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Post by bignico2411 on Oct 10, 2016 14:48:10 GMT
Ok, this is probably embarrassingly simple to sort, but it's doing my head in! Perceived wisdom is that there should be about 2mm of play in the clutch lever before it starts to engage the cable. On mine, there's nearer 10. I've turned the adjuster in and out, removed the trunion and pulled the cable taut, but every time I think I'm there, the slack reappears. Is there a foolproof method of getting a 'good' clutch without any specialist tools or a second pair of hands? I really don't want to have to take this to my local garage, but it is melting my head!! Cheers
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Post by phattanglo on Oct 10, 2016 17:11:16 GMT
You mentioned extra hands but to be honest a third hand cable clamp is really useful.
I leave the cable adjuster with a bit of leeway to slacken as well as tighten.
I then take the slack out of the clutch arm and tighten the cable nipple.
You should find the clutch lever is not far off.
You're looking for as tight as possible without the brass button riding the centre of the clutch as this could create clutch slip and may cause premature wear.
The consensus is that you need the clutch plates to separate loads but if you think about it the clutch plates only have to separate by a few mm to be fully disengaged. It's interesting that gear changes can be as smooth as silk when you hardly pull the clutch lever in at all.
Certainly you need a bit of room from neutral to 1st but once everything is spinning it's surprising how smooth the upchange is with just a tiny bit of plate seperation. It's a scary concept but if you are conscientious with matching your revs to the gear change it is really slick and much less clunky.
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Post by henri on Oct 10, 2016 18:42:00 GMT
a third hand tools nice , but ive always used needle nosed mole grips , works on all cables . push clutch lever forrad's against spring an nip up trunnion , clamp pliers so it cant slip an work lever a few times to bed in cable . then grip pliers in hand an use thumb to push lever an trunnion forrad til any slacks gone .nip up trunnion an move pliers up to be tight against it . work lever again an repeat ,by not trying to get it all in one go an just inching it a bit at a time its easiest to hit the "sweet spot" . H
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Post by bignico2411 on Oct 10, 2016 20:12:34 GMT
Gents, a combination of the two has me sorted. Backed off the adjuster more than I had done previously, loosened trunnion, used thumb to push lever forward, worked trunnion up to it and tighten off. About a half turn on the adjuster and I have a nice springy clutch. I don't know why I was finding this impossible yesterday evening, as I was obviously only a little bit out, but I'm sorted now so bugger it. Cheers!!
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Post by phattanglo on Oct 11, 2016 13:54:10 GMT
Never forget, scooter fettling is a dark art:-)
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Post by bignico2411 on Oct 11, 2016 15:11:22 GMT
Never forget, scooter fettling is a dark art:-) I might wear robes and burn incense next time!!  |
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Post by RWS74 on Oct 15, 2016 7:07:04 GMT
Wocha folks, when I bought my 2 year old PX125?with 288 miles on clock the free play was about an inch!
I needed to adjust it quick and couldn't get hold of a third hand tool which looks ideal so I used a bungee to pull the lever forward and secured other end to center stand, job done as it left me able to use both hands to adjust cable nipple.
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Post by bignico2411 on Oct 15, 2016 10:42:50 GMT
Wocha folks, when I bought my 2 year old PX125?with 288 miles on clock the free play was about an inch! I needed to adjust it quick and couldn't get hold of a third hand tool which looks ideal so I used a bungee to pull the lever forward and secured other end to center stand, job done as it left me able to use both hands to adjust cable nipple. Nice improvisation! |
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