by plug). - If that goes to plan, then on to confirming 140MJ after leaning mid-range, or probably carefully leaning that too – pre-WOT (hot) then WOT chops. - And better still; Jim is lending me his under-stud sensor and gauge – thanks Jim, so I can do a direct comparison to (hopefully) confirm my gauge is knackered; under stud should be approx 10°C lower (I’ll cross-check other sources), but I hope/expect it’ll show more like 40-50°C lower near WOT. - If gauge comparison actually confirms a problem with the engine, which I doubt, I’ll start with retarding the timing. (Ref re: ring position/temp – this is the thread I was talking about last night, Jim): vespa.proboards.com/thread/4503/cht-ringsI can do all these in the next few weekends, and hopefully post some good news ………. Note, mainly for me: (Record from March 2016, re-posted above was for comparing jetting against plug more than temps. There is a point in previous setting-up, as yet unidentified, when previous CHT started reading low; remember the problem getting Progression temp up (see it asterisked in March 2016 above), and the low CHT when I seized (I checked that; it showed 143°C immediately before and 152°C immediately after; I’d previously had 160°C without melting anything) – there is still cause for caution using old temps, which I’m not using as gospel. This is just a note to say I’m aware of it, and it’s something for me to investigate by reading back to pin-point when it started it if possible, not really something that can be chewed-over without the recorded facts – it’s all there, but it’s a lot of digging).
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Post by doulsy on Apr 27, 2017 20:12:43 GMT
i read this thread thinking i will learn something, all goes right over my head though
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Post by sime66 on May 7, 2017 6:45:19 GMT
Good news. I can confirm that my CHT is reading very high, ie. by about 45-50°C at high engine temps; after a brisk run to get a high reading on my gauge, I got 178°C on mine (on the plug) and 131°C on Jim’s (on a stud), even allowing for the different sensor location, that confirms what I’d expected. I’m making that statement first because it’s the number that matters, the rest below is for my record, but might cloud that fact. Jim’s CHT was set to °F; I could live with that. Jim’s CHT wasn’t set to display max for a run – Doh! I had to abort first run, refer to TrailTech instructions on how to change settings and reset to °C and AutoMax First run though, I was able to scribble the following before aborting – difficult to compare because Jim’s wasn’t recording max, but proof enough to continue:
….which shows mine goes wonky above about 100°C; where exactly doesn’t matter, the fact is when mine shows 180°C, it’s about 130°C. I’ll keep an eye on my plug and see what temp mine shows if I can get Jim’s up to 150°C, but I don’t want to go mad because I should really be putting some more miles on it first, which will be easier now I’m not worrying about temps. Thanks for the loan Jim, I’ll return it after another weekend after a hotter run.
I made a new CHT ring with a new thermistor, which shows correct at ambient, so I’ll try Jim’s CHT gauge on the scoot with that too:
I’d like to suss out if it’s my sensor or gauge that’s kaput, but my wiring is all tidied away inside the frame, under tank and headset, so no hurry there, and I’m not buying more TrailTech stuff; this is the second one that’s failed on me. I’ve got several different schemes for making and locating sensors if I can get them to read correctly with the TTO gauge I already have, having it right at ambient is start enough to encourage me to continue with that – NOT on plug has to be the way to go, especially if repaired sensor works correctly because it will prove gauge is still OK.
The main thing is it’s my sensor or gauge, not my engine, that’s been the cause of this troubling and time-consuming glitch in progress.
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Post by pxguru on May 7, 2017 9:35:46 GMT
That's good news Soon time to carefully up the power. I've been waiting a long time to see you change the AC. Did you cross over the gauges between stud and plug for another run to cross check? Pretty cool that you cam make a sensor that works!
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Post by mijapxman on May 7, 2017 10:02:09 GMT
Glad it's been of use. As I said before, not in a hurry for it's return, feel free to keep it till the end of June, mate.
Ride safe.
Jim☺
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Post by sime66 on May 7, 2017 11:05:47 GMT
That data shows it’s definitely time to downjet; I’ve got about 20-30°C up my sleeve for leaner jetting and longer, faster runs; and I think I’ll do the AC/BE before I do another temp run actually. I’m not going silly though until I’ve got more miles done. (Started thinking of power as margin available for temp rise). My Pilot is pretty close, though not thoroughly checked, mainly due to lack of time and recent concern/preoccupation with CHT; she started second kick after two-weeks standing, and second kick when warm. I went to 7,900rpm in 3rd (=90kph/56mph – calc from revs), so maybe instead of dropping MJ, I’ll do the BE3+(1or2) and AC170 first. This is just a short bit of film, through revs and gears a couple of times. Bear in mind: · It’s still jetted rich, but I recorded 7900rpm – that’s just what was recorded; I was concentrating on temp this time. · I changed into 4th deliberately early, not thrashed in 3rd, and uphill, because I wanted to get a high temp on my gauge for comparison with Jim’s gauge – I got 178°C/131°C; both of these short accelerations are slightly uphill. · I left the film running on a bit to see how high CHT would go after I’d eased off. 48/160, MJ140, BE3, AC160 - Ambient 9°C - 7,900rpm max in 3rd (Wonky CHT=178°C/good CHT on stud = 131°C)Same conditions and jetting, but holding 3rd to 7,900rpm
Using my gauge with other sensors is a bit more tricky and time-consuming; when I changed the ring I thought it would be a good idea to have the sensor plug protected inside the frame, so it is heat-shrunk and shrouded and inside and under the tank (I hadn't expected to need to get to it so soon); I had to trim-down the sensor plug to pass it through the hole in the frame – I don’t want to trim Jim’s sensor plug down, and I don’t want to waste time getting my tank out either, so for now I’m happy just to know (and get best approximation possible of by how much) it’s reading high. I’ll make the most of having two gauges by doing as much cross-checking as I can, and hopefully have a few home-made ones that work too, but for now I know the engine is OK, I really just want to get on with getting the carb set-up for Summer; I trust my plug, and the gauge is in the naughty corner really. I’ll have a look and see if I can pull the plug back through, but if not, I can come back to it later.
It has been very useful Jim; Thanks. There’ll be a few goodies in your envelope when I return it, so you can make some as well. I’ll reset it to how you had it too. I seem to be in a minority of one using °C, but this is 21st century, so I’m sticking with it myself – Gawd knows what Brexit dark-ages lie around the corner though.
Anyway, Giro D’Italia is on any minute…………………..(km, kph and prize money in € for me this afternoon).
[actually it's in Swiss francs (CHF), but you lot don't know that]
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Post by mijapxman on May 7, 2017 11:23:07 GMT
Sime66, feel free to trim my sensor plug down if it helps you, I have plenty heat shrink and can do the same too.
Jim☺
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Post by sime66 on May 7, 2017 11:35:01 GMT
I've ordered these: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381928350289?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT...so long-term, when my CHT sensor cottage industry is under way, I can make as many as needed, swap and plug them in whenever I need to (which will now be outside the frame). For now I want to look after the TrailTech plug (until I know the DIY stuff works). These should arrive in the next week or so, and I'll chuck a couple in your envelope - you can swap them on your sensor and gauge sometime too. As we're on the subject, does anybody know what that floppy 2-core wire with a nylon reinforcing thread is called, or where I can get it? I haven't yet found a strong, fine wire for the job.
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Post by mijapxman on May 7, 2017 13:36:44 GMT
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Post by mijapxman on May 7, 2017 13:43:27 GMT
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Post by pxguru on May 8, 2017 4:16:42 GMT
All going in the right direction again. Once you get it all jetted in you might want to think about getting that thin base packer back out. 8,000 rpm action on those fat piston rings is about the limit.
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Post by sime66 on May 8, 2017 5:48:49 GMT
I’ll keep it in mind to remove it, though doubt I’ll make a special job of removing the barrel just for the 0.2 gasket – I’ll be using the partial engine-drop to keep the studs in the casings method now. · I was on ModernVespa, and a chap said he’s used thin G.S. rings on a D.R. piston; what’s your opinion on that? · Whilst we’re on the subject of G.S. again; how much work on a G.S. piston is needed to match the windows on the D.R.? I’ve broached the subject of piston mods a couple of times, but not got anywhere with it. Avoiding the 8-9,000rpm rev-range in 3rd is going to highlight the sluggish 4th gear issue I was having again as well; hopefully that’s just jetting though. My more-sluggish 4th gets hotter too. I’ve noted what you say about my filter on your thread; I’ve never noticed it wet, but those RamAir filters do perish quickly there, and I ought to make a point of noticing where they tend to clog to get an idea of the prevailing airflow; it’s still close to where the airbox flex connects to the hole in the frame, so some air is from that hole. I expect there’s all sorts of turbulence with road, fan and frame-opening going on there; hard to be certain what air I’m using. Talking about fan, another bit of an overlap with your thread; how about removing these two strips off the flywheel cowl to draw in more cooling air volume?:
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Post by mijapxman on May 8, 2017 13:35:53 GMT
😇
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Post by mijapxman on May 8, 2017 13:58:16 GMT
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Post by sime66 on May 8, 2017 15:15:16 GMT
I think some people cut holes in their panels without really knowing what effect it might have, or even realising the distinction between combustion air and cooling air. I’m just thinking about opening the fan inlet to draw in more air through the fan and over the head; under the cylinder head-cowl, not the side-panel. I don’t want slots in my side-panels anyway, which, in my mind, might well cause a problem if they force more air into the carb (box) at speed and lean the mix, might even work against cooling airflow exiting the cowl, and might drive water into everything as well. As it happens, my old panels are developing their own holes (rust), but I have a spare set I bought off rab some months ago, which just need a bit of paint before I swap them over, and then I’ll try to save the old ones before they’re completely knackered. (Along with many other jobs, it’s on my to-do list, which grows longer no matter how much I chip away at it). I do agree the forward curved flywheel must be more efficient; we talked about that when vespasco butchered his flywheel on his Rally. I’ve never really got my head round taper sizes, keyway positions, and which flywheels fit which engines and cranks though. I introduced myself on MV because, having loitered a long while, I couldn’t hold back trying to help a new chap who was floundering and trying to sort his MOT, and having posted, thought I should do an intro as well; I don’t really want to have parallel conversations on both forums though; there’s enough random comments, and re-explaining old discussions needed on just one forum. For me, for now, MV is a reference point, rather than something I want to spend loads of time getting involved in. I’m mainly just trying to finish an engine setting-up, so I can enjoy it, not chat on more forums, especially this time of year; I wanna be out playing………..
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Post by pxguru on May 8, 2017 15:23:20 GMT
I think from last time that the 0.2mm gasket didn't reduce the rpm a great deal but it will help. The issue is those aux ehaust ports. They look like "who cares" but they do make all the difference with rpm. They do tend to coke up badly, so will block on their own if left long enough.
The two GS rings in one slot would be better than what you have but the ring gap would be in the same place so would perform more like a single ring. If you are buying the rings a piston kit isn't so much more.
Try to keep the revs down. If 4th gear gap does end up as a big issue you can easy change the clutch cog 20, 21 & 22 all fit.
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Post by mijapxman on May 8, 2017 16:19:26 GMT
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Post by sime66 on May 10, 2017 6:35:34 GMT
With new jetting: 48/160, MJ140, BE3+1, AC170 - Ambient 6°CI took her for a brisk (not thrashing, but pleasantly rapid) run this morning, with two CHT rings on the plug for direct comparison; hoping that the second ring would be 40°C-odd lower to confirm two things: 1) That home made CHT works, 2) That my Gauge is reading high. However results were not as hoped/expected: · My existing ring and gauge set up = 172°C · My homemade/repaired ring and Jim’s gauge = 185°C – sod it; I was hoping that would be 130-140°C. I don’t believe this means that my true CHT is over 170°C because the results I got with Jim’s gauge and ring on stud on the weekend were exactly as expected, ie. it confirmed my gauge is reading about 45°C high at max temp. It does mean that my homemade one seems to have the same problem though. (I’m aware it’s a bit of a coincidence/concern that they both read the same high temp). That isn’t conclusive, but needs a little thought because wasn’t as I’d hoped. I think my next step is to make a stud sensor and do a direct comparison with Jim’s sensor/gauge on a stud, but that time-consuming getting to my wiring (That’s SouthEast – bottom right – stud for sensor looking at cylinder, BTW). I’m not going to get too bogged down with CHT now though; she feels really good and lively with the first BE/AC mods, and, given the CHT issue, and the new 8,000rpm safety laws, after a bit of plug chopping to make sure she’s safe, I might leave it there, and maybe just go a bit leaner if/when it really hots up in proper Summer. I want to do some decent hills with my BE/AC mods more than playing with CHT now though. I’ll probably put a plug photo in here, and get some data from my film, some time later on. She’s smooth through all revs and idling and starting nicely; nothing about the ride is bothering me (even with plug slightly shallow with two CHT rings fitted, which I'd thought might make it play up). Edit: for the record; this is the plug - 48/160, MJ140, BE3+1, AC170 - Ambient 6°C, 7600rpm, indicated 172°C:
The important fact from last weekend was that my CHT ring/gauge were reading high by about 45-50°C at max temps; that hasn’t changed.
I’m also not getting bogged down with vent/scoops, but I read everything I could find on it last night; I think sidepanel vents cloud the issue (with the possible exception of any directly over the flywheel area), and in my case might adversely affect combustion air carb intake anyway. I think fan-driven cooling air should be treated as separate from sidepanel air. I think there may be some benefit from a scoop over the exposed portion of the flywheel cover (though the space for it reduces with engine movement relative to frame; especially with my fat arse and tent on it, so air is coming from rest of fan opening under the panel as well; I haven’t ignored that fact), and maybe opening the bottom of the cylinder head cowl to let warm air out quicker; knowing how it works and the route it takes helps understanding of it better than reading lots of differing opinions on forums, but the three main sources, in ascending order of usefulness (in my opinion) are as follows:
modernvespa.com/forum/topic103900 (how a well-intentioned thread can get bogged-down)
www.vespalabs.org/projects/ram-air-cooling and www.vespalabs.org/lab-notebook/shelved-till-later/highwayman-air-scoop (shame they didn’t take it further)
www.scootercentral.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=11101 (shame the photos are lost)
I made a little cardboard mock-up of the sort of thing that I think might help, but I’m not inclined to spend time experimenting, and I’m not sure it would make a great deal of difference, but I’d rather have a quiet read, a think and a fiddle, than get involved in wandering debates on forums that go off in all directions and end up just wasting time with people arguing their opinion (see the above links for where sensible contribution and debate breaks down, and just fills threads up with nonsense). Here’s my little mock-up; that’s probably as far as I’ll go with it though; it was just something I was pondering that I thought I’d share, not something to spend the Summer on (I’d still take some of the strips out of the flywheel cover, and maybe use them to fix/support the scoop):
(photshopped, not fitted, so I can't say, but those threads above suggest it will improve high-speed cooling on a tuned motor).
A couple of afterthoughts on this before leaving it: It might be that the mudflap affects the flywheel intake; though, reading the threads above, it might even be for the better if it reduces the vacuum problem at speed – too many unknowns to be sure. It might be that the scoop obstructs air being drawn up under the sidepanel into the fan, so maybe it’s just a bad idea, or maybe it needs a slot along its top edge to allow air up and under panel – again, too many unknowns to be sure. With unlimited, patience, time and resources, I’m sure something useful could be done here, but I’m pretty much out of all three on the subject now.
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Post by mijapxman on May 10, 2017 12:49:40 GMT
😇
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Post by pxguru on May 10, 2017 12:58:46 GMT
Scoop looks quite cool but I think it would hit the panel. Two big guys going to a rally can get the gear selector to hit the panel. Not sure the suction side is the issue though. I think the curved fin fan and a better ducted head cowl will help more. I have a straight fin PK 125 flywheel on my 221, so I am in the same boat there.
Did you try Jim's one on the plug ring yet? See how high that reads? If it is confirmed that the temperature really is that high, although it runs fine it it still not ok. When there is no other answer, retarding the timing will help. If you really cant get the temperature down to a steady 150C then I would try timing next. Looks like the jetting is still slightly rich so there is still hotter to go!
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Post by sime66 on May 11, 2017 5:43:52 GMT
I think I’ll forget about scoop and vents; maybe have a look at opening bottom of cowl to let hot air out quicker sometime though. I have no reliable 14mm rings and I don’t think it’s wise to get too distracted by temps from the experimental home made sensors – I still think last weekend’s test with my old and suspected dodgy ring against a probable (now proven) good one is the most useful result, and gives me a good idea of by how much that old 14mm ring is reading high, (I’m surprised home made ones worked at all; any tiny difference in resistance could be caused by many variables, and can’t be measured with a normal multimeter). I don’t believe I’m hot, but don’t completely reject the possibility, and will retard timing if it looks likely to need it. She's plenty good enough for me to use if I keep an eye on everything. Anyway; I’ll continue tweaking jetting carefully and at my leisure, (aware it will make it hotter, but not believing indicated temps), and update if/when there’s anything significant worth sharing.....
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Post by pxguru on May 12, 2017 4:11:06 GMT
I am remembering she is at 19 degrees? You could retard 2 degrees until jetting in is complete, then try advancing again later. See how the temperature is affected? It will lose some mid power but it has so much you might not notice
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Post by sime66 on May 12, 2017 5:46:46 GMT
Thanks, pxguru, and well-remembered too; 19° was the intention, and it strobed a little past, so I could probably go 1.5° to 18°; I’ll definitely keep that in mind. I’ve also got the 0.2mm spacer up my sleeve too. Both compromising power for temp when we’re not even sure temp is a problem; maybe there’s an engine-tweak session there later on. But I really want to get it to the best jetting I had before though, and compare it like-for-like with the pre-seize engine, before making any engine changes. It’s so close to that point now, and the plug tells me I’m plenty safe enough to carry on as intended, which is more miles and a little more gentle downjetting. We know my indicated CHT is high (incidentally I’ve noticed that indicated CHT drops as quickly as it rises on my gauge, it doesn’t smell or behave hot at indicated 180°C either, and the plug is still rich, all of which reinforces my belief that the engine just isn’t as hot as indicated), so I just don’t want to get distracted by it any longer. I’ll have to buy a new gauge whether I like it or not (not with a plug sensor though), just so I have a reliable warning. I’ve made and fitted a stud sensor, which again reads correct at ambient, so I’ll give that a spin with both fitted, and if it’s OK I’ll splice that into my CHT gauge (got to get the tank out; I tried pulling the plug back through without success), but two weekends on gauges is enough now, and after that I’m returning the gauge and going back to my plan, confident that my gauge is high, my plug is good, and I’m safe to continue. If I’m worried, I’ll do the timing, but I’m more aware of the big distraction and cost to time and progress the CHT issue has caused, than genuinely believing there’s a real problem. I think the best thing I can do now is just have a couple of weeks riding it knowing its safe, get some miles done, and be sure for myself what she’s really like around the hills and lanes. I don't even particularly feel the urge, or want to waste the Summer, getting or keeping her jetted so close to optimum this time, she already feels strong and lively again. I'll update if anything changes.
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Post by mijapxman on Sept 14, 2017 14:31:38 GMT
modernvespa.com/forum/topic155727For anyone interested in keeping up date with Simon's and px guru=Jack221's tuning project the links above. 👆 Be aware,It can be a bit heavy going and the jetting saga may put you off tuning for life😉, apart from that lots of info, if you can stick with it.👌
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pecker
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 65
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Post by pecker on Sept 14, 2017 17:17:30 GMT
Yes, I have also been keeping an eye on it. I was wondering what his transfer fee was Quite possibly it will remain undisclosed.... Pek
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Post by mijapxman on Sept 16, 2017 20:34:06 GMT
Pecker, free transfer I think😉, seems to have taken px guru=jack221 with him, hope it's only temporary for them both😉.
Mij ☺
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